Take a good long look fellas...this is the Capstan Servo PCB out of the 58, and hopefully it is the only time you have to see one because it was a PITA to get out of the deck.

The Interface, Control and Fuse PCB's have to be removed or moved out of the way as does the transformer (so you can remove the Interface PCB mount brackets) in order to get it out, and then it is almost impossible to get to the top two of 4 screws that hold the Capstan PCB to its mount...then three of the screws drop down into the cardbay because you can't get your hand in there with the screwdriver tip...it would be a whole lot easier if the deck was on its face. It would be
great to do this work with it mounted in the CS-607 rack but the side panels have to be off to remove and reinstall the PSU PCB. I'll have to see if I can find a way to safely block it up when I go to put the Capstan PCB back in. It would be easier to access if the entire transformer shelf was removed but that runs full width...wasn't going there.
Anyway, here it is:
Its interesting...this PCB is much less sophisticated and tidy. The foil side appearance and finish is exactly like the PCB's in the M-___ mixer. Not bad or anything but the solder pads are tiny.
I'm trying to determine if the electrolytics are a special tolerance. I've never seen these light grey ones before. I'll do some research, but do they look familiar to anybody? I think the script says Rubicon. Hard to read.
This is interesting because there is no parts list or PCB layout in the 58 manual for this PCB, and the schematic is subheaded "For Graphical Purposes Only".

Maybe they thought nobody would be stupid enough to pull one anyway...well, that
clearly has not stopped me in the past.
So anyway, I got the caps pulled from it and filled in the blanks on the schematic for several missing values (several of the caps on the schematic have no voltage spec...)
I also pulled the reel motors out last night and replaced the single bi-polar cap on the internal connector PCB of each motor. Found I had the takeup motor put together a little incorrectly...didn't have the concave thrust washers installed in the nose cap correctly. They should make an hourglass shape. This goes for probably just about any Teac/
Tascam reel motor in this era...there is a flat brass thrust washer that goes in the tail cap, and two slightly conical black thrust washers that go in the nose cap...you put the tops of the "cones" together to make that flattened hourglass shape and that's how they go into the nose cap so there is constant pressure on the shaft bearings holding it axially in place firmly. If they are in wrong the motor operates fine but is noisy. Also noticed that the slots in between the commutator pads were a little packed with brush dust so I cleaned that up. Again, I've said this somewhere in the past, but it is worthwhile to make note of the orientation of the brushes when you take them out. If you put one back in upside down it has to "break-in" to the new position which decrease conductivity until it is worn to the new position, and that wear packs conductive residue in the commutator slots which also effects efficiency. Just put the thing back together the way it came apart. I believe I hadn't learned that when I last took this motor apart which is why it is already dirty inside and why the nose thrust washers were in wrong. You too can easily service your own reel motors, even replace the bearings.
Here is a picture of the back of the 58 at present. It looks like a horrible mess but it is actually coming along nicely.