Tascam M-___ Story...

  • Thread starter Thread starter sweetbeats
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The emblem has two plastic posts on it for push-nuts. I'm pretty sure my local hardware store has what I need for that.

Yeah the insert is less glossy. I think I could improve on that but honestly I kind of like the look of the matte finish. In the meantime i'm likely to keep my eyes open for something else material-wise laying around here.

:)

Laminate : as in Wilson Art or Formica Brand. Different glosses available. Any old cabinet shop ought to have scraps. Take it to a jeweler, pay em $10 bucks and have it engraved. (or someone that does desk top employee name emblems. Then fill the engraved area with white paint. Will look factory for sure. Acutally the desk emblem material would have a white core anyhow.
 
Cool! :)

Well, maybe after you've got it officially mounted in place, I can twist your arm to try a few more shots of the board with the Nikon camera and the more natural, normal "glowey" room lighting!...please! :D

Cheers! :)

Oy!

Yeah, you know I was thinking that too. Problem is my mind may be willing but the amount of work to get other gear clear of console and potentially moving the mixer table to get some good angles...well...its all back-breaking work. I'll have to analyze whether or not I can catch a decent angle with a minum of disturbance to the console's current position or to the surrounding gear.
 
Laminate : as in Wilson Art or Formica Brand. Different glosses available. Any old cabinet shop ought to have scraps. Take it to a jeweler, pay em $10 bucks and have it engraved. (or someone that does desk top employee name emblems. Then fill the engraved area with white paint. Will look factory for sure. Acutally the desk emblem material would have a white core anyhow.

Hm! Great ideas on the laminate! Thanks Danny...i've had good fortune at my local mom & pop flooring and countertop shop as far as getting some materials I needed for my project motorcycle...maybe they can help me again with some gloss black rems. ;)
 
Oy!

Yeah, you know I was thinking that too. Problem is my mind may be willing but the amount of work to get other gear clear of console and potentially moving the mixer table to get some good angles...well...its all back-breaking work. I'll have to analyze whether or not I can catch a decent angle with a minum of disturbance to the console's current position or to the surrounding gear.

Understood on the issues of having to rearrange gear and back pain issues. But, perhaps with everything in place, as is, where is, there still might be a few available vantage points available without moving anything.

Cheers! :)
 
My 7 year old setting up input levels for me on the Tascam M-__:

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Rawkin' on the bass:

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Awesome pictures. It is great to see kids introduced to this stuff at such a young age. Hats off to you Cory !!
 
Thanks, guys. :)

I'm trying...I tell ya there is NOTHING in life that has the potential to shape/change/teach you more than being a parent as far as I'm concerned.

I'm just glad they are taking an interest and that I've become at least wise enough to be doing a better job at prioritizing the space for THEM. I've got a ways to go, but I set it up so that they can go in independently, turn the system on and then practice their creations and expand their catalog. Next will be getting it advanced to be able to easily record and reproduce (using the digital rack) and once that's all working then introduce an analog mastering deck and then the analog multitrack machine to the process. But the priority is creating/maintaining a clean and organized space that is welcoming and functional for them in which to play around, and then from there develop the capturing process, and then "improve" the capturing process with analog tools. And all along the way I hope to teach them so that, ideally, THEY can be able to at least capture and reproduce rudimentary multitrack projects on their own. That will take time and experience, but it will be fun along the way.

Got the "TASCAM" emblem mounted to the meter bridge!

It looks good. I'll get some pictures up soon, and, Jeff, I think I may be able to get some good material by dismounting that left monitor speaker and moving the digital mixer/interface that is just to the right of the Tascam mixer. Those tasks are pretty quick and easy. Maybe sometime this week I'll get to that.

I've also done some touch-up painting at the leading-edge of the top surface of the frame sides...so just above the wrist rest trim strip and just inboard of the walnut side panels on each side. That grey paint got scuffed up pretty bad when moving it at one point. Ghost has done a nice job of "repainting" that in his beautiful touched images, but I figured I could save him a little work LOL! The paint is an acrylic oil-based enamel...takes forever to dry...I'm going to give it a few more days. The touched-up spots are glossier than the earlier painted surfaces so once its good and cured then I'll carefully take some super-fine steel wool to those spots to blend the gloss. Once that's done, then the Tascam M-__ project is officially DONE and anything else going forward will simply be working out the bugs that come up due to its disuse/mistreatment over the years, or its protypical nature. Otherwise my only planned work is to eventually recap input modules 3~12 for which I already have all the caps, and to repair one more bent pot shaft...AUX 1/2 LEVEL on channel #8 I think. You can't see it until you turn it but its undeniable when you do. But otherwise..."done". :D
 
Just some quick and dirty shots of the TASCAM emblem mounted:

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Missed this back when you posted it!

