Tascam 38, issues that can be resolved?

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WhinyLittleRunt

WhinyLittleRunt

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A couple of things on this potential unit that I may be picking up....

-RW and FF work fine, play plays fast. Suggested that the belt is in need of changing but why would the play function speed up?
-vu meter lights are out on all but one meter. Bulbs or a global problem?

In overall good shape, parts don't look like they're obscenely expensive but it's just the time and labor... any feedback?
 
What are they asking for it?

Belt problems translate to a slow or unreliable playback speed (unreliable being normal to slower, not faster).

I suspect the playback speed issue is a deeper problem, but is the PITCH CONTROL switched on? There is a PITCH CONTROL knob on control surface that, when pulled out turns on the pitch control. When pushed in the pitch control is defeated. Is this operating correctly (i.e. can you pull the knob to the out possition and then sweep the knob to vary the speed, and then defeat the control by pushing the knob in)?

Sounds like a project deck to me which is fine if you are okay with that and if it is prioced accordingly.

If one lamp is working it is not a problem with the lamp power rail. Likely blown lamps. Less than $8 plus S&H will get you a set of new lamps from Parts Express, but be ready for a project in order to replace them. If the 38 is like my 48 and 58 were, you have to actually desolder the VU meter from its PCB to remove and solder in new lamps.
 
38's are pretty common, I'd recommend you look for one that isn't going to require work (other than perhaps calibration) to get going. If the price is right on this one, you could pick up a "parts deck" which is nice to have if you have the space for it.
 
sweetbeats said:
What are they asking for it?
Click to expand...

$275

I figured that's decent, no? Then again, I don't even think he's testing the unit with tape or a take up reel, so wouldn't the reel spin fast in play mode if nothing is on it?
 
WhinyLittleRunt said:
$275

I figured that's decent, no? Then again, I don't even think he's testing the unit with tape or a take up reel, so wouldn't the reel spin fast in play mode if nothing is on it?
Click to expand...

It's worth checking out 'cause indeed the seller might not know what they're doing and it turns out the 38 works fine or it just need some minor TLC. Just go there, check it yourself and keep your (positive) findings to yourself and (if all's good) offer the guy 200 on an already low price. He'll probably take it. Don't forget to check the heads. You'll get an idea of the amount of hours. If they're really worn bad, so too are the components and it may be costly to repair, relap, replace etc... If the heads (guides and lifters) show little wear, it's worth to investigate further.
 
I actually posted the pic of the heads in my earlier post about the Teac 80-8... I was given the blessing :)

But just to confirm, I don't think he even has the takeup reel for it (I asked him to find it if possible) so whatever he is diagnosing can't be accurate. If he is testing playback with no reel attached, wouldn't the hub spin fast because it has no tension?
 
cjacek's right. $275 isn't bad if it's a working deck. Sure you can put in a few $$$ if it looks to be in good shape, but if it's not been taken care of then I might pass on it or make a lower offer and use as a parts deck like sweets suggested.
 
WhinyLittleRunt said:
I actually posted the pic of the heads in my earlier post about the Teac 80-8... I was given the blessing :)

But just to confirm, I don't think he even has the takeup reel for it (I asked him to find it if possible) so whatever he is diagnosing can't be accurate. If he is testing playback with no reel attached, wouldn't the hub spin fast because it has no tension?
Click to expand...

Yes, there is no way to accurately gauge "Play" if the reels are not mounted (just by looking at the hubs). The reel motors (hubs) will spin fast. Here's a test to do (when you have no reels): Lift up the right tension arm (the capstan motor / shaft should start) and, while holding it up, press "play". The pinch roller should engage and press onto the capstan shaft and it should roll steadily. That's what you should look for when testing play mode. Do the same test with FF / REW and you'll note those functions. There is a way to check without tape, at least if the mechanics work well. I didn't see those heads you posted earlier but if you had blessings from the guys, then that's good enough for me. :)
 
Ohhhhhhkay....I thought you had seen the deck and had a chance to run tape on it.

Yeah. Do what cjacek said. That will tell you if basic things are working. If you can lift and hold up BOTH tension arms and have somebody hit PLAY then you can (like cjacek said) make sure the pinch roller pops smartly to the capstan shaft and that they are then turning. The reel tables should not be turning if the tension arms are all the way up...then slowly lower the left tension arm and the left reel table should start spinning clockwise...let the left tension arm all the way down and the reel table should be humming along nicely. Now start slowly lowering the right tension arm (left tension arm still all the way down) and the right reel table should start spinning counter-clockwise. As you get close to the bottom of the right tension arm's travel it trips the tape end sensor which will put the transport into STOP mode, disengage the pinch roller, shut off the reel motors and apply the brakes. Just see if all that stuff happens and if so that tells you all your solenoids, servo system and motors and capstan belt are good.

Those heads do look pretty decent.

I agree on offering less not being able to test it with tape and the fact that it needs repairs even though the asking price isn't far off for a deck with those heads and assuming everthing else functions.

