sweetbeats
Reel deep thoughts...
I have plenty of 2" 499 in good shape that I got for about $25 per reel.
briank
analog for the people!
sweetbeats
Reel deep thoughts...
You're KILLIN' me, Smalls!
Heheh...nice.
Not as good as the 1" stuff for around $20 a reel.
Or as good as the two cases of NOS GP9 pancakes for $30 shipped.
Thing is the truth will be told when I start running the stuff. I'm not worried about the GP9 because it is newer Quantegy era stuff. The 499 is all Ampex branded except for one Quantegy reel. So far I'm having good luck with the 499...no sticky no flakey, but I haven't tested most of it. I only get splice-free stuff. And yes it is a big fat gamble.
sweetbeats
Reel deep thoughts...
The bearings arrived...
Never again....NEVER again will I used "skate" bearings for my reel machines.
I spent extra on getting nicer version skate bearings...ABEC 7, stainless races, silicon-nitride balls, etc. They suck. I don't mean to be crude but I just get irritated (at myself) when I get duped like that...against advice I tried them but there is just no comparing. I think I spent, like $6 each for the skate bearings and I just got a package of NOS NSK 608Z bearings for about $13 shipped...these are "standard grade" Japanese bearings but they feel like they are supposed to....smoooooooooth. They don't spin as long as the skate bearings. Its just a totally different application. There is nothing worng with there being a little drag and its just because they are lubricated with grease. The big deal with the skate crowd is how long they spin. Here I need the bearings to be as mechanically "quiet" as possible (within my budget).
Night and day, fellas.
Here are some short Quicktime videos to demonstrate. I did a before and after of the rotary guide just outside the head cover, and then an after of the reel idler assembly. NOW this stuff is rolling the way it is supposed to. At least my oldest boy will be excited to have some new ABEC 7 skate bearings.
Here are some YouTube videos of the before and after:
BEFORE
YouTube
AFTER (rolling guide)
YouTube
AFTER (reel idler)
YouTube
So anyway, I'm excited. I picked out the best of the new bearings and packaged them up with the pinch roller to send back to Terry Witt to have a look and make sure the pinch roller is tops. I think something is not right but this is really just another plug for Terry because the work he does is *critical* and he backs up his work and makes it right if something is not right, which may NOT be the case here and regardless I'm sure this happens seldomly (that something needs to be checked), but Terry is the kind of guy that doesn't question...he wants it to be right...he's a "send it to me and I'll take care of it" kind of guy. So that goes off to him today, and I got the rotary guide bearings replaced last night as well as the reel idler, and in the process of working with the reel idler I got my spare "lollipop" (the roller) installed. I was planning on doing that at some point because the one that came with the machine has a path in it for 1" tape. Now, I don't know if it is worn in or was machined in. I can't get confirmation that Ampex ever had two different rollers between the 1" and 2" transports, and yet the groove on mine doesn't look worn in...it looks machined in. Anyway, can't use that roller with 2" tape and back a fair piece a friend gave me another roller assembly that is smooth all the way across so I got that cleaned up and got the new bearings installed. And I also mounted on of my 2" NOS roller guides to the reel idler plate. I'm doing all this now because it is somewhat a PITA to get the reel idler assembly off the machine as far as removing the viscous coupled flywheel, so since I've got stuff apart to replace the bearings I may as well take care of the bits that will be necessary for 2" operation (like the head cabling I installed as well). So here is a before pic of that spare idler roller assembly:
Here it is now with both guides mounted:
Never again....NEVER again will I used "skate" bearings for my reel machines.
I spent extra on getting nicer version skate bearings...ABEC 7, stainless races, silicon-nitride balls, etc. They suck. I don't mean to be crude but I just get irritated (at myself) when I get duped like that...against advice I tried them but there is just no comparing. I think I spent, like $6 each for the skate bearings and I just got a package of NOS NSK 608Z bearings for about $13 shipped...these are "standard grade" Japanese bearings but they feel like they are supposed to....smoooooooooth. They don't spin as long as the skate bearings. Its just a totally different application. There is nothing worng with there being a little drag and its just because they are lubricated with grease. The big deal with the skate crowd is how long they spin. Here I need the bearings to be as mechanically "quiet" as possible (within my budget).
