Tascam BR-20T Story...

I've been doing some more real-world messing around with the BR-20T and in that process it has just performed flawlessly. It is just a solid performer. I have noticed that the tension rollers have too much play along their axis (up and down) and it turns out that one is missing a shim washer and the other has the wrong one. This could effect reliable tracking of the tape entering and leaving the guides in the block and might explain some of the wear issues I've seen in the guides. I'm going to check and see if Tascam has them. If not I have the dims in the manual.
 
this may put the nail in the coffin as far as buying new heads...

I had gotten a price quote from Tascam of about $160 for a sync head, and about $85 for the repro head for my BR-20T. Not bad...BUT, I had the part numbers wrong. The sync head on the BR-20T is the three track head okay? Two NAB audio heads and a narrow center track for timecode record and reproduce. I had assumed that the repro head was the same as the standard NAB two-track BR-20. Its not, and my eyes were looking at the wrong part numbers in the manual. $160 is for the BR-20T 2-track REPRO head...$85 is for the standard BR-20 NAB sync and/or repro head. I am waiting for the price/availability of the 20T 3-track sync head.

What's different about the repro head on the 20T vs. the standard BR-20? I betcha there is special guard banding treatment to shield the audio tracks from the sync track even though the repro head does not record or reproduce the sync track...
 
Got the new lifters as well as the tension arm roller shim washers.

Holding off on doing anything about new heads. Just don't know and its a lot of money.

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BR-20T club ;)

Heya Sweetbeats!

I stumbled on this thread while looking about for BR-20T info, and was very pleased to find a dedicated user! I also have the very same deck and have enjoyed using it for many years now. I have used it for 2ch mastering, but I'm pushing more into the realm of using it to bounce groups of sound (like drums) out then in to the multi-track DAW. I've learned a lot about decks, tape and calibration along the way.

Anyway, I'm not sure if it has been brought up already, but I can explain the worn grooves on your heads and roller poles. It comes from using Ampex 456 Grandmaster tape, which with second hand decks like ours would have seen some action with that type of tape. Once your heads have 456 grooves cut into them (from using that tape) you can't use any other tape without ugly shredding. I saw your deck had a LOT of shredding on it, so this is why. My deck's grooves aren't as deep as yours, but they are still there. So I'm stuck using the 456 on my deck until I replace the heads.

So if anyone out there is using 456 you can do something about its own shredding and leaving gunk on the heads: Put the reel into the oven and BAKE it at 50C for at least 12 hours! I'm dead serious. It works. It somehow seals the coating. I usually bake the tape once a year to keep it up to best condition.

However, it has been inspiring to read this thread and find that Tascam are indeed providing parts support! Looking forward to contacting them to find out if they can help me with a bias trimmer capacitor C101 that has died on me. While I'm at it I might see if I can get a new head set. It would be great to get some brand new tape, particularly the new ATR tape.

I really recommend that you open up the bottom of the deck and perform a solid calibration on both channels. When adjusting the pots go very gentle and use a wooden tool if you can, or a watch screw driver w/ flat head otherwise. The manual is great for walking you through the calibration steps. I use mda TestTone, and Voxengo SPAN to test and monitor the output, all within Reaper which is a DAW like Cubase (possibly better than Cubase). The most important checks are getting the input level correct; getting the Repro REC level right; getting the EQ on high correct; and most importantly the bias correct for your tape. If you nail the bias correctly then you really get the high frequencies coming through like magic, even on the classically murky 456 tape.

Oh two other things: Clean only with Isoproplylene - you can get Iso Pro from electronics stores easily. Clean with cotton tips, and clean every 6 hours of playback, at least. Also get a head demagnetizer. Plug it in away from the unit, move it in very slowly and smoothly toward the left head, then move across the heads as evenly and smoothly as possible, and then pull away in the same fashion on the right side. Reverse the whole process. Do this regularly to keep the region demagnetized. Do the rollers in the same fashion if you like.

Anyway, that's enough for now. Let me know if you have any questions. It's great to see another working BR-20T out there! :D Cheers.
 
Hey thanks for the tips and welcome!

So if anyone out there is using 456 you can do something about its own shredding and leaving gunk on the heads: Put the reel into the oven and BAKE it at 50C for at least 12 hours! I'm dead serious. It works. It somehow seals the coating. I usually bake the tape once a year to keep it up to best condition.

