Studio build in unfinished "bonus room" above garage

  • Thread starter Thread starter robn
  • Start date Start date
You're going to be in sound engineer nirvana when that gets done......and you really gotta go with that ice cream cone diffuser.....:eek:

You think I'm gonna laugh at YOUR pic? You saw earlier what I look like, a hairy chimp that's about 40 lbs overweight......I believe I'll just keep quiet on THAT score.

Glad I could help you with your mind exercise ;)
 
Gonna try to work on my HVAC this weekend, maybe early Sunday morning when it should be cooler up in the attic (hopefully under 100 degrees anyway).

Rick,
I'm not near ready for this yet, but......you know my budget...do you think my money would be better spent on Green Glue or sound treatment? I budgeted $275 for Green Glue and $200 for treatment, and my budget spreadsheet shows about $350 left over.....of course, we all know that it may look better on paper :p

What's your opinion, spend $550 (leftover + budgeted) for treatment or $825 and forget the Green Glue?
 
What's your opinion, spend $550 (leftover + budgeted) for treatment or $825 and forget the Green Glue?

Hi Robn, I'm glad you asked. Yes, I have an opinion. And that is.. you need to do some SPL tests to make this decision. First off, the WHOLE isolation issue hasn't been addressed from a point of ACTUAL Transmission loss standpoint. In my opinion, why spend the money on TL strategys IF you don't really need it. And btw, remember my disclaimer. I am NOT an expert by any means. This is only my non expert opinion.

Here is what I'm talking about. You have THREE isolations issues. (that I see)
1. Sound propagation to the outside world via transmission through the building envelope. In your case, transmission through the floor/garage door/roof, towards your neighbors. Westward, I assume you have a neighbor closest to your garage door. Southwise, there is nothing, other than a bedroom. East, you have another neighbor. However, they are not adjacent to the garage door. North, is a street, which means there is distance to a neighbor across the street(if there is one:confused:). However, you have a brick wall with a weak link..ie..window, which I don't know what you did to improve TL through it).
2. Sound propagation to other living areas via airborn paths( common HVAC ducts, which hopefully your baffle boxes will help), leakage through door/jamb gaps and latchsets and or minute drywall gaps), low TL values through the rear wall assemblys(door/drywall/floor mass) and STRUCTURAL transmission via non-decoupling of the interior shell/ and or direct monitor coupling.
3. Reverse TL....ie...exterior/houshold noise propagation through the building envelope and HVAC.

Basically it boils down to this. WHY do you need additional isolation values above those that standard residential construction provides? Seems like a fair question, no? Well, this is exactly the point. Usually it is the FEAR of annoying some "persons" to the point that you must either:
1. Lower your monitor/performance volume levels to that which may "affect" subjective performance criteria, or subjective listening criteria, or even keep you from making CRITICAL listening decisions.
or..2 Improve the Transmission loss of your studio envelope to reduce this potential FEAR.

There are no other choices. Simple as that. Unless you DON"T fear.:D In that case...whats the point.:p


So,first off, lets define these PEOPLE who you potentially "fear":D

Who is it that you are trying to keep from annoying, where are they, what SPL is arriving within their sphere of reference, and what do you do to reduce it. Simple as that.


In order to DEFINE exactly what it is you need to do to successfully meet your TL goals, you need to find out EXACTLY what will possibly occur when your studio is performing what is designed to do....that is...PRODUCE sound.
But what exactly is the SPL of the sound you are producing? Without knowing this, you have no reference to the SPL reaching potential "fear inducers":D Not only that, but what sort of EXTERNAL sound do you either anticipate or actually experience that:
1. Masks or "colors" that sound which you are producing via instruments(your vocal chords are an instrument;)) or your monitors.
2

This means you need to perform some tests to identify the EXISTING TRANSMISSION LOSS. Here is what I would do. I believe you have an SPL meter, no? If so, you need to find out the SPL of your LOUDEST monitoring/performance, at different SPECIFIC bands of frequencies, as well as broadband sound such as different types of music, and then,
SPL of sound that is arriving at these potential fear inducers "sphere of influence", which may mean a neighbors yard boundary, an adjacent room, or rooms downstairs. So....

1. Purchase or download a CD of TEST TONES. Heres a few.

2. Gather some CD's of a broad range of music that is similar to what you might actually record or even listen to in your studio. Then

3. Set up an amp, playback device(CD, computer..whatever), and your monitors, guitar amp, and what ever else you may use to produce LIVE sound.(yes, you will also have to SING :D at the level you would during a recording performance.

4. Meet your neighbors and explain what you are trying to do. See,at their convenience, if they are willing to (help) to your effort to keep sound from potenially annoying them. Arrange for a time when they can listen over a period of say a half hour(maybe while doing houshold chores), when you can conduct these tests. IF, they are not willing, or you just don't want to bother them, then you must decide WHERE the boundary of influence is. Unfortunately, without acknowling their PERSONAL threshold of "annoyance",
you have to decide(guess) the maximum SPL that reachs this arbitrary boundary, such as the property line or fence. From that point, to the inside of their home, you have no idea of what TL occurs...ie...sound decay due to distance from fence to their building envelope...and the actual TL that their building provides.

