very small garage studio advice please

[RICK FITZPATRICK]

Maybe you should start educating yourself BEYOND studio.

http://www.fdrs.org/banking_history.html

Only then will you have the underpinnings to make financial desiciions based on truth.

 

[RICK FITZPATRICK]

Check out Auralex and their soundblock sheeting. I used it in by basement applying it over the studs and floor joists above then between 2 layers of 1/2 " wallboard decoupled from the walls and ceiling by a triple layer of "sill seal" foam (available at any home supply outlet) applied to the joists and studs first.

Sill seal? Exactly HOW would this "decouple" the drywall from the studs? Unless you used some kind of adhesive on both the stud and the drywall, as long as you drive screws or nails through the drywall into the studs, you have effectively "coupled" them. If anything the only thing this sill seal does is dampen the drywalll at the studs ONLY. And maybe SEAL each wall cavity from each other, but something tells me an inspector would NOT approve this "sill seal" as you used it, because of FIRE codes. However, I could be wrong about that.
fitZ

 

[RICK FITZPATRICK]

Then hang your drywall with GG. You will want to connect the top plate of these walls with clips to the joists.

Hello John. Say, are those "clips" in the photo a "resiliant isolator" (RSIC)type clip? I can't tell from the photo. See one below tied directly to a block wall.
However, if they are simply "ties"(which some local codes may require), these would NOT decouple the framing from the block wall NOR the roof. Direct structural transmission can occur from this type of connection. The best way is to build whats known as a "decoupled anti-sway brackets", OR use "resiliant Isolators" (RSIC)of a type designed for this application.
Another thing. I've never heard anyone use GG to attach drywall to framing. I could be wrong, but I don't think it was designed for that application, nor would it be code compliant. If you use RSIC to decouple the framing from the exterior shell, then you don't need to decouple the drywall from the framing. Below is a drawing by Knightfly, illustrating an "anti-sway bracket on TWO partition walls, but the idea is the same for an interior leaf assemby.
fitZ

 

[John Hile]

Hello John. Say, are those "clips" in the photo a "resiliant isolator" (RSIC)type clip? I can't tell from the photo. See one below tied directly to a block wall.
However, if they are simply "ties"(which some local codes may require), these would NOT decouple the framing from the block wall NOR the roof. Direct structural transmission can occur from this type of connection. The best way is to build whats known as a "decoupled anti-sway brackets", OR use "resiliant Isolators" (RSIC)of a type designed for this application.
Another thing. I've never heard anyone use GG to attach drywall to framing. I could be wrong, but I don't think it was designed for that application, nor would it be code compliant. If you use RSIC to decouple the framing from the exterior shell, then you don't need to decouple the drywall from the framing. Below is a drawing by Knightfly, illustrating an "anti-sway bracket on TWO partition walls, but the idea is the same for an interior leaf assemby.
fitZ

Hi Fitz,

You are correct, That is an RSIV DC04 Clip in the Pic I posted. The same one it looks like you posted. The Knightfly drawing is a very good illustration.

Correct again on GG. Green Glue is not to be used as an adhesive, one would have to hang all the drywall according to local building codes. It doesn't help to put GG on the studs for any purpose. GG is damping (diminishing energy over time and distance) and therefor not enough room for GG to do its job

And good point: You only have to decouple once.

Auralex soundblock sheeting (Is this like MLV?) It would be cool to see some TL test reports. That always helps.

Take care.