Right...no question about where the grooves come from or why it is a problem...there exist slight variances in slitting between manufacturers of tape over the years and even within a specific manufacturer. The Ampex/Quantegy slitting is slightly more narrow than the AGFA/BASF/EMTEC/RMGI family (for instance 1/2" tape of the former is spec'ed at 12.5mm while the latter specs out at 12.7mm...that's enough to cause trouble if a wear path has set in). The tape baking is detailed in links in the Sticky Shed thread at the top of the forum. A food dehydrator is best (better temp regulation) and don't use a gas oven. The baking drives moisture (temporarily) from the binder which in tapes made during certain years absorbs moisture from the environment causing a (messy) delamination. :mad:

However, it has been inspiring to read this thread and find that Tascam are indeed providing parts support! Looking forward to contacting them to find out if they can help me with a bias trimmer capacitor C101 that has died on me. While I'm at it I might see if I can get a new head set.

Yes...Tascam has competitors beat as far as parts support goes IMHO. Doubtful that they will have specific components like C101 though...or even PCB assemblies though it is always worth a shot!. Check places like Mouser Electronics for that variable cap. Tascam does have new heads in stock for the BR-20 and 20T. I think it is about $460 for the three heads.

Also, you can recondition your existing heads. Its called "relapping". There are several vendors that can do the lapping and setup the headblock for less than new heads. JRF Magnetics is one. Or you can do it yourself!
 
Heads relapped...

I recently enlisted help from evm1024 to relap the sync and reproduce heads. He did a fantastic job. Hopefully we're both happy with the transaction but I can't help feeling like I came out with the better end of the deal considering I now have a beautiful looking block for my BR-20T.

Ethan left the erase head alone as the heads themselves are ferrite which, as I now know, is brittle and can micro fracture during the lapping and leave behind a surface that can damage the tape. Not a concern to leave it alone on this erase head as it shows very little wear...Its a nice glass and ferrite headstack...the ferrite head surfaces are great. Erase heads typically have a much larger bearing surface and therefore aren't as great a concern when it comes to wear.

The reason I really needed to get these heads relapped is that, as I have mentioned in the past, the wear groove was (I believe) from Ampex/Quantegy tape which was slit slightly more narrow than the tape I'm using which is RMGI SM900. This is an awkward non-issue now sincxe I recently came into a sickeningly good price on two cases of NOS Quantegy GP9 2500' pancakes, but oh well. :rolleyes: Anways, because the groove was more narrow than the SM900 I was getting edge shed pretty badly. That should be gone now that I have the proper shim washers for the tension arm rollers, The guides have been rotated, the heads lapped and I have the new lifters going in.

Ethan took careful consideration of the fact that the BR-20T sync and reproduce heads are rare (only the sync head is three tracks, but the reproduce head is unique to the 'T' model as well with some special guard banding). He took them down just as far as they needed to go but no further. I can't believe how these look after spending some time eyeing them from different angles, using a good flashlight and a magnifying glass...they look just fantastic and line up superbly.

Anyway, big disclaimer here, Ethan is not in the business of relapping heads. If he decides otherwise at some point I'm sure he'll let us know. This was a private transaction between two enthusiasts located in close geographic proximity. Ethan's hope is that these case studies will encourage others to give it a try. Please refer to his thread on relapping heads...remember he dove in using the Nortronics guide linked in that thread and gave it a try and put the thread up as a resource for others to try. I know I'm definitely going to be giving it a shot at some point, I'm just in a position that I wanted expediency on these heads and I want to experiment on some throw away heads first and I haven't the time resource at the moment...its a priority to have the these heads done, but it can't be a priority for me to learn at the moment. So, thank you Ethan for being willing to engage in the transaction, and even moreso for being willing to dive into this area of DIY and encourage others.

My assessment is that if you have a keen eye, and a relatively steady hand and you enjoy patient crafting then you have the aptitude to do this yourself. The whole crown-jewel of DIY is having the power to take care of your own needs as they arise...having control of the quality and the cost. Relapping is arguably a pinnacle of analog tape recorder maintenance and repair, but you can do it. It isn't magic. Yes, the well-known firms that do this work professionally have expertise in this field that I certainly can't match...its called time and experience...yes they have tools and facilities to ensure repeatable quality control and to backup their gaurantee. Nobody is trying to say they aren't worth the expense or that there isn't a good reason they charge what they charge...you bet there is, and not everybody is going to be willing to rub their precious tape heads on sandpaper! But for some it will be worth spending $20 on a half-dozen old tape scanner heads on eBay or something for practice, and maybe $20 in supplies and maybe another $20 in some basic tools to be able to learn and have the gear to relap a bunch of heads.

SO...look up in post #134 for "before" pictures...here are some AFTER pictures:

Overall...