5. Arrange for some help. You either have to:
a. record a continuous stream of tones and music so you personally can measure SPL and note, ... inside your room, the hall, the bedroom, downstairs rooms, especially the HVAC register locations( not to mention possibly at the HVAC units themselves in the attic) in the garage and outside the garage(with door open and closed) and at the various boundarys...like each neighbors fence...WHILE the stream is playing. OR,

b. Have someone do the measuring and notation of the SPL reaching the various locations while YOU playback the various tones and music as well as PERFORM....ie...play and or sing LIVE.

6. Actually perform the tests. I suggest you make up a sheet for each location, and make a column of frequency bands, like 40hz-100hz,100hz-250hz etc or whatever your Test Frequencies are. You might have to calibrate your monitors to something on the specific Test tone product. Then make rows of locations. Now playback each frequency at a specific maximum playback level that your ears tell you is the maximum level at 1000hz.

Note each of the SPL levels at each of the frequencys, at the ENGINEERING POSITION IN THE STUDIO.
Now do the same thing while playing your guitar, and then SINGING.

Now playback each of these frequencies again while listening at each of the locations and note the SPL levels at each of the frequencies. This is where you probably will need help. Either someone operating the playback or doing the listening/SPL meter notation.

Once you have all this info, then you will be able to somewhat get an idea of the TL at each area/location. From this, we can formulate an idea of what it will take to bring your TL up to snuff. Unfortunately, it really takes an expert to analyze this type of data, but I'm certain it will tell us something about your existing TL vs what you need to do to improve it. OTHERWISE...
go for the BRUTE FORCE methodology and simply bang up two layers of 5/8" with NO green glue. I believe the only way you will know if you need the GG or not is to do these tests as from my understanding, as GG removes double coincidence dips in two panels(makes them act as one). Whether or not you actually need GG withOUT testing, is sheer guesswork. Even with the tests, it would probably take an expert to decipher EXACTLY what is taking place, but at least we would have some data to work with vs none.;) To go ahead and use it arbitrarily is probably the same thing as BRUTE FORCE. Same with the RC. At least in my estimation. However, thats a LOT of extra money and effort to gamble on, given your studio purpose, unknown maximum monitoring level, unknown existing TL, unknown FEAR INDUCER tolerance levels etc.

What I'm trying to say is this. If it were me, knowing what I DO know about your situation , I'd forget the GG, Slap up 2 layers of 5/8" and spend a BUNDLE on treatment. I paid $600 for 4 sheets of 4" thick 4'x10' and 2 sheets of 3"x4'x10'. If you spent $825...I'd submit your studio would sound grand. Remember, the smaller the room, the more LF trapping you need. To the point where yea, it may get deader than a doornail in there, but you aren't trying to make a "live room" anyway. And theres always the FRk approach as well. (use a film over the traps to reflect the mids/highs).

Anyway...you asked, thats my opinion. Do what is best for you though Robn.
These are only my non expert suggestions to make decisions. An expert may disaggree. But so what. They disagree amongst themselves.:D
 
Rick,

Thanks for the explanation....

In regards to Point #1, yes, there is a street on the north side and a row of houses.....what I did with the window is build a box around it with 2X4's and 1" plywood and caulked the hell out of it with acoustic caulk....

The Fear Factor is having to subconsciously or consciously lower a performance level and mixdown level so that no one will hear my many mistakes and flaws.... "bothering" them is a factor also, but honestly the "mistakes" factor is my big concern.....ie I want to be able to belt out a remake of Bodhisattva without worrying that my neighbors (and to a lesser extent, my wife) will be thinking "my God that sounds like a moose in heat". :eek:

I'd really rather do the tests myself.......I have a freeware program that generates tones at any freq (Sine, Square Triangular, Saw Tooth, Impulse, White Noise, Pink Noise).....yes I also have an SPL meter (CEM DT-8850)....any recommendations for tone frequencies?

On a side note, bought some nearfield monitors yesterday.....ended up with a pair of KRK VXT6's.....

I think later in the evening would be the best time to test, around 10:00 PM or so.....I'll make a CD of tones and then some songs in the genre that I would be recording.....here's where I'm thinking I'll test....

1) middle of the driveway
2) middle of front yard, directly in front of studio
3) if necessary, middle of street in front of studio
4) middle of backyard
5) east neighbors driveway
6) in middle of my garage
7) living room
8) both upstairs bedrooms/bathroom
9) at AC vent in upstairs bedrooms/bathroom
10) my aquarium room on the east side....there is a potential flanking path along that way (goes west-to-east before that fake dormer)
11) upstairs hallway
12) at HVAC return in upstairs hallway

That ought to cover most of it.

