Tascam M-___ Story...

Well makes sense. When the 35v went, the current was probably high enough through the "fuzzy" connector(s) to "fix" the connection (nothing like a little arc to help continuity). We've probably experienced this is one way or the other. My truck radio has a channel that drops volume and gets noisy, all you do is goose the volume and its good for a while (never long enough to get the warranty claim through though :mad: ).
My instructors back in middle school (where I first started taking electronics classes) drilled into us CHECK THE POWER SUPPLIES FIRST, and when you are done, check them again. It has served me very well over the years.
 
Yeah this is good progress. I still have a problem with the PGM BUSS amps in each I/O module generating a crap-ton of broadband noise.

But before I thought my sputtering/fitzing/popping sounds were related. I now know I've had two separate problems going on...the aforementioned random noise, and an unusably high noise floor throughout the mixer.

I know the noise is coming from that opamp, and I'm working with some brainiacs to test and try and figure out why it's doing that. But at least I know *where* the noise is coming from, and that it is common to all 12 of the I/O modules which would lead me to believe there is either a design flaw, or an assembly error. Either way, I'm on the hunt.

Looking forward to tackling this issue. With my testing and work on the console this past week I've been monitoring music off several of the outputs and I'm remembering how nice it sounds. Being able to get the noise floor to a more nominal level would be a huge gain.

Oh...some pics of the rewiring I did last night...wires from the internal side of the main power connector go along the back of the motherboard...+/-15V regulated, +/-26V unregulated, and +48V phantom power...and they interface the motherboard on this connector:

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The connector uses pin sockets that easily spread and have dimples for contact, which reduce the contact area. The just don't work. Even after re-crimping and cleaning I was still able to hear noise in the audio outputs when physically manipulating a particular wire.

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So I removed the pins from the motherboard...

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Clipped off the cable end sockets and soldered the wires directly to he motherboard. Much, much better.

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I also did the same for another smaller connector where the +6V connects to the motherboard, and re-routed its ground.

Hooked it all back up and the frame powers without smoke. :D

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Unfortunately, no. There is still a constant noise floor problem which is related to one of the amp stages on each I/O module. Working through that with some help.
 
I can't begin to recount the hypotheses and tests that have been exercised this past week trying to nail down just what is going on with the power supply...there is nasty AC in the 15V bipolar regulated DC supply that powers all the audio circuits in the mixer. I just can't nail down *why*. Here is a great example of the crazy-ass wave forms in getting on the scope display...this is probing the positive output of the bridge rectifier...this is naturally before the before the regulator, so it is reasonable to expect *some* ripple, but this???

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My gut keeps telling me it's a problem with the bridge, but that's not necessarily what I'm being guided toward. So I'm doing some hammer-mechanic testing if my theory. I'm swapping input connections around where the main transformer connects to the inputs of the power supply PCB. I think I have ruled out a failure of the main transformer at this point. I'm about to sub in the bridge from the other bipolar power supply, and if the 15V supply is behaving appropriately with the swap that will tell me it is a problem with the bridge.

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And I swapped in new regulators just now and mounted them back on the PCB as from the factory to take my backplane mounting modification out of the loop. Still no improvement.

I'm at my wits end. WTH is the problem with this PS-520 power supply?!?
 
So I'm struggling with a couple silly things...this is what happens when things get really, really daunting (this issue with the power supply)...I tend to recess and get distracted by something that is really of no consequence.

The first is the color of the EQ section knob caps. They are all still the putty color, like all the knob caps were when I first got the mixer (except for the BUSS MASTER knobs...they've always been red). Anyway, its just visually challenging to pick the right pot when I want to tweak something. It looks like this...the line of 8 putty colored pots...the 9th one at the bottom is the STEREO PAN control:

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So I wanted to do something with color. But there are only 5 different colors of knob caps (red, green, blue, orange and putty), and I've designated green for the monitor buss, red for master level on summing busses, and orange as level controls. Blue knob caps are super rare, and I don't believe any Tascam products ever had blue on the smaller stacked pots. So then I wondered about dyeing the plastic...I thought about having every other knob of the 8 in the EQ section be dark chocolate brown...this is an accent color Tascam used in the fader slider caps on some models, so that provided the Teac tie-in...I read up on dying plastics, bought some dark brown RIT dye and followed the instructions using some spare putty-colored parts from an old 234 parts nightmare. It was a total fail. So, unless there is some other way to dye plastics, I am back to sticking with all putty, or using other standard colors...I have 24+ small green knob caps, over 36 of the small orange, and a dozen small red ones...and then I think I have 9 of the large orange, and some odds and ends. I know I'm over-thinking this, but the logic of the color scheme is important to me, to the point I've taken considerable care in rearranging the colors of the switch caps too...but the practicality of visually breaking up the little river of putty in the EQ section. I'd really love any thoughts anybody has on this or ideas however grand or small.

The *other* thing I'm grappling with is this...its always bugged me that the PGM group and STEREO PAN controls on the M-__ have no center detent. I don't know why they did that...maybe that's what was on-hand in the custom shop...but that's 24 PAN knobs that I have to look to see if they are centered...can't do it by feel. I have a somewhat janky M312 I'll be selling at some point that happens to have the exact same PAN pots, only with center detent...22 of them...part of me wants to swap PAN pots...crazy, right? But I would do that...I'm used to the idea that PAN pots should have a center detent. But then I was thinking about it further placement in the stereo field isn't done by looking at the position of the pot...it *should* be done by ear. And how often is stuff dead center anyway? On the PGM groups I'm normally going to have that thing hard R or hard L to isolate a signal to one group, and the STEREO PAN will often be something other than center except for things like lead vocal...or whatever the centerpiece of the song is. So am I splitting hairs too much? I need somebody to talk some sense into me...maybe no center detent is more common than I think?

