Tascam M520 Story...

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Ps. The instrument inputs make great ‘amps’ for guitar and bass. I’ve gotten some great clean guitar sounds just plugging direct into the console.
 
From in the field use, I can tell you the possibilities are almost endless. When I bought my first 520, I bought it from a gentleman who had ‘upgraded’ to 2 Mackie 16 channel mixers (1st generation) . He was all caught up in the Mackie buzz and wanted one for tracking and the other for returns. Poor man’s 32 channel split console?

I don’t think he had any clue what he was giving up.
Wow. I agree. That’s a major downgrade function-wise, and I would even say somewhat sonically too.
 
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Ps. The instrument inputs make great ‘amps’ for guitar and bass. I’ve gotten some great clean guitar sounds just plugging direct into the console.
I do recall, back when I had my M-520, the subject of this thread, I had several instrument preamps available, and my favorite was the M-520.
 
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I do recall, back when I had my M-520, the subject of this thread, I had several instrument preamps available, and my favorite was the M-520.
Many times just for the ‘convenience’ I’ve plugged in a guitar or bass. Nothing to set up, no mics to position etc.....
Initially the purpose was just for ‘scratch tracks’. But those tracks often made it to the final mix.
Lot of versatility with the three band semi parametric eq. Bit of reverb for some space, you’re good to go. :)
 
Does this make sense? The M-500 series consoles aren't like conventional basic mixers...Your M-520 isn't just a 20 x 8 console...it is a 20 x 8 console with a semi-configurable 16 x 2 nested within, and each of the 20 input channels can monitor, if needed, two inputs at once.
Thanks for all that. I have read it and think I'd already understood much of it, but I'm going to re-read it a few times as things open up and become even more apparent to me and how I intend to use it. It's one of the reasons I fell in love with this console... it's approachable but super complex!
I have a lot of learning to do.
My goal is still to connect the MS-16 outs through a patchbay (normalled) to TAPE IN so that if I want to dump those 16 raw tracks directly into my interface, all I have to do is patch in my 16 channel snake cable from the front of the patch bay over to my Zoom L-20 and hit record in Logic while playing back from the MS-16. Is there another more preferable way to do that? I'm not sure how much mixing I'll be using the M-520 for right off the bat, maybe more than I think considering how robust it is.
Thanks again!
 
Thanks for all that. I have read it and think I'd already understood much of it, but I'm going to re-read it a few times as things open up and become even more apparent to me and how I intend to use it. It's one of the reasons I fell in love with this console... it's approachable but super complex!
I have a lot of learning to do.
My goal is still to connect the MS-16 outs through a patchbay (normalled) to TAPE IN so that if I want to dump those 16 raw tracks directly into my interface, all I have to do is patch in my 16 channel snake cable from the front of the patch bay over to my Zoom L-20 and hit record in Logic while playing back from the MS-16. Is there another more preferable way to do that? I'm not sure how much mixing I'll be using the M-520 for right off the bat, maybe more than I think considering how robust it is.
Thanks again!
For a small format it’s and incredible versatile mixer. Sounds good too!

On mine I’ve got the tape outs normaled to the console but also to a 16 channel ADA converter. (Allen and heath ICE16)

It has no preamps which is very cool because I’m using the 520 preamps.

I can also mix the digital on the console
 
Thanks for all that. I have read it and think I'd already understood much of it, but I'm going to re-read it a few times as things open up and become even more apparent to me and how I intend to use it. It's one of the reasons I fell in love with this console... it's approachable but super complex!
I have a lot of learning to do.
My goal is still to connect the MS-16 outs through a patchbay (normalled) to TAPE IN so that if I want to dump those 16 raw tracks directly into my interface, all I have to do is patch in my 16 channel snake cable from the front of the patch bay over to my Zoom L-20 and hit record in Logic while playing back from the MS-16. Is there another more preferable way to do that? I'm not sure how much mixing I'll be using the M-520 for right off the bat, maybe more than I think considering how robust it is.
Thanks again!
Yes that is one way you can do that, there’s another way though and maybe how I’d do it. Look on the back at the jack panel. You see how directly below each “SEND” jack there’s another unlabeled jack with a vertical line in between it and the SEND jack. What that is is a parallel SEND jack, so you can “sniff” the pre fade output of each channel without interrupting a SEND/RCV insert patch or having to use those patch points. The parallel jack though is post trim and EQ, but pre fade, and it’s source follows the source selected for the channel input. So it might not work for you. It’s still a pretty clean path though because you can just have the EQ switched out, and that’s a hard bypass, and you get the benefit of the input TRIM control to maximize the level at the input of your interface. And then you still have your post fade direct out and mixing capabilities. It doesn’t interrupt any of that. So if it is just for dumping tracks, if it was me I’d use the parallel SEND jack. You could have a snake permanently hooked up to those 16 parallel jacks, and maybe THAT going to a patchbay that is normalled to your interface inputs, depending on your workflow that’s an option.
 