Night and day, fellas.
Here are some short Quicktime videos to demonstrate. I did a before and after of the rotary guide just outside the head cover, and then an after of the reel idler assembly. NOW this stuff is rolling the way it is supposed to. At least my oldest boy will be excited to have some new ABEC 7 skate bearings.
Here are some YouTube videos of the before and after:BEFORE
YouTube
AFTER (rolling guide)
YouTube
AFTER (reel idler)
YouTube
So anyway, I'm excited. I picked out the best of the new bearings and packaged them up with the pinch roller to send back to Terry Witt to have a look and make sure the pinch roller is tops. I think something is not right but this is really just another plug for Terry because the work he does is *critical* and he backs up his work and makes it right if something is not right, which may NOT be the case here and regardless I'm sure this happens seldomly (that something needs to be checked), but Terry is the kind of guy that doesn't question...he wants it to be right...he's a "send it to me and I'll take care of it" kind of guy. So that goes off to him today, and I got the rotary guide bearings replaced last night as well as the reel idler, and in the process of working with the reel idler I got my spare "lollipop" (the roller) installed. I was planning on doing that at some point because the one that came with the machine has a path in it for 1" tape. Now, I don't know if it is worn in or was machined in. I can't get confirmation that Ampex ever had two different rollers between the 1" and 2" transports, and yet the groove on mine doesn't look worn in...it looks machined in. Anyway, can't use that roller with 2" tape and back a fair piece a friend gave me another roller assembly that is smooth all the way across so I got that cleaned up and got the new bearings installed. And I also mounted on of my 2" NOS roller guides to the reel idler plate. I'm doing all this now because it is somewhat a PITA to get the reel idler assembly off the machine as far as removing the viscous coupled flywheel, so since I've got stuff apart to replace the bearings I may as well take care of the bits that will be necessary for 2" operation (like the head cabling I installed as well). So here is a before pic of that spare idler roller assembly:
Here it is now with both guides mounted:
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briank
analog for the people!
Oh sure, twist the knife. Twist it!
What was the 1" tape and what you gonna do with it when you go 2"?
I like the Quantegy 499 quite well, the stuff I've used is solid. Haven't heard of 499 failures even Ampex-branded, presumably it doesn't suffer the same binder failures as the 456 of that era?
sweetbeats
Reel deep thoughts...
What was the 1" tape and what you gonna do with it when you go 2"?
Its allllll 499, except I do have a couple reels of 1" NOS Scotch 206 that I got for $50 shipped... [twist...twist]
I'm expecting that I will normally use the MM-1000 as a 1" 8-track so I'm setting it up to be able to convert quickly between the two formats. Point is I will be hanging on to whatever 1" AND 2" tape I have and I'll source more tape as needed for whatever format I end up utilizing more often.
M
Muckelroy
Member
I like shiny things. Oh so shiny.
sweetbeats
Reel deep thoughts...
Me too!
Get this...I sent my pinch roller out to Terry Witt to reinspect on Tuesday...It got to him yesterday (Thursday) and he called me before the end of the day. He'd already mounted it on his arbor, checked it and cleaned it up...it was *slightly* off and is good to go now...I don't even think it was "off" more than the acceptable tolerance range...he said he'd get the bearings reinstalled and send it out before the end of the day. How's that for customer service? Same day turnaround. And, again, I REALLY doubt this happens often at all and I think my issue likely had MORE to do with the bearings I had put in than Terry's work but he checked it and made it even more right. I just want to make sure that, in no way, does anybody take away from this that Terry's work or service need be considered questionable, but rather on the contrary that he's THE MAN when it comes to rubber roller rebuilds!
This weekend I'll probably get the reel idler assembly reinstalled and finish building the snake to connect the MM-1000 to the mixer.
BTW I went ahead and bought another set of 10 of those 608Z bearings...it was actually just over $12 shipped. That's about $1.20 per bearing and these are normally $6~8 apiece.
sweetbeats
Reel deep thoughts...