As soon as I get the HVAC done, I'll probably be asking a few more design questions, particularly the south wall redesign.....BTW, on the south wall, were you suggesting the studio door/closet door junction would meet each other at the angle, or would there be angle/flat wall/angle?

I'm beginning to get a better understanding of TL/sound isolation, etc....but I have to be honest, room treatment is a completely foreign thing to me, and I'm pretty clueless about it.....the only thing I'm thinking about, going into it, is to finish the drywall, tape/bed, then get my SPL meter and use something like Room EQ Wizard to produce results.......how to analyze it is where I'll be needing some help somewhere......

But that's down the road a ways.....

I'll let you know when I get the HVAC and then the testing complete......

As always, thanks
 
Hi Robn. I couldn't post a pic or link to my server on the HR email/message thingy. Here is one of the issues I was referring to. There are others as well. But don't worry, we'll get this figured out yet.:D BTW, sometimes I don't have time to compress and resize these jpgs so when I upload them direct from my computer, the width compromises the thread width. Sorry. I just don't have time today to do that and upload to my server etc etc.:o:(
 

Attachments

  • 2nd Leaf Flanking Path.webp
    2nd Leaf Flanking Path.webp
    38.1 KB · Views: 148
Sound Testing

OK, I did some sound tests.....

Testing was done with Sony SSF5000 floorstanding speakers, 3-way, 150W, 8" woofer, 3 1/4" midrange, 1" tweeter. Speakers were positioned approximately 14" off the floor on a cardboard box, about 15" from the north interior wall, facing south down the length of the studio. I chose 17 test tones at 10 sec duration, then some pieces of various songs. I chose songs that cut across various spectrums and featured different instruments, hopefully you know most of them.

I didn't test in all the locations I listed earlier because I felt the results would either be irrelevant or redundant. For instance, I didn't test at the HVAC vents in the bedrooms because the sound thru the wall was all I heard.....I got up right on the vent and listened with 1 ear while closing the other ear, and I didn't hear anything coming thru the vents. For the outdoor tests, I didn't test on the west driveway because the sound was clearly being heard out the north side, ie. when I was on the west side the sound was predominant in my left ear. On the east side I tested next to the wall that makes up the east wall of the garage.

Here are the test results (readings are peak):
soundtest.jpg


Here are the music clips:
"All Of My Love" - Led Zeppelin - Track is middle synth solo and strings

"Cliffs Of Dover" - Eric Johnson - Track is right after the intro

"Dirty Laundry" - Don Henley - 2 Readings - 1st is intro, 2nd reading is first stanza of vocals...I also have the Steve Lukather guitar solo (2nd solo) but it didn't peak above the vocal start.

"Feels So Good" - Chuck Mangione - Track is the sax and guitar solos from the extended version, 2 Readings - 1st is sax solo, 2nd is Grant Geissman guitar solo

"For Your Life" - Led Zeppelin - Track is intro

"Games People Play" - Alan Parsons Project - Track is close to the beginning of the song, chosen for Alan Parsons great snare treatment, also has guitar solo but it didn't peak above intro......AP is my 2nd favorite group

"Godwhacker" - Steely Dan - 2 readings, 1st is intro to get kick drum, 2nd reading is when Fagen starts singing 1st verse. Steely Dan is #1 group, seen them in concert twice, bought 1st album in '72 and have loved them ever since

"Hotel California (live acoustic" - Eagles - 2 Readings, 1st is to get congo, 2nd is guitar intros

"Let's Talk About Me" - Alan Parsons Project - intro, chosen to show volume variances

"Perfect Love....Gone Wrong" - Sting (live) - intro and 1st verse, chosen for stand-up bass line

"Spooky" - Atlanta Rhythm Section - track is middle guitar solo

"YYZ - Rush - track from start and runs 2:12

Meter placement:
Studio - approximately 3' from speakers and in the middle, about ear height sitting in a chair

"A" Room - about 8" from north wall at middle of wall. This is the room next to the studio, so the speakers in the studio were pointed right at me

Garage - middle, about 3' off floor

Front yard north - directly underneath sealed studio window, about 9' from north wall and 3' from ground

Front yard east bench - about 5' off ground, just outside east garage exterior wall....Rick, this put me almost right underneath that fake dormer in the front of the house.

Here is a pic of the locations:
stlocations1.jpg


stlocations2.jpg


General observations - as I suspected, the garage was the worst location....the outside positions were worse than I thought they would be also.......I couldn't hear much of the vocals, but the low freq was heard fairly easily. I was surprised that the level wasn't stronger in the bedroom though. As I mentioned earlier, I couldn't really hear anything in the HVAC vents......

Hope this helps somewhat.........
 
Last edited:
:eek::eek::eek::eek::D WOW! WOW! and WOW!:D:D:D

Robn. In all the years I've been a member, and of all the times I've suggested people do this, YOU are the first one to actually do it, and do it RIGHT!! Congradulations SIR!:D Even your chart is magnificent!!;);) Kudos to ya!! Hip hooray!! Hip hip hooray! Hip hip HOORAY!!

