skywaveTDR
Active member
So much ridiculous guessing here and no a 9 volt battery will never power that motor. Stop listening to dumb people with their wives tales.
I have worked on many decks with bad motors. You can have up to 33Vdc to the motor and this is not wrong as the large transistor does
the control of the motor in the ground section. So on the negative side there can be 14Vdc.
If a motor doe snot turn when appropriate voltages are there on the motor board then the next step is to see if the TO-220 transistor on the heat sink is open or not. If it is not as tested with a DVM in diode test then it is time to open up the motor. When turning a motor and I hear a crusty sound then the motor is already burned up. People do this all the time dragging a deck out of the closet and plug it in and with a sticky belt burn up a $175 motor. If you open a motor up be careful when removing the end cap of the inside case. The reason is the brushes are around the commutator and the pulling this cap off any old way will wreck the brushes. What I do is remove the upper case while maintaining the rotor in the end cap then use 30 gauge telco wires in the holes of the brushes to extract then so the rotor and commutator can be taken out. This unit can have a BR20 capstan motor mounted on a working servo card and it will work. I have also put them in X2000R and X1000R decks as well.
I was the lead Tech at the Chicago factory service back in the 80's. You can contact me directly if you wish.
I have worked on many decks with bad motors. You can have up to 33Vdc to the motor and this is not wrong as the large transistor does
the control of the motor in the ground section. So on the negative side there can be 14Vdc.
If a motor doe snot turn when appropriate voltages are there on the motor board then the next step is to see if the TO-220 transistor on the heat sink is open or not. If it is not as tested with a DVM in diode test then it is time to open up the motor. When turning a motor and I hear a crusty sound then the motor is already burned up. People do this all the time dragging a deck out of the closet and plug it in and with a sticky belt burn up a $175 motor. If you open a motor up be careful when removing the end cap of the inside case. The reason is the brushes are around the commutator and the pulling this cap off any old way will wreck the brushes. What I do is remove the upper case while maintaining the rotor in the end cap then use 30 gauge telco wires in the holes of the brushes to extract then so the rotor and commutator can be taken out. This unit can have a BR20 capstan motor mounted on a working servo card and it will work. I have also put them in X2000R and X1000R decks as well.
I was the lead Tech at the Chicago factory service back in the 80's. You can contact me directly if you wish.