Got the pinch roller back from Terry and did a quick install of it to check and it is grade A awesome. I pushed the roller against the capstan shaft and then put a dial indicator on the pinch roller arm and it is less than 0.0005" of variance if even that. What I'm up against now is that I checked to see if the pinch roller is axially parallel to the capstan from side to side (in reference to the sides of the machine). It isn't...just to be clear this has nothing to do with Terry Witt's work. We are golden with that. If it is out of alignment front to back (IOW tilted with respect to the capstan shaft like if you push the roller up to the capstan shaft and it only touches at the top or bottom) it can be adjusted if necessary where the pinch roller mounts to the pinch roller arm, but not so for side-to-side (i.e. if the pinch roller is tilted toward the right or left side of the machine with respect to the capstan shaft). So I'm working up a good way to shim the pinch roller bracket where it fastens to the arm because as it stands right now if I squat down at the front of the machine and then sight the pinch roller against the capstan shaft the pinch roller sticks out about 0.01" at the bottom when the top is visually flush. Not a big deal? In theory this would pull the tape down...which could be compensated in a number of ways but I'd rather just have it right.
Now here's the REAL frustration I'm having...fluid keeps leaking out of the viscous reel idler flywheel. I can't stop it. The trick is that it isn't leaking out past where the cover is fastened to the flywheel housing. Its like it is leeching right through the aluminum housing. I'm losing my mind over it, and I can't put the transport back together until I figure this out because don't want to risk Dow Corning 200 fluid flinging out on the innards of Matilda over time. I thought I had this problem taken care of a long time ago but clearly I don't.
Three steps forward, two steps back.
Now here's the REAL frustration I'm having...fluid keeps leaking out of the viscous reel idler flywheel. I can't stop it. The trick is that it isn't leaking out past where the cover is fastened to the flywheel housing. Its like it is leeching right through the aluminum housing. I'm losing my mind over it, and I can't put the transport back together until I figure this out because don't want to risk Dow Corning 200 fluid flinging out on the innards of Matilda over time. I thought I had this problem taken care of a long time ago but clearly I don't.
Three steps forward, two steps back.
T
The Ghost of FM
Banned
Maybe check with other MM1000 owners to see if their idler flywheel assembly's leak/leach too? If they don't, maybe a different Dow fluid product can be sourced to correct the issue...thicker, perhaps? Or if theirs also do this, maybe consider an elasticized plastic diaper/bag to encase it and stop the spraying onto other parts? I've seen some elasticized bowl covers mad out of an opaque rubbery plastic that might do the trick and allow you to keep a visual on how much fluid is escaping. I don't believe aluminum can actually leach fluid though, so it must be a gasket issue, if there are gaskets at play in there?
Cheers!
Cheers!
sweetbeats
Reel deep thoughts...
These particular flywheel assemblies are found on several other machines...440-8, MR-70, FR-300, and they aren't unique to Ampex machines...the idea was borrowed from the film industry. Leaking like this is not a problem, and I went through a pretty extensive process to ascertain that 200cs fluid is the proper grade...IIRC Jay McKnight helped me out with that referencing some historical docs. Putting anything over the assembly would effect the balance and the mass ratio between the inner and outer flywheels. There is a gasket where the cover attaches but it is the only part that is truly staying dry and clean. Its doing its job. I have a discussion going over at the Ampex List right now and it may actually be that there are flaws in the aluminum casting and it is leeching through.
Not trying to be difficult, Ghost...i really appreciate the input.
Not trying to be difficult, Ghost...i really appreciate the input.
sweetbeats
Reel deep thoughts...
So at the moment I'm still in flux on the flywheel problem. I'm still not convinced it is leaking from the inside; that it may be fluid saturated in the pores of the aluminum housing. If it IS leaking from the inside then there is the question of whether it is because the wrong viscosity Dow Corning 200 fluid is in there, OR if it is because there is some damage to the housing. I continue to warm the assembly and fluid continues to sweat onto the surface. I reviewed dialog from a year ago when I was led to the determination that the proper fluid viscosity is the 200 centistoke fluid I put in there. If for some reason that determination is flawed and the viscosity is too low then I suppose it is possible that it is fluid enough to leach through the cast aluminum. OR maybe there is just enough fluid soaked into the aluminum from it leaking out in years past.
