Tascam 388 Weird Whirring Noise

[babecityrecords]

Hi, up until tonight my tascam 388 has worked perfectly.
But for some reason, today, when recording it started making this weird whirring noise.
Has anyone experience this / know how to fix it?

I uploaded two video examples here:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1wtFHmI9_AYswSpST6d14biKptxNdkVwY/view?usp=share_link

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1oroVbhJf2Ca_CH-07oVZw_O8NUc_Gvvy/view?usp=share_link

Thanks so much!

 

[sweetbeats]

Take the tape off and raise the right tension arm. Does the noise occur when the capstan spins up without anything touching the capstan shaft?

 

[babecityrecords]

Yeah it does. Kinda goes randomly on and off, but once it starts it doesn't go away.
Here's a photo of the exact piece making the noise.
Thanks so much for your help. Is this a cleaning / needing oil issue? I've never oiled before..

This silver thing is spinning always once the tascam is on (is that normal?), and when i press on it during the noise, it can sometimes make it stop.. weird!

 

[sweetbeats]

That silver thing is the capstan shaft. It is what drives the tape in PLAY mode. All of the 388s I’ve owned the capstan didn’t spin up until tape was loaded by virtue of the takeup tension arm being raised. But many tape machines in general have a constant running capstan shaft…maybe it’s 50/50. Maybe your 388 is a later or earlier generation than any I’ve owned and the capstan operation is different by design. Out of curiosity does your 388 have cooling slots in the cardbay cover behind the meters, or is it a solid panel?

Anyway, I suppose it’s possible with a constant running capstan shaft and if your 388 has had a lot of up time in it’s service life the bronze oilite bearing in the capstan housing is dry. There are no instructions for lubricating the capstan shaft. Bronze oilite is a porous metal and the sleeve bearing is impregnated with oil when manufactured, and is designed to lubricate for the life of the device, but, again, with your constant running capstan and depending on how many hours your 388 has been powered up maybe the bronze is dry. The correct oil to use is a highly refined light machine oil that can be found under the name Turbine Oil. Google it. Or you can probably get it on Amazon or whatever. You want to apply just enough to resolve the issue if lack of lubrication is the cause of the noise. If you can, apply a drop to the top of the bearing where the capstan shaft goes into it’s bearing assembly. You might need to remove the escutcheon that surrounds the head assembly to get to it. I can’t remember. Ideally, and if it was me, I’d be removing the capstan shaft from the bearing assembly, cleaning the shaft and the bore, and applying a light coat of oil to the entire surface of the shaft that rests inside the bearing, but you have to remove the bottom cover, belt, thrust bearing bracket, etc. to do that and I don’t know if you’re comfortable with that or not. Ultimately that may be necessary. But for starters you can try and apply a drop at the top of the bearing and run it and see if that helps.

 

[babecityrecords]

Hey Sweetbeats,

Thanks so much for this. I really, really, appreciate your insight and advice.
I bought this oil (ebay link) which I read on reddit is the right oil for the Tascam 388. Does that look right to you?

And your right, I took the tape off and the capstan stopped spinning. But it is doing it's job.. just not with the loud squealing.

And I have a few questions on applying the oil. Can you by any chance take the picture above and draw an arrow on it of where to apply the oil exactly? I just want to make sure I'm applying it to the right place. Basically, the oil should be applied at the bottom of visible metal shaft (the capstan shaft) I pointed to in yellow highlight-- is that correct?

And hypothetically, if doesn't work and I need to do it your ideal way, with removing the capstan shaft from the bearing assembly, I would A) turn the tascam upside down and remove the back panel then B) take apart the bearing assembly (pointed to in yellow in this new photo attached) and apply oil somehow in that thing?

Thanks again SO SO much! I feel like everyone has been giving me a different answer without any real insight.. appreciate it.

 

[sweetbeats]

Regarding the oil, I can’t say if what you bought is the “right” oil. They don’t go into any detail as the the lubricant’s properties, just that it is synthetic, which really doesn’t matter in this case, and that it has friction modifiers. The latter may be moly or something else I don’t know. So you bought it, use it if you want, others apparently say it’s “right” but who knows. What I do know is it’s not what I suggested, and if it was me I’d use what was suggested. You can get Turbine Oil in a Zoom Spout Oiler for about the same price you paid. Google “Turbine Oil Zoom Spout Oiler.” I’m not saying you have to do that, I’m just telling you my opinion and what I’d do.

