tascam 32 - again.

  • Thread starter Thread starter FALKEN
  • Start date Start date
everyone, get out a pen, and write down the date and time. :eek: ;)


seriously though,

I was just testing the fuses again with the multimeter. only I did a small experiment. it seems that if you touch any + to another fuses -, sometimes there is a connection. this shoudln't be, should it? I still don't think its the fuses though; unless there is a specific fuse for play but not the motor or any of the other transport functions.
 
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Yes the small board with the two screws that is connected to the motor.
I have done it a couple of times and it no big deal. If you are going to change the motor then that small board with the two screws would have to come out anyway. So if you are going to rob one motor for the other you might as well change both instead of cutting and soldering those wires.
Besides it will look better inside the machine.
I hope this works for you gets you going.

Good luck
 
yea dude.

at least I have a plan of action.

before I go that route though,

If I were just going to grease up the motor...to see if that helps...

is WD40 OK or should I run out and get the 3 in 1 ?

you can tell there's a lot of shit I never learned growing up.
 
I dont remember for sure but I dont think there is a place to lube those motors. I think it is sealed.
 
!!!

You have to pop at least one end of the fuse out of the clip before testing, otherwise you could get tons of false readings from other cross-circuit interactions.:0

Pop the fuses out of the circuit, then retest.;)
 
ok; tried this...same thing. no problems. I assume if I am still getting cross-circuit interactions that it is because the fuse is working.

I pulled the motor out. I don't really see where Herm was talking about to put the oil...should I take apart the motor?

I did the reel table adjustment on the ebay machine. It does play back now. I didn't test record functionality, though. The left tension arm is missing one of the springs to pop it back down. it takes a huge skip when I hit play, and during playback there is some flutter....

I'd like to avoid actually swapping the motors because this ebay machine sort of sucks. The motor and a lot of other parts are corroded. it looks like somebody used the crap out of it in a full blown studio, then put it in a garage for 15 years. Its like the worst case scenario...but it does play.

If worse comes to worse I'll swap them. The only two other Ideas I have are to try to put some oil on the first motor, and to spray de-oxit on everything.

any thoughts??? I am still pretty new at this stuff. :o :o

but if I can get through this...I'd feel like....semi-knowledgeable.
 
ok;

the motor is not going to be coming open today. for my life, I can't get it. should I just put some oil right down the shaft-hole?
 
I just finished the motor transplant, and it looks like we are back in business. I just have to put the face back on...which should only take 5 minutes from now on...

I just don't know how long this motor is going to last. Its all corroded and it looks like crap... I couldn't imagine that it could last longer than the last one. but I think its actually the card that is bunk not the motor. Maybe I can do something there....

or it still might just need some oil.




does anybody know anything about oiling the motor?
 
just in case anyone cares...

I got the whole project mixed down today. fantastic.

I tried rebuilding the crap machine. I tried deoxit on the whole motor pcb and it did nothing. I tried 3-in-1 motor oil down the shaft and it did nothing.

The thing is that the motor does turn if you push it a bit....then it just goes and goes..so I know its not dead. it must be the pcb board.

when I played back the tape I was making when the motor died, it played back fast. meaning that the motor was slow before it died.

i don't know enuff to understand any of this.

but the transplant worked. thanks, herm and dave and jpmorris.
 
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FALKEN said:
I got the whole project mixed down today. fantastic.
The thing is that the motor does turn if you push it a bit....then it just goes and goes..so I know its not dead. it must be the pcb board.

when I played back the tape I was making when the motor died, it played back fast. meaning that the motor was slow before it died.

herm and dave and jpmorris.
Click to expand...

That pretty much confirms that the control board has gone wrong. Of course now that you have two, you might be able to get some local electronics guru to fix the duff one, by comparing the two at component level. It's probably a transistor or maybe one of the capacitors.

I've not seen the '32 capstan motor, as I've never had reason to explore that part of the machine (although I did once remove the A8 capstan motor)

Good that you've got one machine running, though.

(Someday I must try and figure out why mine will only start reliably in Small reel mode, or from a cold start. If it's been left on too long, it won't run in large mode, but once started in Small, you can set it back to Large and it will keep running happily)
 
jpmorris said:
(Someday I must try and figure out why mine will only start reliably in Small reel mode, or from a cold start. If it's been left on too long, it won't run in large mode, but once started in Small, you can set it back to Large and it will keep running happily)
Click to expand...
Try replacing R698 and R680 - the reel size switch S611 just bypasses these two resistors.
 
arjoll said:
Try replacing R698 and R680 - the reel size switch S611 just bypasses these two resistors.
Click to expand...

That was my guess from the schematics, although I'm not wholly clear on their physical location within the machine. I may look into it this weekend (I'm not using that machine regularly anymore).
 
falken, i know nothing about analog recording or tape machines but i do know that a dying motor can be coaxed to work with a little push of the hand. i'd figure out a way to test the motor.
 
thanks for all of the suggestions. I am nearly at the end of my project...just redoing some songs that were so-so balance-wise.. I might attempt to do some splicing for the first time....

As I was re-doing some of the tracks the brakes died again...

so I opened it up again and took a look at things and decided to tighten the brakes. seems to have done the trick. Althought they might be a bit too tight now...not really sure how to tell.
 
damn this machine to hell

my brakes are fine....

but my brake solenoid is completely intermittent.

any thoughts????
 
pull the solenoid to bits and give it a good clean. Tascam/teac stuff is well known for the solenoids to clog
 
yes I have done this - they are clean enough to eat off of and they are still intermittent.
 
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