Reviewing my notes on trying to clean the stuff up from before I realize I've been through this frustration before, though this seems to be to a greater degree. I'm trying to get some mineral spirits again since that seemed to help. I've been using iso alcohol and acetone and tissue. Its crazy stuff. I've realized that those efforts are fruitless. You'd think you could use tissue to wipe up just about anything, but you know what? I don't think this fluid soaks into tissue at all, and I believe the solvents I've been using are useless. You can wipe and wipe and wipe and it can look clean and dry but I'll you've done is spread the stuff out and then it congregates over time...OR maybe it is leaking out as well. I just can't tell, but first step is to get some mineral spirits, and I've started using a scrap t-shirt to do the wiping, one where I can see the wetness of the fluid in the cloth so I know I am actually picking some of it up when I wipe. When I cease warming the flywheel in front of the heater it stays dry. So why am I concerned? Because it gets warm inside that machine. Warm it and the wet patches/spots of fluid come back though I *think* they are decreasing since I traded the t-shirt cloth for the tissue. I'll continue wiping and warming and add mineral spirits to the process when I can find some (the "low odor" mineral spirits aren't the ticket and that seems to be all I can find just yet). Here is a closeup of the surface of the flywheel under 10x magnification. You can see that it has quite a texture:
On to other bits...its not all quandry and query...
I've got the pinch roller setup 100% to my satisfaction.
For some reason the yoke that holds the pinch roller measures 0.010" more from the shaft to the back of the yoke at the bottom of the yoke than at the top, okay? Can't imagine that is the way it is supposed to be. I thought I could use aluminum foil for shim stock to correct the discrepancy where the yoke mounts to the pinch roller arm. The foil is a little less than 0.001" thick. Well, I'd put three layers in between the yoke and the end of the pinch roller arm and that wasn't enough to correct the problem. I didn't like the idea of stacking more and more pieces of the foil. Then I found some 0.005" shim stock and tried that. Too much. I thought maybe some 0.003" shim stock would work but there isn't anywhere around here that carries such stuff so I started looking around the house. Guess what? Aluminum soda pop cans are made from 0.003" thick aluminum. So I made a shim out of a piece of a pop can.
Here is a shot of my shim materials, from left to right the foil, pop can and 0.005" shim stock:
Here is a shot of the pinch roller arm with the roller and yoke assembly loose so you can see where the shim is to be placed:
And here is the yoke fastened to the arm with the shim in place:
Here is the before closeup of the roller in relation to the capstan shaft...you can see that it kicks out just a shade at the bottom:
And here is the after shot with the shim in place...looks good:
And here is the dynamic duo ready to pull tape:
I tested the runout of the pinch roller arm again with the dial indicator and it is totally incredible. I can't believe what Terry Witt can do with these rubber rollers...I'd say the surface of the pinch roller is correct to around 0.0002", maybe 0.0003" tops. Incredible.
Here is a YouTube video showing the dial indicator tests as well as an overview of the debacle and solution with the tilt of the pinch roller:
YouTube
I'm still picking away at cleaning up the 16-track harness.
I also got ahold of another 1" rotary guide from a 440-8. I'm...not...sure...why. I originally thought I had an idea as to where to use it but...uh...not totally sure what I was thinking. So, I have another one. It was only $15 and it is better than the one I put on my MM-1000. $15 for a good condition precision 1" Ampex guide is good so....
ALSO...I completed the snake to interconnect the MM-1000 with my Soundtracs MX console. They are hooked up. I'm finishing up getting the console back together.
Just gotta get a grip on the whole reel idler flywheel issue because if it IS leaking I don't want to put it back in the machine until I get it fixed.
