muttley600
Banned
Oh and epoxy can be reversed with heat. So can titebond but it isn't as reverse friendly... Cascamite can not be undone and neither can contact adhesive. At least not without losing the veneer.
I don't know if that's the sanctioned method, but it worked. I saw someone do it on a YouTube video.
Just shot the back of the body and head. Here's a pic right afterwards.
View attachment 81579
What do you guys think??
Don't paint it!
Oh, dammit!
I'm having a little problem with the clearcoat. I sprayed the sunburst on the head and completely painted the neck. When I went to put on a clearcoat, it lifted the paint; as in bubbled and peeled. I waited a day or so between paint and clearcoat. I suspect the weather is too hot for the lacquer finish. We've been pushing over 100F (37C) everyday.
I sanded it all back and will redo it. This time I am cooling the neck and lacquer can in my office before going to the garage to spray.
It's never too hot for lacquer. The hotter the better.
If the ambient temp and air movement isn't right then the solvents will gas off from the surface too quickly and harden forming a skin which traps the solvent deeper in the coat. This can result in crazing, rippling, peel and....
I'm about the last person who should give advice about finishing, but I always try to do a sample before proceeding with the work piece to avoid these kind of problems. It's cool that it didn't affect the body.
A good way to avoid reactions between different finishing products is to spray a coat of shellac in between them. It will act as a barrier and seal the surface underneath. If you're doing a burst or a fade taking this step will protect the base coat from your clear burning into it, and making it blurry.
Nice Work
When it gets really hot here which isn't very often, I will normally shoot the final coats late at night as thing cool down. Just lately we have had a bit of a heat wave here and even in my conditioned booth it has been getting quite hot. With a rattle can you can immerse them in cold water for a bit to take the edge off and lay up a little thinner than you normally would. On really hot days I will keep the lacquer pot in a fridge until I need it. The work piece should also be cool for that to work.
Moving the work piece out of the booth is not some thing I like to do as it increases the risk of getting contamination on the finish. Clear coats need to be just that to get a truly pristine finish. It maybe be you best bet but make sure that you hoover the area first and once it has settled keep all doors shut for as long as the lacquer needs to gas off to touch dry. Should be hours not days..
I'm assuming that your colour and clear are the same type and brand?
Thanks for confirming my theory on the temp issue.
There was some fine print that said to spray clearcoat on top of the paint within 2 hours or wait 2 days. The 2 hours didn't work, so I'm letting it sit.
Both are lacquer, but not the same brand.
The 2 hours didn't work, so I'm letting it sit.
Oops, I just realized my response is a little too late...