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ShellShock said:this wont collapse my floor will it![]()
That would really suck if it did! I'd definately find out the specifics of your floor.
ShellShock said:this wont collapse my floor will it![]()

Excellent idea.I gotta find a way to see how much weight this piece of crap place can hold..SHIT!
I would have thought the lightbulb would have come on when I first mentioned the "problem".
Thats what happens in the booth with a mic adjacent to a REFLECTIVE surface.


ShellShock said:I hate to freakin say it but shit...this shitty place I got cant handle no freakin 1000lb weight![]()
You know what Rick if you wanna go on with the prodject go ahead kuz im sure others want to learn how to do this..as for me Im just gonna have to throw another dream of mine in the fuckin trash kuz I aint got no MONEY to afford a better place...
You know if I ever get another place and you do end up going on with the project Im gonna come back here and follow the instructions you put down..if you do go on with the project that is...
I think it would be pretty cool though if you would still provide intructions on how to do something like this...
I would have never expected making it so my voice doesnt travel to the room below would be so hard...
When I first started this I thought I could just stop the sound from going through the floor and not worry about the room...but I guess the walls really do matter though huh?
My fuckin piece of shit ass home cant take the pressure though...![]()
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Hello Shellshock Well, what can I say exceptI hate to freakin say it but shit...this shitty place I got cant handle no freakin 1000lb weight
Alas, I am stumped. Unless someone can design a new set of physics.
Damn. Like I said too, I'm no expert so maybe someone who IS, can pipe in here with a usefull alternative. At this point, I know of nothing else.I do hope Rick keeps goin with the plan.
However, I'm going to research some things first. I was tryin to rush this design through and fill in the blanks as you needed. But I would truly like to have some calculated specs on this, and find the CORRECT wieght/compression calcs for the best bang for the buck ISOLATOR. I have a pretty good idea for the venting solution, seals, knockdown construction and the materials. Now I want to KNOW what TRANSMISSION LOSS can be expected. Although, like some professionals have told me, unless you have it scientifically tested in a lab, calcs will only tell you so much. But since this is a DIY type scenario, and "I" don';t have the resources to build one, let alone to have the design tested, needless to say....its pretty much guesswork right now. But its based on solid isolation concepts, so it should meet at least your criteria. Frankly, given the time, I would also like to draw a Booth design with NO compromises other than space. But later on that.
It has taken ME twenty years of frustration, moves, disappointments, life changing events, aging, and more. Yet, I WON"T give up. My motive is simple. I'm a Saggitarius.
I started this and I'll finish it if it kills me. Which it probably will since it already broke me.
So, don't give up. In the meantime, keep doing what you CAN do to keep your interest alive. Hell, I spent the entire winter just working on my console cause I had no money for even the flooring in my studio. So, don't feel alone.
Just a little reality check in regards to Joels "criteria"....Also, for better isolation, it's best to decople the inner "leaf" from the outer.
This factor alone limits your choices to "decouple" one leaf from the other. To build a "composite" booth, where you have a complete "interior leaf" DECOUPLED" from the "exterior leaf", makes for VERY PRECISION machining and fabrication of the components. Besides, the only rational "decoupling" mechanism for KNOCKDOWN units, are very expensive RISC isolators of various kinds. But here is the rational for MY current design for this THREAD. This design is basically a 2 Leaf "floating room" Not much mass, no decoupling other than to the floor, since the criteria.o yea, it has to be movable to, meaning i can take it apart and move it somewhere else.
Simply assembling these requires a good sized space. Another is PRECISION CUTTING and Assembly. These "simple" boxes, are NOT that simple when it comes to fabricating the modules. Believe me. There are TONS of little tricks and setups to make it come out correctly. ONE ASSUMPTION, such as assuming a 2x4 is 2"x4" will KILL all your planning. Even if you are aware of a 2x4 actually being 1 1/2"x3 1/2", assuming they are ALL EXACTLY that size is a lesson in hindsights. Thats why ALL framing material should be either air or kiln dried GOOD LUMBER. And NEVER depend on the nominal, from the factory dimensions. ALWAYS rip your lumber to the dimension it is supposed to be, OR to the next smallest size in 1/16", 1/8" or even 1/4". In other words, RESAW all 2x2 to 1 1/2"x 1/1/2" or smaller IN BOTH DIMENSIONS. In otherwards, resaw the compnent lumber to sizes you CAN DEPEND ON. When it comes time to gluing and screwing panels to frames, YOU WILL SEE!! Another thing is ABSOLUTE SQUARENESS of the panels themselves. Because of the way sheetgoods are cut to length in the factory, you can't really depend on a panels short side being perfectly square to the long side. I ALWAYS route ONE short side square to the long side BEFORE I cut parts. And doing this is a pain in the ass if you don't have a few clamps, a good straight edge, and at LEAST a carbide blade on a skill saw, if not carbide cutters in a router. Sure, if you have FULL depth studs. Probably pay premium price though compared to regular batt insulation.Also, will this stuff work for in between the drywall?
The PANELS hold the fram in place. Simply screw the frame together with butt joints, run a bead of construction adheseive on one face of the frame, and lay a panel on the frame. If you have enough clamps, clamp one edge of the frame even with one long edge of the panel, and then square the frame to the panel if it has parallelegramed. But here is a reality. Don't assume anything when it comes to cutting frame parts. Always clamp each piece in place as you measure and cut till the whole frame is temporarily laid on the panel. This way you have NO surprises. This is why I suggested RESAWING your framing material. I even go so far as to surface them on a planer. As far as a door, try to use a standard solidcore door and JAMB assembly. Much easier than fabricating a jamb and hinging the door yourself. As far as ventilation is concerned, I'm planning on using computer fans with a computer power supply or 12v wall wart. A couple PULLING out hot air, and a couple supplying fresh air. I haven't designed a plenum within the walls yet or an isolated/decoupled fan/ducting but I just built my computer isolation cabinet using the same system and it works great. I built small thin plywood plenums with fans mounted in decoupled foam housings, and foamboard ducting. See it here(I haven't posted the finished pics yet. This is just the concept. Actual unit will be different for the booth.I dont know what im going to use to hold the frame together and i also need to plan how the door and ventalation is going to work...
ShellShock said:I hate to freakin say it but shit...this shitty place I got cant handle no freakin 1000lb weight![]()