tsr-8 Repair or Replace crisis

  • Thread starter Thread starter Ding Dong
  • Start date Start date
I'd also recommend not using the q-tips but rather the lint free makup remover cotton pads you see at just about any store. Use those, with better than 90% alcohol (I use 99%) and go over the heads and every other area the tape contacts, except the rubber pinch roller, on which you should not use the alcohol. Instead, just take a clean lint free cloth (like microfibre), moisten it with warm water (drain excess) and clean the pinch roller with it, until all you see is the dark rubber. Remember to drain all excess alcohol and water from the pads / cloth before applying and make sure no lint is left over and that the tape path is dry. Clean the heads in the direction of tape travel and until all of the above are sparkling clean. One needs to be very good at routine cleaning (after every recording session is a good standby).
 
Success!

YES! I am very happy right now.
I bought a roll of RMG sm900 (the only new tape i could find locally) cleaned the heads very thoughly with 91% alchohol and cotton pads and now recording sounds as good as the day I bought it! I was going to replace my machine, but the great advice i've gotten from this forum saved me. Thank you all very much... :p

I have a few more questions about minor fix-ups.
First, does a TSR-8 ever need to get the heads re-lapped or is that just something that is done with pro machines?
Also, does anyone know if tascam will sell you just the rubber parts of the pinch roller and the counter roller, or do I have to spring for the whole assembley?
My take-up reel makes a clicking sound. this seems to be a common problem. Does anyone know if It's serious or how to fix it?
Are the makeup removal pads you mentioned the little soft rubber-like white triangle things? I spent a little too long wandering around the femanine-hygeine section of longs drugs looking for the right ones, and settled on the cotton pads, which weren't lint-free.

thanks so much... i don't know what i'd do without this forum... probobly end up using pro tools.... :D
 
Nice to hear the great news!

Yeah, any head can be relapped.

The pinch roller and counter roller have to be purchased as the entire wheel, not just the rubber. It's easy enough... just unscrew the aluminum caps counter clockwise by hand and pull the pinch roller and counter wheel straight out and off

***WARNING***

Be careful when you unscrew the caps. There are tiny black washers that will fall off, and they are hell to find, even with your wife and two children crawling around on the floor with you looking for them. :D Oh yeah, and there is also a small spring under the cap of the counter wheel on some models.

Does your take-up reel click at both play and fast wind speeds. It might be rubbing on the front panel. Does it wobble or vibrate at fast wind?
 
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Ding Dong said:
Are the makeup removal pads you mentioned the little soft rubber-like white triangle things? I spent a little too long wandering around the femanine-hygeine section of longs drugs looking for the right ones, and settled on the cotton pads, which weren't lint-free.
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First off, CONGRATULATIONS on bringing your recorder to life! :)

No, they're not those rubber triangle thingies (don't ask how I know) but rather those round 100% cotton pads for makup removal. I think what you bought is fine but make sure there is no lint on the tape path afterward and that everything is dry. Hehe, isn't it somethin' wondering around those feminine hygiene products? :eek: :D ;)
 
Beck said:
What Dave said... fuses?
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Hey - first time poster here. I joined because I was trying to find out information about replacing the fuses (and worst case scenario, the motor) in my tsr-8 which worked beautifully for a few years before dying when it was left on (not running, just on, but i understand the motor is always turning when it's on) for 2 days.

Can someone tell me any more about what kind of fuses i would need to pick up? I'm not by the machine right now and ideally would like to try to replace the fuses at the same time as i'm going to the bother of taking the cover off to figure out what kind of fuses etc. :)

thanks
 
bitlandscaperer said:
Hey - first time poster here. I joined because I was trying to find out information about replacing the fuses (and worst case scenario, the motor) in my tsr-8 which worked beautifully for a few years before dying when it was left on (not running, just on, but i understand the motor is always turning when it's on) for 2 days.

Can someone tell me any more about what kind of fuses i would need to pick up? I'm not by the machine right now and ideally would like to try to replace the fuses at the same time as i'm going to the bother of taking the cover off to figure out what kind of fuses etc. :)

thanks
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I would check the capstan drive belt first. :)
 
I certainly will, but will be passing by a hardware store on my way home and would pick up a couple of cheap fuses on the way (useful or not) if I knew what I were getting.

Also I think I checked the capstan belt when this happened (about a year ago), although I'm really not sure.
 
The capstan motor turns for as long as the right-hand tension arm is engaged. If you manually push it up, the motor should engage. I would still check the capstan belt, though.
 
Checked the fuses on the top by the transformer; they look fine. just found a small enough allen wrench to take the face off - i took the thing most of the way apart but found i couldn't actually access the capstan belt without taking off the face. unless i'm a moron?
 
bitlandscaperer said:
Checked the fuses on the top by the transformer; they look fine. just found a small enough allen wrench to take the face off - i took the thing most of the way apart but found i couldn't actually access the capstan belt without taking off the face. unless i'm a moron?
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When the front panel is off, it will look something like this:
https://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k216/tapewolf/tape/tsr8_naked.png
Note the pinch roller and the tach roller (they would normally be removed to take the face off, in the photo I put them back on as an experiment). Above and below each one there are two screws which are holding that entire assembly in place.