Reviewing my notes on trying to clean the stuff up from before I realize I've been through this frustration before, though this seems to be to a greater degree. I'm trying to get some mineral spirits again since that seemed to help. I've been using iso alcohol and acetone and tissue. Its crazy stuff. I've realized that those efforts are fruitless. You'd think you could use tissue to wipe up just about anything, but you know what? I don't think this fluid soaks into tissue at all, and I believe the solvents I've been using are useless. You can wipe and wipe and wipe and it can look clean and dry but I'll you've done is spread the stuff out and then it congregates over time...OR maybe it is leaking out as well. I just can't tell, but first step is to get some mineral spirits, and I've started using a scrap t-shirt to do the wiping, one where I can see the wetness of the fluid in the cloth so I know I am actually picking some of it up when I wipe. When I cease warming the flywheel in front of the heater it stays dry. So why am I concerned? Because it gets warm inside that machine. Warm it and the wet patches/spots of fluid come back though I *think* they are decreasing since I traded the t-shirt cloth for the tissue. I'll continue wiping and warming and add mineral spirits to the process when I can find some (the "low odor" mineral spirits aren't the ticket and that seems to be all I can find just yet). Here is a closeup of the surface of the flywheel under 10x magnification. You can see that it has quite a texture:
On to other bits...its not all quandry and query...
I've got the pinch roller setup 100% to my satisfaction.
For some reason the yoke that holds the pinch roller measures 0.010" more from the shaft to the back of the yoke at the bottom of the yoke than at the top, okay? Can't imagine that is the way it is supposed to be. I thought I could use aluminum foil for shim stock to correct the discrepancy where the yoke mounts to the pinch roller arm. The foil is a little less than 0.001" thick. Well, I'd put three layers in between the yoke and the end of the pinch roller arm and that wasn't enough to correct the problem. I didn't like the idea of stacking more and more pieces of the foil. Then I found some 0.005" shim stock and tried that. Too much. I thought maybe some 0.003" shim stock would work but there isn't anywhere around here that carries such stuff so I started looking around the house. Guess what? Aluminum soda pop cans are made from 0.003" thick aluminum. So I made a shim out of a piece of a pop can.
Here is a shot of my shim materials, from left to right the foil, pop can and 0.005" shim stock:
Here is a shot of the pinch roller arm with the roller and yoke assembly loose so you can see where the shim is to be placed:
And here is the yoke fastened to the arm with the shim in place:
Here is the before closeup of the roller in relation to the capstan shaft...you can see that it kicks out just a shade at the bottom:
And here is the after shot with the shim in place...looks good:
And here is the dynamic duo ready to pull tape:
I tested the runout of the pinch roller arm again with the dial indicator and it is totally incredible. I can't believe what Terry Witt can do with these rubber rollers...I'd say the surface of the pinch roller is correct to around 0.0002", maybe 0.0003" tops. Incredible.
Here is a YouTube video showing the dial indicator tests as well as an overview of the debacle and solution with the tilt of the pinch roller:
YouTube
I'm still picking away at cleaning up the 16-track harness.
I also got ahold of another 1" rotary guide from a 440-8. I'm...not...sure...why. I originally thought I had an idea as to where to use it but...uh...not totally sure what I was thinking. So, I have another one. It was only $15 and it is better than the one I put on my MM-1000. $15 for a good condition precision 1" Ampex guide is good so....
ALSO...I completed the snake to interconnect the MM-1000 with my Soundtracs MX console. They are hooked up. I'm finishing up getting the console back together.
Just gotta get a grip on the whole reel idler flywheel issue because if it IS leaking I don't want to put it back in the machine until I get it fixed.
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sweetbeats
Reel deep thoughts...
I've resorted to partially submerging the reel idler flywheel in mineral spirits. *sigh*
I've got a bad feeling this is ging to turn into having to open it up, drain it, seal it from the inside and then reassemble and refill.
I'm starting to think that it is indeed leaking through the housing.
I did take some pictures with my wife's D-SLR camera though while I was taking pics of my completed Soundtracs MX mixing console project...just some random pics of some facets that are what I consider to be small sculptures:
I've got a bad feeling this is ging to turn into having to open it up, drain it, seal it from the inside and then reassemble and refill.
I'm starting to think that it is indeed leaking through the housing.
