Tascam M-___ Story...

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The switch caps

Hey!

I just noticed that the latching switch caps on the M-___ are the same as the M-200 series and possibly the M-300 series mixers...I wonder if the switches are the same? That could come in handy if I've got a bad switch and Tascam still has any of them on hand...maybe that is hoping fo a bit too much...
 
Replacement Value

I have the awkward task of trying to assess the replacement value of the M-___. I have no idea. Anybody want to take a crack at it?
 
Priceless. ;) Actually, it is not replacable, since it is a one of a kind. I doubt very much that there are two of those floating around out there. Placing a value on a prototype is rather tough. I assume you are talking about a value for insurance?? I would just put a value on it of about $3,000-$5,000 and go for it.
 
Why not place a value of 10 grand on it? Think about it -- if you had to replace this, you would want a like-new or equivalent mixer with the same features. A decent mixer with all of the routing capabilities of this one in today's markets would be..........at least 10 grand I think.
 
Pluggin' along...

Got the Test OSC PCB recapped (that's the far left of the 4 PCB's that make up the master Control Module...it has the tone generator and talkback mic and controls). I also got all the caps removed from the Phono Amp PCB (that's the far right one of the 4...the one that had all the mouse poo on it...I must say...there is nothing quite like the smell of molten solder and hot rodent pee mixed together... :eek::rolleyes:

I also went through these two PCB's with a fine tooth comb...did some more detailed cleaning, cleaned up all the wires and plugs, used a scotch-brite pad soaked with DeoxIT on all exposed connection terminals to shine them up, etc. Found some loose wire connections and broken wires so I resoldered/repaired them. I also repaired the Phono 1 level pot that had the broken shaft. More on that below.

Here is a picture of the two PCB's after my work last night...the Test OSC PCB is in the background with the nice new light-blue Nichicon KT capacitors; the Phono Amp PCB is in the foreground sans electrolytic caps:

Test%20OSC%20PCB%20done%2c%20Phono%20Amp%20PCB%20in%20progress.JPG



Here is a picture of the repaired Phono 1 level pot...it is the one on the left. If you look back on pictures of the whole mixer this is the upper-right-most pot on the control surface of the mixer. It was a bit hairy to swap the pot out because I only had two spare 10K(A)X2 pots...both are M-520 spares but have the wrong terminals...obviously the ones on the M-___ call for surface-mount, while the M-520 versions have solder lugs on them for wires rather than direct solder to a PCB. I pulled the busted pot and the replacement pot apart and swapped the bottom resistive element so at least 3 of the terminals were proper...the bottom 3. The top three were of a shape that I was able to modify them to fit. So here it is:

Repaired%20Phono%201%20Level%20Pot.JPG



For a refresher, here's what it looked like before being replaced:

Monitor%20Master%20PCB%20After.JPG



Here's a shot of some of the wire repairs I had to do...2 of the 5 wires that I'm pointing to were broken, another was hanging by one strand and yet another was half gone. I had to look close and it caused me to look back over the rest of the connections...found a couple wires going into a multi-pin plug that weren't crimped or soldered, just stuffed in there.

Repaired%20Control%20Module%20Wiring.JPG



Last but not least here is the baggie of caps I pulled from the Phono Amp PCB. You can see a couple in particular in the foreground that look bad. One is all corroded from rodent activity, and another is definitely bulging at the top...there were a number of the 46 caps on that PCB that looked like these examples:

Old%20Phono%20Amp%20PCB%20Caps.JPG



So the Control Module refurb is about halfway done I suppose. Still need to:

  • Install new caps on the Phono Amp PCB (some are on order)
  • Install one more cap in the Studio PCB (on order)
  • Recap the Control Room PCB (some caps still on order)
  • Repair the Echo 2 Return level/pan pot (broken...that's going be hairy)
  • Recap the two Balance Amp PCB's (again, some of the caps are on order)
  • Finish cleaning and inspecting the wiring, repairing as needed
  • Clean the jacks and jack panel level select switches
  • Clean the knob and switch caps
 
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Ahhhh something relatively simple (non electronic)

I got the fader trim-strip back on...it was a little more complicated than just putting it back on.

I cleaned it up with the same polish I'm using on the module dress panels. Came out nice.

Here's the "little more complicated" part: when I got the mixer the trim-strip was held on by 4 of 5 total possible screws...mismatched. Now you all know by now that that just does not sit well with me...:p

This is the collection of screws that originally (barely) held the trim-strip to the armrest:

Old%20Trim%20Strip%20Screws.JPG


Funny thing is that none of these screws really fit the holes in the armrest...they were all either too small or too big...the fattest screw you see in the above picture is a 3mm x 0.5mm pitch screw used on the M-500 mixers all over the place, including the trim-strip. These are the ones I wanted to use to be consistent with the M-500 family resemblance, but there was only one hole in the armrest (the one that the screw was in) that sort of fit the screw...it was tight and the threads were burnished. Time to look for a 3mm x 0.5mm pitch tap and tap drill. Yes, I could have just used whatever screws fit the threaded holes that were there, but I couldn't figure out what they were. :eek: I couldn't get the thread-pitch to match up with english or metric thread pitches...:confused:

Ended up finding the tap and the tap drill. It was harder than I thought it would be, but I found it at a great hardware store that has been around for over 100 years in "the big city". :D Used to go there all the time when I worked in the machine and tool shop.