You can also check and make sure the counter works: while in PLAY mode spin the counter roller by hand (I believe its to the right of the capstan shaft) and watch the numbers change on the counter.

You ALSO can check and make sure the pitch control works by just raising the right tension arm, puling the pitch control knob out and sweep it and listen to the capstan motor speed change.

These two things affirm that those systems are working.

What you WON'T be able to do is to ensure that it records and reproduces without two reels and tape, so offer less since it is untested and as-is.
 
I will do all of that, thanks so much (once again to the rescue!)

He was pretty firm at $275 being the lowest he would go, so well see what happens. It's missing the emblem from the tape cover too, but that's no big deal in the scheme of things. Let's just hope it all works fine with the exception of the bulbs and belt.
 
Honestly do not know. I will be doing mine for first time on my 42 and my M512 mixer.

Corey, Sweetbeats, has much more experience.

Hopefully he will chime in again.
 
Never owned a 38, but it appears from the Exploded Views that it is very similar in construction to the 48. This actually may not be too bad. My apologies as I think I was remembering the experience when replacing the entire meter, not just the lamp. I think you should be able to remove the 4 screws from the meter dress panel and then the meter lenses are just held on by clear tape. Remove the tape and lift the lense free and then see what you've got. I can't remember, but you may be able to desolder the old lamp(s) right from the face. If you have to do it from the back then it gets a little more ugly but certainly not undoable. Anybody have experience with this on a 38?

My 38 manual is missing the schematics so I don't know what type of power the lamps eat, but just be mindful of the polarity of the bulbs as you remove them and reinstall new in the same orientation as the old in case the are powered by a DC rail.
 
I just picked up the 38, with rack sides and some tapes/reels. I gave him 275 as he asked.

The motors all seem good and all things function but the capstan is not turning on it's own. Therefore I couldn't test a tape even if I wanted. When I get it home I will report back after seeing if the belt it toast or gone, because I can spin the capstan manually and it spins freely...

EDIT: Got it apart and found that the belt is indeed gone, but the best part is that it melted all over everything... My other concern is that the gasket around the solenoid on the right is also a little melted away... This reminds me of the foam-turned-goo that was used around sliders on vintage synthesizers... What is the best way to remove this goo? I'm getting it all over everything...
 
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Omni-2. Nice. I have it's cousin the Quadra, kindof a combination of Omni-2 and Solus. I have the SM if you need one.
 
I replaced a VU bulb on a Tascam 32 once. It was a long time ago and I don't remember it being a terrible hassle to get them open. The only problem I had was that it used fuse-type bulbs and I could only get ones with leads. I ended up wrapping the leads around the fuse holder, which worked mostly but would sometimes dim slightly if the machine was knocked...
 
WhinyLittleRunt said:
I just picked up the 38, with rack sides and some tapes/reels. I gave him 275 as he asked.

The motors all seem good and all things function but the capstan is not turning on it's own. Therefore I couldn't test a tape even if I wanted. When I get it home I will report back after seeing if the belt it toast or gone, because I can spin the capstan manually and it spins freely...

EDIT: Got it apart and found that the belt is indeed gone, but the best part is that it melted all over everything... My other concern is that the gasket around the solenoid on the right is also a little melted away... This reminds me of the foam-turned-goo that was used around sliders on vintage synthesizers... What is the best way to remove this goo? I'm getting it all over everything...
Click to expand...

I would say 91+% rubbing alcohol would be your best bet, with LOTS of cotton swabs and make up pads. I had a pinch roller go gooey on me and got all over the face and head block. THAT was some fun... Hopefully it won't be too difficult for you to get the remains of the belt cleaned up. Once you do and get the new belt back on, it should work like a charm. I think the solenoid rubber is strictly for noise dampening when it engages/disengages. I don't think it affects operation or performance.
 
Cool - I remembered earlier that I did in fact use rubbing alcohol to remove the goo foam from the inside of my synth years back, so I was able to get the belt goo off the capstan motor and the other wheel... That was nasty and it's still in my fingernails...

At present writing, I had disassembled the case and did the belt cleanup, removed the front panel/buttons and gave it a bath, same with the rear panel, and wound up some tape and a reel. I was disappointed earlier because I had to waste a roll of tape (literally take the reel apart and dump the tape out; no easy or pretty way around it) but after running the tape I got (from the seller) through the machine, testing ff and rew, that stuff was like glue. I had to help the reel all the way to the end of the tape and then rewind, fast forward again to prove there was nothing wrong with the motor, just sticky tape. What it did do was leave a huge HUGE buildup over that stationary tape guide next to the pinch roller. So obviously that tape is shot, and I sort of figured but I wanted to have it mainly for the take up reels. The guide does seem a bit worn down though from the constant tape on it, but that may be normal, right?

All of the bulbs are out on the VU meters except for #7, so I'm not sure if thats really a global problem or just blown bulbs...

I am ordering the belt tomorrow as well as bulbs if I don't figure anything else out.

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