To apply oil to the top of the capstan shaft you’ll have to remove the plastic escutcheon that surrounds the headblock assembly, etc. The pinch roller has to be removed to do this. Once the roller is off, I think it’s is just a few screws and you can remove the escutcheon. I can’t recall if you have to remove the headblock assembly as well, but it is removed in the picture below. You can see the exposed base of the capstan shaft:



Here is another picture zoomed in…note the entire dress panel is removed in this picture. It’s not necessary to remove the dress panel:



I can’t recall if the black ring at the base of the shaft is just a slip fit dust seal or what. You can try to slide it up to expose the whole outer flange if the bronze bearing, or just place the drop of oil at the joint between the black ring and the capstan shaft. It’s much better to apply the oil directly to the joint between the shaft and the bronze bearing. Once you have a chance to apply the oil and run the machine to determine if the application helped, clean up any surface oil with 91% or better iso alcohol, denatured alcohol, or something similar.

Your picture with the yellow arrow…that’s not the capstan assembly. That’s the capstan motor.

In the picture below the red arrow is pointing the to the capstan assembly, and specifically the thrust bearing bracket:



Remove the bracket, remove the belt, gently and carefully slide the capstan assembly out of the bearing assembly.

 

[babecityrecords]

Well, Sweetbeats, it continues. I appreciate all your help. I finally had the time today to try to apply the oil.
I tried using oil at the base of the capstan under it's little rubber stopper and it didn't change the outcome.

Here are photos of where I applied the oil on the capstan (keep in mind, I didn't have enough hands to photo me applying the oil under that little rubber circle on the capstan where it meets the shaft, but I applied it under that little rubber circle in the second photo as you advised). I put a few drops and wiped up the excess around that black rubber with isopropl alcohol at 91%.

I tried recording again and the noise stopped for about 10 minutes and then started up again.

Though, I realized the noise was happening when the pinch roller and capstan weren't touching, which makes me think now I can rule out the pinch roller, because this also happened today -- the noise continued when the capstan wasn't touching the pinch roller. Check out that short video. I uploaded a longer video too but the short one captures what I'm referencing well.

Does this mean it's not a pinch roller tire / pinch roller issue, but definitely a capstan thing?
Because the noise occurs when the pinch roller and capstan aren't touching, can I safely rule out the pinch roller / pinch roller tire? I have a new pinch roller tire too but I feel like it would be pointless to change it out.

I'd think this means makes me think the issue is the capstan. Specifically, because the capstan motor works --(it's running when tape is loaded and tascam is on).
So, what do you think my next step / trial should be? Should I should try your plan B advice?

For ease, you said if oil from the top didn't work to do this as a Plan B: "Ideally, and if it was me, I’d be removing the capstan shaft from the bearing assembly, cleaning the shaft and the bore, and applying a light coat of oil to the entire surface of the shaft that rests inside the bearing, but you have to remove the bottom cover, belt, thrust bearing bracket, etc. to do that and I don’t know if you’re comfortable with that or not."

Should I also change the capstan rubber belt (I bought one early on from ebay) from taking off the back of the machine and replacing there if I already have it exposed?
I have a new rubber tire for the pinch roller too -- is it worth changing that too or no need?
Is there anything else I should try?

And lastly, once I remove the capstan shaft from the bearing assembly, am I just applying the light coat of oil to freaking everything in that capstan motor? Is that easy to break or you think it will be not too hard for a first timer?

Again, thanks so much for helping me through this tascam 388 journey. It's been very stressful, but a little fun too.
Thank you!

 

[sweetbeats]

Here are photos of where I applied the oil on the capstan (keep in mind, I didn't have enough hands to photo me applying the oil under that little rubber circle on the capstan where it meets the shaft, but I applied it under that little rubber circle in the second photo as you advised). I put a few drops and wiped up the excess around that black rubber with isopropl alcohol at 91%.