I'm still working on the power supply. I think I'm making some incremental gains on the disparate ripple issue between the +15V and -15V rails...but I've been pretty busy and have to order parts, and I have to figure out what parts first. Anyway, the important task at hand (the power supply) isn't dead in the water...just catching my breath I think, but those two issues above are kind of driving me bonkers a little. Any input anybody?
 
Here's one a little out of the box. Vinyl upholstery paint and this

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That upholstery paint is super durable. The template is a masking tool.... pick a knob size......

I'd give it a try (on an old knob.... ;) )
 
Autozone, Home Depot or a boat place.....

I tried upholstery paint in the 1980's... it was crap. It would rub off on your clothes and faded in the sun. A buddy talked me into trying it again a couple of years ago on tractor knob and it never wore off..... They must have improved it..... If you do try it, rough up the plastic surface with some really fine grit sandpaper.

I've never tried it on a mixer knob, but it just might be crazy enough to work :)
 
They use that stuff on auto interiors for plastics all the time. Even guys with vintage Porsches.
Also, another ootion is Krylon designed for plastic outdoor furnuture.

With the tops that come off, no need for a template. Just clean, scuff and spray.
 
I forgot those knob top pops off..... No matter though..... EVERYBODY needs a circle template :D .......
 
I'll have to seriously look into that.

Does that seem like an over-the-top mod to do? Like into the realm of desecration?

And anybody have any thoughts about the whole pan pot center detent issue?
 
I use the plastic paints designed for car interiors with great success on all things plastic. I am also lucky enough to have an auto body supply store just down the street. They will even mix and or match colors with the plastic paint so the pallet is basically infinate!

I like the center detent pots, although as you say is that detent really at the middle electrically? I can't imagine not having them on all the EQ cut/boost pots as well as the pan pots, so easy to zero the board.
 
I'm waiting for a parts order to come, and then I can get back to the power supply. In the meantime I'm tasked to draw up the schematic for the discrete output level boost circuit for the BUSS OUT jacks...the circuit boosts the level from -10dBV, to +4dBu. The circuit is powered by what is labeled on the PCB as +/-35V. Because this mixer seems to be a prototype that became the M-50 and after that the M-512/520, I always assumed the +4dBu level boost circuit was powered by +/-18V, but in my mixer I've always been under the impression the power regulation occurred up in the mixer at each level boost circuit on each module, and so I assumed the +/-35V was unregulated. So that's what I've been feeding those circuits...I don't have +/-35V in the supply...if you pull the +/-18V regulators out of those power rails they produce about +/-26V raw DC. That's what I been feeding those circuits. It's dawned on me I might be wrong all these years regarding my assumption the power was to be unregulated. So I need to draw up the circuit. I'm thinking the TO-126 transistors on the little heat sink on the modules isn't power regulation but power transistors...and the circuit should be fed regulated power. So I need to draw it up and have it analyzed. The level boost stuff *works*, but I'm having a noise floor issue and thinking it might be exacerbated by having raw power where it should be regulated.
 
+/- 35V Rails are certainly not required for a +4dB buss. Should run well on supplies much lower and regulated in the P/S.
 
Yeah exactly. That's why I assumed the power was raw. The assembly may have been designed to accommodate other circuits though...it's a prototype. There are all sorts of unpopulated lands on the PGM PCB...the STEREO OUT is switcheable -10dBv, +4dbu, and +8dBu. And there are spots where other boost cards could be mounted...and holes punched for more XLR jacks on the backplane chassis of each I/O module. So who knows. My goal is to find out what is actually needed this go-around, and then do it.
 
I'm spending way too much brain power trying to figure out how to solve the visual delineation issue with the controls in the EQ section...

The problem is if I stuck with the same convention I've used with the rest of the buttons and knobs, then the gain controls for each band, 4 in all, would be orange. That what I've used for level controls in other sections of the module. Making every other EQ section control orange makes for a lot of orange on the control surface. I don't want to go from a sea of putty color to a sea of orange color. And even with every other one orange I'm not sure that solves the issue of trying to make it easier to see and grab the control that's needed in the moment. I'm overthinking it, yes. I know. The other problem with going with orange is that means I need a total of 48 of the larger orange color caps. I think I might have 12. That leaves a lot to get, and the only way to really get them is by purchasing complete units...other mixers.

Here is what a mock-up with the orange looks like...the module to the far right has the 4 orange controls in the EQ section:

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If I strayed from my logic of using orange for level controls and changed the mic and line trim knobs to red, like on most Teac/Tascam mixers, that might help it not be SO orange overall, and also free up 12 more of the larger orange color caps. But that makes for a bunch of red at the top of the module...and I was using orange for trims/levels. Another thought is to use green for AUX controls like most Teac Tascam mixers, but I was using green for the monitor buss. Arg...
 
I dunno. Get it working first and then worry about color coding?

:D
But at the same time I understand. I have 4 vintage turntables I'm working on, and while I'm waiting on parts, my head's all wrapped up in the cosmetics.

I 'was' all picky about the knob colors on my console while I was working on it. But now that I'm using it daily, I could care less. :)
 
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