My Quasi-Recording/Mix Room Build

[RICK FITZPATRICK]

But as I approached the end that was already capped, it became apparent that the plywood was too wide.

Are you sure the dado's are PARALLEL instead of the back? Sometimes, when assembling a unit where opposite dado's are employed, one END panel may be slightly different, which manifests as NON parallel dado's. Just a thought. Anyway...ain't woodworking fun?

btw, one time I specified over 500 GLASS shelves for a series of fixture's at 3 Macy's flagship stores..1/16" too long. My boss wasn't a happy camper. The cost to repair them was nothing compared to the flogging he took from Federated Dept. stores..or my public humiliation.

 

[Myriad_Rocker]

Are you sure the dado's are PARALLEL instead of the back? Sometimes, when assembling a unit where opposite dado's are employed, one END panel may be slightly different, which manifests as NON parallel dado's. Just a thought.

To be honest, I don't really understand what you just said here. The reason I think the plywood back is off is because, as it approaches the end piece, it bows. Now, I'm not saying that the end I'm feeding it into first is true to the other end. But I know the other end is good to go. Does that make sense?

What I think you're saying is that is the other end true to the back part I'm feeding it into. The answer to that is probably not...because I have not fixed the end piece on that end yet because I need to slide the back in there first. Make sense?

 

[RICK FITZPATRICK]

The answer to that is probably not...because I have not fixed the end piece on that end yet because I need to slide the back in there first. Make sense?

OH! No wonder the panel fits at the open end. Well, in that case, just keep trimming untill it fits at the CAPTURED end. Then fasten the other.

btw Myriad. Not to beat a dead horse here, I'm just trying to help. Sometimes, depending on design, one end may have a dado matching the side dados, but the other is actually cut to the INSIDE edge of the dado. This allows fastening BOTH ends, yet still allows for the panel to be inserted at the open end with no dado. Like this. Here is a simplified version which is an upside down drawer. This allows you to slip the bottom in from one end and then fastening it to the end with no dado.

This keeps the dado's PARALLEL.


Well, enough of this. Someone may think this is a woodworking forum.

 

[RICK FITZPATRICK]

Oh, just caught this.

Oh, and you'd laugh and probably get onto me if I told you how I cut the dado. I did it with the table saw but I didn't use my dado blade. I was lazy and didn't feel like changing the blade. I made my first cut and then, since the sheet was only 5mm thick (not 1/4" like I initially said...my bad), I just moved the fence over and made another pass. It's not totally flat all the way down the dado but I didn't think I would have this much problem with it. I also did a much wider dado like that on another set of boards. Yikes!

No laugh. I do it all the time for quick work. But ya have to watch out for those moments when the material wants to ride UPWARDS over the blade. To make it cut a consistent depth, use a vertical FEATHERBOARD over the blade. Make one real simple.
Like this
How to make a Featherboard

Install it like this.

 

[Myriad_Rocker]

After trying for a while to shove a trimmed down piece into the dado I cut, I said fuck it. I ended up nailing a small cut of furring strip to create a rabbit. Then I set the back on top of that and nailed it down. Fit perfectly that way. I'll do the remaining three the same way. Then I'll seal them up from the inside with silicone and drop the insulation in.

I picked up a trim/cutout router bit today. For some reason, I've grown fond of Bosch router bits. They're not quite as expensive as Freud but they good enough quality that they'll last me for as much as I use them.

I'm HOPING to be in the garage tomorrow working on all this stuff. It's starting to bug me that I've had setbacks. Plus I haven't been able to actually work on any of it all because of work and family obligations.

 

[RICK FITZPATRICK]

Plus I haven't been able to actually work on any of it all because of work and family obligations.
***************

Man o man. Been there, done that......for 20 years. Well, at least you solved one problem.

Hey Myriad. The only difference in bits is the carbide quality. It's actually rated. I believe a C4 is the best, and C3 is common. C2 are China made. Amana commercial bits are C4...but you pay for what you get. Just like with guitars.