Were you able to slide the black washer up, or are you saying you applied oil to the joint between the black washer and the bronze bushing? The goal is to get the oil down the bore of the bronze bushing through which the capstan passes. If you applied oil to where the black washer meets the bronze that’s not really going to help. I advised you to see if the black washer can be slid upward so you could access the joint between the shaft and the bushing, and if you couldn’t do that to just apply the oil to the joint between the black washer and the shaft. In the picture it looks like you are just oiling the edge of the washer and the face of the bushing.

Though, I realized the noise was happening when the pinch roller and capstan weren't touching, which makes me think now I can rule out the pinch roller, because this also happened today -- the noise continued when the capstan wasn't touching the pinch roller. Check out that short video. I uploaded a longer video too but the short one captures what I'm referencing well.

I don’t think I need to see the video. Correct. If the noise happens when the pinch roller is static, it’s not the pinch roller.

I'd think this means makes me think the issue is the capstan. Specifically, because the capstan motor works --(it's running when tape is loaded and tascam is on).

So, what do you think my next step / trial should be? Should I should try your plan B advice?

I think first we need to verify you followed my instructions for “plan A” as above. If you did, then yes, plan B is the next step as advised.

Should I also change the capstan rubber belt (I bought one early on from ebay) from taking off the back of the machine and replacing there if I already have it exposed?

I have a new rubber tire for the pinch roller too -- is it worth changing that too or no need?

Is there anything else I should try?

I don’t know how to answer these questions without knowing the condition of your current capstan belt and pinch roller. Also, are you saying for the pinch roller you only bought a replacement rubber tire, not the whole assembly? What did you buy?

And lastly, once I remove the capstan shaft from the bearing assembly, am I just applying the light coat of oil to freaking everything in that capstan motor?

Let’s make sure you are 200% clear on something: you do NOT oil the capstan motor. You do nothing to the capstan motor. Everything we are taking about applies to the capstan shaft. Don’t mess with the motor. You clean out the bearing bore with dry cotton swabs, use an air duster when done to blow out any lint or loose debris, and clean the shaft with a lint-free rag and iso alcohol. Then you ONLY need to apply oil *lightly* to the part of the shaft that is in the bearing bore when it’s assembled. In my last post I said to apply a drop at the top. It sounds like you applied several. The details I’m offering are important.

Is that easy to break or you think it will be not too hard for a first timer?

It’s not delicate or anything but of course you want to take care; it’s a precision assembly. It shouldn’t be hard, but to be honest I am concerned you’re not following what I’m telling you to do, so it’s hard for me to know how it’s going to go for you specifically. That’s not intended to offend, but you asked, and I’m being honest.

 

[babecityrecords]

Thank you again for your continued help, transparency, and patience.
I'll go in order of your responses and in red for my response.

"Were you able to slide the black washer up, or are you saying you applied oil to the joint between the black washer and the bronze bushing? The goal is to get the oil down the bore of the bronze bushing through which the capstan passes. If you applied oil to where the black washer meets the bronze that’s not really going to help. I advised you to see if the black washer can be slid upward so you could access the joint between the shaft and the bushing, and if you couldn’t do that to just apply the oil to the joint between the black washer and the shaft. In the picture it looks like you are just oiling the edge of the washer and the face of the bushing."

First, I did apply the oil under the black washer, that photo was just all I could get with using one hand. You can ignore where the needle is in that photo, it definitely went under the washer.
The washer doesn't slide all the way up, the shaft gets a little thicker right above where it rests so it doesn't pull off when I applied force, and didn't want to break it. Basically, I held the washer up with needle nose pliers on each side, and put the oil under it. The picture is misleading, just wanted to document the journey. But I used a few drops of oil so that was a mistake on my end. I then cleaned up the remaining oil that was on the surface past under the black washer.
This is all from the top of the tascam after removing the plastic escutcheon by removing the 6 screws and pinch roller head. I didn't remove the headblock assembly because I read that can effect the tension.
"I don’t know how to answer these questions without knowing the condition of your current capstan belt and pinch roller. Also, are you saying for the pinch roller you only bought a replacement rubber tire, not the whole assembly? What did you buy?"