Here are the screws that were destined to be used...much nicer.

New%20Trim%20Strip%20Screws.JPG



And after carefully oversizing the holes with the tap drill and then chucking the tap in the drill and cutting the new threads the trim-strip went on quite nicely. ;)

Trim%20Strip%20Installed%201.JPG


Trim%20Strip%20Installed%202.JPG


Please don't ask me about the wacky looking light bulb...white elephant...wasn't supposed to be in the picture...
 
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Three Strips At Once!!!

I am, without a doubt, livin' on the edge baby!!! :D:D:D

getting ready for a tracking session in a few weeks and I'd like to use the M-___. Its just a single vocalist but I figure (without the master Control Module ready), three strips will give me what I need to track, monitor and provide a stereo cue mix for the vocalist.

Not taking the time at this point to tear down the input modules I'm using to get them all clean and sparkly...that will come with time. It was time to just plug them in and hit the switch. No smoke. ;) Everything lights up. I'll have to wait a few days to see how they pass audio tho', but that is the next step.

IMG_9297_3_1.JPG



I've been spending some time here and there getting stuff mounted and installed as well (i.e. monitor stands, computer monitors, starting to load racks, etc.)

Here's how things are looking:

IMG_9288_1_1.JPG



And with the lights dimmed...:

IMG_9291_2_1.JPG



Here's a closeup of the rack that is below the mixer...I tried to keep it loaded with stuff that is most closely associated with mixer operations (4-channels of dynamics processing, stereo spring reverb, RCA patchbay and of course the power supply and power distribution):

IMG_9301_4_1.JPG



The BR-20T (to the right of the M-___) sits in a nice Tascam rack that is tilting and has 14U up to and 8U down below...since the BR-20T is only 10U I've 12U total available for additional gear. I'll be loading the lower section with all the DAW interface units, mastering hardware and additonal power conditioning, and the upper section will have room for stuff I need to access easily like additional patchbays and the headphone amp. Having all that gear in that one rack will make it easy to transport if I need to do location digital multitracking, or analog two-track recording or mastering. ;)
 
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3 strips....

...gives new meaning to the term "use what you've got".:D Looks real good, Cory!:)

BTW, what's that "wacky looking light bulb...white elephant" thingy doing there? Me wants to know!:D:D:D:D:D:D:D
 
heehee

That bulb...I got that at our Bible study group's annual white elephant gift exchange, and then to be funny my wife put it in the lamp in the studio. Its totally ineffective for illumination but it LOOKS cool. :D It's just a regular bulb that's been painted all rainbow like and then its got the spikes on it which are just silicon. I took it out of the lamp and put a regular bulb back in so I could see better and it sat there on the mixer table long enough that I stopped seeing it. :)
 
Crankin' along...

Productive night last night...

Working on getting the master Control Module recapped so's I can put it back together and see if it smokes when I plug it into the frame...:rolleyes:

Still waiting for some caps that are about 1.5 weeks away, but I got all the caps pulled out of the Phono Amp PCB (the far right of 4 in the Control Module) and all but 8 new ones in...no issues of any significance, but there was a nasty looking corroded solder joint for another component so I cleaned that up, and a possible cold joint on one leg of one of the opamps so I dressed that up.

Here it is in the foreground with the new caps (save for the 8 I'm waiting for)...remember, this is the one that had a busted pot and a pile-o-mouse poo and pee-pee on it:
Phono%20Amp%20PCB%20Partially%20Recapped.JPG



I also got the Control Room PCB recapped (except for one cap I'm waiting for). Here it is. Whoopee. I really have no idea why I'm putting up pictures of recapped PCB's...:o...really. My wife has started doing this really funny (it actually is really funny...I'm not being sarcastic) geeky laugh when I'm working on stuff and taking pictures and stuff...here it is (notice that there is a pot missing between the 2nd and 3rd switchracks...more on that below):
Control%20Room%20PCB%20Partially%20Recapped.JPG



And, yes, to all of you who are most certainly dying to know, I did indeed also replace the capacitor that is a part of that funky resistor medusa on the backside of U3...maybe someday I'll clean that up somehow...socket the resistors on a little riser or something, but for now I'll just make sure that they're only touching each other where they're supposed to...zzzt! :D Okay...actually that's not really funny... :eek:
Control%20Room%20PCB%20U3%20Detail.JPG


AND...The pot missing from the Control Room PCB in the pic above...I repaired it. :) You may recall that it was bent really bad...both upper and lower knob shafts were bent...wow. And I have no spares...how did I do it? Topic for the next post.

