Disassembling FATAR keyboard to clean - Help!

  • Thread starter Thread starter Toddskins
  • Start date Start date
Fatar 76-key semi-weighted to replace a Fatar 88-key weighted action

Nice thread, guys.

Any idea if I could replace my Korg Triton Extreme 88's Fatar TP/31 that is insanely stiff and heavy with a TP/8SK 76 ?

This guy has swapped the contact boards between a weighted and a semi-weighted succesfully, both 88-key though.

* no way I could add a link, just search Youtube for "PC3transplantPART2.wmv"

Thanks.
 
Hi all,

Another query re. an old SL-880 which I just got hold of. All the keys are great, but the keyboard is continuously emitting Control Change Main Volume midi messages, even when it's not being played. I presume this is an issue with the main PCB - any ideas on how to fix? if anyone has a schematic I am happy to replace parts on the board - it's all through hole parts.
 
Hi Everyone,
So this is my first post, so bear with me. I have a FATAR/StudioLogic SL-880 which was sitting in the basement for some time. I will start cleaning it out soon. However, when I opened the "hood" all cable connections where lose and got disconnected. So I dont know where the 2 AWG cable go (right side of keyboard goes on the top the bottom of the circuit board?) and the 2 side strips connections which one goes to which? Does anyone have a picture to share? That would be very helpful. I dont want to plug thos into the wrong slots and then have something happen to my beloved :-).

Thanks,
 
Hi,

I have a Studiologic numa concert I bought used a couple of months ago. One key started to be sticky so I opened it, removed all keys, added grease on hammers and and the end of keys and it seemed to do the trick, but now I'm starting to have many sticky keys, some very sticky, so I opened it again, removed keys, cleaned the grease on sticky keys, hammers and everything seem to move freely but once I installed the key back it does not rise back in position even with keys around removed, even with pcb and rubber contacts removed. All sticky keys are white keys, black keys seem to behave properly so far. So now I'm really wondering what I could do to get the keyboard working again. I'm thinking of buying stronger springs but so far I haven't found 3.5mm diameter springs. Any help would be appreciated, thx.
 
OK, I've just realized that "rubber" is not the rubber above contacts but the one at the very end of the key (opposite to fulcrum) and yes this is crearly the issue, I managed to remove it from a stickey key and it doesn't stick anymore, so shaving it might be the best option.
 
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I just finished pulling apart two 88 key fatar keyboards and cleaning all the contacts. I didn't have to pull the keys off, although that was fairly simple. The circuit boards unscrewed from the back of the action, take them off, peel off the contacts, use qtips and alcohol clean the board contacts and the rubber pads where they contact. When reassembling, start at one end of each strip, push the larger feet into the board and go back to the smaller feet and push them in. Repeat this along the whole strip. I have done this quite a few times and through trial and error found this the best way to get the pads back on the boards.
 
Number 6 said:
Hi,

I have a Studiologic numa concert I bought used a couple of months ago. One key started to be sticky so I opened it, removed all keys, added grease on hammers and and the end of keys and it seemed to do the trick, but now I'm starting to have many sticky keys, some very sticky, so I opened it again, removed keys, cleaned the grease on sticky keys, hammers and everything seem to move freely but once I installed the key back it does not rise back in position even with keys around removed, even with pcb and rubber contacts removed. All sticky keys are white keys, black keys seem to behave properly so far. So now I'm really wondering what I could do to get the keyboard working again. I'm thinking of buying stronger springs but so far I haven't found 3.5mm diameter springs. Any help would be appreciated, thx.
Click to expand...
Try MSC, they have a very large assortment of springs. They are expensive, if you find something that works try finding it using the part no. etc. at another cheaper site.
Graingers may have them also.
www.mscdirect.com

MSC Industrial Supply - Metalworking tools and MRO Supplies

MSC Industrial Supply is the source for your metalworking tool and MRO needs. Over 1.5 million products from industry leading suppliers in stock and ready to ship
www.mscdirect.com www.mscdirect.com

 
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