Small Room Acoustics

It corrects specific frequencies. Or course, by your chart, it wouldn't do you a whole lot of good as they nominally only work from 1500Hz up. You look pretty flat there...sorry, wrong direction.
 
rt60 r next.jpg

Changed a couple things, and now this. Hmmm. Not sure I trust these measurements. In any case, better looking graph :guitar:

mdat: http://www.gearslutz.com/board/10285285-post388.html
 
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BroKen_H said:
IDK, if I can get my room to look that flat from 50-12k, I'll be very happy.
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So I know what page your on, what data are you looking at in your comment?

For whats its worth, any room decent size room with decent dimension ratios can get this flat. Just a matter of treatment. If you were to post your data, and your room specs, bet it can be improved.
 
Just starting. Haven't even hung the 703 yet (well, got a cloud on the ceiling 2x4x2" and a pair of 4" thick super chunk over the doors in the corners on the back wall. Got to get an SPL meter to even get started. Hook up the mike and the SPL meter and get going. (My only SPL meter is on my tablet. Not going to be sufficient.
Plan is for one more cloud, floor to ceiling corner bass traps on the facing wall, 8 2x2x2" traps on each of the side walls. 8 to fill the back wall, and then find the trouble frequencies and use the calculator I mentioned above to get them in order with a diffuser across the top of the back wall. All said and done, it should get pretty flat in here (using M-Audio M3-8s. Earth shakingly loud if you let em).
 
Just a pointer, R19, when thick (12"-18") does WAY more absorption in the bass region than 703 can do at any thickness.
 
Okay, got most of my trapping up, and I've got a couple of frequencies I'd like to tame. I've got two nulls: 514Hz dip ~8dB, 950Hz dip of ~6dB, and a 5dB spike at 1613Hz @ 60dB Pink Noise. Any advice on the best way to render these flatter? My room is quiet and sounds very good. I measured at the sweet spot. Should I build a diffuser for the nulls on the back wall? Should I just use a parametric eq to deal with those three frequencies at output (like Equalizer APO)? Should I just get used to how it sounds and deal with it?

Thanks!
 
BroKen_H said:
Okay, got most of my trapping up, and I've got a couple of frequencies I'd like to tame. I've got two nulls: 514Hz dip ~8dB, 950Hz dip of ~6dB, and a 5dB spike at 1613Hz @ 60dB Pink Noise. Any advice on the best way to render these flatter? My room is quiet and sounds very good. I measured at the sweet spot. Should I build a diffuser for the nulls on the back wall? Should I just use a parametric eq to deal with those three frequencies at output (like Equalizer APO)? Should I just get used to how it sounds and deal with it?

Thanks!
Click to expand...

H,

Don't try to tame a 'couple of frequencies'.

Nulls and peaks in a treated room that are visible during the testing phase are almost ALWAYS caused by destructive, early reflections. You can find out where they are by looking at the Impulse response in REW and by moving the speaker or the mic position in subsequent tests.
Most often, these problems can be resolved by optimal placement of speakers or listening position... or BOTH.

Cheers,
John
 
Wow! Thanks, John. Was not looking forward to building 9 skyline traps for the back wall. Still wonder if it might be a good idea to build a few across the top (or maybe use some QRD). Small room acoustics have turned out to be much easier than I had first thought, but still a lot of work. It's taken 2 months to get the room set up, but it's dead quiet in there when it's quiet and I'm about to start redoing some of my vocals. We'll see.
BTW, spot on. Moved my desk back about 4" (really, only 4" makes a huge difference) and things got worse out of hand, so moved it 6" forward from there and SWEET! Sounds like a million bucks, I just needed to get 2" closer to the wall to bring those off frequencies into order? Same test, moved the frequencies up a bit, but much flatter on all three nodes. Can't get any closer to the wall, though. I bet a larger room doesn't have this kind of problems...
 
Sorry ... this might be a dumb question, but I can't seem to find the answer to it anywhere. When you say "move the speakers, test, move them again, and test again, etc.," exactly what kind of "test" are you talking about? I'm assuming it has to do with some kind of frequency response at the listening position, but I guessed I missed the boat where everyone was taught how to perform this ubiquitous test and the tools required!

Thanks!
 
working in a small bedroom studio here. would you agree that when recording a guitar amplifier (with a close mic and room mic) it is most important to have some sort of treatment on the wall directly behind the amplifier? any recommendations on where to place the amp within the room assuming the room is a square ? (IE, middle of room, backed up to a wall, backed up to a corner)
 
"There is no spoon"

Jay,

RECORDING Electric Guitar: Warning; the technique used is highly subjective.... In other words; it depends on the track, song, artist, etc.

As an artist, you should know what sound/tone you want. Amplifier position in the room, proximity to wall or corner, and microphone technique will modify the tone/harmonics picked up by the microphone. You should 'play' with the position until you find the 'right spot' for your individual sound.

THERE IS NO 'PROPER' or 'BEST' WAY TO DO THIS. If the sound you are getting is what you want, nothing could be better. :D

That, coupled with your individual playing style, will make your 'sound' stand out. You hear the difference in the character of Stevie Ray Vaughan's guitar, Brian May, Keith Richards, Eddie Van Halen, and Steve Vai... it's a combo of everything, like I keep saying about room acoustics. Everything is connected, even proximity of the guitar to the amp. It sounds far different when the amp is in an amp closet vs standing right next to the Marshall cab with the level on 11. It can also be psycho-acoustic when the player really 'feels' it and flows with the notes as they surround him.

So, don't necessarily follow the advice of someone telling of a 'better' way to do that because although it may be better for THEM, it might not work for YOU. Work at it and find that sweet spot. ;)

Cheers,
John
 
Ok. I am currently restricted to a very small rental house. the only room for my computer has a Large window on one side and a Large glass sliding door on the other side and a french door. bad. i know. but this is what i HAVE. Are there any suggestions to making this a decent temporary recording studio? 20141002_102006.jpg
 
Thanks alot for the gobos idea. that may be what I'm going to do!!! the clutter is not staying there. I just moved in! stuff like Owens Corning 703 insulation work well enough or is it worth it to invest in acoustic foam?
 
Gabriel Acevedo said:
stuff like Owens Corning 703 insulation work well enough or is it worth it to invest in acoustic foam?
Click to expand...

You should reverse the products in this question. The funny thing is that acoustic foam (Auralex) is much more expensive to achieve decent results than OC703 panels of the same cost. In fact most of their products will not do much if any good in such a small space. You have much bigger issues than just high end reflections in your space.
 
Gabriel Acevedo,

I agree with the above posts. Go to my publications page and download the ReflectionsBoundariesMass spreadsheet. On the first tab, you'll see a room layout and panel positions. enter your dimensions to determine the best placement for reflection point panels. - Don't forget the ceiling. The back wall will be the most important wall to really trap as deeply as possible, however, you may fair better with a good set of headphones to check your mixes. - Any port in a storm. ;)
Cheers,
John
 
+1000^^^ to everything said above.
Very narrow room, so to use monitors effectively you're going to need a ton of trapping - basically the whole front wall/corners and the back wall, plus cloud plus first reflection points on sides.
Forget foam. make rockwool bass traps.
 
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