Soundtracs MX Story...

  • Thread starter Thread starter sweetbeats
  • Start date Start date
It happens to all channels, and all outputs from Aux to main LR are all the same, I want to send a picture but can't.
.. I measured it using Smartlive input Pinknoise smartlive,,
 
So you input pink noise and you used some type of analyzer to monitor the output?

[EDIT]

Do you mean Smaartlive?

What are you using to generate the pink noise?

What does it look like when you analyze the output of the pink noise generator? If you take the console out of the loop?

And what kind of audio interface are you using?

Am I hopefully correct in assuming this all started because you were using the console with music program material and the LF range didn’t sound right?
 
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That's right, sir ... I analyzed the output one by one, both from the LR out and tape out in the channel ... All the results are the same ... Is the output frequency of the soundtrac mixer like that ... or is there something that needs to be changed ... because this mixer is for Automatic PVC MIDI is no longer, .. Only functioned as Analog ..

---------- Update ----------

How can I send a picture to you, sir ...
 
See my edits above.

Also, I don’t know what automatic PVC is.
 
After so many posts you can post a picture here, or upload the pic to any free web image hosting site and put a link in this thread to the image.
 
So, the pink noise is flat, I enter it into the mixer input. Then my mixer output is input into the Smartlive input, and analyzed ...What I mean by PVC is ... The automatic controller of the MIDI recording in sountracs logic
 
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What are you using to generate the pink noise?

What is your audio interface for the computer?
 
Can you chat me on Whatshap / FB, I will give you my contact ,, please this is very important to me ..
 
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I appreciate your faith in me, but I’m not familiar with your console or it’s MIDI automation system. I don’t have any technical documentation for the Solo Logic.

I think you need to contact these people:

Studio Systems - The home where the Soundtracs roam

Also, I suggest you edit your last post and remove your contact information. A public forum is not a good place to post this information. Just suggesting for your safety.
 
okay sir, can you give me instructions for modification to add bass tones .. add possible components ..
 
I have the scheme, if you can help me make modifications to add bass tone ..
 
You're welcome. I'm sorry I could not be of more help, but your problem is complex. You should be able to post an image of the analyzer scan. I would be interested to see this.
 
Greetings Sweetbeats!. Excellent story, really enjoyed this, thanks...

Appreciate it has been many years since but just wondered if you recall which bridge recs you put in PSU when upgrading and doing the heatsink mod? Currently putting new caps in MRX and ordered new same recs to replace but then see that you swapped out for higher quality parts.. No worries if cannot recall, just thought i’d ask ; )
 
Hi there. Saw your questions on my YouTube channel as well...haven't had a chance to respond. I can't recall the specific parts that were used...there were a number of changes. There was nothing special about the bridges, per se, but higher amperage and the key change was relocating them to the backplane with the heatsink mod. IIRC the regulators for the audio rails are discrete; those were replaced with better quality transistors...then there was recapping with some changes in values and bypassing with small value parts for better HF filtering, and then ALLLLLLLL the grounding mods. I'm sure I can dig up specific info, but the parts list and instructions were proprietary from The Soundtracs Guy. I'm not sure if he is still in business. He still has a Facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/SoundtracsGuy/

Try and reach him. PM me if you are not successful...I may have alternate means of reaching him.
 
sweetbeats said:
Hi there. Saw your questions on my YouTube channel as well...haven't had a chance to respond. I can't recall the specific parts that were used...there were a number of changes. There was nothing special about the bridges, per se, but higher amperage and the key change was relocating them to the backplane with the heatsink mod. IIRC the regulators for the audio rails are discrete; those were replaced with better quality transistors...then there was recapping with some changes in values and bypassing with small value parts for better HF filtering, and then ALLLLLLLL the grounding mods. I'm sure I can dig up specific info, but the parts list and instructions were proprietary from The Soundtracs Guy. I'm not sure if he is still in business. He still has a Facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/SoundtracsGuy/

Try and reach him. PM me if you are not successful...I may have alternate means of reaching him.
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Thank you.. I will have a read through the posts on the Facebook page... I have the new bridges now and caps ready to install this weekend, had to go for radial nichicon for the larger caps due to limited stock in UK. Should be fun putting those in! Your ground mods were awesome and would love to do star grounding for each channel one day when I have time.

Do you think that mounting the recs underneath even without the heatsink mod would be beneficial? I guess it makes sense that cooler air would be underneath. It gets sos hot, just like my Topaz Internal PSU did...

I have found your post very helpful and inspiring : ) Going to put in some bypass 2200pf ceramic Kemet caps.. Unfortunately the Soundtracs logo still won't light up after replacing all 4 fuses with new ones, real shame : ( Will keep tinkering to see what could be causing it to not light up. Any suggestions? I asked Tim here at Studio systems in UK, he advised ,me to leave it as not worth the risk on such on old console which is understandable, I am determined though!.. Just had some new wood cut for the sides as they were in a pretty bad state, will give them a nice dark blue spray : )
 
...had to go for radial nichicon for the larger caps due to limited stock in UK. Should be fun putting those in!
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So sometimes you have to do that. If you have any Teflon tubing or even vinyl tubing or heat shrink to put over any longer exposed tails of the radial cap you should do that.



...Your ground mods were awesome and would love to do star grounding for each channel one day when I have time.
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Thank for the compliments, but the credit goes to a couple smart guys that were more than helping me. I learned a lot. There really were three main components to the ground mods...localizing all the grounding to each of the channel cards and jack PCBs, eliminating all the ground loops on the channel cards, and completely revising the grounding between the power supply and the frame. Oh and I guess there would be a fourth component, positively bonding all sections of the frame to each other and the PSU chassis to that...it’s kind of a mess from the factory but that wasn’t necessarily uncommon.



Do you think that mounting the recs underneath even without the heatsink mod would be beneficial?
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No. It’s not about putting them in cooler air; placing them lower in the chassis. That’s completely inconsequential. It’s about allowing heat to escape. If you put them under the PCB it’s like adding a layer of insulation over them. And the heat transmission via a heat sink is orders of magnitude more effective than radiating heat into the air space. The bridges really really really need to be bonded to a heat sink.



I guess it makes sense that cooler air would be underneath. It gets sos hot, just like my Topaz Internal PSU did...
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Heat kills. Period.



Going to put in some bypass 2200pf ceramic Kemet caps..
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That’s too small. Typically one would use something like 0.01uF for HF filtering.



Unfortunately the Soundtracs logo still won't light up after replacing all 4 fuses with new ones, real shame : (
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You’re not literally using fuses there right? Those are light bulbs...fuse style incandescent lamps. I don’t recall if the lamp circuit there is powered by AC or DC, but if it is DC then you have to mind the polarity of the lamps. So verify you’ve got the right type of lamps, that they are all good, and then look in your service manual to verify the lamp power rail type (AC or DC) and if DC make sure you’ve got the lamps oriented correctly as far as polarity.
 
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