Yes that is one way you can do that, there’s another way though and maybe how I’d do it. Look on the back at the jack panel. You see how directly below each “SEND” jack there’s another unlabeled jack with a vertical line in between it and the SEND jack. What that is is a parallel SEND jack, so you can “sniff” the pre fade output of each channel without interrupting a SEND/RCV insert patch or having to use those patch points. The parallel jack though is post trim and EQ, but pre fade, and it’s source follows the source selected for the channel input. So it might not work for you. It’s still a pretty clean path though because you can just have the EQ switched out, and that’s a hard bypass, and you get the benefit of the input TRIM control to maximize the level at the input of your interface. And then you still have your post fade direct out and mixing capabilities. It doesn’t interrupt any of that. So if it is just for dumping tracks, if it was me I’d use the parallel SEND jack. You could have a snake permanently hooked up to those 16 parallel jacks, and maybe THAT going to a patchbay that is normalled to your interface inputs, depending on your workflow that’s an option.
Spring is our busy season in the hotel business, it's taking me a bit to get back to my studio project and to do further testing on the M-520. Thanks for your patience and your help!
Since I haven't been able to do much physically with the M-520, I've continued thinking about connectivity.... and boy oh boy, the 520 has a lot of options... and I won't really know until I start using it in production what EXACTLY will work best for me.
Lately I've been debating about how to connect the MIC Inputs, whether I should do it like the previous owner had it: They had a XLR panel with 20 XLRs and 3 TRS 1/4" jacks that, presumably, ran from the live room to the control room with XLR females to plug into the back of the 20 channels of the 520 directly, to allow mics to connected from the live room, I suspect. So no patch bay. That's the debate, how can I run a mic through a mic tube preamp (seperate rack module) into the 520. Should I connect the MIC in 520, then use SND/RCV to run it through the preamp via patch bay? But I wouldn't be able to use 48+ power from the rack preamp, I'd end up using the 520 phantom, right? PLUS, I might like to use a compressor via SND/RCV...So many choices!

PLUS, how many mics am I likely to use, recording by myself in the same room via headphones? Likely no more than 2 or 3 depending if it's acoustic guitar, hand drums, harmonica, or vocals. ugh.
 
Spring is our busy season in the hotel business, it's taking me a bit to get back to my studio project and to do further testing on the M-520. Thanks for your patience and your help!
Since I haven't been able to do much physically with the M-520, I've continued thinking about connectivity.... and boy oh boy, the 520 has a lot of options... and I won't really know until I start using it in production what EXACTLY will work best for me.
Lately I've been debating about how to connect the MIC Inputs, whether I should do it like the previous owner had it: They had a XLR panel with 20 XLRs and 3 TRS 1/4" jacks that, presumably, ran from the live room to the control room with XLR females to plug into the back of the 20 channels of the 520 directly, to allow mics to connected from the live room, I suspect. So no patch bay. That's the debate, how can I run a mic through a mic tube preamp (seperate rack module) into the 520. Should I connect the MIC in 520, then use SND/RCV to run it through the preamp via patch bay? But I wouldn't be able to use 48+ power from the rack preamp, I'd end up using the 520 phantom, right? PLUS, I might like to use a compressor via SND/RCV...So many choices!

PLUS, how many mics am I likely to use, recording by myself in the same room via headphones? Likely no more than 2 or 3 depending if it's acoustic guitar, hand drums, harmonica, or vocals. ugh.
The possibilities are endless. You can draw diagrams till the cows come home, only to discover the real world. ;)

Once you start using it, you’ll establish what works for you.

As to the mic pres. You’ll find most likely that the m520 preamps are quite good and have quite the versatility in eq capabilities.

