...had to go for radial nichicon for the larger caps due to limited stock in UK. Should be fun putting those in!
So sometimes you have to do that. If you have any Teflon tubing or even vinyl tubing or heat shrink to put over any longer exposed tails of the radial cap you should do that.
...Your ground mods were awesome and would love to do star grounding for each channel one day when I have time.
Thank for the compliments, but the credit goes to a couple smart guys that were more than helping me. I learned a lot. There really were three main components to the ground mods...localizing all the grounding to each of the channel cards and jack PCBs, eliminating all the ground loops on the channel cards, and completely revising the grounding between the power supply and the frame. Oh and I guess there would be a fourth component, positively bonding all sections of the frame to each other and the PSU chassis to that...it’s kind of a mess from the factory but that wasn’t necessarily uncommon.
Do you think that mounting the recs underneath even without the heatsink mod would be beneficial?
No. It’s not about putting them in cooler air; placing them lower in the chassis. That’s completely inconsequential. It’s about allowing heat to escape. If you put them under the PCB it’s like adding a layer of insulation over them. And the heat transmission via a heat sink is orders of magnitude more effective than radiating heat into the air space. The bridges really really really need to be bonded to a heat sink.
I guess it makes sense that cooler air would be underneath. It gets sos hot, just like my Topaz Internal PSU did...
Heat kills. Period.
Going to put in some bypass 2200pf ceramic Kemet caps..
That’s too small. Typically one would use something like 0.01uF for HF filtering.
Unfortunately the Soundtracs logo still won't light up after replacing all 4 fuses with new ones, real shame : (
You’re not literally using fuses there right? Those are light bulbs...fuse style incandescent lamps. I don’t recall if the lamp circuit there is powered by AC or DC, but if it is DC then you have to mind the polarity of the lamps. So verify you’ve got the right type of lamps, that they are all good, and then look in your service manual to verify the lamp power rail type (AC or DC) and if DC make sure you’ve got the lamps oriented correctly as far as polarity.