Will a 60 watt solid state amp rated at 4ohms work with a 300 watt 4×10 bass cab rated at 8ohms?

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Shaggu

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Just got my hands on a crate gx600 and might get my hands on a fender 4×10 bass cab. I'm wondering if this will work and if any, is there some draw back?
 
Solid state is a little different. They rate it at 4. It handles a min and max range.

Fender 4x10 cab could be 4-16. Mono or stereo.

Download the manuals and see what you got. Look for this data.

Screenshot 2021-03-23 130855.webp
 
The minimum on the amp head is at 2ohms and max at 4ohms. I notice looking at the pic of the cabinet and it's wired parallel. I'm sure I wont destroy anything if I hook them up, I'm just wondering if it would be worth doing it.
 
Not sure your budget or bass skill level. You mentioned Fender. Here, let me help you....

Have you looked at the TB1200? or TB600? They were very popular and can be found for a steal. I'd go for a TB1200.
Screenshot 2021-03-23 134557.webp




They have a crossover. So you can set the Ext cab up for a subwoofer enclosure. Like a Cerwin Vega 18" folded horn 36. Needs more power.
Screenshot 2021-03-23 134235.webp

It will need another 1000 watts from this...
Screenshot 2021-03-23 134450.webp





The Fender TB series are legit.

Use your 4x10 cabnet too. Add some compression horns for slap...

That's what Id do.
 
Actually this is a guitar amp head. Should have mention that. I play guitar. I was looking at this.
 

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If the amp only outputs to 4 ohms, the cabinet rated at 8 might be too much load. Check the manual.

Solid state amps are nice. Fender made some incredible SS amplifiers circa 1990. The Red knobs. Hot Rod. Champ. Those do 8 ohms.

My favorite Solid State guitar amp of all time the Fender M-80! Check local they go for $100 bucks.
Screenshot 2021-03-23 144013.webp


Or a super rack

Screenshot 2021-03-23 144203.webp
 
But the speakers are wired parallel and two 8ohms speakers wired that way =4ohms. The Amp head has a left and right channel just like the cabinet. I'm just worried it might not sound the way I want it. This is my first attempt at a stack and the only cabinet that was in my price range that wasn't beat the hell up. Music go round had my ideal cabinet at 250 but wanted to charge 200 for shipping.
 
It's a solid state head, so you can plug it into a cabinet with a higher impedance. Just don't go below 4 ohms.
 
Farview said:
It's a solid state head, so you can plug it into a cabinet with a higher impedance. Just don't go below 4 ohms.
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I'm just worried it might sound like shit. I guess worst case scenario, just replace the speakers with 4ohms designated for guitars.
 
I'm just tinkering. So yeah it is thrown together. I got the amp head for free. I'm just trying a cabinet in my price range that wasnt beat to shit and that is what I found. It's not unheard of to use bass cabinets on guitars amp heads. Just worried bout the wattage and ohms so I don't fuck them both up.
 
Shaggu said:
Doesn't say. All I know it's a 60 watt rms per channel at 4 ohms
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I'm a newb at this. I always play on solid state combo amps. This is my first attempt at throwing something together. I know its ideal to match ohms but I have heard mix reviews. I know doing the opposite of what I'm doing would be disastorus lol but I do know using a 4 guitar amp on an 8 bass cab could mean sacrificing volume and or tone. By how much I'm not sure of.
 
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My equipment is ADA. Best stuff ever.

ADA MP-2 for metal or try a Triaxis. Amplifier with EL-34's. 4x12 celestion cabinet. Delay box with 6 lines of right left delay. That should set you up.
 
Shaggu said:
I'm a newb at this. I always play on solid state combo amps. This is my first attempt at throwing something together. I know its ideal to match ohms but I have heard mix reviews. I know doing the opposite of what I'm doing would be disastorus lol but I do know using a 4 guitar amp on an 8 bass cab could mean sacrificing volume and or tone. By how much I'm not sure of.
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You won't sacrifice volume because you will probably never run the thing at full volume. The tone is already going to be different because you are using a bass cabinet instead of a guitar cabinet. I would find a way to turn off the tweeter, that would be the thing that might get fried if you use distortion. The speakers in that cabinet will probably be a little cleaner than ones you would normally find in a guitar cabinet.
 
