Tentelometer...Am I doin' it right???

[sweetbeats]

Please, if you use a Tentelometer and know how to calibrate it, could you check this video out and let me know if I'm doing it correctly?

YouTube

I'm trying to adjust the tape tension/tension arms on my 58-OB. I've adjusted the tape tension to the factory spec ranges using my Tentelometer, but in doing so it causes inappropriate tension arm behavior (this I have confirmed via communication with a couple other 58 users, as well as the description in the manual). So the video is basically to show you how I am calibrating the Tentelometer, and how I am using it to compare notes with anybody that can help.

Thanks!

BTW the model of the Tentelometer is the T2-H20-ML. I got mine used but it is in 9/10-10/10 condition and I had no problem bringing it into spec using the calibration weight, assuming I am using it right...which is the whole reason for this silly post...

 

[Beck]

Cory,

You’re doing the calibration with the piece of tape and weight wrong.

1. Hold the tentelometer in your left hand with the probes pointing in the opposite direction of how you had it in the video. The meter should still be facing you as before. The backcoating will still be in contact with the two support probes and the oxide will be in contact with the actuator probe.

2. Hold the tape with 1 oz weight in your right hand and pull the weight upward. Although you may read that you should measure by letting the weight drop downward as well, there has been some debate about these instructions. The general consensus seems to be that measuring with the weight falling would make it appear as less than 1 oz to the tentelometer. The kinetic friction coefficient between the tape and probes is too high for that light of weight, so it will skew the measurement.

As you can see by using the above method, you’re still calibrating the tentelometer with the tape moving in the right direction (play direction), but are now pulling the 1 oz weight up instead of letting fall.

Make sense?

 

[cjacek]

Tim,

Thanks for pointing this out 'cause I too was doing the calibration wrong and, I must point out, exactly as per Cory's demonstration.

Thanks again Tim and great video Cory!!

Cory: .... a bit off topic, but what type of still camera and video camera are you using?

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[sweetbeats]

Tim,

I can't thank you enough. The manual is definitely lacking in its instructions in this area.

The way you describe doing the calibration makes perfect sense logically now as you are introducing a partial negating effect on the mass of the weight seen by the Tentelometer when you give in to gravity as you drop the strip/weight. On the other hand the meter sees the full value of the weight when drawing it upwards.

I'm going to post how your correction effected my tension adjustments over in Tascam 58-OB Story.

Daniel, the still and video cameras are one and the same. We have a Canon S1-IS. We like it because it uses the CF card format...cheap. I have a 4Mb card in it that I got ages ago for $35. Cheaper now. It is a 3 megapixel camera. Dated at this point but has worked well for us. Another big deciding factor was the 10x optical zoom. The video function will do 30fps at 640 x 480 fine, although the movies don't last long because of the CF card I put in...can't keep up with the data stream for more than a minute or two, but at 640 x 480 regular it'll record video until the card fills up. All the movies I put up are 15fps 320 x 240. It doesn't have a macro mode, but can focus in pretty for pseudo-macro pics. It has a full manual mode too. I took some cool pictures on a moonlit night looking out toward our field. I think I opened the aperature up all the way and used, like, a 60 second exposure. Came out really neat. Bottom line is it works...which I can't say for the A60 that preceded it, though we liked to...lense mechanism froze up 1 month after the warranty expired...it was worthless...I opened it up and tried to figure it out. Couldn't do it, and when I put it back together and put the batteries back in it...ah...got really hot and stinky....WOWEEEE!. Exciting...oh well...maybe THAT'S why I'm nervous about building a power supply for my M520 ya think???

 

[FALKEN]

hey i wanted to watch this but for some reason I dont get any video, only sound. I would love to see a demonstration of the proper way to do this, maybe in a different file format?

 

[sweetbeats]

FALKEN,

The video is in an Xvid mpeg-4 format. There are probably many ways to view it, but I really like the AVS Free DVD Player I could put it up in native format but it would be 75Mb, and I'm on a 10mbit connection...

[EDIT]

The videos have since been uploaded to YouTube and link updated.

 

[sweetbeats]

Beck,

Since I'm still having some trouble getting my 58 tensions right, would you agree that it might be worth me putting up another short video of how I'm calibrating the Tentelometer now to make sure-sure-sure I'm doing it right?

 

[Beck]

Beck,

Since I'm still having some trouble getting my 58 tensions right, would you agree that it might be worth me putting up another short video of how I'm calibrating the Tentelometer now to make sure-sure-sure I'm doing it right?

Sure, that would probably be a good idea. One other thing I should have mentioned (but it was late and I was fading) is to make sure the probes are clean and as mirror-smooth as possible. They are stainless steel, but they can still have an invisible residue from use or from the typical disintegrating foam lining of the case on the older ones.

