Tuning pegs

acidrock

acidrock

GO PACKERS!
I want ti change the tuning pegs on an Ibanez guitar,3l/3r setup.Sounds simple enough,anything I should know before I go ahead and do it?
 
First question. Why?

Second question/statement, it all depends on whats coming out and whats going in. Without that info everybody is guessing.
 
I want ti change the tuning pegs on an Ibanez guitar,3l/3r setup.Sounds simple enough,anything I should know before I go ahead and do it?
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Make sure the tuners you buy will fit the tuner holes. And also, even cheap tuners will hold a guitar in tune well enough. If you are changing them because you think they are the culprit in a guitar that always seems to go out of tune, it is much more likely that the bridge and/or nut is the real culprit. And if the tuners are so bad that they really do slip out of tune, I think you'd be better off buying a new guitar. :D
 
It's an Ibanez Jet King I and I'm changing them cause they're plastic and I don't like them.I changed the volume/tone knobs to metal and now every time I look at the guitar the tuners drive me nuts.

I was assuming the size was standard and the only real variation I've noticed in the online ads is the gear ratio.I'm really just asking because I don't want to find out there's something important I should've known after the fact.:D
 
acidrock said:
It's an Ibanez Jet King I and I'm changing them cause they're plastic and I don't like them.I changed the volume/tone knobs to metal and now every time I look at the guitar the tuners drive me nuts.

I was assuming the size was standard and the only real variation I've noticed in the online ads is the gear ratio.I'm really just asking because I don't want to find out there's something important I should've known after the fact.:D
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First no they are not all the same. Far from it.

I'd recommend you take one off and measure you're hole sizes and centre locations then browse around here for an idea of what might work for you. As you probably recall I only recommend Gotoh 510's but you can probably find a set to match.

If you choose a set that needs bushing adapters or plugging and re drilling report back. That Hosco link is pretty much what all us builders from the smallest to the very biggest work from. Take you time.;)
 
Thanks Mutt,fwiw I never work on my guitars other than changing strings,but changing tuners seems pretty straight up.:D
 
If it makes it any easier, Schaller tuners will usually fit right onto Ibanez headstocks. I'm not 100% sure but I think Ibanez stock tuners are made to Schaller specs. I might be wrong about that but I've installed Schallers on a couple of Ibanez guitars and they fit like they were made to fit exactly, even the little screw on the back mount should line up with the original holes. I wont dispute any of the luthiers on here about there being better quality tuners, just saying Schaller tuners are easy to install on Ibanez guitars.
 
I paid a shop in New Mexico to toss on some sperzels once and the dewd drilled from the back and splintered a bit of wood on the face.

so as someone suggested, get same diameter," plug n plays", if you don't do much woodwork and drilling for large tuning pegs.

1 cent...
 
They have a locking mechanism that will keep them from slipping at the tuners...you have to fine tune alot less onstage between tunes...you can even put in a floyd and not need to install a locking nut with them.
 
darrin_h2000 said:
They have a locking mechanism that will keep them from slipping at the tuners...you have to fine tune alot less onstage between tunes...you can even put in a floyd and not need to install a locking nut with them.
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Stop what slipping at the tuners? My guitars don't need tuning at all once I bring them to pitch on stage once they have settled into the environment.

I should quit now.
 
darrin_h2000 said:
They have a locking mechanism that will keep them from slipping at the tuners...you have to fine tune alot less onstage between tunes...you can even put in a floyd and not need to install a locking nut with them.
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What slipping are you talking about? A clocked worm and pinion assembly (even a cheap one) cannot slip, i.e., no matter how much torque you apply to the peg on a tuner, you cannot force the knob/handle to turn. A locking nut stops the string from sliding back and forth through the nut and has nothing to do with the tuners.
 
ggunn said:
What slipping are you talking about? A clocked worm and pinion assembly (even a cheap one) cannot slip, i.e., no matter how much torque you apply to the peg on a tuner, you cannot force the knob/handle to turn. A locking nut stops the string from sliding back and forth through the nut and has nothing to do with the tuners.
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I have to agree 100%, the machine part of a tuner will not slip, not even on the super cheapo open back ones. If the hole in the post is badly worn or the bevel is cut too wide a string might slip but the machine will stay exactly where you put it. Gear ratios can vary, the precision of the parts can vary, but the design concept and the physics are the same on all tuners.
 
ggunn said:
What slipping are you talking about? A clocked worm and pinion assembly (even a cheap one) cannot slip, i.e., no matter how much torque you apply to the peg on a tuner, you cannot force the knob/handle to turn. A locking nut stops the string from sliding back and forth through the nut and has nothing to do with the tuners.
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Correct......
 
ggunn said:
What slipping are you talking about? A clocked worm and pinion assembly (even a cheap one) cannot slip, i.e., no matter how much torque you apply to the peg on a tuner, you cannot force the knob/handle to turn. A locking nut stops the string from sliding back and forth through the nut and has nothing to do with the tuners.
Click to expand...

Its really the same thing a locking nut does....only its in the tuner...it works.
 
If you do change tuning pegs keep the old ones so as if and when you sell the guitar put the originals back on. Keeps the guitar factory and you keep the good pegs for an other project.
 
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