Studio/control room window?

[MartyMcFly]

I am making my own control room window from scratch. I have it all framed out and ready to go. I decided to use 1x6 pine and trim around the outside like a regular window. Since my windows will be custom sized I will be putting the glass in my self. I figured that I would put some quarter round in the window to hold my glass in place...
My question is...should I use silicone caulk to seal the glass?
Do I want the glass tight to the frame or should I leave it float? Whats the best in terms of vibration?
Thanks

 

[MartyMcFly]

Seriously...anyone got me covered on this one??? No??? O.k then...

 

[DigitalDon]

I remember seeing somewhere in John Sayers manual a detailed drawing of the control room window. Go to his site and download the manual if you haven't already. I think it's in there somewhere and I think there's a description of how to do it.

DD

 

[gatorhaus]

Marty,

This is exactly how I am doing mine, I did however rest the glass on a piece of rubber material so it would not touch the frame.

I nailed in one side of the quarter-round, and then set the glass in place on top of the rubber strip. Nailed a block to hold the top in place and then caulked around the entire piece of glass.

Let dry overnight, cause the caulk will shrink, and caulked again. Then put my other side of 1/4 round in.

hope this helps, I'll try to put some pics up this weekend. I'll be finishing my windows then.

larry

 

[ausrock]

Marty,

There are a couple of options.............

1; On the "fixed" timber beading/rebate (that you push the glass against), you can run a bead of silicone, making sure it is of consistent thickness and let it fully cure, then put your glass in, run some silicone into the gap around the edge of the glass and then fit the quad (quarter round). Just make sure that the first lot of silicone is cured so as not to stick to the glass.

2' As above, but instead of using a cured silicone bead to set the glass against, get some adhesive backed rubber strip and fit that in first, then fit the glass, silicone around the edges, etc., etc.

The main thing is to have to glass totally sealed/airtight, hence using silicone around the edge, but it is important when fitting glass, to make sure that there is nothing putting pressure on any specific point, as this kind of "point load pressure" will create stress which ultimately becomes a crack. Using silicone or a rubber strip for the glass to bed against minimises the chance of cracks developing over time. DO NOT use uncured silicone on either front or back surfaces of the glass.

Ideally use the adhesive rubber method on both sides of the glass with silicone around the edges.............the advantages here are that if it is ever necessary to remove the glass, it is just a matter of take the quad off on one side, then running a sharp blade through the sealing silicone around the edges and the glass can be removed.

 

[RICK FITZPATRICK]

Hi Ausrock, say, I have a GIANT glass supply source book, called CRL. They literally have 100's of rubber gasketing seals for bedding and sealing glass. Have you ever heard of a gasket for studio windows? I'm planning mine , with the finish framing/trim fabricated out of special heavy duty storefront aluminum extrusions, which actually come with a seal. Ever seen a studio use this type of affair? Just curious. Same with the doors. Maybe. I have a couple of Aluminum and glass storefront doorsl, but I don't know how they will work yet. Maybe they won't We'll see.
fitz

 

[Michael Jones]

What's wrong with doing it like this:

 

[RICK FITZPATRICK]

Now there we go again Hello Michael, that section is confusing to me. I guess someone should explain, like ausrock did for me, that there is no interior sheetrock shown, is that correct? This is a reversed sheetrock face, with the open side for absorbers facing into the room? I pondered over that one for a while. It would seem that you only have the two layers of sheetrock to block sound. with an airgap between. Is that correct also? Seems like that would not be a very effecient STC wall. But who am I? Care to elaborate John? Maybe I'm missing something? Every thing I've read indicates that the STC of the wall, is what your trying to acheive with the glass also. Wouldn't there be a need for a more robust STC solution on this wall especially? I think this one was discussed on DD's project. Only he had a staggered stud, that this didn't work for. I still don't understand how he solved that one.
fitz

 

[John Sayers]

fitz - that's a standard window mounting system and yes, you are correct the drywall is reversed. You're also correct in that it does allow for acoustic treatment on the wall without having to add another internal layer, thus in a garage studio design from where the drawing came, where space is at a minimum, it is appropriate. It's also a lot cheaper.

Left Bank was built entirely using this technique and believe me it works and the STC - room to room is acceptable to all........before you ask, I'm sorry, I haven't measured it.

cheers
john

 

[ausrock]

Rick,

I haven't seen either an aluminium section or gasket strip specifically designed for studios..........although that's not to say someone, somewhere, hasn't made one. It is more likely that they have been designed and manufactured for use in commercial buildings where everyday acoustic insulation is reguired either using a single sheet of glass or multiple sheets, i.e; in office buildings where it is necessary to keep traffic noise to a minimum.

I have used a commercial grade, aluminium hinged door with 5mm (I think) glass to create an air-lock, the rest of the wall it is in has two 10mm laminated glass panels the size of a door.........these are fitted as per my suggestions above. The door seals against a rubber bead and is totally air tight. The reason I built it with so much glass is because the other side (approx 18" to 30" away) of the airlock is a 7'x7' aluminium and glass slider assy., so while I have minimised sound coming in or going out, I still have my view to the trees and parrots outside.

I have also seen aluminium sliders used to great effect in a studio..............as per John's designs, ( John, I'm refering specifically to Cloud Studios), however I think they may have been made to order for that application rather than "off the shelf" door assemblies.

 

[MartyMcFly]

Thanks guys for all of the responses...Im gonna give it a go today... Ill let you know how it goes

 

[DigitalDon]

Hey Rick,
My studio is progressing at a snails pace right now so I still haven't solved that problem with my staggered stud wall. I'm no where near mounting glass just yet.

While I'm on the subject of slow progress - Has anyone noticed that everyone (at least the ones I've dealt with) in the construction field operates on a totally different clock and even calender? "I'll be out Wednesday, Thursday at the latest to finish the mudding and sanding." I had planned on priming the walls for paint tomorrow but the asshole didn't show to finish his work. I called the guy he worked with (who recommended him because he himself was tied up) tonight and jumped his ass. He gave the "man I can't believe that" routine and "promised" he would be out Saturday afternoon to finish it himself. I guess I should have asked him what Saturday he would be out I've gone about 4 months now without recording and it's driving me F@@@'g crazy.

Sorry to hijack this thread. I feel a little better now.

DD

 

[RICK FITZPATRICK]

Hey DD, I solved the staggered stud window frame. I'll post it as soon as I can. It isolates one frame from the other. kind of odd, but it works. I know you probably have solved it your way. But for anyone else. I have never heard of using a staggered stud wall as the iso wall between control room and studio. Of course, I've never rode a camel either. Let alone see a lot of studio construction. Anyway, I'll PM it to ya soon.
fitz

 

[Michael Jones]

Hmm, well, I'm doing staggered studs on the exterior walls, and double walls for ISO room to room. I plan on using John's detail above to mount the glass in my studio - when the time comes.

The double walls, with dry wall and acoustic layering on the outside only, and insulation between gives an STC somewhere in the low 60's.

 

[DigitalDon]

Thanks Rick. I'll be watching for it.

 

[chippyd]

The double walls, with dry wall and acoustic layering on the outside only, and insulation between gives an STC somewhere in the low 60's.

Hi
I will be doing a double wall also and would like to know more info about using dry walls with acoustic layering on the outside only, dose this really work and how dose it compare to the normal way with plaster board on the outside instead?

I was looking at this before.....
http://www.saecollege.de/reference_material/images/Walls 2..gif



thanks
Daz

 

[Michael Jones]

This is what I was thinking of when I mentioned double walls.
Note the section on the far right.

 

[chippyd]

inside and outside

yes I understand that now

thanks