Okay...thanks for doing that.
Okay. The tape returns and the PGM groups come into the Monitor A PCB's (the 8 PCB's that have all the LEVEL and PAN knobs for the monitor mixer...the first card has the channel 1 and 9 pots, the second has channels 2 and 10 all the way to the last one at the right of the mixer with 8 and 16) and they all get combined into one 3-conductor wire with R, L and ground that goes to the Monitor B PCB (one PCB...it has the actual amplifiers to get the monitor mixer sum to all its places). At this point we can assume that the circuitry on the Monitor B PCB is okay. That's what we were testing when I had you see if you got only the R channel or both R and L when connecting your DAW to the MON SUB IN jacks...you see, those jacks daisy chain right on to the same place as the output sum from all the Monitor A PCB's...I hope that makes sense. On the Monitor B PCB, if
neither the output from the Monitor A PCB array
or the MON SUB IN jacks worked then I'd be doing what I said eairlier about checking the monitor select switchrack PCB and U7 on the Monitor B PCB. But since the MON SUB IN jacks work we know that the Monitor B PCB and MON section of the MONITOR SELECT switchrack is working okay. That's good news AFAIC.
So the problem is further upstream than the Monitor B PCB, and my top suspect is that 3-conductor wire from the monitor mixer channel 1/9 PCB. There is a picture of the
left side of the channel 1/9 PCB below, and the connector would be on the
right side of the card (left and right as it sits in the mixer). The connection is labeled "P3". What you are
probably going to have to do to do this right is get to that conection to inspect it, seat and reseat it a couple times applying contact cleaner like DeoxIT. To do that you'll need to:
- First, always-always-always disconnect the power supply from the mains power, and then switch the power supply on for a few minutes to discharge the electronics.
- Tip the meter bridge/jack panel assembly back like I described earlier and find a way to safely prop it open.
- Remove the trim strip between the armrest and faders (also 6 screws)
- With the meter bridge tipped back and the trim strip removed you can now see the screws at the top and bottom of the master section that hold that to the frame...I think two at the top and two at the bottom. Remove them.
- The master section is now free to tip up at the fader end like the hood of a car. Find something sturdy with which to prop the master section up.
- Now you'll remove the left master dress panel (notice there are two sections to the master section dress panel). To do so you need to pull the knobs off of the monitor mixer channel pots 1, 2, 3, 4, 9, 10, 11, and 12. You'll also need to remove the knobs from the AUX 1 ~ 4 masters, STEREO A master and PGM BUSS 1 ~ 4 masters.
- Now remove the screws that attach the left dress panel to the master section subframe; 1 at the top center, on at center-center, and 8 at the bottom that also hold the PGM BUSS 1 ~ 4 faders to the subframe. You can just let those faders hang.
- Now the panel should lift off and you can see the nuts that hold the monitor mixer pots (and hence the Monitor A PCB's) to the subframe. You just need to remove the 4 nuts that go to the monitor mixer channels 1 and 9 LEVEL and PAN pots. A 10mm deep-drive socket works really good as a hand tool for pot nuts. If you don't have that any 10mm wrench will do or adjustable hex-wrench.
- Now here's where I don't know yet if once the channel 1/9 PCB is free if you'll be able to drop it down enough to lay it to the side and get to that connection. The BUSS or Monitor B PCB is right under those Monitor A PCB's. If you're into this follow these instructions and see how it goes. If you run into trouble and need further direction let me know and in the next few days I'll try to have a look at my spare M-520 master section and see what more might be involved in getting to the connection.
If simply cleaning and reseating that P3 connection doesn't do the trick then you would check the continuity of the three conductors from the Monitor A 1/9 PCB to the Monitor B PCB with a multimeter (ideally from points on the Monitor A PCB itself to points on the Monitor B PCB so you include testing the solder joints of the connections in your test).