OK!! Now we have something to work with. Tell ya what. I haven't heard back from Rod yet, and I may not. He is always a very in demand guy.:) Sooooo, heres what we'll do. I'm going to run this across the bow of some very acoustically "in tune"people cause like I said, I'm no expert on the science side of this stuff. BTW, before I do, tell me something. What "weight" setting did you have on the SPL meter? I completely forgot to tell you to use the "C"...uh, that is, I THINK I forgot to tell you...my memory sucks.:D

First off, for those people who are following this thread, let me quote something for them. This is a description of the settings on an SPL meter and what they mean.

Q: How is sound measured?
A: A sound level meter (SLM) is the principal instrument for general noise measurement. The indication on a SLM (aside from weighting considerations) indicates the sound pressure, p, as a level referenced to 0.00002 Pa, calibrated on a decibel scale. Sound Pressure Level = 20 x lg (p/0.00002) dB.
Often, the "maximum" level and sometimes the "peak" level of the sound being measured is quoted. During any given time interval the peak level will be numerically greater than the maximum level and the maximum level will be numerically greater than the (rms) sound pressure level; peak>max>rms.
Q: What does dB(A) or "A-Weighted" mean? C-Weighted?
A: A sound level meter that measures the sound pressure level with a "flat" response will indicate the strength of low frequency sound with the same emphasis as higher frequency sounds. Yet our ear perceives low frequency sound to be of less loudness that higher frequency sound. The eardrum- stapes-circular window system behaves like a mechanical transformer with a finite pass band. In EE parlance, the "3 dB" rollover frequencies are approximately 500 Hz on the low end and 8 kHz on the high end. By using an electronic filter of attenuation equal to that apparently offered by the human ear for sound each frequency (the 40-phon response curve), the sound level meter will now report a numerical value proportional to the human perception of the strength of that sound independent of frequency. Section 8.2 shows a table of these weightings.
Unfortunately, human perception of loudness vis-a-vis frequency changes with loudness. When sound is very loud - 100 dB or more, the perception of loudness is more consistent across the audible frequency band. "B" and "C" Weightings reflect this trend. "B" Weighting is now little-used, but C-Weighting has achieved prominence in evaluating annoying community noises such as low frequency sound emitted by artillery fire and outdoor rock concerts. C-Weighting is also tabulated in 8.2.
The first electrical sound meter was reported by George W Pierce in Proceedings of the American Academy of Arts and Sciences, v 43 (1907-8) A couple of decades later the switch from horse-drawn vehicles to automobiles in cities led to large changes in the background noise climate. The advent of "talkies" - film sound - was a big stimulus to sound meter patents of the time, but there was still no standard method of sound measurement. "Noise" (unwanted sound) became a public issue.
The first tentative standard for sound level meters (Z24.3) was published by the American Standards Association in 1936, sponsored by the Acoustical Society of America. The tentative standard shows two frequency weighting curves "A" and "B" which were modeled on the response of the human ear to low and high levels of sound respectively.
With the coming of the Walsh-Healy act in 1969, the A-Weighting of sound was de-facto presumed to be the "appropriate" weighting to represent sound level as a single number (rather than as a spectrum). With the advent of US FAA and US EPA interests in the '70's, the dBA metric was also adapted by them. (Along with the dBA metric has come an associated shortfall in precision in accurately presenting the capacity of a given sound to produce hearing loss and the capacity to create annoyance.)
[Editor's Note: A single number metric such as dBA is more easily understood by legal and administrative officials, so that promulgation, enforcement and administrative criteria and actions are understandable by more parties, often at the expense of a more precise comprehension and engineering action capability. For instance, enforcement may be on a dBA basis, but noise control design demands the octave-band or even third-octave band spectral data metric.]
The most commonly referenced weighting is "A-Weighting" dB(A), which is similar to that originally defined as Curve "A" in the 1936 standard. "C-Weighting" dB(C), which is used occasionally, has a relatively flat response. ""U-Weighting"" is a recent weighting which is used for measuring audible sound in the presence of ultrasound, and can be combined with A-Weighting to give AU-Weighting. The A-Weighting formula is given in section 8 of this FAQ: file.
In addition to frequency weighting, sound pressure level measurement can be time-weighted as the "Fast", "Slow" or "Impulse" response. Measurements of sound pressure level with A-Weighting and fast response are also known as the "sound level".
Many modern sound level meters can measure the average sound energy over a given time. this metric is called the "equivalent continuous sound level" (L sub eq). More recently, it has become customary in some circles to presume that this sound measurement was A-Weighted if no weighting descriptor is listed.

