Tascam M-___ Story...

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The badge on a 244 Portastudio is also the same layout, only it says 244 in the black space.

Something to consider, there are engravers still around these days, so it might be possible to make you own badge by getting a hunk of orange plastic and laminating a thin piece of brushed aluminum to the top of it and then find a local engraver who can cut in the TASCAM letters, which is just a simple Microsoft Sans sheriff bold font with tight letter spacing. The black section in indented down into the orange layer and if you really want to get authentic, there's also some diagonal ribbing in the orange plastic to the left of the black part.

Here's a pic of that from my old 244, which I no longer have...

IMG_0515.jpg


If you right click and save the image to your computer, it will be in full resolution.

Cheers! :)
 
That's an idea alright...are they the same size though (244 vs M30 for instance), and do ALL the badges of that style have the ribbing in the orange section?

Got things hooked up.

I tell ya, the DOWNSIDE to having a relatively feature-laden mixer that you haven't used much, is that your eyes get muddled in all the controls...with the double rows of controls on each strip it is actually difficult to discern between channels when I am focusing in the middle of the control panel. I know time will sort this out, but for a 12 x 8 console this thing is a sea of beige colored knob caps.

My first assignment is to simply get some wet headphone mixes setup for my girls so they can practice their singing. I'm using my Tascam RS-20B for reverb and a Behringer HA4700 for headphone amplification. I've got their mics coming into channels 7 and 8, sending those to the stereo buss and using aux 1/2 (which is configured as a stereo aux buss) to feed the RS-20B. Then the reverb is coming back via channels 9 and 10. Couldn't get anything back. No activity showing on the RS-20B...i figured I didn't have something set right on the mixer...i used the switcheable metering to confirm that there was indeed audio getting to the aux out jacks, and double confirmed using the solo function on those outputs. So I moved on to cabling. Turns out that I had one channel bad on the snake TO the patchbay, and one channel bad on the snake coming back FROM the patchbay which ultimately killed both channels. I couldn't see any activity on the RS-20B on the one channel getting TO it just because the level was really low. I realized I was feeding -10dBv signal to a 0dBu input on the RS-20B. Switched the aux outs from -10dBv to +4dBu, rolled back the trims, re-patched the cabling and all is good.

The mixes through the girl's headphones sound kind of harsh and thin. I never expect much from the Behringer headphone amp. It gets the job done and was cheap. It'll work and the girls likely won't notice, but I was pleasantly surprised when I switched to monitoring off the console. Now, mind you, I've never been impressed with the headphone amps on any of the Tascam gear I've owned. Not bad, but not great and typically noisy. It sounds like a different mix...the reverb us lush, the soundstage is relatively huge compared to the mix off the Behringer box...quiet...it made me say "wow!". Enjoyable to listen to.

So i'm really disappointed in those HOSA snakes with the bad channels. Its not the brand per se because I got these used years ago and am just getting around to needing them now. I know I tested them when I got them and all channels were good, but there must have been impending failure lurking under the insulation. Not looking forward to it, but i'm going to build up some snakes. This mixer needs something more than the prefab stuff. I have all the 1/4" connectors for the patchbay/outboard gear, and i'm pretty sure I have all the Gepco snake cable I'll need...just need a bunch of good RCA connectors...i don't like soldering up RCA's. Unless you spend a mint the strain relief is always lacking, and they're more cramped come soldering time. Well I found some great connectors at Parts Express that'll cost under $1.50 each, have chuck-type strain relief and are all metal and have gold-plated contacts. Perfect.
 
That's an idea alright...are they the same size though (244 vs M30 for instance), and do ALL the badges of that style have the ribbing in the orange section?
I've looked at several pictures of the M-30 and the 244 and both seem to have the same size ratio compared to the VU meters they are placed beside. So, I'd give that a 99% probability that they are the same size.

About the the lower left corner ribbing; that's a tougher call as there's no acceptably clear and detailed images on the web of the M-30 badge. But on the clearest one I could find, there is visual indications that it is ribbed too. Plus, it would make sense from a production point of view that both badges came from the same mold with just the model number insert being the variance.

Cheers! :)
 
Just a couple pics I snapped while starting the hookup:

IMG_3963_2_1.JPG


IMG_3964_3_1.JPG
 
OMG, seriously?...

No MH-40?

Then,... why couldn't you scavenge a 388 or something else for some colored knob caps? BTW, I think Tascam still sells colored caps, TBD.

Awesome job and great pictures!

:spank::eek:;)
 
Nah...no MH-40. Probably would be good, but no room in the rack, and I actually need some of the functionality of the Behringer unit.

The 388 knob caps are different than the M-__ which are the same as the M-500, PE-40, MH-40, etc. Last I checked yes you COULD get knobs with the color caps for the M-300 series, 388, etc. But obviously that doesn't help...can't get the older ones and haven't been able to since i've been involved with Tascam analog gear. And I'll get used to it (the sea of beige).
 
I half way started to repaint the beige knob caps when I was processing one of your images but then gave up when I realized it would take all day to do it. I did get one channel done just to see how it would look but then neglected to save the changes...sorry. :(

Might do it again if there's any interest in seeing what that looks like.

Cheers! :)
 
Ahhh...nah...don't tempt me. To be honest one reason I didn't pursue changing them (except for customizing the colors in the master section and changing the monitor send knobs to green) is because it is one of the characteristics of this prototype mixer...all them beige knobs.
 
