Which charvel ?

[FrankD77]

I did not buy it with a broken headstock. That happened in transport as stated in the post.

I never use tremsetters in my guitars. Maybe one day
When replacing strings i just use a tremlock

I mostly buy semi vintage guitars preferably from Japan. If you ever played a Japanese prestige, jem or charvel you know why they are very much in Demand

Also this one has a curved body and quartersawed neck. So yes they are worth it. Bought this one for 590,00 i don't think you can buy anything new that beats the feel and quality these kind of guitars give

I have a "custom" (off brand) strat from Japan from the 80s that beats my Fender usa on almost every point. Bought it for 200,00 Japanse guitars are awesome. But going up in price fast.

 

[LazerBeakShiek]

A tremsetter is for bridge stability. So notes don't go out of tune when you bend the strings with your fingers.

As a bonus it helps return the bridge to a neutral position. There are problems with this because the spring tension is so low, it can't always return the bridge back. Unless you crank in the screws and make it a STIFF whammy bar. That is no fun. I like dive bombs with a wiggly bar that is easy to flatten.

Ibanez made good instruments years ago. The Ibanez Mikro Bass is terrible. String buzz on the lower frets is so bad. Is that supposed to be a kids toy? I have no experience with Ibanez post 2000.

Now, I'm gas'n for a cheap guitar. If it sucks, I'm coming back and bitching about it.

Rules-
Nothing over $250.
No used. Open Box/B-stock/Like New is ok.
No Squier's . NONE.

what is 200,00..is that 200,000 or 200.00 which is equal to 2o0o0o0o0

 

[FrankD77]

I've looked at the tremsetters but never really took the step. It's not something that bothers me but now I want to try it

In the 200 range no idea.
I mostly look if they are made in Japan and if they are not above 200 i take the gamble.

On most you can tell from the neck plate in which factory they were build. At least that's what they told me

 

[LazerBeakShiek]

Watch the first 50 seconds and it explains the physics of it. Very important to understand this if you are using Floyd Rose style bridges.


At 46 seconds in he demonstrates, can you hear how much better it sounds? More in tune?

 

[FrankD77]

I know the concept
Just don't have one.

My main one is a jem v7wh ebony and i prefer to keep them original. Maybe one day in a newer one.

They also have a new tremsystem that's supposed to never have these issues or others. Believe it was introduced at namm saw a short video and that looked really like something new.

 

[LazerBeakShiek]

When I bought my Jackson it came with the guitar setup if purchased new.

 

[FrankD77]

Some newer ones have it indeed. Also saw it on the pia.

 

[Old Music Guy]

You bought that guitar with a broken head.. I am not seeing the value. Problem is I never got into cheap guitars. You think I should get one?

A brand new Jackson is like $200. Looks almost the same as the Jackson Dinky that is $2000.

Floyd Rose trem needs a tremsetter. I'll need one of those too.

I'd love to have a convo on cheap guitars. I have some real beauties that were dirt cheap. It's pert near impossible to find a USA built guitar that is worth the difference in $$$ and have any decent resale value. I have Chinese guitars, Korean guitars, Mexican guitars, Frankenstrats...
There is a lot of value if your selective.

 

[DrewPeterson7]

Watch the first 50 seconds and it explains the physics of it. Very important to understand this if you are using Floyd Rose style bridges.


At 46 seconds in he demonstrates, can you hear how much better it sounds? More in tune?

I used one for a bit in an Ibanez RG7620 back in the day, and later used a Tremol-no which is... think of it as more of an on-off switch for the trem, rather than a trem stabilizer. I still have one in several of my floating trem guitars, though it mostly lives full floating and is there more as an option than a routine thing to use.

It did make in-tune compound bends easier. Clear plus. It also essentially killed trem "flutter," which was more of a neutral - Vai always did a lot with it musically, others see it as a nuisance. For me though the irritation was it created a distinct "catch" in the bar as you crossed neutral in either direction. I tend to do a lot of bar vibrato, and you REALLY feel it there.

I think the better option, personally, is to just learn how to apply just enough counterpressure against the body of the trem to keep compound bends in tune while bending - I'm not sure I can say with confidence that I've got it down to the cent, but after... 30 years of this, maybe, I've got them clean enough that they don't jump out at you. It takes a little practice but it's the cleanest solution, I think.

 

[FrankD77]

I used one for a bit in an Ibanez RG7620 back in the day, and later used a Tremol-no which is... think of it as more of an on-off switch for the trem, rather than a trem stabilizer. I still have one in several of my floating trem guitars, though it mostly lives full floating and is there more as an option than a routine thing to use.