Actually, being a non-expert, especially at this level, I'm still not really sure if the C or A weighting would be the one of choice for this. Here is why..check out knightflys reconmendations at John Sayers.

http://www.johnlsayers.com/phpBB2/s...t&sd=d&sr=posts&st=0&ch=300&t=0&submit=Search

confused::confused::confused: Sometimes its A...sometimes its C.:rolleyes::confused::confused::D But I'ma gonna find out for SURE.;)
But now that we have some concrete data. The problem now is ...(in my non expert opinion) to:

1. Interpret the data in terms of existing transmission loss
2. Determine what your maximum SPL goal is at each location.
2. Extrapolate what TL you need to achieve those goals.
4. Determine the actual construction strategy to reach this Transmission Loss.

Not an easy task, even for a pro.:confused::D First off, trying to determine the maximum SPL goal at each location to insure the "fear inducers" arn't annoyed or you feel comfortable enough to "let er rip"(:D) is the most difficult. Naturally, you don't want ANYBODY to hear a thing! However, lets put it this way..if you needed 60db of isolation between you and each FI's, and the maximum TL you can realistically achieve was only 45db...well, I think you get my drift.:D..ie...it ain't gonna happen.:( Thats not to say this is what you really need. Only the worst case scenario. Ok, I'm outta time.


Ok Robn. I had to take my father in law to the hospital again..at MIDNIGHT!:rolleyes::( Didn't get home till 5 this morning. So, let me have a little time to recouperate...not to mention work on the mobile home. Re-laminated 7 countertops in the last 2 days.:eek:

Robn, you are doing your part. However, I want you to know that I'm just trying to help. Anytime you want me to "butt out"...just say the word. Untill then...I'll be back with something we can actually do something with.:)
Time to install some countertops though.:rolleyes: arrrrgggggrrrrrr!:D
fitZ
 
A strange anomaly at 450Hz in garage
I'd bet its a "membrane resonance" issue in the floor, or some "coincedence dip" thing in the floor panels. Rod says with any given assembly, there are certain frequencys that will pass through like "a hot knife through butter"! Seems thats whats happening. Problem....how to estabilish the fact...and then do something about it.;) Rods solution....MASS, MASS, and more MASS.....oh, did I mention more Mass?:)
 
Hey Robn, one more thing. Is there insulation in the joists cavities under your flooring, and or did you sheith the ceiling in the garage? Or is it open joist work. And what is the studio flooring material and how thick is it.
 
Rick,

HA!!! Surprised ya didn't I? Didn't think I'd do it, did ya? :D

I'm just glad my neighbors didn't report me as a prowler....I did the outside tests from 11:00 PM til 12:30 AM.....had a clipboard with my chart on it and a headband with light attachment......I'm sure it looked pretty weird....could have turned into one of those "Professor Gates versus the Cambridge Police" incidents!!!!:) I also turned the A/C off to not pick up the outside unit sound, then forgot to turn it back on when I came inside.....it was pretty warm this morning getting ready for work, then it dawned on me what I had done :p

Well, I used "A" Weighting/Fast for my tests......I thought that was the standard.......I read the link you gave me from Sayers site but didn't get any clear-cut answers there.....anyway, I tested with "A" Weighting......if you really think it needs to be "C", I'll do 'em again.

Hope your F-I-L is OK......what did he do this time?

Well, I'm fairly straight-forward.....if I didn't want your help (or anybody's help), I wouldn't be posting here........I'm just trying to be patient and do this right......I've already mentioned that it's not always easy for me to pull back on the reins.....but I'm trying. So yeah, keep the good info coming.....and ANYBODY else that wants to contribute ideas, let's hear it...

Yes, there is insulation in the joist cavities, if I remember correctly I put 2 layers of 4"-5" cotton fiber insulation in between the joists.........the ceiling in the garage is just 1/2" or 5/8" sheetrock.....the flooring is 1" plywood.....I could pull up the flooring and we could do something different.....if you think it would help....I haven't started knee-walling the west side or redoing the south wall yet.....
 
Last edited:
I have been planning on putting another 1" plywood on floor, then underlayment, then laminate......would it work out better TL-wise to go with ceramic tile instead of laminate? Just wondering.....or would it help to pull up the flooring, use pucks over joists, and then put the flooring back down? It's still a 2-leaf that way isn't it, Leaf 1 being the garage roof sheetrock and Leaf 2 being the flooring on pucks?

Just wondering....
 
I have been planning on putting another 1" plywood on floor, then underlayment, then laminate
What do you mean by "underlayment" Robn? Usually, that refers to 1/2" or 5/8" particle board vs Carpet underlayment which is usually 1/2" closed cell foam or in higher quality homes, a thick felt product.

would it work out better TL-wise to go with ceramic tile instead of laminate?
Frankly Robn, I don't really know. As a finish floor, personally I'd go with a THICK quality Laminate floor with locking edges over carpet underlayment.