Little snapshot of the subject...obviously it is the one with the red arrow pointing to it. This is an effect return level/pan pot on the Control Room PCB, the 3rd of the 4 PCB's in the Control Module...
 

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How to repair bent/broken pot shafts

Okay...so here's the deal...The EFFECT2 return level/pan pot was damaged when I got the mixer right? I tried to straighten the bent shaft of the upper knob. It was bent so bad it didn't have full sweep range. Well if you recall it broke when I tried to straighten it. :mad::(

No spares of that pot...the resistance values are unique of any Teac/Tascam mixers for which I have specs. I do have extra stacked pots though from M-520 spares, so I started thinking "Could I actually frankenstein a pot together? Take the resistive elements and housings from the damaged M-___ pot and retrofit good shafts from another pot? YES I CAN!


Here is the subject on the left, and my previously dismantled stacked pot on the right...You can see the little tabs of the housings bent back...you pry the bottom ones back and the bottom housing comes off. Then you have to carefully drill out the bottom of the long pot shaft (which...and don't get confused here...is the upper knob of the stack, but actuates the bottom pot. Are you with me?) The bottom of the long pot shaft has been punched like a rivet into the wiper. Once you drill it out (and only drill out what you need to drill out to get the wiper off...leave as much of the shaft as possible so there is something to mushroom back into the wiper when installing in the pot being repaired) you can slip the wiper off the shaft end:
Pot%20Shaft%20Transplant%20%231.JPG



Okay...so you get the bottom of the shaft drilled and you get the wiper off...then you have to remove a little snap-ring that is on the bottom of the long pot shaft and once you do that the resistive element and the housing that connects the upper and lower pot housings coomes right off. The snap-ring is soft metal. It gets damaged when taking it off. I was able to reasonably straighten mine out, but if I was doing several of these I'd go to the hardware store and get some proper e-clips (those little e-shapped snap rings) to use when reassembling. If the original snap ring isn't straightened pretty good then it grabs and makes turning the pot yucky feeling, and who knows if little tiny peices of metal might get down into the lower pot housing...ANYWAY...So all that stuff comes off. By this time I realized that it wasn't just the long pot shaft that was bent...so was the shorter brass pot shaft. I figured out how to get that off too. I pried the tabs on the upper pot housing to get the resistive element off, and when I looked inside I could see that you can squeeze the "legs" of the short pot shaft together which unclips it and you can slide it right out the top. The straight one from the parts pot is sitting on the work-surface and you can still see the tabs of the legs in the M-___ pot that I'm holding up. Gently squeeze with needlenose pliers and pull it out:
Pot%20Shaft%20Transplant%20%232.JPG



When putting replacement shafts back in I tried to leave as much of the grease (which looked clean) on them as I'm not sure if I have the right grease on-hand.

Here is the M-___ pot in the foreground with the replacement shafts preliminarily installed. When reinstalling the short shaft you insert it into the pot housing and then gently press the double-wiper from the upper pot onto the legs until it is all the way on. Once it is all the way on you can use a tapered punch of the right size to work the legs back into the right position by just shoving it in between the shaft legs to bend the legs back. Be careful to keep the same orientation of the wipers to the flat spot on the tops of the pot shafts or your knobs will point 180 degrees from where they used to...this probably doesn't make a lot of sense, but it will when you get into it, and I can explain it more if needed for anybody...just post a reply or PM me... Basically the wipers can go on right, or 180 degrees backwards, but the wiper has the stop on it that bumps into the pot housing which keeps the knob from spinning around and around. If the wiper is 180 degrees backward the flat spot on the top of the shafts, which orient the knob cap the right way, will also be 180 degrees off.
Pot%20Shaft%20Transplant%20%233.JPG



By the way, I gently cleaned all conductive surfaces with DeoxIT as I went. Didn't want any stray bits of metal or dirt mucking up the repair job.

So then its just a matter of putting parts back together in the order in which they came apart. Here is a picture of the repaired pot nearly all back together. I left the bottom housing off so you could see inside. If you drill the right amount off the long shaft, it will kind of snap back into the lower wiper...kind of temporarily hold itself. Then you can place the pot upside down with the top of the long shaft on a wooden workbench or wooden block or maybe even on a towel on a countertop or something (anything to keep the top of the long shaft from getting marred and to absorb a little shock) and carefully mushroom the bottom of the long shaft with a hammer. Its aluminum so it doesn't take much just to mush it a little.
Pot%20Shaft%20Transplant%20%234.JPG



Final step: put the bottom housing back on and bend them tabs back into place. I used needlenose pliers to bend the tabs back and a screwdriver to bend them out when I was disassembling.
Pot%20Shaft%20Transplant%20%235.JPG



I tested it. The upper section is rated at 20kohm, the lower at 10kohm and I measure a smooth sweep from 17kohm to 1ohm on the top and 9kohm to 1.5ohm on the bottom. That's good right?