I did take some pictures with my wife's D-SLR camera though while I was taking pics of my completed Soundtracs MX mixing console project...just some random pics of some facets that are what I consider to be small sculptures:
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sweetbeats
Reel deep thoughts...
Shoot...
I've tried submerging the reel idler flywheel in a bath of mineral spirits for days at a time. Its definitely cleaned up the exterior surface but the Dow Corning fluid keeps coming back in spots. I think it is actually seeping through the metal...
Not sure what to do yet. My options are:
1. Review whether or not I've got the right viscosity in there...the viscosity was from Jay McKnight's memory and then I correlated that with subjective comparison of the fluid that was originally left in the flywheel and comparing to olive oil which is about 200cs. Maybe we were wrong.
2. Increase the viscosity of the 200cs fluid by adding some like fluid of a higher viscosity (I have some 10,000cs fluid for the motion sensor switch assembly), but I have no way to quantify the viscosity after I mix it and regardless of that the information I have is that the proper viscosity is what I have in there already. Mess with that and you essentially impact the effectiveness of the device since the fluid viscosity determines the coupling dynamic between the inner and outer flywheels...the virtual "spring-rate" and that rate was designed for the transport to optimize the damping quality of the flywheel
3. Open up the assembly, drain the fluid, clean it up and coat the inside with a special silicon sealer. Hesitant to open it up again and even more reluctant to add something to interior. It is supposedly cooperative with the Dow Corning fluid which actually acts as a primer for bonding the sealer to metal surfaces, but it just makes me itch...the idea of it.
4. Quit worrying about it, let it leak and get stuff on the interior of my MM-1000...not too keen on that one...
Hm...
I've tried submerging the reel idler flywheel in a bath of mineral spirits for days at a time. Its definitely cleaned up the exterior surface but the Dow Corning fluid keeps coming back in spots. I think it is actually seeping through the metal...
Not sure what to do yet. My options are:
1. Review whether or not I've got the right viscosity in there...the viscosity was from Jay McKnight's memory and then I correlated that with subjective comparison of the fluid that was originally left in the flywheel and comparing to olive oil which is about 200cs. Maybe we were wrong.
2. Increase the viscosity of the 200cs fluid by adding some like fluid of a higher viscosity (I have some 10,000cs fluid for the motion sensor switch assembly), but I have no way to quantify the viscosity after I mix it and regardless of that the information I have is that the proper viscosity is what I have in there already. Mess with that and you essentially impact the effectiveness of the device since the fluid viscosity determines the coupling dynamic between the inner and outer flywheels...the virtual "spring-rate" and that rate was designed for the transport to optimize the damping quality of the flywheel
3. Open up the assembly, drain the fluid, clean it up and coat the inside with a special silicon sealer. Hesitant to open it up again and even more reluctant to add something to interior. It is supposedly cooperative with the Dow Corning fluid which actually acts as a primer for bonding the sealer to metal surfaces, but it just makes me itch...the idea of it.
4. Quit worrying about it, let it leak and get stuff on the interior of my MM-1000...not too keen on that one...
Hm...
T
The Ghost of FM
Banned
How heavy is the seepage/leakage?
Are we talking a couple of drops-worth per month or something more significant?
Also, does the outer housing of the unit spin or stay stationary? It's hard to imagine it spraying anything anywhere if the outer case stays still?
Cheers!
Are we talking a couple of drops-worth per month or something more significant?
Also, does the outer housing of the unit spin or stay stationary? It's hard to imagine it spraying anything anywhere if the outer case stays still?
Cheers!
sweetbeats
Reel deep thoughts...
It spins. The roller shaft is fixed to the outer shell and the inner flywheel is attached to the outer shell just via a high quality roller bearing andthen the two are coupled by the fluid.