John

 

[joolzsmith]

Rick. I'm sorry you appear to have taken some exception to my last post. OK, i don't own the house yet... but everything is proceeding to completion in just over one month, and I am definitely going to be building this garage studio and will be taking yours and John's advice. I am being sensible and planning this carefully. That I have started planning before I own the house (and garage) is about being organised and well-planned, and nothing to do with dreaming. I am in a lucky position of haveing already sold my last house, the money is in the bank and I'm ready to pay cash for this next house. Yes, I accept something can go wrong and maybe it wont happen. But I already have a full structural survey in my hands, the cash in the bank and the vendor is keen to proceed quickly.. so it is just a matter for the legal guys to complete the transaction .. I give it about a 99% certainty.
I'll keep you informed once it all gets going and I have some progress to show you!
All the best
Jules

 

[RICK FITZPATRICK]

I am in a lucky position of haveing already sold my last house, the money is in the bank and I'm ready to pay cash for this next house. Yes, I accept something can go wrong and maybe it wont happen. But I already have a full structural survey in my hands, the cash in the bank and the vendor is keen to proceed quickly.. so it is just a matter for the legal guys to complete the transaction .. I give it about a 99% certainty.
I'll keep you informed once it all gets going and I have some progress to show you!

Kudos to you then. I'm here if you need further help

 

[RICK FITZPATRICK]

But I already have a full structural survey in my hands

Exactly, what does it tell you in relation to the question at hand? Can you post the survey? In feet and inches.

 

[joolzsmith]

Rick. Sadly, in this case because the garage is of prefabricated construction and was only erected some 3-4 years ago, it was not included in the structural survey. (In the UK these surveys are used primarily by mortgage lenders to assess the risk on a property in terms of things like damp, dry rot, likelihood to suffering flooding and subsidence, access rights to or across property boundaries etc.). In terms of relevant detail all i have to go on at present are my own internal measurings, which are 9 foot wide x 12 foot 2inches long with a useable height of seven feet. This is what space I will have within which I will need to construct my studio inner - hence the need to keep wall thickness to the bare minimum.
Thanks for your offer of more help later if I need it. As I said before, regardless, I'll get back here and let you know how it goes!
Joolz

 

[Gedidrum]

Similar build...thanks.

Hi Joolz/John/Rick. I am mid-build now on a very similar size (ok, identical but for a few inches) stand-alone room in my garden and have been searching on this site for about a month to find the relevant info...and today I find this thread! It has answered most of my nagging worries and is relevant based upon size and the lack of it, so, don't wanna hijack your thread...I'll start a new one if need be (no longer building with sand-walls!) as I have to have...GLASS! ...just wanted to say thanks by default. Good luck Joolz with your build, look forward to reading your progress, if you get any time! Ged

 

[RICK FITZPATRICK]

as I have to have...GLASS!

Glass walls? Care to explain?
fitZ

 

[Jaredq]

Looking over this thread I was curious on how you would go about applying the drywall to the ceiling? Wouldn't you loose your decoupling isolation by screwing it straight to the ceiling joists?

How did you get the drywall to cover the bulging clips on the wall?

 

[MachineGunMace]

hey.

just insulate it. then drywall it. then auralex the fuck out of it. this will save you time. possibly money also.

 

[John Hile]

Looking over this thread I was curious on how you would go about applying the drywall to the ceiling? Wouldn't you loose your decoupling isolation by screwing it straight to the ceiling joists?

How did you get the drywall to cover the bulging clips on the wall?

Hi Jaredq,

You are correct that if you screw the drywall right into the joist that it will couple the system.

You will want to use Clips and Hat Channel, and attach the Drywall to that. (Not just clips alone.)

The following assembly is a tried and true way to decouple and make a great performing ceiling.

Joist (with insulation in the cavity) > Clips > Hat Channel > Drywall > Damping (such as Green Glue) > Drywall

Sorry to say that MachineGunMace's approach simply will not work well at all for good sound isolation. Auralex makes a number of different products with a majority of them being in room acoustic treatments. These products are designed to help control the room's sound quality, reflections and NC value but do nothing to "stop" sound. sound will still go through these products and resonate your panels and into your structure.

Are you attempting to keep sound from getting out of your room or from footfall and other exterior sound getting in to your room. In either case using the 4 basic elements of Sound Isolation of Mass, Absorption, Decoupling, and Damping are key to achieving a successful performing sound isolation project.

I hope this helped.

John