I used a cheap 3/8" thick laminate floor in my studio, which has a fake wood(printed) Melamine face on a MDF core, laid on a thin foam underlayment(1/16":rolleyes:). The long edges have a locking joint(male on one edge and femaile on the opposite) which requires you to "rotate" adjacent boards "into" the preceeding board edge. This is fine, untill you have a room boundary or carpet threshold which is at an ANGLE to the boards length.:rolleyes:

In my case, I have an unusual floor paradyme.:D Let me tell you about this.
A long time ago I had a friend that had a garage studio with a LINOLEUM floor that sounded way too bright. At the time we knew nothing about studios or absorption and had very little money. My friend collected some carpet scraps, but not enough for the whole floor. He decided to use them around the room BOUNDARY to make a "border" between the walls and the center of the room about 30" wide, with a irregular edge(like a scribbled line). This created a lino covered area in the center of the room about 12' square
and the carpet boarder around the perimeter of the room.

When I first walked into the room, I could tell there was some kind of acoustical difference than the last time I was there. MAN, it sounded GREAT! Like a perfectly balanced RT-60(reverb time-I'll tell you what this means later)
We didn't know at the time what this does, and I've NEVER heard anyone on any forum or book discuss it. However, about a year ago, I saw some pictures of Apple Studios in England. LOW AND BEHOLD!!:eek: This is EXACTLY what they did in their huge control room. Since then, I've discovered what this does. From my understanding, it creates an "impedence" difference at the floor/wall intersection, which causes a quasi "diffusion" effect. Whatever it does, it makes MY room sound great cause this is exactly what I did in my little control room.:D I made a 24" wide carpet boarder around the room with laminate in the middle. HOWEVER...

Getting back to the "angles".:rolleyes::D Robn, when I first bought my house, the bedroom I picked for my studio had the EXACT same door "protrusion" as you have framed at present. To make my rear wall "symetrical", I did just like I suggested for your studio. I demo'ed the existing "protrusion" wall/door/jamb, and built a new one at 45 degrees, and another opposite one. This created a center "closet" for whatever I wanted to use it for, and a small storage closet on the opposite side. Worked great. UNTILL, I started cutting the Laminate flooring boards at the "angled" Threshold. Hindsight is 20/20, thats for sure.

I started installing my boards at the opposite end, which meant when I got to the angles, I had to "rotate" the boards to lock them in place. However, I had already installed the carpet/threshold. When the "points" on the angled cuts rotated, they wouldn't go under the wood threshold.:rolleyes::mad: I had to remove the wood threshold and replace it once the boards were in place. Oh well, it worked and all was good.:D

What I'm trying to show you is there are other things you can do in here. Not only that, it will be much easier to put in the REAL door threshold SEAL at a carpet boundary than a laminate floor boundary. If you decide to do this, let me know and I'll provide a detail at the door threshold.

It still looks pretty good. However, since the melamine face is printed, the edges at the joints are subject to moisture swelling should you spill liquids on it, and don;t wipe it up quick. The actual MDF boards are about 6" wide vs the "printed" boards on it, which are 2" wide with printed staggered joints which make these boards appear about 24" long. Since the REAL MDF boards are about 6' long, if you look close, you can see the REAL end joints as it crosses 3 printed boards. Most people don't notice things like that but I DO:mad::D

Anyway, IF,(still researching it) the 1/2" "carpet underlay" idea is valid, you'd need a GOOD quality THICK Laminate floor with more robust joints, as compression while walking may place a load on the carpet underlayment in such a way as this CHEAP laminate joints may break. At least thats my concern here.

As to the ceramic...well I don't know about that. I guess its all about preference.:D I like wood myself. Plus it will absorb to an extent vs reflect like ceramic would. but who knows? Its all in what you percieve, good or bad down the road. You can always put a throw rug somewhere too.

Just wondering.....or would it help to pull up the flooring, use pucks over joists, and then put the flooring back down? It's still a 2-leaf that way isn't it, Leaf 1 being the garage roof sheetrock and Leaf 2 being the flooring on pucks?
I'd be VERY leary of using ANY kind of pucks, unless the actual product was designed for it such as Sylomer. In reality, REAL decoupling requires the product to "compress" to a pre-determined "resiliancy" point. Outside of this range the "decoupling" disappears, and may actually make things worse. The whole "floating room" thing is based on this issue. Pro designers actually have to calculate the WHOLE load and distribute it, which means in a studio, the load is the actual room, equipment, people etc. NOT EASY:eek:;) In your case, I'd FORGET IT!
Now, the KIP flooring product I showed you is another animal entirely. This is designed for point loads within a certain range(humans and appropriate weight equipment) as it has Sylomer pucks placed within the rigid fiberglass at a predetermined interval pattern. The fiberglass keeps a "leaf" concept intact. At least from my understanding. Anyway, outta time. I'll be back soon with a bunch of info on the test analysis. Gotta go rebuild the front of the mobile home today. New T-111 and trim. Getting close now. :D
is.php

is.php

is.php
 
Rick,

My reference to "underlayment" was simply the stuff you put on a floor in preparation for laminate, I guess it's commonly used so that bits of grit or rock don't get under the laminate and cause a grinding sound when you step on it....

