Making a Gibson SG Clone

  • Thread starter Thread starter Neve1073lover
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Again, beautiful work. I expect to be saying that a few more times.

I don't really paint guitars (I have on occasion), and I never spray at night not because I can't see well, but because of the bugs that inevitably fly into the finish.

I learned that concept back in 1988, when I painted my first hot-rod end to end in the early evening, and spent 3 days hand-sanding out mosquitos and gnats.

Very nice work there.
 
Hey Muttley

How long do YOU wait before you sand back the first 2 coats?

A lot depends on what you are using. Typically for nitro I have a spray booth that has positive air pressure and extraction as well as a bit of heating so it will shorten the gassing off time considerably. I can load up six coats with light cutting back in a day. I then let it stand for a few days and test it with my fingernail. It shouldn't mark with anything more than the type of touch you use on a cell phone key pad.

At that point I'll load up two heavier top coats and let it stand for a week maybe ten days and cut back and buff out.

If you don't have a dedicated area with air flow and a little heat in the room then you can double that. It does depend a lot on your local environment but it's better to go slow than rush it. The guitar is going to last decades so a few week are on the finishing is worth it. A lot will also depend on how evenly and lightly you have built the finish. As I say go light first and then aim for an even heavier top coat once it is dry and you've cut back to a nice flat base to shoot over.

If your using a spray gun, adding a little flow out additive can help get an even finish and also a little retarding agent if it's going tacky before it's leveled out. A lot of this is really down to feel and experience. Test on scrap and junkers to get the nack. I will often call the supplier if I'm trying a new product and ask their advice as well. Most are really helpful.
 
Again, beautiful work. I expect to be saying that a few more times.

I don't really paint guitars (I have on occasion), and I never spray at night not because I can't see well, but because of the bugs that inevitably fly into the finish.

I learned that concept back in 1988, when I painted my first hot-rod end to end in the early evening, and spent 3 days hand-sanding out mosquitos and gnats.

Very nice work there.

Yep those thunderbugs really like a bit of solvent for some reason. We've all been there, even with a pretty decent spray booth.:o
 
I wet sanded the surface back and have put on two coats. Now ready to polish. Need to wait another two weeks or so.

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A couple of spots on the back of the neck need building up slightly with nitro. Will use a fine paintbrush and build up slowly.

Next project will be an acoustic. Following 'Step-By-Step Guitar Making' by Alex Willis. Template:

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I will only post interesting bits, if at all.

Will post again after polishing.
 
When you do that take the trhead to the guitar forum. You'll get a LOT of help there.
 
Nearly Done

Need to do the nut, electronics etc

Not the best spray job, though OK.

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Yikes, you might want to sand that smooth and build it up a little more - it looks like you haven't even completely filled the pores.
 
Yikes, you might want to sand that smooth and build it up a little more - it looks like you haven't even completely filled the pores.

Most mahogany benefits from a good grain filler. Trying to fill with a build of lacquer is never really the best way.
 
Most mahogany benefits from a good grain filler. Trying to fill with a build of lacquer is never really the best way.

Ain't that the truth. I was lied to by a manufacturer who said their finish could be used as filler. 752 coats later :(
 
I used pore filler. I will sand back and put more nitro on later.

Not happy....
 
I don;t know if it's too late to apply more, but... Maybe it;s worse in pictures than real live, but in the photo it looks like a tung oil finish rather than a clearcoat.
 
I can apply more clear. I am going to set up the action and see (hear?) how it sounds. My son did the electronics yesterday and we strung it up. Sounded pretty good (worked first time...) but action very high. Will adjust and make sure all will work and sound OK before putting more time into it.

Will then sand the clear back and apply more.

Without wanting to 'blame my tools'.... I have found whilst coating the guitar that my compressor loses pressure very rapidly when spray painting and it drops below 45 lb after 2-3 spray 'passes' across the body. Given I always did the neck first, the neck looks terrific and the body is patchy. Also the nitro needs 50% thinning I have found by experience. I have been using 20%.

So I will be trying to adjust my compressor to keep up the pressure (may also be the bleed valve) and having another go.

It actually looks pretty good in real life. I need to get more coats on though.
 
Bought a new quality regulator today and does not drop pressure.

Worth checking whether your compressor is up the task for spray painting.
 
This thing done?

I have been overseas on holiday for 5 weeks...

I have taken the body back to bare wood and redoing the stain and clear.

Doing a lot better job with better air pressure regulation.

Will post pics sometime.
 
I have taken it all back to very smooth finish and decided to go black to save a lot of effort. The new pressure regulator works very well.

2 black tint coats ready for clear:

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