 

[Myriad_Rocker]

I believe a C4 is the best, and C3 is common. C2 are China made. Amana commercial bits are C4...but you pay for what you get. Just like with guitars.

I play my guitars more than I use router bits.

EDIT: I didn't see a rating anywhere on the box...where would it be?

 

[Myriad_Rocker]

Back in the shop today. I'm taking a quick break to do some review of my design so I figured I'd post a pic. It's a cell phone pic, but it's decent.

This is a shot of the plastic that I placed over the insulation. I'm not a fan of floating fibers in my air. Plus this will reflect a very small amount of the highs so the room isn't dull and lifeless. For those that don't know, this is a common thing. 1) it keeps fibers out of your air, and 2) it serves to put some of those highs back in the room that you need.

 

[Myriad_Rocker]

Spent some more time in the shop today. Finished one of the slat absorbers. Started on sealing and finishing the other one afterward. Found out that I need to put some support feet on them because, with the slats installed, they tend to want to tip forward.

Close up...this is before I filled the nail holes with wood putty and touched up the stain.


Another shot showing it length-wise.

 

[Re-tox_stl]

Verrry nice! I must say, I am quite envious

 

[Myriad_Rocker]

Verrry nice! I must say, I am quite envious

Thanks!

Ordered the rack rails last night for the two 12 space oak racks I'm building. I expect those will be easier than building treatment has been.

 

[Myriad_Rocker]

Been working in the garage the past two evenings as well as the last Saturday and Sunday. I'm on the 3rd slat absorber as of tonight. I miscalculated/didn't buy enough wood for the slats so I had to go back today. I think I'm still short but we'll see. Staining is taking up quite a bit of the time. Nailing the slats in place is also quite tedious. However, the finished result is worth it.

I'm pretty close to being able to start on the racks. That means that I can start organizing the room finally, as well. Once I start putting stuff in racks, I can start getting rid of boxes (or at least putting said boxes in the attic). After the racks, I've decided to do some shelving in the closet that's in the room so I can use it for mic storage, cables, guitars, stands, etc. That should only take an afternoon or so. Then I can start moving my treatment into the room and begin on the front/back walls.

 

[Sky Blue Lou]

Just wanted to briefly say it's looking really good, Myriad. I can't wait to see them set up in the room. My hat is off to you and the effort you are putting in. Very nice indeed.


lou

 

[Myriad_Rocker]

Just wanted to briefly say it's looking really good, Myriad. I can't wait to see them set up in the room. My hat is off to you and the effort you are putting in. Very nice indeed.

Thanks, Lou! It's taking longer than I wanted or expected...but you already knew that! So far I'm happy with the results, though. I made quite the mistake last night on one of the slat absorbers. It was a cutting mistake and I made the same mistake on the final slat absorber as well. I think I've devised a good workaround for it, though. Oh well...live and learn.

 

[Myriad_Rocker]

Went ahead and did my cut sheet for the racks. I got the rack design from here. That's a two bay 14-space and mine is going to be two one-bay 12-space racks.

Here's my cut sheet the way I figure it. I think I could get some of the legs for my desk out of this as well. I'll need another sheet to do the desk top, desk bracings, and monitor stands. At about $45 per sheet, I hope I don't screw up much.

Sorry about the width...I'm at work and don't have any image editing software here.





EDIT: One question I have (and maybe fitZ can chime in here) is...how do I secure the top to the rack frame? I thought about biscuits but wouldn't that be hard to line up correctly? I know I could just use screws but I don't really want to screw into the top. I suppose I could use some L brackets or something...thoughts?

 

[Myriad_Rocker]

Got the rack designed. Some details are left out...like roundovers. No big deal there.

The rack rails are 21" long and the opening looks to be about 3/8" too short. I bet I can still fit it in...may be an angle thing.