That makes sense. And yes I only bought the replacement rubber tire and a new belt, I bought this from ebay. But I assume now neither of those could be making the noise? I could also buy this brand new pinch roller here (ebay link), but I also don't think this would change my outcome -- unless you think otherwise.
"Let’s make sure you are 200% clear on something: you do NOT oil the capstan motor. You do nothing to the capstan motor. Everything we are taking about applies to the capstan shaft. Don’t mess with the motor. You clean out the bearing bore with dry cotton swabs, use an air duster when done to blow out any lint or loose debris, and clean the shaft with a lint-free rag and iso alcohol. Then you ONLY need to apply oil *lightly* to the part of the shaft that is in the bearing bore when it’s assembled. In my last post I said to apply a drop at the top. It sounds like you applied several. The details I’m offering are important."

I appreciate your honesty and patience with me. Yes I messed up by applying 2-3 drops of oil instead of one.
Should I attempt to fix that or safe to assume this still won't fix the squealing noise?
And to be transparent, I don't know what the bearing bore is. Is this something I'll see in the grand Plan B attempt of taking the tascam apart from the back and lightly oiling the capstan shaft?

Thanks again, so much.

 

[babecityrecords]

Also, worth noting, I also posted on Reddit for some answers before we spoke, and someone said they had the same issue and took it to a shop that fixed it by doing this:
" I took my 388 to Trevor at Arcane Amps in Portland and he said “It was the full reset and recalibration of the transport mechanisms that needed reset”"

Do you know what that means? Does that mean anything to you / something you've done before?
Thanks again, as always..

 

[sweetbeats]

Thank you again for your continued help, transparency, and patience.

You’re welcome. And I appreciate your patience with me…because I can be…impatient.

First, I did apply the oil under the black washer, that photo was just all I could get with using one hand. You can ignore where the needle is in that photo, it definitely went under the washer.

The washer doesn't slide all the way up, the shaft gets a little thicker right above where it rests so it doesn't pull off when I applied force, and didn't want to break it. Basically, I held the washer up with needle nose pliers on each side, and put the oil under it. The picture is misleading, just wanted to document the journey. But I used a few drops of oil so that was a mistake on my end. I then cleaned up the remaining oil that was on the surface past under the black washer.

This is all from the top of the tascam after removing the plastic escutcheon by removing the 6 screws and pinch roller head. I didn't remove the headblock assembly because I read that can effect the tension.

Okay. Fair enough on the oiling…I understand, and I think you understand too. If you didn’t need to remove the headblock assembly, then there’s no reason to remove it now. If you do need to remove it, I don’t know who told you it would effect the tension, but I can’t see how that’s possible, because it’s a fixed mounting position…remove the assembly, do whatcha gotta do, put it back, and on your way. No impact on tension settings unless you pull the cardbay cover and tweaker the trimmers on the reel servo PCB while the headblock assembly is removed.

I only bought the replacement rubber tire and a new belt, I bought this from ebay. But I assume now neither of those could be making the noise? I could also buy this brand new pinch roller here (ebay link), but I also don't think this would change my outcome -- unless you think otherwise.

I really don’t think either of those are drivers in your noise issue. I think your issue is simply a need to lubricate the capstan bearing assembly and shaft.



I’ve ordered from that eBay Seller before. No issues with that Seller, but I will say I do, in general, have an issue with the concept of a replacement capstan idler or “pinch roller” *tire*. The precision surface and composition of the pinch roller is essential. So thinking an end-user can shove a rubber donut on a hub and expect it to be the precision idler it needs to be, well, IMO that’s too much to expect. It’ll work, and probably work fine, but I don’t think the machine will function to OEM specifications. I wouldn’t go that route for any of my machines, but that’s me.

…I messed up by applying 2-3 drops of oil instead of one.

Should I attempt to fix that or safe to assume this still won't fix the squealing noise?

Well we know it didn’t fix the noise, and the point of applying minimal lubricant is excess oil will attract dirt, can get in things and into places it should go, so yes if there is excess oil sitting on top of the flange there at the top of the bronze bushing and black washer, I’d try to wipe that up. A cotton swap would probably work well.

And to be transparent, I don't know what the bearing bore is. Is this something I'll see in the grand Plan B attempt of taking the tascam apart from the back and lightly oiling the capstan shaft?

