if you're DIY'ing a headphone amp, the way to determine the power requirements in watts is to look at the op amps (or LM386 and so forth) chips you're going to use, and look at the maximum ratings. If you have four such chips, multiply the max ratings by four, then add 20% for a margin.
I didn't get a chance to look at the kit page you did, but make sure the amplifier uses something other than an LM386. It's not a bad chip for toys and such, but for a studio application you'll find the frequency response is not even close to flat. And as you push the chip to about 1/2 it's rated maximums, it gets even less flat.
Another kit is from PAiA:
http://www.paia.com/hda.htm
Schematic:
http://www.paia.com/hdasch.pdf
The PAIA schematic doesn't include the chip identifiers, because they want you to buy the kit. However, they are LM5532 dual-ip amps which are really nice, clean op-amps for very little money. If you're super cheap, you can also use TL084 op-amps but the output will be a little less.
BTW, in their old 8-bus consoles, Mackie used to use the 5532 op-amps to drive their headphone jacks, as did some fostex top-end consumer grade stuff.
I've made gear over the years when I had more free time to tinker, and enjoyed it immensely. I always struggled to enclose it into a rack enclosure, but nowadays a lot of companies make nice 1U, 2U and 3U enclosures that you can drill holes front and back, and shove your stuff in. A manufacturer called "Hammond" is my personal favorite, but there are others. Mouser and Digikey carry the Hammond product line. Bud also is nice stuff. Like so:
http://www.mouser.com/catalog/624/1375.pdf
For me, if it can't go in a rack, I don't want it.