Hey Rick!!!! Finished the honey-do list yet? 46 cabinets? I thought I had it rough!
Ha! Theres no such thing as "finishing" a honey do list.
I'm still working on 2001's
Hahahahahahaha! Thats why "I" haven't finished my own studio.
Actually, thats 46 cabinet DOORS. What were doing is remodeling my father in laws mobile home...fuck...worst project I've ever worked on. Made in 1984. Cheapest piece of shit ...the problem is EVERYTHING is made of a VINYL covered substrate..walls, cabinets, doors, trim..fuck..this stuff sucks. The ONLY thing you can do is PRIME it with an oil based primer before you do ANYTHING. And this thing is a 3 bedroom double wide. Not bad size wise, but geeeezus did they make these things cheap back then.
Anyway, I brought all these crappy cabinet doors home to refinish them. They are made of a crap particle board frame with a 1/8" layer of some vinyl faced fiberboard, thats machined along the edges. I found out during this fiasco, the best thing you can do is buy the ORIGINAL KILTS primer. Sucks to work with but works good on vinyl. Nothing will stick to vinyl unless you prime it with this stuff first. Took a week of testing different stuff on different surfaces to find out.
Actually what was worse was the walls. When they build these pieces of shit, they slap up 1/4" drywall factory faced with vinyl WALLPAPER crap. Uglyest thing you ever saw. Then they staple these narrow vinyl covered strips over the joints
Normally, drywall has a tapered edge on the long side, which allows for taping and mudding. But nooooooooooo, this stuff only allows filling the gaps. But you can't use joint compound because it will crack eventually. I use a product called DryDex. Its like spackle, but it has fibers in it. It actually is pink when you put it on, but when its dry it turns white. That way you know when to sand it. btw, it works great.
But, the problem is, you have to prime the joints first. Then fill. Then sand. Then prime the whole damn wall. And THEN...the good ole caulking trick.
Becuse they cover every joint with a tim of some kind, after you prime, you see a MILLION little uuuuuuuuuuugly gaps!! I caulked till I was sick of it.
Went through 10 tubes...geeezus was my finger sore.
BTW, I use a GREAT caulk called
You ought to try it if you can find it. Best stuff I ever used. The trick is to keep a wet rag handy, and wet your finger prior to dragging the surface. The other trick is to only cut the tip at a slight angle, and cut it back where the hole is real small,and only allow about a 3/32" bead or so. Depending on the gap though and this mobile home had some real doooozies.
Then shoot texture. Then RE-prime the whole damn thing again with a latex primer before painting...fuck..took forever. Got everything painted except the cabinets. Shot the doors with the primer(after 2 days of prep
) and then I shot the finish coat yesterday. I use an electrostatic spray gun for latex. I've got an airless, but too much fuss for this little job. The primer, even though oil based, if you let it dry good and hard works like lacquer sealer. You can sand it, reprime, sand again and the surface comes out nice and smooth. Then shoot with a good quality latex semi gloss. I normally use lacquer, but you can't use a laquerthinner based product on vinyl. It simply lifts the vinyl coating. So, I had to use and oil based primer instead.
Then I get to RE-laminate the countertops, re lino, and then its...yup...the BATHROOMS!
Most fucked up shit you've ever seen. I won't go there though. Lets get on with your project.
Ok, it's 5 in th morning. Don't know why I got up but I couldn't sleep last night. Maybe it was the half pint of Black Velvet.
Alright Robn. HEY! Your baffle box looks GREAT!
I thought you might build it out of 2x6 like that first picture.
One suggestion though if you haven't closed it up yet. I WOULD take the time to find some duct liner. Works MUCH better than a thin layer of batt insulation. Its the DENSITY that counts.
And your construction tells me something about you.
Do you have a table saw? How bout a compound chop saw. If not, they're cheap. I just bought a Hitachi for $90. Cheap. Works great too. If you decide to build the rear wall like I showed, you'll need one...and some compound miter skill too!!
Soooo, where are you putting this thing?
you sound so detail-oriented, I'm kinda like that myself
You don't know the half of it.
Detail is right. Thats because I was an architectural mill DETAILER for many years. First on the board, then computer. Of course, that was after spending YEARS on the bench as a union
journeyman millworker. I KNOW what detail is. Like they say...son, its all in the details.
.
In fact Robn, thats kinda what I wanted to show you here. Theres lots of PLANNING to be done so you know EXACTLY what needs to be done PRIOR to drywalling. Electrical, lights, blocking, built in cabinetry, signal lines, etc etc etc. There are tons of things I didn't bother to show you yet unless you were REALLY interested.
Ok, this post is getting really long, so I'm going to go on now. Hey, thanks for the pics(especially the pretty one
...THAT woke me up!!
(droool..pant pant!....sigh
) Ok, NOW I know whats happening on that west side. A fucking dormer! DOH!!!
I KNEW there was something strange there. Hahahahahaha! Nice looking house you have there. Musta cost a fortune.
One other thing Robn. I won't go into it here, but in my mind, FORGET the RC.
At least for now. You actually need to do some tests with your sound meter first. Later on that. Just hold that thought for now.
Last thing. So, are you interested in building the rear wall as I showed. There are quite a few reasons for it. Later on that too. I need coffee.
Ha! Ok dude, later.
fitZ
BTW, is this where the HVAC is? One problem I had though is visuallizing what the roof does on the west wing. By the looks of the framing, something is going on that I can't figure out, although its not important for anything but my "mind exercises". 
