Tascam 388 Story...

I found this thread and saw the videos there:https://homerecording.com/bbs/showthread.php?p=2932249 pretty explicit (and helpful:))

i'm using a piece of the rmg lpr35 (same that i'm using to record with) and the weight that came with the tentelometer (it says "1" on the side and theres a slip of paper that reads "3/32 Allen wrench, 1 oz. weight, 1 mil x 1" tape") there was paper over the prongs also that said "remove", so it almost seemed NOS, regardless the rust is pretty apparent and leads me to believe that it may be rusty inside, though the manual has scared me away from opening it in case i need to send it back to tentel sometime to be properly 'repaired'. despite the rust, it seems really smooth, if it would have calibrated within range I would have taken it for perfect working.
I have been holding the meter horizontal and going as the tape would go, have the oxide on the correct side etc, and just to try I've done it every which way, there is slight variation in the measurement.
with the 1" 1 mil tape that came with it it does calibrate to 1 oz, but at the most clockwise position.

here's pictures of rust:
tentelometer-1.jpg

tentelometer-2.jpg

I can't imagine how cleaning out the visible rust could help anything.
 
Hmm

I'm not *sure* that is the proper model to use with the 388...you might want to email Tentel and ask.

Can anybody else weigh in on this?
 
sweetbeats said:
I'm not *sure* that is the proper model to use with the 388...you might want to email Tentel and ask.

Can anybody else weigh in on this?
Click to expand...

Rolling probes are usually more needed and designed for VTR units...then again, pressure is pressure so it may be good enough to get the deck in the right range, if not bang on in spec.

Cheers! :)
 
I just cross-referenced the manual and Tentel's site on the T2-H20-1 and indeed that should work...spec'ed for "tape" up to 1".

LUNE I wish I could help further but without the unit in hand and a properly tesnioned deck with which to reference I don't know what to say. My Tentelometer is the T2-H20-ML with solid rather than rolling probes...same scale but works on 1/4" to 2" tape.

If it were me I'd probably be sending it back to Tentel for an assessment, but that's just me. It is a preceision reference instrument and if you can't trust it its worth little until you can, and I know I'm not brave enough to even open mine up.
 
Yep, the T-2-H20-1 is mentioned in my manual as well (which is the better part of why I bought the T-2-H20-1 model).

Thanks for considering my problem. I probably should/will send it to Tentel for evaluation/fixing, though I've got a few other things ahead in line that I'm going to have to be spending extra money on in the foreseeable future.

I have been recording with the machine as is and its been lovely. everyone I record on it or play stuff for is impressed, as am I. At some point I'm going to record some tracks at the same time on the 388 and the 38 (w/o DBX) and listen for differences.

...and of course I'll still be reading here for the next installments of the Story! and following suit with the alignments/bias adjustment at some point when resources permit...:)
 
Anyone want to give advice about a 388 problem?

I just bought one and everything seems to work except the master channel.
I seem to be doing everything as per the manual but get no sound if I monitor the master channel, If I hit the switch to monitor aux send and route something to the aux send I can hear it.

Anyone?
 
I'll take a crack at it...and to make it even more funner I'll answer your question with a question. But first do the following:

  1. Connect a dynamic mic to any channel strip
  2. adjust the TRIM knob so the OL (peak) LED lights occasionally when you talk or sing into the mic
  3. raise the channel fader to around 7~8 (the shaded area)
  4. set the PAN knob to the center position
  5. depress the L-R assign switch on that channel strip
  6. depress the STEREO switch above the MONITOR/PHONES level control
  7. put your headphones on and while talking/singing into the mic raise the MONITOR PHONES level

  • Anything in the headphones?
  • How about at the MONITOR OUT jacks?
  • How about at the STEREO OUT jacks?
 
That was what I tried but nothing came through the headphones or monitor and stereo outs.

However if I turn the aux send knob and hit the aux monitor switch it'll come through.
 
Okay.

If you did all the steps I outlined and nothing comes through any of those outputs then tell me...do you see activity in the master meters?
 
Question: Have you tried the test I outlined 6 posts ago with each channel strip? This is important because I really want to avoid sending you on a wild goose-chase wasting both our time. If you haven't tested it with each strip take the time to do so.

Step 2...

We now know that nothing is getting past the master fader. The question at this point is "Is anything getting TO the master fader?"

One alternate check to confirm something before we go on to answering that question:

  1. Make sure all the L-R ASSIGN switches on channel strips 1~8 are in the UP position.
  2. Make sure the CUE/PGM switch is in the down (i.e. PGM) position.
  3. Setup your mic into the channel of your choice, set the TRIM, raise the channel fader to shaded area and then...
  4. Depress all the PGM ASSIGN switches (i.e. 1-2, 3-4, 5-6, 7-8) EXCEPT of course the L-R switch.
  5. Raise the PGM MASTER ODD/EVEN faders to the shaded area.
  6. Raise the STEREO MASTER fader to the shaded area.
  7. Speak/sing into the mic.
  8. Anything at the master meters, headphones, stereo out jacks, monitor out jacks when selecting STEREO as the monitor source?

BTW, as a teaching point, all I've referenced in the manual so far is the wonderful Block Diagram on pages 47 and 48. I'm just looking on page 48 and working my way backwards from the headphone jack to the monitor source select switch...we checked everthing else that is also fed by the STEREO setting on the switch (the STEREO OUT and MONITOR OUT jacks as well as the master meters). That all goes to the amp on the output of the master fader, then of course to fader itself and then the amp that drives the fader. We know nothing is happening past that amp on the output of the fader (on the block diagram those are the two triangles to the right of the master fader). If any of those other things had worked we'd know that it is something specific to those things on the output side of the master fader, but we've (so far) isolated the issue to be a global issue with the output of the master fader. Again, this is all just using the Block Diagram...its a treasure hunting map. If you aren't comfortable/used to looking at Block Diagrams I encourage you to spend some quality time with it while you sit in front of the 388. I think the Block Diagram is the most useful document in any manual for several reasons.

Once we hone in on the general area using the Block Diagram then (if necessary) we can go to the schematic for the specific area we've zoomed into using the Block Diagram. Then we just do the same thing using the schematic. Typically once you get to the schematic level its time to pull out a multimeter and sometimes a tone generator.

No promises, but let's see what we can do. It may be something as simple as a loose connection at the master fader.
 
Ok I tested each channel strip and found a new problem, channel 8 doesn't seem to be working either.

But moving onto step 2: nothing at the master meters, headphones, stereo out jacks or monitor out jacks.

I think nothing is getting to the master fader. If I crank the monitor volume I can hear a small amount of noise when the master fader is at full but none when it's as low as possible.

Thanks for your help.
 
The small amount of signal you get when you have it cranked is likely just bleed through another path.

Next is to check and see if the master fader is connected and to reseat the connection if it is.

Tip the 388 up on its side and remove the bottom panel and you'll be able to see where the fader is and where it connects. Have a look at it and unplug it and plug it back in a couple times and see if that changes anything.

Do you have a multimeter, and (I'm assuming yes on this next one...) a computer with a soundcard?
 
Thanks again for the help. I turned her over and took the bottom panel off and noticed about 4 loose connectors and a few half loose ones. Putting these back in fixed the master channel problem and the channel 8 problem. PRAISE TEAC!

Now there's only one problem left: Track 1.

Nothing I arm to Track 1 comes through. If I were a loose connection where would I be?
 
Did you test everything on the channel? MIC in, LINE in, ACCESS SEND? How about anything to the AUX or EFF busses? None of the ASSIGN routings work (i.e. 1-2, 3-4, 5-6, 7-8, L-R)?
 
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