Farview said:
You won't sacrifice volume because you will probably never run the thing at full volume. The tone is already going to be different because you are using a bass cabinet instead of a guitar cabinet. I would find a way to turn off the tweeter, that would be the thing that might get fried if you use distortion. The speakers in that cabinet will probably be a little cleaner than ones you would normally find in a guitar cabinet.
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The tweeter has a level control on the back so that solves that problem.
 
Get a grip! Plugging up amps and speakers is what I did in school physics classes, it is a great explanation of how Ohms Law works. A 4 x 10” cab is brighter than a 4 x 12” cab. The higher impedance causes a mismatch reflected in a small volume loss, so to get a louder sound involves turning the amp up louder than you normally do, but if you run at say, 3 on the volume knob, you might run at 5. That’s it. You might like or loath the sound. Plug it in and play. Back when we had amps with valves as the norm, everyone was experimenting with different speakers, and less good mismatches were common. The folk who did spinal tap with settings on 11 had unreliability issues. The rest of us didn’t. Solid state took away much of this. Many musicians are idiots by design, bass players like me even more so. We yank out speaker plugs by falling over them, jacks shorting the output as they pull out, we have jack’s that fall out of the guitars, treating audiences to full output of hum and cracks, and because of paralleling speakers we often have too low an impedance. If amps were delicate and unprotected, nobody would give them a years warranty, let alone the three years often offered. Nobody reads instructions so any statement of doom and gloom means you bought a previous delicate amp, or the maker just wants you to at least try to not abuse it. Most amp designs nowadays sense mismatches, throttle back output and don’t teeter on the edge of destruction. I just don’t understand the scared-e-cat mentality nowadays. Nobody ever plugs anything in until at least thirty strangers on line say it’s ok to do so, and half of these have never done it in their lives, and seem to have flunked physics classes. In truth, we’re recording folk, but if you go on a bass forum, for example, this question would now be forty pages long and wildly out of control. Here, all we really care about is what it sounds like!
 
Yeah, a solid state amp should be fine at higher impedance, just a bit quieter.
 
rob aylestone said:
Get a grip! Plugging up amps and speakers is what I did in school physics classes, it is a great explanation of how Ohms Law works. A 4 x 10” cab is brighter than a 4 x 12” cab. The higher impedance causes a mismatch reflected in a small volume loss, so to get a louder sound involves turning the amp up louder than you normally do, but if you run at say, 3 on the volume knob, you might run at 5. That’s it. You might like or loath the sound. Plug it in and play. Back when we had amps with valves as the norm, everyone was experimenting with different speakers, and less good mismatches were common. The folk who did spinal tap with settings on 11 had unreliability issues. The rest of us didn’t. Solid state took away much of this. Many musicians are idiots by design, bass players like me even more so. We yank out speaker plugs by falling over them, jacks shorting the output as they pull out, we have jack’s that fall out of the guitars, treating audiences to full output of hum and cracks, and because of paralleling speakers we often have too low an impedance. If amps were delicate and unprotected, nobody would give them a years warranty, let alone the three years often offered. Nobody reads instructions so any statement of doom and gloom means you bought a previous delicate amp, or the maker just wants you to at least try to not abuse it. Most amp designs nowadays sense mismatches, throttle back output and don’t teeter on the edge of destruction. I just don’t understand the scared-e-cat mentality nowadays. Nobody ever plugs anything in until at least thirty strangers on line say it’s ok to do so, and half of these have never done it in their lives, and seem to have flunked physics classes. In truth, we’re recording folk, but if you go on a bass forum, for example, this question would now be forty pages long and wildly out of control. Here, all we really care about is what it sounds like!
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Yeah I pretty much figured it out that it will be fine. This made me flashback to the time when I was a kid, I wired a shelf speaker to a clock radio thinking it would be louder but the result was the volume level pretty much stayed the same and the speaker wasn't working to its full potential. I don't plan on cranking it to ten so volume will only be a slight factor but not noticeable unless you're a gear snob. I pulled the trigger and bought the cabinet. Its not going to destroy the amp so what the hell lol.
 
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