I lightly clean the probes with Brasso or Silvo, maybe once a year, and normally just wipe off with a lint free cloth after each use. Put some Brasso on a cloth and twirl it around one probe at a time in the same way tape would pass (with the “grain” of the metal). You don’t want to polish up and down, and only apply the Brasso from the tips to about half way up or however far the tape will make contact with the probes. Just avoid getting the Brasso into the unit itself. After you polish the Brasso off with a dry cloth per the instructions on the can, you should then wipe with a damp cloth as the final step.

Cory, is the needle on the meter jumping around (fluttering) a lot when your using it on the 58 or it is a fairly smooth and steady reading? It won’t be rock solid, but should not be swinging wildly back and forth by much.

 

[sweetbeats]

Tim,

in PLAY the needle is steady as can be. It is also steady on the supply sides in SPOOL. It is more erratic on the takeup sides in SPOOL...the higher tension test.

 

[sweetbeats]

Also, the probes look new. They didn't have any shine on them at all until I used it...like the probes just looked kind of like silver adonized aluminum, and now they have burnished areas...is it possible that it hasn't been used before I got it? Would that effect its performance (i.e. is there a break-in period)?

 

[Beck]

No break-in period. Hard to tell if it's ever been used, but my guess is it has from the pic of the case in the listing. The probes should be shiny. Even though they’re stainless they can still get dull from environmental conditions while in storage. Definitely polish it up and remove any tape residue after each use.

The steady needle is a good sign.

Hope that helps.

 

[cjacek]

Man, you guys are lucky. The tentelometer I've received, the T2-H20-MLD [not sure what the 'D' stands for] had rust on just about every area, available to the naked eye, not so bad on the 3 prongs though. On the back, all the screws are rusted and so is the base on which the prongs 'sit' and a little bit inside as well [from looking through the opening of the base]. It's got a hairline crack on the back and it's got some tiny bits of foam stuck inside. The prongs had specs of rust which I've lightly cleaned off with very fine sandpaper. Amazingly the thing works well and can be easily adjusted for the 1oz weight.. The seller claimed NOS but that the foam was deteriorated. They failed to mention the rust.. I got it for $130 shipped. Complained to the seller and they apologized, said they'd return my money if I shipped the item back. Frankly I don't feel like going through this ordeal yet again so I'll just bite the bullet and leave it at that. Yeah I got ripped off but at least I got one of those tentels..

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[cjacek]

Daniel, the still and video cameras are one and the same. We have a Canon S1-IS.

Man, that is one hell of a nice camera. The videos are especially superb.

I still use a 1MP camera by Sony. Every picture that I've posted on this board was made on this model.

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[sweetbeats]

Daniel and Tim,

A pic of my Tentelometer in the case is below...no punky foam or rust, though I think all in I paid like $225 for it...

Also, I put a closeup of the probes so you can see what they look like...they don't appear oxidized or anything, but the bright strip on the center of the actuator probe is where the the tape runs...

ALSO, here is a video showing the return demonstration of my newfound Tentelometer calibration technique (thanks to Beck)!

YouTube

Anyway, just looking for validation that I understood the directions for how to do it right.

 

[cjacek]

Cory, amazing picts. Love that camera!

..I'm also very jealous of the condition of the tentelometer. Mine doesn't look as crisp. Paid $130 [all inclusive].

Will d/l video in a sec...

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[cjacek]

Man, after viewing that excellent video, I wish someone would make one like that of the proper way to demagnetize.

BTW, Cory, are you getting different readings when pulling the tape up and toward you vs up and up?

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[sweetbeats]

Daniel, go to bed!

Hey, the whole pulling up and toward vs. up and up was to avoid the potential of going up and slightly away, which would definitely skew the readings. I don't think the reading differs as long as I am pulling up and straight up. I'll be really interested in what Beck has to say about all this though.

Man, after viewing that excellent video, I wish someone would make one like that of the proper way to demagnetize.

I actually thought about creating a directory on my ftp site of how-to videos...I know it would have been really helpful at times for me...now my only question on demagging is whether or not I'm doing it right!

Maybe I'll do one, put it up and see if the community agrees it is righ and then post it up all official like...

 

[cjacek]

Daniel, go to bed!

Hey, the whole pulling up and toward vs. up and up was to avoid the potential of going up and slightly away, which would definitely skew the readings. I don't think the reading differs as long as I am pulling up and straight up. I'll be really interested in what Beck has to say about all this though.

OK, cool.

I actually thought about creating a directory on my ftp site of how-to videos...

That is a damn good idea!

...but make sure you don't experiment with demagnetizing, 'cause there's only one chance to get it right. Otherwise, if it ain't correct, then ya might have to replace that head-stack!

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[sweetbeats]

Spare headstack in the garage on the parts or repair 48...

Sorry...that's sick...

It was actually a good experience demagging my tools because it gave me a feel for the unit.

 

[cjacek]

Spare headstack in the garage on the parts or repair 48...

I'll pretend I didn't hear that!

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