Gotcha on the colored knob deal.

Getting back to the name badge question you had if the M-30 and 244 badges were the same size;

For fun and out of curiosity, I looked up the measurements of the chassis widths of both those models and discovered that the M-30 is 18, 1/4" wide and the 244 is listed as 17, 15/16th" wide. So with that information, I then took a head on, dead straight image of my steel tape measure and then copied that image over to a couple of pics I had on hand of both the M-30 and the 244 which were both straight and level images which showed the full width of each. I then superimposed the steel tape measure image over the base images and lined up the ruler shot to scale to the reported widths of both hardware pics. And then once I knew that the scale of the tape measure was accurate to the chassis widths, I then repositioned the tape measure image to measure the respective badges. And as I suspected a couple of posts back, they are indeed both the same size, each being two inches wide.

M-30badgemeasurement.jpg


244badgemeasurment.jpg



Also, the M-35 and M-50 mixers also use this same badge template.



Cheers! :)
 
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Heheh...that's funny...i did the same thing only imported pics of the 244 and the M-30 into MS Word and used the ruler in the application and a simple equivalency equation to reach the same result...and yes the M-35, M-35EX, and I'll add the M-16 to your list, use the same emblem plate. Looks like the model number badge and the emblem plate are actually separate parts so when I get ahold of one of these things i'm thinking I can just remove the black model badge and have the silver and orange emblem. I emailed Teac to see if they happen to have any of those emblem plates in stock for any of those models. My hunch is that they don't, but I'd be foolish not to check.

Is there seriously nobody that has a gutted 244 or M-30 (or other applicable model) from which an emblem could be harvested? I'd pay for it...
 
Welllllll....how 'bout that??

Heard back from Tascam and they have the "TASCAM" emblems as found on the 244, M-16, M-30, M-35, etc. in stock! $2.32...

My cup runeth over.
 
Excellent news! :)

So, which one did you order?

Maybe order two or three, in case you crack or chip one!

Cheers! :)
 
Actually that's the great part...the "emblem" and the specific model "badge" are two separate parts, so I'm just going to order the "emblem"...just the silver/orange "TASCAM" plate with the ribbed orange section below it, no black/silver model indicator which is the "badge" which is appropriate here as there is no model number for this mixer. If it ends up looking funky with no black "badge" I can easily add a piece of thin black plexiglass or similar.

And, yeah, at $2.32 apiece I will likely get two of them.
 
Good stuff!

Hey! Maybe put one on the PS-520 to match it up to the board! :)

Cheers! :)
 
Hm! Hadn't thought about that! I had originally wanted to leave that PS-520 as stock as possible in case I needed to convert it back to stock for whatever reason...that was back when the mixer and its viability was a huge question mark...hadn't thought about it since then. Maybe I WILL put the same badge on the PSU...i'll have to see if it covers up the PS-520 screening...
 
I don't think the badge would cover it over completely because of how the layout is on the wide side with the name to the left and the model number to the right of it. So realistically, you'd have to do a paint modification to make it work.

Just for fun, I did a mock up of what that might look like...



PS-mFace.jpg




Also added some voltage monitor LEDs to use up some of that empty space. :D

Cheers! :)
 
That looks awesome...more than I want to get into but I wish it was easy to get there because that looks great!

Got the emblems from Teac today.

When I pulled one out of the box I knew right away that I was going to have to fabricate some sort of blank for the black section that normally displays the model number as there is a recess for it...found some material to trim. Here's the emblem with my rough piece of black vinyl material:

IMG_3983_5_1.JPG



This is about where I'll mount it I think:

IMG_3986_6_1.JPG



Here it is after trimming the material and gluing it in...not totally sure I'm happy with it, but it'll do for now.

IMG_3987_7_1.JPG
 
Glad to see the name plates arrived safe and sound! :)

What is the mounting regime on the back of it to affix it to the mixer?

Glad you liked the mock up I did on the power supply! I know the work involved to do that in reality would be way more trouble then its worth but just wanted to see what that might look like. ;)

Your black insert material looks OK but perhaps a bit less glossy then the original material, or perhaps that was just a photographic artifact?

Also saw that you added some numbering to the top of the mixer channels! Are those stickers? Looks good!

Cheers! :)
 
The emblem has two plastic posts on it for push-nuts. I'm pretty sure my local hardware store has what I need for that.

Yeah the insert is less glossy. I think I could improve on that but honestly I kind of like the look of the matte finish. In the meantime i'm likely to keep my eyes open for something else material-wise laying around here.

And, yes, added some numbering to the lip at the bottom of the meter bridge there. Just used a label machine for those. I HAD to add some numbering because even though there are only 12 input modules, they're long enough that I'd consistently find myself lost as to which was which if I was reaching any modules in, say, the range of #4 to #9 or even #10. I'd be counting back from #12 or up from #1 and I do a lot of grabbing at that top half of the modules since all the program group controls are up there. Ideally I'd like to find something that looks more "factory" but the labels fulfill their purpose as they're very visible, and, after all, this mixer is a "daily-driver" as opposed to something behind a glass case (albeit a well cared for daily driver). :)
 
Cool! :)

Well, maybe after you've got it officially mounted in place, I can twist your arm to try a few more shots of the board with the Nikon camera and the more natural, normal "glowey" room lighting!...please! :D

Cheers! :)
 
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