Stupid Studio Construction Question #4 - Door and Window Trim

[ob]

I am in the process of coverting a garage apartment into a studio. I have made several posts (last post was on ceiling joists, which I have not fixed yet, because I'm still trying to wrestle the bathtub out of the bathroom/soon-to-be-isolation room), but every step brings more questions.

Here's this week's installment: The walls were covered with "beaver board", an oldtime paper/fiber mess that comes out in small chunks. I have removed most of this, but have determined that it was run under/behind the door and window trim and base boards. Therefore, I am going to pry the trim loose and remove this.

When I put in my sheetrock (2 layers on resilient channel), should I run the sheetrock to the floor and attach the trim to the sheetrock or studs, or butt the sheetrock up against the trim, so that the trim is is attached directly to the studs, with insulation behind it?

To the extent that it matters, the trim is wood (appears to be fir, by look and smell). Any advice is appreciated.

 

[Alex W]

Attach your trim to the sheetrock with finishing nails. Don't nail it all the way through to the studs (though I doubt you could if you tried ).

Alex

 

[sheppard]

if the tub gives you ahard time coming out:go to yer nearest rental place and rent a chop saw.cut the tub in half and it wil come outta there with ease.

 

[RICK FITZPATRICK]

Whoa! I've never seen a chop saw with a blade that big And the ability to cut cast iron? Geeeeeeezzzze, what will they think of next?
Leaving that alone, Alex, do you caulk at the trim/floor connection? And would construction adhesive for the trim work?
How about this. At the vertical door/window jamb framing, the RC is dieing into the actual jamb. Since the RC is horizontal, what do you fasten the sheet rock to, at the vertical studs adjacent to the jambs? There would be a gap, the thickness of the RC. correct? Also the trim on the jamb needs something behind the sheetrock to nail to also? This detail has never been discussed here and I'm curious One other consideration, once the RC is added, plus any extra layers of rock, the depth of the jambs must be increased also. Ob, are you having custom jambs machined? And if so, are they utilizing any special geometry for the jamb/door connections for soundproofing? I would be interested in seeing what your planning on in this regard.
fitz

 

[John Sayers]

don't run the sheetrock to the floor - leave a 1/4" gap between the sheet and the floor. Then seal the gap with a flexible sealant - then trim as alex suggested.

cheers
John

 

[ob]

Frankly, I am stumbling my way through this project, and hadn't really thought about how I can compensate for the extra thickness created by the RC and sheetrock and the gap it will leave with the jams. When I used to do house renovations (laborer only, no skills acquired), when faced with a dilemna like this, someone would say "That's why God made caulk". But I don't think I can fill an inch and a half (or more) gap with caulk. Hmmm, this will require more thought.

As for removing the tub, one of the things I did get proficient in while working as a laborer was removing old bathtubs. Tools required: Dust Mask, Eye Protection, Very Good Hearing Protection (like the people on the runway at the airport) and a sledge hammer. It sounds like you are playing the bells of Notre Dame, at least until the tub cracks. And the cast iron shards are sharp enough to cut you in two. But it works in getting the tub out.

I may still try to get it out in one piece.

 

[Alex W]

For caulking large gaps, you can get something called "backer rod", "caulk saver" or similar description--it's basically a foam rubber cabel, 3/8-in or 1/2-in diameter that you can shove in the gap and then caulk over.

I'm faced with the jamb dillemna as well--my solution will be to glue or tack additional strips of trim material the same thickness as the jams to cover the gap. You definitely want to caulk the gaps beneath the trim though.

Not sure what your concern is regarding the RC channel around the penetrations Fitz . I'm not all that construction savvy so I may just be having a problem interpetting your question. I ran the channels right up to the vertical studs around penetrations, then just held back fasteners from these studs just like any others when screwing the steet rock to the channel flanges.

I one instance I had solid timber running the length over a window header. In this case I used adhesive to gule the drywall to the channel, holding it in place with temporary screws that I removed once the glue had set.

Gluing the trim is probably a good idea, but might be kind of messy.

Alex

 

[RICK FITZPATRICK]

Hi Alex, no concern, just curious. I've never had the opportunity to do this yet. Just scratching off questions on the "list" so to speak. Learning. I thought you would run a vertical piece of rc along the vertical jambs. What do you do with the jamb trim, just nail it to the jamb, and not to the wall? I am really trying to gather up all the little details as to the norm of this type of construction. However, a lot of my design work for my "future" studio, will have things not normally associated with studios. Thats because I work for a large store fixture/architectural millwork facility and have access to materials and products that no one here has ever seen. At least the way I use them. You CAN see them in Macys Thats where most of them are used. And I've worked on on a lot of them. And besides, I like things out of the ordinary. Like aluminum extrusions. I use special ones for all different kinds of things I am designing presently. Even jamb trim. Ha! And diffusers. Slats for slat resonators. Holdown frames for fabric covered absorbers. And many other design details, materials and hardware. Gotta please myself sometimes. Thats why I asked. Thanks
fitz