Personally I see no need for external mic preamps unless you’re running some high dollar tube preamps.

Compressors can be running via inserts, but with the character of the board and the tape compression itself, the need is diminished greatly. I did whole records with only one compressor to my name.

At far as mics, unless you’re recording whole bands, an 8 channel snake for drums is plenty.

I had mine wired to a wall panel with female XLR plugs in the live room and only the first 16 channels. That worked out fine for Rock bands cutting basic tracks. Turned out t be plenty.



Anyway, don’t over think it. It will sort itself out once you start using it.
 
If you’re using an outboard mic preamp, you would not first plug the mic into the M-520 and patch it out and back using the SEND/RCV access points. That defeats the purpose of the outboard mic preamp. The mic goes to the outboard preamp first, then you run the line out of the outboard preamp to a line input on the M-520. Maybe I’m misunderstand what you’re saying or what your question was.

I “liked” @RFR last post because it’s all good advice and food for thought. Don’t get into the trap of overthinking it. Once you reach the point you can hook it up and take it for a spin you’ll learn quickly what you need and what you didn’t need to worry about…you’ll have more questions and things to figure out and you’ll post your questions here and we’ll help.

I also agree don’t go crazy and put in a huge snake. Hey maybe you’ll get to that point, but I like the idea of starting with an 8 channel snake and see where it goes from there. -OR- just run mic cables in the beginning…I don’t know how many you have but there’s no harm in doubling up your 25’ cables for a 50’ run if you need more length. The most important thing is to just start using it. I am TERRIBLE at following my own advice about this, but I know from experience it is 100% the best thing you can do to learn what you need and want to do. Sure, there’s stuff that has to be figured out in advance, but I guarantee somewhere in that process of just diving in and using it you will find yourself saying “Wow, why was I even thinking I needed a ______?”
 
Sure, there’s stuff that has to be figured out in advance, but I guarantee somewhere in that process of just diving in and using it you will find yourself saying “Wow, why was I even thinking I needed a ______?”
This actually just happened as deliveries came in today from last week when I "thought" I had it all figured out, and in the time since, I have rethought it and now don't need what I just bought! Arg! That's it, I have enough now to get the basics wired and going. It's time to start using, working, testing and THEN figure out what is still needed. Its the sucky thing about the online supply chain, for all the benefits on price and selection, there's no local store I can go to get cables, I have to think ahead and order then wait.
Thanks for all the help. I'll get more concise about what I'm asking in the future.
 
ITS GOOD
 

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I think the next step with the 9/10 meters is to do that redundant test of taking the signal wire from the 7/8 meters with known signal passing and connect that to meters 9/10. I should have suggested that. Good job identifying that. Do that when you can. It will determine if we have multiple issues going on; dead meters AND no signal on 9/10, or just no signal.
So, I’ve been so busy and decided to just keep working on other parts of my studio for now, I haven’t had a chance to retest using 7/8 meters. Curious though, is the only way to further diagnose this problem to open up from bottom? Can anything be done from the top Of the channel section? If so, I can easily take the top plates off to inspect. Removing the console from the desk right now is a bit more work since I’ll need to unscrew the desk a little to move it out and then up on it’s side. I DO hope to do this eventually b/c I can tell you, not being able to use the SOLO/PFL function on Stereo Master B is going to be a problem when it comes to mixing. It’s always nice to isolate a track to do eq or adding effects, etc. too. I hate that Stereo Master A isn’t working correctly.
 
So, I’ve been so busy and decided to just keep working on other parts of my studio for now, I haven’t had a chance to retest using 7/8 meters. Curious though, is the only way to further diagnose this problem to open up from bottom? Can anything be done from the top Of the channel section? If so, I can easily take the top plates off to inspect. Removing the console from the desk right now is a bit more work since I’ll need to unscrew the desk a little to move it out and then up on it’s side. I DO hope to do this eventually b/c I can tell you, not being able to use the SOLO/PFL function on Stereo Master B is going to be a problem when it comes to mixing. It’s always nice to isolate a track to do eq or adding effects, etc. too. I hate that Stereo Master A isn’t working correctly.
To further diagnose the 9/10 meter issue, the next step is that redundant test using the signal wire that goes to the 7/8 meters you suggested…pass known good signal to the 7/8 meters, and then take the signal wire from the 7/8 meters and instead connect that to the 9/10 meters. There may be multiple issues going on here. The meter amp for the 9/10 meters may be dead (and that circuit is on the PCB to which the meters are mounted) AND there may be a signal continuity problem over the circuit that feeds signal to the 9/10 meters. But I believe the fact the 9/10 meter Waite connected to the 11/12 meters gave no result (no activity on the 11/12 meters when the 9/10 signal wire was connected), means diving into the guts. Those meter signal wires come from one of the two motherboards. So that’s the next step in tracing upstream and the easiest way to get to that is from underneath, although possible you can get to the top of the motherboard with the meter bridge tilted all the way back.