If I remember correctly - and I may be thinking of the Tascam 32 - removing these four screws and lifting out the assembly will provide access to the capstan belt.
 
thanks for all the help; you guys are awesome... more info.

what's happening turns out to be this:
ffwd, rewind, levels are all fine.
but i hit play and the thing shudders and goes nowhere.
if i manually engage the tape pressure arms (whatever they're called) the output reel spins the wrong way. however, it does that when i hit rewind and ffwd too, so that may just be missing feedback to the circuitry that drives the take up reels? seems likely but i'm no expert.

the capstan belt appears to be on just fine, from what i can see by taking the face off... i mean it's not off of the drive wheel or the larger wheel actually driving the capstan. is there another way it could be wrong?

the fuses for the takeup reels are fine, but i don't know where the fuses for the capstan motor are (unless all the fuses are in the same place on the top?).

Any help so appreciated.
 
bitlandscaperer said:
thanks for all the help; you guys are if i manually engage the tape pressure arms (whatever they're called) the output reel spins the wrong way. however, it does that when i hit rewind and ffwd too, so that may just be missing feedback to the circuitry that drives the take up reels? seems likely but i'm no expert.
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It's to maintain tape tension. This is normal.

The question is the capstan. I'm not completely clear from what you've said, but you're implying that the capstan itself is not turning. Is that the case? Out of interest, does grabbing the capstan and trying to turn it manually work? (I've never heard of them seizing up, but it has to be tried)

the capstan belt appears to be on just fine, from what i can see by taking the face off... i mean it's not off of the drive wheel or the larger wheel actually driving the capstan. is there another way it could be wrong?
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Firstly, is the capstan turning? If it isn't, that's the problem. It could still be the belt if it's tight enough to stay on but loose enough to slip. To find out, you'd have to take the faceplate off, and power the machine up. The capstan pulley is visible with just the front panel removed, and you can test it by pushing the tension roller arm up as before. If it spins and the capstan does not, it is almost certainly the belt. You've already checked the microswitch above, so if it does not spin, it is either the fuse, the motor itself or the controller.

If the capstan is turning but it won't play, check to make sure that the tach roller on the left is working. If you're able to fast-forward and rewind tape, it probably is. But anyway, check that the counter is changing if the tape is fast-wound. Alternatively, engage the tension arm and spin the roller rapidly by hand - a quick flick should work - the counter should change, but note that it will only do this when the right tension arm is engaged (i.e. when the system thinks tape is present)

the fuses for the takeup reels are fine, but i don't know where the fuses for the capstan motor are (unless all the fuses are in the same place on the top?). Any help so appreciated.
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There are four fuses. The service guide doesn't elaborate on what they do. I do know there is a separate one for the audio subsystem. I don't know if the capstan and reel motors have separate fuses.

Did you visually inspect them or do a continuity test?
 
jpmorris said:
It's to maintain tape tension. This is normal.
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yeah, that's what i assumed.

The question is the capstan. I'm not completely clear from what you've said, but you're implying that the capstan itself is not turning. Is that the case? Out of interest, does grabbing the capstan and trying to turn it manually work? (I've never heard of them seizing up, but it has to be tried)
Click to expand...

right, capstan is not turning. yes, it turns freely if i reach in and spin it.

Firstly, is the capstan turning? If it isn't, that's the problem. It could still be the belt if it's tight enough to stay on but loose enough to slip. To find out, you'd have to take the faceplate off, and power the machine up. The capstan pulley is visible with just the front panel removed, and you can test it by pushing the tension roller arm up as before. If it spins and the capstan does not, it is almost certainly the belt. You've already checked the microswitch above, so if it does not spin, it is either the fuse, the motor itself or the controller.
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sorry, microswitch? what's that?
i will try this test when i get home; good idea.

If the capstan is turning but it won't play, check to make sure that the tach roller on the left is working. If you're able to fast-forward and rewind tape, it probably is. But anyway, check that the counter is changing if the tape is fast-wound. Alternatively, engage the tension arm and spin the roller rapidly by hand - a quick flick should work - the counter should change, but note that it will only do this when the right tension arm is engaged (i.e. when the system thinks tape is present)
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yeah the counter works fine for ffwd and rew. i'll double check the other thing you suggest.

There are four fuses. The service guide doesn't elaborate on what they do. I do know there is a separate one for the audio subsystem. I don't know if the capstan and reel motors have separate fuses.

Did you visually inspect them or do a continuity test?
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just a quick visual inspection; they looked fine. not the greatest i know.
 
just a quick visual inspection; they looked fine. not the greatest i know.
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bitlandscaperer,

I can tell you know you are compromising with relying on a visual inspection for those fuses...To be honest, I always use a multi-meter to test fuses for continuity because I've been suprised too many times.

Just suggesting you don't leave that out of the realm of possibility. And even beyond that I'd check the fuse, and then snap the fuse in the holder and check for continuity between the poles of the holder because sometimes the holder itself may be the problem...
 
As an electrician, I must add that you can NEVER assume a fuse is good by looking at it. They don't always blow/look black. Sometimes the element slightly cracks almost invisibly at an on/off power cycle when it gets old and won't pass current. Looks fine but won't work...
 
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