I prefer the laminate look myself......was just wondering if the harder ceramic would be more beneficial to reduce TL....but I would PREFER the laminate. Not to mention when it comes time for room treatment.

As to the pucks, I was referring to stud/beam isolators like this:
http://www.soundprooffoam.com/stud_beam_isolators.html
It would be a major pain to pull the floor up, but I'd do it if it was necessary. At this point I still could do it......I get any further in construction and it would get to be cost-prohibitive.

This may be what you were referring to in your post, but what if I put carpet over what I have now, then another 1" of plywood, then the laminate with underlay? Wouldn't that still be 1 big leaf? And the 1" plywood on top of the carpet should keep the movement of the laminate grooves to a minimum....I know that carpet may not have much TL factor, but it seems like it would help with structure-borne transmission.

When I redo the south wall, did you mean for both door planes to meet in the middle or is there going to be a flat wall (parallel to the existing bedroom) between the door planes?

\/ or \_/

Do I still need to hold off on building the west knee-wall or are we at a point where it's a "given"? I know I know, I'm getting antsy.....gets bad on the weekends because I feel like I should be up there doing something.:o

Thanks
 
My reference to "underlayment" was simply the stuff you put on a floor in preparation for laminate, I guess it's commonly used so that bits of grit or rock don't get under the laminate and cause a grinding sound when you step on it....
Oh, THAT "underlayment":D Yea, thats just a thin foam rollout product that most flooring places stock for putting under the laminate. It makes the flooing "float".:D And gives a little "cusion" feel. But I don't consider it real underlayment type stuff for our purpose. I'm still researching the 1/2" foam. I got a call into the local flooring "pro" whos a friend of mine. I should hear from him today or tomorrow. He was out of town. We'll see what he says. And I'll send Rod an email about it.
As to the pucks, I was referring to stud/beam isolators like this
I really never understood those type of things. Especially, in your case, IF, those pads rest on the floor joists, then what holds the panels together as you couldn't nail/screw them to the joists(it would negate the pucks). The only thing I see is if they are used to iso a "floating floor" frame from a slab or other floor. In your case, that would mean ANOTHER floor frame:eek:
At least the way I see it. Thats why I'm looking at 1/2" foam underlayment.
HOWEVER, I could be totally offbase. The fact is, the actual floor assembly is STILL a membrane, and will have its OWN resonance.

This is why trying to "isolate" the rest of the interior "envelope"(RC/drywall) just may be a waste of time and money. But like I said...I ain't the expert...ie...see my PM to ya!:D;) This is the WHOLE crux of the TL problem in your studio. But, WE WILL GET THE ANSWER YET!!!

This may be what you were referring to in your post, but what if I put carpet over what I have now, then another 1" of plywood, then the laminate with underlay? Wouldn't that still be 1 big leaf? And the 1" plywood on top of the carpet should keep the movement of the laminate grooves to a minimum....I know that carpet may not have much TL factor, but it seems like it would help with structure-borne transmission.
Yea, thats what I was KIND OF suggesting...except using 1/2" foam underlayment instead of carpet. And then either 1/2"/1" ply on top of that, then the THIN UNDERLAYMENT with laminate on that. HOWEVER, the problem is "pinning" or clipping the Plywood panels togeather so they act as one, as you can't fasten them through the underlayment..otherwise you defeat the whole "floating" principle.
But II could be wrong about this WHOLE STRATEGY. Thats why I want Rod's opinion. There is only 2 other things that I can think of.

1. Adding MASS to the existing subfloor via either drywall, cement board or thick ply, and just use the THIN UNDERLAYMENT/Laminate as you stated. If my "concern" about the membrane resonance occuring NO MATTER if you float a finish floor above or WHAT..is correct.this may be the way to go.

2. Build a DIY "KIP" type floor yourself, using 1/2" or 5/8" thick Ridgid Fiberglass CEILING GRID tiles, or sheets if you can find them. Then buy some "pucks" and insert them into a grid of cuttouts like this:
is.php


maybe using these...or something similar, although it may be difficult calculating the correct "loading" as these are for "point loads". Sylomer makes specific pads for this purpose but getting them is probably as expensive as the KIP roll out and you STILL need to calculate the loading to make it work correctly...ie compression vs decoupling. :confused:
http://www.kineticsnoise.com/hvac/npng.html

Although, and heres the catch. In REAL floating floor systems, the "floor" is a MASSIVE slab "floated" on springs or these:
is.php

is.php

See here.
http://blogs.cjsw.com/expansion/2009/06/24/the-floating-floor/

Bottom line...I don't really know if this whole "light weight floating floor" idea really has any merit at this point as MOST of the UNDERLAYMENT products that are manufactured for this purpose are defined as IMPACT NOISE reducers...ie this isn't a "vibration control system".:confused::rolleyes::o So Robn, we just have to wait for Rod's opinion, which we may get real soon. Thats my best answer at the moment. Sorry. Like I said...my disclaimer is in full force in this thread.:o gotta go...
fitZ
 
Rick,

I've gone to KineticsNoise website several times and looked at that KIP flooring.....is the purpose of the embedded pucks to add structural support to the layer that goes on top of the KIP? I assume it is.......