Always be forthright if you have questions. I don’t know if I’m losing you unless you tell me, and then we’re wasting each other’s time when our collective goal is to get you some help. So I appreciate you said something. “Bore” is a mechanical term for a hole, and usually one through which something is placed and rotates or slides. So when I say “bore” I’m simply talking about the hole of the bronze sleeve bearing through which the capstan shaft is inserted. So what I’m saying is once you slide the capstan shaft out of the bronze sleeve bearing (and the capstan shaft is fixed to the flywheel…once the bracket under the flywheel is removed the flywheel with capstan shaft should just slide out toward the bottom of the 388…), you want to use cotton swabs to clean out the hole through which the capstan shaft passes…the bore of the bronze sleeve bearing. And then clean the shaft up with iso alcohol, and then apply a light coating of oil.

 

[sweetbeats]

Also, worth noting, I also posted on Reddit for some answers before we spoke, and someone said they had the same issue and took it to a shop that fixed it by doing this:
" I took my 388 to Trevor at Arcane Amps in Portland and he said “It was the full reset and recalibration of the transport mechanisms that needed reset”"

Do you know what that means? Does that mean anything to you / something you've done before?
Thanks again, as always..

That sounds like technician garble-ese for “I setup the transport according to the steps in the manual.” I don’t think that will help your problem. I think cleaning and lubricating the capstan sheet and sleeve bearing will.

 

[babecityrecords]

On the contrary, you've been extremely patient with me and helping for 2+ weeks and counting. In your debt!
I sound like a broken record here, but I do really appreciate it! And getting to know the tascam 388 on the inside is exciting.
It also seems this issue happens a bit frequently to other owners, but nothing really on it and how to solve it in different threads, so I hope, and I expect, this chain will help future tascam 388 owners as well, which is a cool concept.

Anyway, here we go.
So I took the metal back of the tascam off (after using an x-acto blade to take the freaking dirt and dust out of the threading of the screws, wow), vaccumed up the cobwebs, and then got to work on taking off the bracket. I easily took it off, removed the belt to slide the assembly up-- but then here's where I ran into trouble.

The capstan assembly does not easily slide off. I tried pulling the whole circle/bearing assembly thing (red circle in photo) up, and it moved like half an inch up easily, but then I felt like it was caught and I would have been really forcing it up. I tried a few times before realizing I would have to use a good bit of force.

Since you said to slide it up "carefully" earlier, I figured if it wasn't budging easily there's something I should have done that I didn't. And really pulling on it made me fear I'd break something.

And in the spirit of transparency as being a tascam novice, and you allowing my over-questioning, can you confirm what I have circled in red is the exposed capstan assembly? (just to triple check that I am working on and were are talking about the same thing).


Ultimately, I feel like it's caught on something on the front side or doesn't want to budge.

I also looked if there was a screw I missed on the capstan assembly but it doesn't look it (photo 2). If you look on the second photo here, the green circles, those aren't screws or thread for an allen wrench or anything.



Question time!
Should I have removed the plastic escutcheon and pinch roller top from the front side of the tascam first that would block the capstan assembly from sliding off when the tascam is upside down?
It's weird because here in picture 3 (the one you uploaded earlier in the thread) it doesn't look like there's anything to unscrew from the top of the tascam that would make the whole capstan assembly not come off from the bottom being slid up.


Should I just apply more force in taking the whole thing up from the bottom? That whole circle thing in the red circle photo 1, yes?
Is the bracket the only thing that keeps it secure and I just need to pull harder and not be a scaredy cat?

After your advice and I take the whole capstan assembly up off the tascam, I'll probably take pictures of what I'm looking it and upload here for you to approve to make sure I'm applying oil in the right place, one last time -- and this should make it clear for anyone else having the same issue in the future too.
Thanks again! Feel like I'm getting close here, and all thanks to you!!

 

[sweetbeats]

So I took the metal back of the tascam off (after using an x-acto blade to take the freaking dirt and dust out of the threading of the screws, wow), vaccumed up the cobwebs, and then got to work on taking off the bracket. I easily took it off, removed the belt to slide the assembly up-- but then here's where I ran into trouble.

The capstan assembly does not easily slide off. I tried pulling the whole circle/bearing assembly thing (red circle in photo) up, and it moved like half an inch up easily, but then I felt like it was caught and I would have been really forcing it up. I tried a few times before realizing I would have to use a good bit of force.
Since you said to slide it up "carefully" earlier, I figured if it wasn't budging easily there's something I should have done that I didn't. And really pulling on it made me fear I'd break something.