The thing that concerns me about the fluid is that I can confirm that seepage occurs when there are changes in the ambient temperature, I imagine the increased temp expands the small amount of air inside the assembly creating positive pressure. Since things get pretty warm inside the MM-1000 there will be a constant driver behind seepage as the machine is powered on/off over time. Eventually there would be enough to start throwing material...I have no idea how long that would take to get to that point, but I don't want to worry about whether or not it is happening and how bad it is, etc. The stuff is obviously a challenge to clean up, and the flywheel is tough to access as it is, and once the electronics for channels 9~16 are mounted it will be minor surgery to get to it. I just want to know it is okay and not leaking...I don't want to have to worry about it. Reminder that I had to clean this stuff off the electronics power supplies, out of the inside of the control panel and off a lot of the wiring inside as well as the floor of the console from the assembly leaking due to loose cover screws from back before I owned it. It was a royal PITA.
The thing that concerns me about the fluid is that I can confirm that seepage occurs when there are changes in the ambient temperature, I imagine the increased temp expands the small amount of air inside the assembly creating positive pressure. Since things get pretty warm inside the MM-1000 there will be a constant driver behind seepage as the machine is powered on/off over time. Eventually there would be enough to start throwing material...I have no idea how long that would take to get to that point, but I don't want to worry about whether or not it is happening and how bad it is, etc. The stuff is obviously a challenge to clean up, and the flywheel is tough to access as it is, and once the electronics for channels 9~16 are mounted it will be minor surgery to get to it. I just want to know it is okay and not leaking...I don't want to have to worry about it. Reminder that I had to clean this stuff off the electronics power supplies, out of the inside of the control panel and off a lot of the wiring inside as well as the floor of the console from the assembly leaking due to loose cover screws from back before I owned it. It was a royal PITA.
T
The Ghost of FM
Banned
Well then, I've got nothing to offer solution-wise other then what I previously suggested about the elastic edged rubbery plastic bowl cover, which you said would throw off the weight balance of the assembly.
Sorry.
Cheers!
Sorry.
Cheers!
L
lukpac
New member
A long shot, but if you really think pressure has something to do with it, open it up, get it good and hot, then close it. That way pressure would always be negative, or at least neutral.
sweetbeats
Reel deep thoughts...
Good idea, but it wouldn't remain constant if my theory is correct since at least some equalization is possible through the pores of the housing...if that idea would work then my problem shouldn't be occurring in the first place.
sweetbeats
Reel deep thoughts...
So wouldn't know it, I've had the flywheel sitting up on the MM-1000 console for a few days. As in my post from a couple days ago the spots were coming back after I pulled it out of the mineral spirits bath and dried it off. Frustrated I just set it there without wiping the spots off. Yesterday and today? No spots. They disappeared. WTH. So I set it in front of the heat again last night and the spots returned but relatively scant in size and quantity...I moved it closer to the heat source, no change. Mmmmmmmayyyyybe I'm gaining on it and it really IS just an accumulation of fluid in the surface pores of the outer flywheel??
It was interesting soaking it in the mineral spirits...I didn't submerge the whole thing because I wasn't sure about submerging the cover and rubber seal so I set the assembly in the bath upside-down with the cover out of the bath. I put it in the bath several times and right away you could see the line on the surface between what was in the bath and what was not. The surface that had been in the bath was lighter in color and almost shinier...less matte I guess. Then after several days I decided to flip it over and do the bottom half. After a half day or so I pulled it out and the spirits had a yellowish tint to them indicating to me that something had come off the bottom surface. I had little hope though and like I said the spots came back but NOW they've disappeared, though I can make them come back with heat but it seems like it's getting better? I dunno.
I think what I'll do is submerge the whole assembly in the bath...continue the process. Maybe I'm gaining on it...
It was interesting soaking it in the mineral spirits...I didn't submerge the whole thing because I wasn't sure about submerging the cover and rubber seal so I set the assembly in the bath upside-down with the cover out of the bath. I put it in the bath several times and right away you could see the line on the surface between what was in the bath and what was not. The surface that had been in the bath was lighter in color and almost shinier...less matte I guess. Then after several days I decided to flip it over and do the bottom half. After a half day or so I pulled it out and the spirits had a yellowish tint to them indicating to me that something had come off the bottom surface. I had little hope though and like I said the spots came back but NOW they've disappeared, though I can make them come back with heat but it seems like it's getting better? I dunno.
I think what I'll do is submerge the whole assembly in the bath...continue the process. Maybe I'm gaining on it...