I'm thinking Option #1 would be the better way to go....certainly less "guesswork" than the SWAG that the DIY KIP would be;)

I've never worked with Owens-Corning 703 so I'm just guessing here, but would it work as the "meat" in this flooring sandwich? And wouldn't the shear weight of 1" plywood on top of whatever we choose to use as "meat" be enough to pin the leaf together as one? Would any type of sticky compound help in pinning?

Thanks
 
Hey dude, from a construction point of view, the paper backed glasswool you have between the rafters, it has a 50mm clear air circulating space behind doesn't it? just that I notice there is no vented ridge on the house or ones I can see in soffits, that would suggest over facia vents or breathable tile underlay, maybe you have covered this already dude, just notice rafters are sarked with 12mm sterling board and if this cant breathe you could end up with moisture and or warping problems.
 
CMunch,

Not sure if I follow you, but the insulation you see in the walls is resting against the roofing sheath (on the west and east walls)......the soffit board has breather holes in it......are you saying that the pressing of the insulation on the roofline walls is going to cause problems?
 
is the purpose of the embedded pucks to add structural support to the layer that goes on top of the KIP? I assume it is.......
From my understanding, the "pucks" are the actual "decoupling" mechanism, as the fiberglass is only there to dampen/absorb and fill the airgap. What part of the "decoupling" it plays, if any, I don't really know.
What I don't understand is the KIP floor system only uses a plywood/finish flloor on top, and what the specs say about "loading" these pucks into compression to the correct "resiliancy" point. I've seen this system used in a couple of studios over the last few years, but on slab floors common to adjacent rooms. Its proably designed with a compression range mostly for typical "human/equipment" loading. I've never researched it though.

The other system must have a different formula Sylomer or they're just thicker as its two inchs thick. That system is designed to decouple MASSIVE concrete slabs, which the fiberglass probably acts as a structural "bridge" between the Sylomer pads under a plywood and a visqueen layer which is laid before the pour. It also acts as a dampener/absorber as well I would guess. Although, with the weight of a concrete slab, the fiberglass probably "compresses" along with the sylomer but has no "resiliancy/decoupling" properties itself.
I'm thinking Option #1 would be the better way to go....certainly less "guesswork" than the SWAG that the DIY KIP would be

Absolutely.;) Although, the question is...how much mass to add to the floor membrane to lower the "resonant" frequency...Like Rod says...this frequency will "pass through like a hot knife in butter"! The lower the better. Remember, human hearing isn't linear. think...equal loudness curves.
http://hyperphysics.phy-astr.gsu.edu/Hbase/Sound/eqloud.html#c1
which I think as the distance doubles, has a bearing as well.

Like I said, this floor membrane/ iso decision may have a bearing on the RC/direct fastening issue as well. I just don't have the "expert status" to advise the correct way to go.
I've never worked with Owens-Corning 703 so I'm just guessing here, but would it work as the "meat" in this flooring sandwich? And wouldn't the shear weight of 1" plywood on top of whatever we choose to use as "meat" be enough to pin the leaf together as one? Would any type of sticky compound help in pinning?
In my opinion...no. The plywood/mass on top would be the "meat"(I think thats what you are referring to)
The fiberglass is simply and airgap filler/absorber/dampener and a bridge between pucks.

One more thing Robn. This "flooring" solution must interface the door/threshold solution as well. Once we get the skinny on this whole deal, then I'll draw up some possible solutions on the threshold/seals. Remember we have to address "air propagated sound" from room to room as well.

maybe you have covered this already dude, just notice rafters are sarked with 12mm sterling board and if this cant breathe you could end up with moisture and or warping problems.
Yea:rolleyes: its always a damn compromise in these situations between Sound leakage and construction norms. I've never seen this issue addressed before regarding Home studios. Maybe Rod talks about it in his book. I haven/t read the whole thing yet.
 
CMunch,

Not sure if I follow you, but the insulation you see in the walls is resting against the roofing sheath (on the west and east walls)......the soffit board has breather holes in it......are you saying that the pressing of the insulation on the roofline walls is going to cause problems?

Potentially dude, the holes in the soffit allow air to travel into and exit the roof space, when you fill with wool and then clad with gyproc etc you block that off.

Easiest way around is to make sledges with 45 x 38 or similair battons and 4mm ply, you dont have to make them the full width of the space between rafters which are probably set at 600mm centres. fit them behind wool.

Scuse the crap sketch:o

Oh and the sledges need to go from just above soffit to slightly above your new ceiling level.
 
Last edited:
Back
Top