I'm probably going to solder it back in tonight.

Phew! Might seem silly but that has really been plaguing me...what to do about it, so I'm glad it went alright, and it gives me the confidence to do it again if needed, like on the EFFECT1 return level/pan knob which is also bent...not as bad as EFFECT2, but it is possible it will snap like EFFECT2 did.

SO...all 4 Control module PCB's are cleaned, inspected and nearly completely recapped (save for 10 caps total). There are still jacks to clean and inspect, balance amp PCB's to clean, inspect and recap (though these are relatively small jobs), and some final cleanup on wiring...oh and I need to clean the knob and switch caps. But once all that is done its time to reassemble and test. ;)
 
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Got the repaired pot soldered back in last night, and got all the caps removed from both Balance Amp PCB's as well.

Also, one of the two-pin connectors on one of the Balance Amp PCB's had had the wire soldered to the pins rather than using a connector like all the other connectors on those boards... :confused: prototype mixer...:rolleyes: Anyway, I pulled a two-pin connector from spares, cleaned up the pins on the PCB and got the connector on the end of the wires...made it wasier to remove the caps since it didn't have to be connected to the master wiring harness and the Phono Amp and Test OSC PCB's...one of the two wires had broken off anyway, so there you go.

Sheesh I hope the pictures I took of this mess are enough to guide me in how it goes back together...:eek: For some time after I took it apart I could still recognize what went to what...totally have no recollection now, though I can see some that logically go together...okay...phew! I just peeked back at the pictures I took and it'll be totally fine. :rolleyes::o:p:D:cool:
 
Let's hope you don't have a smoking pot once power flows through the thing again....

Ok bad joke.
 
Control Module almost ready to reassemble

SO...all 4 Control module PCB's are cleaned, inspected and nearly completely recapped (save for 10 caps total). There are still jacks to clean and inspect, balance amp PCB's to clean, inspect and recap (though these are relatively small jobs), and some final cleanup on wiring...oh and I need to clean the knob and switch caps. But once all that is done its time to reassemble and test.

Over the past few days here and there I've been pecking away at finishing up prepping the Control Module parts for reassembly.

Referring to the quote above I've completed the following:

  • Jacks cleaned and inspected
  • Balance Amp PCB's cleaned, inspected and caps pulled. The majority of these caps are in that backorder shipment I'm waiting for...11 caps for each PCB, 2 PCB's total.
  • Wiring all cleaned and inspected
  • Knob/switch caps clean and I found replacements for missing or damaged knobs and/or color caps. Had to guess on those two EFFECT return stacks as the color cap was missing on one and the top knob completely gone on the other. I figured they were probably beige as just about every color cap on the board is beige so that's what I put together.

Also, from an earlier post I was anticipating having to straighten and possibly repair the EFFECT1 pot on the Studio PCB which I had recalled was also bent. Well, what a gift, I think I already straightened that one...my memory is fuzzy on that but I think I did that one first and it didn't break, and then I did the Control Room PCB EFFECT2 knob and it snapped. So that takes care of that...it is still a little tweaked but its good enough. I was thinking that it is pretty incredible that one of these pots could take a hit like that (like the one I disassembled and repaired) and the resistive elements are still A-OK (at least according to my multimeter)

So there are still 10 caps to put into 3 of the 4 main Control Module PCB's, and the 22 caps on the Balance Amp PCB's, the master fader cover is still covered with crystalized rodent pee (but the fader is all cleaned up and inspected). Once those caps are in and the fader cover cleaned up it'll be time to take the whole mess, put it back together and then plug it into the frame and see what happens! :eek::D
 
Future Trim Panels

Went up to the sawmill the other day to check out progress on the milled lumber, part of which will become the trim panels for the M-___.

Picture below. This is just the rough cut of course so its kind of hard to see what it will look like, but the wood is really pretty...turns out what we thought was just a 100+ year old english walnut had a graft of black walnut as well. That is making for some pretty interesting grain patterns. The lumber will air-dry outdoors for 3-4 months and then go into the kiln for another month, and then it'll be time to plane it.

Future%20Trim%20Panels.JPG
 
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Dammit Sweetbeats, why are you such a perfectionist? Gotta go and find the most gorgeous wood and flaunt it in our faces, and then say it's not ready, and will be ready in a few months, which makes us know that by then it'll be even MORE gorgeous, at which point you're going to have to keep a box of rags by your mixing desk to clean up drool from visiting clients :mad:
 
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