As far as the PFL/SOLO issue, yes my recommendation for next steps is to get it on its side and remove the bottom panels to access the master section guts. When you get to this point I’ll want to pull out my spare master section to give you more specifi. Direction. You can’t really do this by going at it from the top. When you remove the beige dress la el you will find a solid steel panel under that; the actual chassis. If you remove all the screws and nuts fixing the boards and components to that chassis, they will drop away and the only way to get that all back together is to locate and seat everything from the bottom anyway. Don’t do it. Plus guts may come to rest on the bottom panels and cause shorts. The console was designed to be serviced from underneath. It is possible you may need to entirely remove the master section and partially disassemble to resolve the problem. I won’t know more until I pull my spare master section out.
 
To further diagnose the 9/10 meter issue, the next step is that redundant test using the signal wire that goes to the 7/8 meters you suggested…pass known good signal to the 7/8 meters, and then take the signal wire from the 7/8 meters and instead connect that to the 9/10 meters. There may be multiple issues going on here. The meter amp for the 9/10 meters may be dead (and that circuit is on the PCB to which the meters are mounted) AND there may be a signal continuity problem over the circuit that feeds signal to the 9/10 meters. But I believe the fact the 9/10 meter Waite connected to the 11/12 meters gave no result (no activity on the 11/12 meters when the 9/10 signal wire was connected), means diving into the guts. Those meter signal wires come from one of the two motherboards. So that’s the next step in tracing upstream and the easiest way to get to that is from underneath, although possible you can get to the top of the motherboard with the meter bridge tilted all the way back.

As far as the PFL/SOLO issue, yes my recommendation for next steps is to get it on its side and remove the bottom panels to access the master section guts. When you get to this point I’ll want to pull out my spare master section to give you more specifi. Direction. You can’t really do this by going at it from the top. When you remove the beige dress la el you will find a solid steel panel under that; the actual chassis. If you remove all the screws and nuts fixing the boards and components to that chassis, they will drop away and the only way to get that all back together is to locate and seat everything from the bottom anyway. Don’t do it. Plus guts may come to rest on the bottom panels and cause shorts. The console was designed to be serviced from underneath. It is possible you may need to entirely remove the master section and partially disassemble to resolve the problem. I won’t know more until I pull my spare master section out.
Thanks, I'll try that 7/8 into 9/10 meter test first, it's fairly easy to get at. Removing the console will be a days work but I would like to sort it out before I do any tracking on the MS-16 b/c I think I'd really like to be able to use the Solo function.
 
And just to make sure I’m clear, the SOLO function works, right, it just propagates to STEREO B and not STEREO A? And it’s no solution to just connect STEREO B to your monitor speakers because what’s critically missing is the SOLO buss doesn’t propagate to the headphones?
 
And just to make sure I’m clear, the SOLO function works, right, it just propagates to STEREO B and not STEREO A? And it’s no solution to just connect STEREO B to your monitor speakers because what’s critically missing is the SOLO buss doesn’t propagate to the headphones?
Let me do another test today just to make sure I'm not being misleading by not remembering correctly. I DO remember that solo did not work in headphones though. I'll get back on this today!
 
And just to make sure I’m clear, the SOLO function works, right, it just propagates to STEREO B and not STEREO A? And it’s no solution to just connect STEREO B to your monitor speakers because what’s critically missing is the SOLO buss doesn’t propagate to the headphones?
Okay, re-tested it just now. Operator error first test, glad I took another look since every day I'm learning more and more about this board.

I had the SOLO volume knob turned all the way down over by the headphones. Turned up, SOLO works in both STEREO A and STEREO B just fine... but no 9/10 meters.
Next test will be to see if any signal (7/8) is going through them or if they are dead. Stay tuned!
 
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