And in the spirit of transparency as being a tascam novice, and you allowing my over-questioning, can you confirm what I have circled in red is the exposed capstan assembly? (just to triple check that I am working on and were are talking about the same thing).

Yes, what you have circled in red is the flywheel, and the capstan shaft is fixed to the flywheel. It should just slide out. The shaft and flywheel float in the bronze sleeve bearing. You’ll notice the bottom of the flywheel in the very middle has what looks like a shiny ball embedded in it, and that ball rides on a little nylon or Teflon pad in the middle of the flywheel bracket you removed. That’s the “thrust bearing”, and it just rides/floats on that. There’s nothing besides that bracket that keeps the flywheel and capstan shaft from falling out. What I’m wondering is if you have some build-up or something or otherwise a small ridge on the driving surface of the capstan shaft. Go top-side…the black washer we’ve been talking about. That is basically a dust seal. You said you could lift it up a little but it only slid up the shaft so far. Does it bind up where the wear pattern starts on the capstan shaft? Like is that how far you’re able to pull the capstan shaft out is where the dust seal meets the beginning of the wear pattern on the capstan shaft? Run your fingernail where the worn part of the capstan shaft starts. Is there a little ridge or something there?

I also looked if there was a screw I missed on the capstan assembly but it doesn't look it (photo 2). If you look on the second photo here, the green circles, those aren't screws or thread for an allen wrench or anything.

Right. The first green circle highlights the center of the flywheel assembly we already talked about, which is part of the thrust bearing. The other circle highlights an area on the flywheel where they drilled out a small area, removed material, in order to balance the flywheel. There is nothing that retains the flywheel and capstan assembly in the chassis except for the flywheel bracket.

Should I have removed the plastic escutcheon and pinch roller top from the front side of the tascam first that would block the capstan assembly from sliding off when the tascam is upside down?

No. The escutcheon doesn’t even contact the capstan shaft.

It's weird because here in picture 3 (the one you uploaded earlier in the thread) it doesn't look like there's anything to unscrew from the top of the tascam that would make the whole capstan assembly not come off from the bottom being slid up.

Correct. There isn’t anything.

Should I just apply more force in taking the whole thing up from the bottom? That whole circle thing in the red circle photo 1, yes?

I think probably so, but I’m first trying to verify my suspicion the dust seal is just hanging up on the wear pattern on the capstan shaft, which doesn’t really make sense, but if there’s a build-up there its possible. So if you feel a ridge there with your fingernail, you may need to gently scrape the build-up off with your razor blade. Maybe somebody ran sticky tape on it once and didn’t properly clean the capstan shaft afterward. Maybe, if possible, you should try and post a good closeup pic of your capstan shaft.

Is the bracket the only thing that keeps it secure and I just need to pull harder and not be a scaredy cat?

Yes it’s the only thing, and maybe you just need to pull harder, but I want to know if the capstan shaft needs cleaning first before you drag whatever through the bearing bore.

 

[babecityrecords]

OK! I'll flip it back over tonight or tomorrow and get better photos or video of the capstan rubber and the issue of trying to slide it up.

I recall that it felt like the capstan shaft got bigger above where the rubber circle was, so pulling / sliding it up is not possible because the inner circle/hole in the rubber was smaller than the capstan shaft thickness above it. Sort of like a purposeful stopper. But maybe not and it's just dirt or something.
But in retrospect, I did try pulling it up with needle nose plyers hard enough where I felt like I was about to rip the rubber so I feel like the capstan shaft above the rubber definitely got thicker and blocked it from sliding up. Could that be?

I wonder, before I flip the machine over -- should I leave the capstan bracket off ( knowing the whole flywheel + capstan isn't going anywhere) and try pushing it out from the front by applying pressure solely on the capstan shaft? Or is that a quick way to create more problems fast and I need to just take it slowly and get more intel?