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Sync head...

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Reproduce head...

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Seriously...look at post #134.

Looking forward to getting the BR back together and finally getting it calibrated...don't know when I will do this exactly but there is nothing physical with the deck to get in the way of that now. SWEET!
 
Got the new lifters and relapped heads installed as well as new tension arm roller thrust washers (reminder...one was tweaked and the other missing). Polished up the dress panel.

Time to crack open the manual again and refresh myself on the setup and calibration procedures...
 
Got the new lifters and relapped heads installed as well as new tension arm roller thrust washers (reminder...one was tweaked and the other missing). Polished up the dress panel.

Time to crack open the manual again and refresh myself on the setup and calibration procedures...

Cory,

Ya gotta get busy :laughings: and get this calibrated. I want to hear how the heads work out. And you have to do it now because I'm heading to Ukraine for 3 weeks starting Friday. Whoo Hoo good vodka!

--Ethan
 
Heheh... :D

Sorry, Ethan...not gonna be before you go I'm thinking. I've got more demolition to do and back-filling foundation excavation as well as moving a bunch more stuff out of harms way in the next week (like the MM-1000...hmmmm where to tuck THAT???)...

Get over there, have some of that good vodka and you'll forget alllll about the heads.

I'm anxious to find out too. They look absolutely fabulous...the fresh heads with the new lifters and the recently refurbished pinch roller...the capstan was always shiny-new lookin'...the headblock looks brand new.
 
Took 15 minutes tonight to decrease physical and mental clutter. I was looking for my custom bearing puller...needed to use it on my tractor...couldn't find the puller but I DID find the really nice metal hoods I got for the 37-pin dsub connectors that attach to the ACCESSORY1 port on the BR-20T. I've got two cables that use that port...one connector is on the RC-402 remote, and the other is on the sync cable to interface the BR-20T with the TimeLine Micro Lynx. The hoods I had originally purchased were too thick to fit in the svelte opening in the rear panel of the BR-20T...these metal hoods are awesome.

So anyway I happened upon those hoods and the cables were nearby so I mounted 'em up. Check that off the list.
 
Cory, I have your bearing puller. I don't need it any more, so I'll send it back to you either tomorrow or on Friday :)
 
The cable hoods...

Pics of the cable hoods I mention above installed on the RC-402 remote and the Micro Lynx sync cable:

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Yeah...and the BEST part is that I can actually plug them in now without having to remove the hoods. :D
 
Wow...been over a year since I updated this thread.

I'm finally going through the BR-20T and getting it setup properly.

As is usually the case with my prjects I've got unexpected wierdness to deal with.

First is the issue of poor tape packing which I've discussed in this thread. I think that issue is pretty much resolved or at least the cause is known.

In the process of going through the transport setup I noticed a familiar feeling...A *zing* on a finger as some hairs brushed over a bare metal spot on the chassis. Out comes the voltmeter and...yep...the chassis is hot. Anywhere from about 30VAC to 120VAC depending on where I reference ground, where I probe the chassis and whether or not the machine is actually switched on. I've been immune to the problem because the BR-20T is usually in a room with carpeted floor and its nice and dry. Well, I had it out in our family room to work on it which is still bare concrete floor and I was wearing thin socks that were damp from my feet being kind of sweaty...sorry if that's gross. Anyway, that made a connection to earth and *zing*. So I've got it all opened up now and I've traced the leakage current to the Noise Filter PCB, which is the first place the non-polarized two-prong power cord connects inside the machine. That PCB is strapped to the chassis. I'm still trying to figure out how it works. The ground strap is betwixt two ceramic caps which, I'm told, creates a capacitive voltage divider and that maybe those caps are bad. At any rate I can clip one probe to the ground tab on the PCB (with the PCB totally isolated from the rest of the machine and physically unmounted from the chassis) and the other to either the neutral or hot AC input pin where the power cord is connected to the PCB and get 120VAC. Everything looks okay but something smells cooked. So, working on that.

The next thing is that the VU meter lamps are out again. They were bad when I first got the machine. The lamps are in series and one was burnt out and I only replaced that one so I'm guessing the other original lamp is burnt out now. No big deal but something that needs fixed.

At any rate, outside of those things I got the brakes setup, the pinch roller pressure setup, I'm really confident that all the tensions are really nice, and I adjusted the tension roller heights to get the tape traveling really nice in the tape path...teh machine handles tape even more smoothly and gently than before. Its really nice.

Once I figure out the issue with the chassis being hot then I'll set the azimuth on the freshly relapped heads and then get into the electronics.
 
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