Looks really good and reminds me of the phrase, Life imitates art! :)

Hope you and your kids enjoy the mixer that you worked so hard on to restore to an even better condition then what its designers envisioned! ;)

Cheers! :)
 
That turned out amazing! Love the walnut, beautiful. What a cool find, and project. Thanks for sharing your restoration projects, super inspiring!
 
Thanks for the kudos! :)

So I'm getting back to deep cleaning the input modules and finishing the recap job.

Earlier in this "story" I did a rundown of what's been really deep cleaned and recapped and all that remains that hasn't been are 10 of the input modules.

For me deep cleaning of these modules involves taking them apart, separating the 6 PCBs that make up a module, dusting and/or wiping down anything needing something more vigorous (like if there is rodent pee on stuff...yeah I'm still finding some of that here and there), cleaning the pots and switches with the appropriate DeoxIT product, lubricating any stiff pots, and inspecting for any needed repairs.

I got module #12 done tonight and got started on #11. It takes quite awhile to disassemble deep clean, repair and recap one of these modules...hours.

#12 took longer because it's more hinky than the rest as I believe it was more of a prototype module...it's the one with all the hand-written notation on the module chassis and I'm assuming that's because it was mocked up before the dress panels were fabbed:

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LOTS of funky jumpers and modified traces on this module, and a couple ICs that were socketed presumably for testing different opamps:

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And I'm finally doing something about the "sea of putty-colored knob caps" issue. So, right...the color caps on the input modules were all putty-colored except for the BUSS MASTER knob at the top of the module. I changed the MONITOR level pot to be green...but literally my eyes get lost looking for a control without SOME other distinction...orange is typically used by Tascam products of this era to signify level. So I'm trading the input level trim and AUX send level knobs to orange. It will help to visually delineate the two rows of each module, like greenbar tractor-feed printer paper...how many of you know what THAT is?? The original sea-of-putty-colored version is on the left, orange-adorned on the right.

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Anyway, the other thing I'm doing is trading the lower knob of the stacked pots for the M-50/M-500 type which is MUCH easier to tell where the dang thing is pointing. In this photo I've got the M-500 version in the background and the original M-__ version in the foreground. Really, the ones original to the M-__ are a PITA to see where the control is set.

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It's been a hard decision whether to leave the M-__ as original as possible, or to address some of these operational issues and make it more user-friendly. Obviously I made a decision. I look at it this way: it's a prototype...Tascam probably used all putty-colored caps because it was a prototype. Had it been manufactured and sold to the open market it woulda had colors...and obviously when Tascam introduced the M-50 it had the pointy-type lower knobs on the stacked pots...so I guess I'm turning the M-__ more into what I think it would have been like had it actually been an available model.
 
Looks good!...

Were the original pushbuttons colored, or did you change those out too?

Do you think this thing never went into production because it was probably a bit too complex & complicated for the average user?

I take it your upgrades are things you pulled off the M512?

:spank::eek:;)
 
Thanks, mdainsd! ;)

@ ARP:

The original push-button caps were indeed colored, but the coloring scheme wasn't consistent with other production models. I'll have to see if I can find a pic...I know I put one up eons ago showing a side-by-side comparison of the original scheme compared to the new one...hmmmm...

AH! Here we go...the modified scheme is on the module to the left, and the original to the right. The differences are subtle, but logical...and I made a couple other small changes since then but this is close:

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And as to your question about why it never went into production I have had suspicions, based on Teac's relatively astute market targeting and innovative product development during this era, this thing wasn't necessarily ever intended to go to market, or at least it was slim. Maybe it started out that way, as a viable production model concept...aesthetically it's like a mini MCI JH-600 console...it's like a project that had no-holds-barred but was identified at some point, maybe early on or later on that the market-base wasn't there at least to Teac's standards...and who knows...it's development may have been going on in Tandem with the M-50. At any rate it's clear many products were derived from the M-__, or at least have links to it, and there are design features for which you can also clearly tell the precedents from which they came:

• the M-50/M-500 product line cosmetics
• the true MONITOR buss that skipped over the above product lines but made into the M-300 mixers
• the PE-40 eq
• the backplane and motherboard design are straight from the Model 15 console
• there are cascade connections ala M-35/M-35EX

At any rate, yes, whether it was known early on or decided later I think the feature-set narrowed the market scope too much in terms of cost and what consumers really needed and could use.