 

[sweetbeats]

I haven’t owned a 388 in over 5 years, haven’t had one apart to this degree in over 10, and I don’t have one here to reference. So don’t try to force anything. It is possible the capstan shaft slides out upwards rather than through the back. But the flywheel needs removed to do that. From the exploded views it looks like there are two set screws that fix the flywheel to the capstan shaft, loosen those and it should slide off, and then maybe the shaft can be pulled through from the front. But what you want to make sure of is you mark the position of the flywheel in relation to the shaft so that when you reassemble it goes back on just how it came off. I don’t want to mislead you or have you do unnecessary work, I’m just telling you what I can tell from looking at a drawing. Other similar assemblies I’ve worked with slide out the back, which is why I assumed this was the same here. If anybody else reading can offer insight I’d appreciate it. I’m sure I cleaned and lubricated the capstan shaft and bearing on my first 388 that I completely refurbished, but that was in 2010 and I just can’t remember and don’t think I took pictures of that…which is odd for me. Here’s the excerpt of the exploded view. You can see the set screws of the flywheel 90 degrees adjacent to each other:

 

[babecityrecords]

Well, tonight a small miracle happened. I was about to tighten the capstan bracket back on to flip the machine over safely, and gave the flywheel once last little tug just to be sure I wasn’t crazy and it popped right off! Maybe it was the change in temperature, maybe it was a few drinks that gave me the confidence, no idea!
Then it was too easy to take the capstan shaft out of the flywheel.
So, I took a bunch of pictures of the capstan shaft to send here in the hopes you can tell me exactly where to oil it and how many drops of oil to use. Safe to assume after dropping a few drops on the shaft I should disperse it evenly with a q tip? Is that right? If you don’t mind marking where to apply the oil and how much to use, we’ll finally be able to put this capstan oil deficiency theory to the test!

Also if you notice, it looks a little dirty where the tape would rest at the top of the capstan shaft. I marked what I’m referring to with the green circle and arrow in one of these photo attachments.

Should I also try cleaning that with 92% alcohol or is that discoloration normal?

And lastly, check out this photo with the red circle. That joint is reason I believe I couldn’t move the rubber bracket up from the top — it rests in that divot in the shaft that gets thicker above it. At least I believe so.. Maybe not so important now but for reference and maybe that will help someone else some day.

So, lots of mysteries of this journey solved today, but still the ultimate task of fixing the whirring ahead. Hopefully a proper oil of the capstan shaft per your direction is the solution.

Thanks again!

 

[sweetbeats]

Well, tonight a small miracle happened. I was about to tighten the capstan bracket back on to flip the machine over safely, and gave the flywheel once last little tug just to be sure I wasn’t crazy and it popped right off! Maybe it was the change in temperature, maybe it was a few drinks that gave me the confidence, no idea!

You have to remember it’s been 11 or 12 years since I’ve messed with the capstan shaft/bearing on a 388.

So that part that we’ve been calling a black plastic washer…I called it that because you called it that and so I assumed it was hard plastic. Is it not? Is it rubber? That’s just a dust seal. But if it’s rubber then yes I would have guided you to just pull that out of its seat, slide it off the shaft and remove the shaft the way my memory said it came out, from the bottom.

Then it was too easy to take the capstan shaft out of the flywheel.

Hm. The flywheel is the large heavy steel wheel. I suggested removing the capstan shaft from the flywheel as a possible way to remove the shaft from the sleeve bearing upward out the top of the machine. Did you do this anyway? Removed the shaft from the flywheel? Or did you mean to say “easy to take the capstan shaft out of the *bearing*”?

So, I took a bunch of pictures of the capstan shaft to send here in the hopes you can tell me exactly where to oil it and how many drops of oil to use. Safe to assume after dropping a few drops on the shaft I should disperse it evenly with a q tip? Is that right? If you don’t mind marking where to apply the oil and how much to use

I want you to use your brain here. I think it’s less complicated than you’re making it and some common sense will go a long way. We’re just lubricating to metal surfaces that come in contact with each other.

The bronze sleeve bearing is the thing that’s bronze colored, the hole that the capstan shaft goes through. Look at the hole. Now look at the capstan shaft. Identify the area of the capstan shaft that lives inside the sleeve bearing when it’s assembled. Now you tell me what that area is. That’s the area that gets lubricated.