It did make in-tune compound bends easier. Clear plus. It also essentially killed trem "flutter," which was more of a neutral - Vai always did a lot with it musically, others see it as a nuisance. For me though the irritation was it created a distinct "catch" in the bar as you crossed neutral in either direction. I tend to do a lot of bar vibrato, and you REALLY feel it there.

I think the better option, personally, is to just learn how to apply just enough counterpressure against the body of the trem to keep compound bends in tune while bending - I'm not sure I can say with confidence that I've got it down to the cent, but after... 30 years of this, maybe, I've got them clean enough that they don't jump out at you. It takes a little practice but it's the cleanest solution, I think.

I agree. I don't feel it being a problem.
In fact they created awesome music without one for decades.

Now the drop D solution is interesting. It doesn't fit my low pros but maybe it will be added to my Schaller bridge.

Just talked to my friend and the lockmeister fits but he needs to take 4mm of wood away under the trem arm to make pulling up the same as with the original bridge. Hope to pick it up next week. He will also do some fret work on it.

 

[DrewPeterson7]

I agree. I don't feel it being a problem.
In fact they created awesome music without one for decades.

Now the drop D solution is interesting. It doesn't fit my low pros but maybe it will be added to my Schaller bridge.

Just talked to my friend and the lockmeister fits but he needs to take 4mm of wood away under the trem arm to make pulling up the same as with the original bridge. Hope to pick it up next week. He will also do some fret work on it.

The EVH D-tuna? I always understood that that only worked with dive-only trems, but I don't play enough drop D to have really researched that. Curious what you find out!

 

[FrankD77]

The EVH D-tuna? I always understood that that only worked with dive-only trems, but I don't play enough drop D to have really researched that. Curious what you find out!

It does indeed. Didn't think about that

 

[FrankD77]

I picked it up today

Some people warned about the lockmeister bridge but it fits perfectly after some things you have to take care off.

The shorter intonation screws are a very good idea otherwise you can hit the body. Also the trem shaft is a few mm longer so he had to take out a few mm Wood under it. In my opinion well worth the extra work. Everything else just fell into place.

Headstock is repaired and looks great again.
Pots are replaced with mojotone and a new switch is placed. The electronics where a "hack job".

Center and neck are original pups. The bridge is a DCJ which indeed sounds great and insanely detailed. My EVOS sound fatter and have more output but the DCJ sounds like nothing else i had.

He also did a full fret job so I'm set for years

Playability i really like the neck and it's fast. When i switch to a jem i have to be honest ....the jem is superior in almost every aspect. But i have nothing else that even comes close to the jems so that's not a bad thing. I also have a vintage hamer centaur usa and for me besides the jem the charvel and that hamer are some of the best guitars i played.

 

[LazerBeakShiek]

Superstrats are a special class. SuperTelecasters like the NashSuperVegas or Charvel Model 2 could come in handy. There is something about a hot Telecaster too.

 

[FrankD77]

I have one Telecaster style guitar, i like it but somehow i always grab a superstrat when writing or practicing.

I also like my PRS especially in drop D
They all have something unique

 

[LazerBeakShiek]

Nuts are cut for a string size. A LSR ball bearing type nut or Floyd rose metal locking nut, can use any string size. String size will help you get to the other tunings with proper tension.

A stratocaster/schaller and Floyd type bridge is set for a string gauge, so it will need tensioning for that. Those 2 screws underneath.

Somehow I ended up with 3 new guitars
I sold 1 for trade in down 1 to 7
Bought 3 up to 10. that didnt go right.

 

[FrankD77]

Drop D Only lowers the top E string to D
On a floating bridge this is not so easy and fast. On a standard or fixed bridge it's a lot faster.

No need for other strings or even a neck adjust

 

[DrewPeterson7]

Drop D Only lowers the top E string to D
On a floating bridge this is not so easy and fast. On a standard or fixed bridge it's a lot faster.

No need for other strings or even a neck adjust

It might be worth trying a Tremol-No in this guitar, if the trem block is compatible; I think the clamp-type version is extremely secure, and full floating, the only impact I can feel/hear is a slightly "tighter" flutter if you whack the trem arm. It's a quick way to "block" the trem with a twist of two thumbscrews, and would allow you to then use the D-Tuna; it's not something I'd want to try mid-solo, exactly, but it's no more than a couple seconds so it's totally viable playing live.

 

[FrankD77]

I'll just grab another guitar
Don't want to change anything on my older guitars.
I'm only playing at home so i have time to change things over.

It does look like a great solution.