But it definitely has an element of "let's see what we can do." I'm reminded of this with this current recapping initiative and the quality of the components on the boards...the film caps are all a more pricey variety than other production models, and there are polystyrene caps used in strategic places...and Teac went relatively big on the values of electrolytic caps. A lot of times I see 47uF for coupling in circuits like this from Teac, but they used 100uF all over the place...that is by *far* the most predominant value in the signal path on the M-__. Teac, really, did a nice job in general of selecting cap values in their period products in my opinion...good value for the money in terms of what's inside whereas I've found other maker's products might show a little more corner-cutting. The M-__ just present a notch past what was the norm for Teac.

And, yes...I'm robbing from the M-512... :o

It's going to look like a mini M-__, and will be priced to reflect it's non-original-ness if I sell it.
 
Embarked on the next wave tonight, which would be deep-cleaning and recapping modules 9 and 10...BUT...there was some remedial work to do first.

I've never been comfortable with how one of the capacitors is fitting in the chassis...it's crammed in there and pushing right against the side of the metal chassis framework. I don't like it. So I did the equivalent of blistering the hood of your favorite muscle car in order to make the air cleaner sittin atop your new performance carb/intake manifold fit when the hood is closed...just a little tweak...see it?

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And here you can see it with the boards in place.

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Why not just get a shorter cap? I could probably find one...I mean the stock cap was shorter, but that's a pretty critical cap. It's the input coupling cap for the mic amp, and I wanted to use a good quality part there...so I blistered the hood. Anyway, had to go back and do modules 1 and 2 which was fine because there were some other things I wanted to do to those as well.

Modules 1 and 2 were the first two I recapped and also socketed all the opamp sites for most of the audio path, at least those that would be part of tracking and mixing. I put in mostly OPA2134 amps but I used some racy amps in a couple-three places. I don't like how the modules sound compared to stock. I have a hunch it's the racy amps not being supported by the right components. You can't just buy the fastest bestest chip and stuff it in where you had a 4558 and expect magic, and to do it right there's analysis to be done. Yes you can get away with putting something like an 072 in place of a 4558...that's a good and conservative "upgrade", or even 072 with 2134 for instance...but the performance of an opamp is dependent on the quality and values of the components upstream and downstream and especially within it's feedback loops etc. I was not so savvy to any of that when I did the work on those modules. And the result? They sound harsh in a way compared to stock. And I betcha with some relatively advanced analysis the problems could be found and values tweaked blahblahblah...not worth it. I like how stock sounds. So what I did is put the 2134s in place of the 3 locations with the "racy" amps. Not "stock" but I do still want to compare this more conservative upgrade with stock. And I also realized I'd used a non-ideal value for the caps I used to bypass the power rails at the upgraded opamps. Oy. My advice? Find something you like and leave it stock. There are simple things you can do to improve the noise floor and such...maybe those are worth it. But wholesale opamp "upgrades"? Nah. Each on their own.

Anyway, here are the new bypass caps (the little orange dots) and below that pic a shot of the flip-side of that board showing the socketed ICs supported by those bypass caps:

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So with the chassis tweaked to fit the mic amp coupling cap, several opamps "downgraded", opamp bypass caps replaced, and upgraded knobs and color caps ala modules 11 and 12 in place, modules 1 and 2 are back together and ready for action again.

I also noticed another problem...remember how I said module 12 must have been the guinea pig module as it's fraught with all sorts of hinky jumpers and cut traces on the boards etc? Well I noticed there's a ceramic cap missing from the eq board on that module...see here...finger pointing to part on a "normal" eq board, thumb pointing to where it should be on the eq board from module #12:

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So I'm going to have to order one of those caps...hair splitting? Maybe...but that's in the feedback loop for the lo eq gain control...I'm betting it's important. They put it on all the other modules. Do it right do it once.

Another hair-splitting thing was bugging me. On the backplane there is a switch for the nominal level of the PGM BUSS OUT jack, either -10dBv or +4dBu. Well modules 1~11 have the same switch...the switch on #12 is taller. It's in the back. Nobody is going to look at it much less be able to SEE back there. I couldn't let it go. Swapped out the switch for one the same as the rest of the modules. Humor me.

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So with all that remedial work done (except for that feedback cap for the eq board on module 12), I disassembled #10, got it deep cleaned and got the caps all prepped for both modules 9 and 10. Maybe tomorrow those two will be done.

I still wonder what the intent was for all the empty component locations on the BUSS PCB. See? Look at all the unfilled component locations:

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I'm still thinking it is maybe a balance amp for the group associated with the module...that would make sense because there was room for more large jacks on the backplane...

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Fun mysteries.

Anyway, that's all for now. More maybe tomorrow.
 
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Brilliant!

I think you're right about the "missing" components.

OCD can sometimes be a good thing!

:spank::eek:;)
 
....

That board is really amazing!

I'm not sure if I'd find it a little overwhelming, tho.

The colored caps make a huge difference!

Nice job!

:spank::eek:;)
 
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