And before you do anything tell me you cleaned the bearing bore and the capstan shaft already, yes? No lubricating until stuff is cleaned. You didn’t mention that part and you’re asking me to repeat instructions here so I gotta ask. For your convenience, clean the capstan shaft with a lint-free cloth and 91% or better iso alcohol or denatured alcohol. Clean the bore just using cotton swabs. Don’t use the alcohol or any solvent. The bearing is made from bronze oilite. It is a porous relatively soft metal. When manufactured it is impregnated with oil. It needs more at this point in life, but there’s no reason to potentially draw oil out of it using solvent to clean the bore. If there is stubborn build-up in the bore, then sure you can get a little solvent on a swab, just have the swab dampened and not saturated/sopping wet with solvent. Get everything clean. And now with the oiling, again, as per previous instructions, it’s not complicated. I didn’t say X number of drops. Just get a light coating of oil on the appropriate area of the shaft okay? You don’t want a bunch because then it’s going drip down onto the top face of the flywheel and then that’s going to throw oil around the inside of your 388 while it’s spinning. So we don’t want it drippin’ offa the thing, but we want the surface coated. I’d saturate a cotton swab with the oil and rub that over the area, distributing it evenly, and if it seemed like I needed more I’d add some, and if it seemed like there was too much I’d dab the excess with a cloth or something. You follow me? And then as you insert the shaft into the bore if it seems like there IS excess oil getting scraped off and building up at the base of the shaft just dab that up with a cotton swab or something. It’s fine if there’s a little there. And don’t be surprised if you have to do this again. If the assembly has been squeaking it’s thirsty, but it takes time for oil to soak in to the bronze. So if it seems fine it’s fine. If it seems like it’s squeaking again, well, you’re an expert on oiling the assembly now so you can easily do it again in the future. Make sense?

…we’ll finally be able to put this capstan oil deficiency theory to the test!

Yes.

Also if you notice, it looks a little dirty where the tape would rest at the top of the capstan shaft. I marked what I’m referring to with the green circle and arrow in one of these photo attachments.

Should I also try cleaning that with 92% alcohol or is that discoloration normal?

You always clean your capstan shaft when you clean your tape path right? And you do that routinely right? If it always looks like that and you’re using 91% or better iso alcohol to clean it, like using a clean lint free cloth or a cotton makeup remover pad, not the cheap kind that shed, and doing it while the shaft is spinning, and it still looks like that, then it’s probably just oxide stained. You can always use some white or green scotch brite pad to clean it up if there something stubborn on the surface, spin it up and gently pinch the shaft with the scotch brite and slide the pinch point up and down the shaft until it looks better or you know it’s not doing anything, then clean it as per normal, but if that doesn’t do anything and the shaft seems smooth then it’s probably fine.

And lastly, check out this photo with the red circle. That joint is reason I believe I couldn’t move the rubber bracket up from the top — it rests in that divot in the shaft that gets thicker above it. At least I believe so.. Maybe not so important now but for reference and maybe that will help someone else some day.

Okay. Here we go. Now you’re calling it rubber and that answers my question above. It’s not a bracket. The bracket is the thing at the bottom of the whole assembly, the metal U shaped bracket with ears and the thrust bearing in the middle. The rubber washer is a dust seal.

 

[babecityrecords]

Hey Sweetbeats, it worked! Thanks for your patience.
This is the first time I've ever "operated" on any sort of machine, and thanks to you, it's now working.

To make the solution super easy for any one else experiencing this: I lightly oiled the capstan shaft and cleaned the bronze with a qtip (with no oil or alcohol) and then applied a tiny baby little bit from a qtip of the oil on the bronze bearing. Then I put the shaft in the bearing a few times to make sure excess oil wasn't coming off, there was a tiny bit and I dabbed it with a dry qtip. Then all good/clean.

This all worked, I spent about 2 hours recording today with no squealing.
I consider this case closed!

For other people as helpless as me, I'm uploading two photos here of where to apply the oil. The "shiny" metal on the capstan shaft, and a tiny bit in the bronze bearing first half inch. It gets wider after that and there's no need to apply oil there since it doesn't make contact with the capstan shaft when it's inserted and secured.

As sweetbeats noted, ONLY OIL AFTER CLEANING. Bronze bearing got no alcohol, the capstan shaft did.

Thanks so much Sweetbeats!

 

[sweetbeats]

Well there ya go. Glad it’s working! Thanks for putting up the detail for future readers.

So that black washer is rubber then, yes? And it just pops out of its seat with a little encouragement?