Prepping the basement for drywall

  • Thread starter Thread starter Velvet Elvis
  • Start date Start date
Now its clear.:D Ok, well, it looks like its time to put this together. I can see now you have your work cut out for you.:eek: I also see there is no way to move any ducts to other cavities. The flex duct(return )in the corner is probably going to have to go down in the air cavity between the two partition walls, and come in the end of the baffle. Just like you said. It doesn't look like enough room to drop down over the baffle. Ok, thanks Jim. Talk later. Its late and work tomorrow. I'll be back:)
fitZ
 
Hey Jim. Is there enough room in the cavity with the copper plumbing to put a RETURN flex duct in there? If so, this would also be an ideal solution for feeding and exhausting the box. Easy to attatch the flex to 90 degree ducts that are pre mounted to the box when it is fastened in place. Anyway, just thought I'd ask.:)
 

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Rick,

Yep... I could probably make that work.

Jim
 
:cool: Great. Ok Jim, that makes things easy now. Now, I need a couple of other pieces of info(I bet your thinking...jeeeezus, what now:D)

First, did you mention someone was going to give you some "duct liner"? If so, do you know the thickness?

Second, can you get a couple of 6" 90degree duct elbows? I assume these are fairly available.

Last, what is the dimension of the gap between the exterior wall and the framing?
Thanks
 
Rick,

Someone didn't GIVE me duct liner... I had to buy it... and they only sell it in 100 foot rolls :) I bought the 1-inch acoustic liner from Johns Manville.

Yes, I can easily get 6 inch 90 degree elbows.

The gap between the framing and the concrete varies... the outer right wall (left wall on your drawings) has no gap (less than 1/8 an inch). the back wall (the wall behind the soffit you are designing) is 1 inch at the control room side and tapers out to 1 1/4 inches at the corner of the room. However, since we will put the RC and the drywall right over the top of this box, I would think we could leave a little play at the sides (1/4 inch or so) since the RC will easily cover that gap on the side walls.

Thanks again Rick... I have my tools at the ready ;)

Jim
 
If the RC-1 is in contact with a full surface lke your box - it will not reach it's full potential as far as isolation goes.

Rod
 
I figured that might be the case, Rod, but I wasn't sure how else to handle it. The framing isn't isolated, so the box hanging on the framing wouldn't be isolated either.

Any thoughts?

Jim
 
If the RC-1 is in contact with a full surface lke your box - it will not reach it's full potential as far as isolation goes.
Click to expand...

I already took that into consideration Rod. Still detailing those aspects. As well as the "decoupled hanger brackets for the box itself, but I'm not done with those yet. Just got the duct and centerline locations .Whatta ya think so far?:D
 

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PS. I'll post the actual construction dimensions after I get the hanger hardware figured out.
 
I like it.

Would you make the vent openings bigger than the standard vent size? As to keep from creating noise when the air passes the small vent? I've been considering using 8 x 10 vents in other places.

Jim
 
Would you make the vent openings bigger than the standard vent size?
Click to expand...
I don't know. Maybe Rod would chime in on that. I'm still configuring some things but I'll get this thing posted as soon as I can.
 
Ok Jim, I've reconfigured the box baffles so every path is the same dimensions. I also moved the cutouts for the grill register over equal to the baffle around it. This doesn't leave room for an enlarged grill, unless you can find one that will fit. I don't have time to post a drawing with the interior dimensions this morning. Later tonight though. Anyway, heres what the basic box looks like now. Still have to do the hanging hardware too.
fitz
 

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Hello Jim. As I was dimensioning the interior this morning, something dawned on me. Since this box is 12x24x96, it may NOT fit the pathway to the room:eek: Not only that, but even if you get it in the room, most likely, because of the angled wall, you might have to move the box up against the wall up on edge, and then rotate it downwards to the floor on its bottom. Then you can lift it up. I am designing the hanger hardware for an EASY decoupled hang. From years of experience installing Store Fixtures, I've learned nothing is worse than trying to lift a heavy fixture and fastening it at the same time.

You might have to install some blocking between the joists, and wall studs, but I don't have the design down yet. I'll let you know. Also, IF, you don't think this will fit through the house in one piece, I'll redo it into TWO.

Anyway, heres the plan so far.:) I didn't bother dimensioning the register holes because I don't know what you are using yet. The hole should be 1/4" larger than the hardware, all the way around, and you might have to install it with caulk/seals BEFORE the RC and drywall are installed, simply for lack of access after the drywall is in place. Then the Grill could go on after the drywall. Let me know when you have a register in mind. I'll post a TYPICAL detail of the concept later.

Also, I don't know the nature of your "duct liner" but I did show the insulation as 1" thick everywhere. You'll most likely have to custom fit these pieces as you go. Mainly, I'd assemble everything but the top, then insert the bottom insulation first. Then all the sidewall liners. Then the register. Then the top of the box. Then the hanging hardware. At least, thats the assembly sequence as I see it.;)

This will require the following pieces of OBS/Ply. The top and bottom will take one full sheet themselves. Then rip strips 10 1/2" wide by 96" long. Cut all the ends/partition and baffle pieces to length from these. It'll probably take two strips.

Top and bottom. (2)@ 3/4"x24"x96"
Ends and partition. (3)@ 3/4"x10 1/2"x22 1/2"
Center Baffles (2)@ 3/4"x10 1/2"x 12 7/8"
Register Baffles (2)@ 3/4"x10 1/2"x 11 7/8"
(2)@ 3/4"x10 1/2"x14 1/2"

As to assembly, for ease of assembly. I'd PRE MARK the outlines of the ends/partition and baffles on the top and bottom piece, and then PRE DRILL and countersink holes at about 8"oc. Then Pre drill the sides for the ends/partition and baffles. Assemble sides to the bottom first. Then Then the ends/Partition, and then the baffles. It would be easy to fasten these if you roll the unit up on one side, so you can fasten through the bottom, and through the one side. Then roll it back on the other side to fasten things to this side.


Hope this helps so far.:)
fitZ
 

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RICK FITZPATRICK said:
it may NOT fit the pathway to the room:eek: Not only that, but even if you get it in the room, most likely, because of the angled wall, you might have to move the box up against the wall up on edge, and then rotate it downwards to the floor on its bottom. Then you can lift it up.
Click to expand...

No problem, Rick. I'm sure I can get it in there. There are stacks and stacks of 4x8 sheets of drywall down there that we got in and maneuvered around the area, so it should be fine.

Looking great!

Thanks,
Jim
 
Hello Jim. Well, I didn't abandon you.:D Not much time for this lately. However, I've done some research and here is somewhat the idea. Hang the box on 8 vibration isolators. The idea is to lift the box and slide it over about an inch and a half sideways, onto HOOK CLEATS, that already hang from this bracket with decouplers. Just have to work out a few details. Here is the link for the anti vibration type product.

http://www.avproductsinc.com/Stationary.html
http://www.avproductsinc.com/SEM-23.pdf

And here is the first draft of the idea. Remember, its not finished yet.:)
 

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No worries, Rick... I figured you were still working something out :)

Jim
 
Try greengluestore.com. They may able to price it in a way to make it affordable for you.
 
Hello Jim. Well, I've found the solution for hanging the box easily...and decoupled as well. However, it'll be a day or so before I can get back to the file and draw it. Sorry for the delay. Been slammed with work. Hang in there.:)
fitZ
 
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