Telecaster guitar project

mine was a blem (that I've never found ) and I got it for $140! It was gonna be my beach guitar but I liked it so much it was my main gigging axe for about a year.

So you're going with gold metalflake ..... big or small flakes?
It's s serious decision .... I had an old Mosrite bass I did in red/silver and blue metalflake .... I used small flakes for that and greg's looks like a medium size ..... I'm kinda partial to large flakes because of all the light they scatter but they can be hard to get a smooth finish over.

Yeah some of the Gretsch Duo-Jets or Silver Jet whatever they're called have a large flake that looks spectacular.
 
mine was a blem (that I've never found ) and I got it for $140! It was gonna be my beach guitar but I liked it so much it was my main gigging axe for about a year.

So you're going with gold metalflake ..... big or small flakes?
It's s serious decision .... I had an old Mosrite bass I did in red/silver and blue metalflake .... I used small flakes for that and greg's looks like a medium size ..... I'm kinda partial to large flakes because of all the light they scatter but they can be hard to get a smooth finish over.
Big flakes of course!
I'm not going to attempt spraying the flakes. I'm going to modify a salt shaker and shake them on the guitar body. First I'm going to paint it gold (or black...haven't made up my mind on that yet). Then after the color coat is completely dry I'm going to shoot a wet coat of clear nitro and the cover it with flakes. After that completely dries its just a matter of building the clear coat up to the point where it can be leveled without a sand through.
I may cheat a little biT though...I have a freind that owns a body shop and I may hang the body up at his place after I apply the flakes. He can hit it with that automotive clear when he is spraying a car. About 3 of those coats would be enough...instead of 20 coats of nitro.
 
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Big flakes of course!
I'm not going to attempt spraying the flakes. I'm going to modify a salt shaker and shake them on the guitar body. First I'm going to paint it gold (or black...haven't made up my mind on that yet). Then after the color coat is completely dry I'm going to shoot a wet coat of clear nitro and the cover it with flakes. After that completely dries its just a matter of building the clear coat up to the pointer can be leveled without a sand through.
that's basically how I did my Mosrite. It worked well.

Allow mne to warn ya' though ..... it takes a LOT of clear coats before you get it that built up.
 
I built a 1951 Nocaster several years ago. Researched, bought a book or two, designed it to look like a new 1951 Nocaster. I bought the 2-piece body and neck from Warmoth and they did a custom vintage NOS Tele blond finish. Big fat neck. The only thing I don't like is the discrepancy between the "look" of the neck and the look of the body, but that is very minor. Fender CS Nocaster neck and bridge pups. 1-ply pickguard. "Vintage" 3 barrel brass bridge. It does have a 4-way switch and modern wiring. There was a use for the vintage wiring scheme in the 1950s, but there is no longer any reason to wire a Tele that way. I love, LOVE this guitar. Some friends ask how much it costs, and I tell them $750, which is the truth. Then they ask why not just BUY a guitar for the same price or less. I tell them a) I wouldn't have a Nocaster because I can't afford the $2K from Fender's CS, b) I wouldn't have something unique that I built.

I look forward to pics of your build, Jimi. Definitely update. *subscribed*

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I built a 1951 Nocaster several years ago. Researched, bought a book or two, designed it to look like a new 1951 Nocaster. I bought the 2-piece body and neck from Warmoth and they did a custom vintage NOS Tele blond finish. Big fat neck. The only thing I don't like is the discrepancy between the "look" of the neck and the look of the body, but that is very minor. Fender CS Nocaster neck and bridge pups. 1-ply pickguard. "Vintage" 3 barrel brass bridge. It does have a 4-way switch and modern wiring. There was a use for the vintage wiring scheme in the 1950s, but there is no longer any reason to wire a Tele that way. I love, LOVE this guitar. Some friends ask how much it costs, and I tell them $750, which is the truth. Then they ask why not just BUY a guitar for the same price or less. I tell them a) I wouldn't have a Nocaster because I can't afford the $2K from Fender's CS, b) I wouldn't have something unique that I built.

I look forward to pics of your build, Jimi. Definitely update. *subscribed*

View attachment 81565
That is a sweet Tele.
I had a setback on my Tele project. I had to cough up $1000 for my daughter to buy college books. She has more than enough scholarship money to cover them but it dosen't come in until Nov. and they won't charge them and let her settle up when the money comes in.

I didn't plan on that.

It seems a lot of kids have been applying for grants and scholarships, enrolling in college, charging books....and when the money comes in they take the money and drop out of school. The campus book store then gets stiffed for the books they let the students have on credit.

I understand why the want the money up front now but it wiped out my Tele project funds.

So it my take a month before I can get the neck and other parts.
I already have the body on the way.
 
My dad was a body & fender man and my first P-bass was built from scrap. It took about 4 coats to get the superflake covered enough to buff smooth. But that was in the 70's and we used some HUGE flake that he had left over from a custom job on a '69 Corvette. Go with the black base. IMO you'll be happier. You want a good contrast between your base and the flake and gold on gold may not provide that. Course subtlety has its place, too.

I used silver superflake over blue. Looked awesome. Used that guitar from '74 to '85.
 
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