Edit: I just noticed that the angle I did the image at makes it look like the center is filled in...it's not.

 

[RICK FITZPATRICK]

One question I have (and maybe fitZ can chime in here) is...how do I secure the top to the rack frame? I thought about biscuits but wouldn't that be hard to line up correctly? I know I could just use screws but I don't really want to screw into the top. I suppose I could use some L brackets or something...thoughts?

Hey Myriad, looking good man! Doesn't it feel good to finally accomplish something? Just finished the aluminum bezels for my two computers last night myself. Learned a new trick too!

Ok, as to your question. If you look at the skp. file I sent you, zoom in under the top, and look at the front rail. You'll see something important. I've built 2 wood consoles, and after loading them with equipment, the front edge ALWAYS sagged. The second even had a 2x3 wood rail. Now, I don't know what you've come up with for a final design, or the equipment that will be on/in but my open span was more than 80" for my original design. So, I finally got a piece of 1 1/2"x1 1/2"x 1/8" steel angle, drilled holes along each flange for screws, and fastened it in place. That did the trick. Or, if your span isn't very long, you can simply use 3/4"x3/4" hardwood cleats. Either full length or just a few pieces. This way the screws are hidden undernieth. Or you can use Liquid Nails or such.
fitZ




Looks great though.

 

[Myriad_Rocker]

Hey Myriad, looking good man! Doesn't it feel good to finally accomplish something? Just finished the aluminum bezels for my two computers last night myself. Learned a new trick too!

Ok, as to your question. If you look at the skp. file I sent you, zoom in under the top, and look at the front rail. You'll see something important. I've built 2 wood consoles, and after loading them with equipment, the front edge ALWAYS sagged. The second even had a 2x3 wood rail. Now, I don't know what you've come up with for a final design, or the equipment that will be on/in but my open span was more than 80" for my original design. So, I finally got a piece of 1 1/2"x1 1/2"x 1/8" steel angle, drilled holes along each flange for screws, and fastened it in place. That did the trick. Or, if your span isn't very long, you can simply use 3/4"x3/4" hardwood cleats. Either full length or just a few pieces. This way the screws are hidden undernieth. Or you can use Liquid Nails or such.
fitZ




Looks great though.

Yeah, I noticed the steel angle on the desk itself. I'm doing that when I get to the desk. But I'm talking about the rack case. I'm building them separately. The desk and then the racks built to flank the desk. So I'm talking about securing the TOP of the rack case to the frame. Basically, it's the sides with some hardwood bracing at the top and then the actual top just sits on it. The rack case is only about 19.25 wide (the opening, anyway).

 

[RICK FITZPATRICK]

But I'm talking about the rack case.

DOH!! What a dummy.

OK, well, that's easy. For DIY, make a 3/4"x3/4" cleat and fasten them to the two ends, inside and flush with the top edge. Either that, or go buy a new hand held slot boring tool, and machine 3 slotbores at the top end of the sides. OR...simply buy some small metal angles...OR...make a cleat out of aluminum/steel angle. OR...just glue it via Liquid nails. OR ..... Just screw that puppy down, and then contact cement some Black laminate over the Screws. Hey..then you can use that new router to flush route it!! Then you can use that new tablesaw to miter some hardwood edges and THEN...you can fasten the hardwood edges by using that new SLOT BORING tool I told you about. On the underside of the top...just machine 3 or 4 slots, screw the edges on to the edges of the top and THEN...use your new router to machine an 1/8" bullnose on the edges!! Then you can set equipment on the top without worrying about scratching it. Looks great too. Black formica with stained hardwood is nice! AND, you can find it at Lowes, Homedepot or similar stores usually. In half sheets I believe. Anyway, hope that helps ya.

 

[RICK FITZPATRICK]

Btw Myriad. I'm really curious. Throughout your whole thread...for some reason...I didn't connect the dots. What I'm wondering is....why did you use Slats OVER a superchunk????????????????????