...Correct me if I am wrong, but as little as 1 foot of length or width of a room can make a drastic change in the modes that cause issues right?
I've read over and over that thing about how the listening position should be at 38% (or whatever) the length of the room. Can you comment at all on that, and specifically how it relates to your points about the distance from monitors to front wall?
...John, I understand what you say about the direction the mic is facing. How would view using a SR Filter, to cover the rear and side of a mic, with blankets put up as a wall behind the singer, in the direction that the mic faces?
+1.... you gotta deal with what you resources you have. Some get away with hanging blankets over boom stands or pvc pipe frames around singer and get decent results. The basic idea is to hinder the reflections of the room. You will still have low end issues because the blankets will not absorb them, but your sound will be a bit more focused.
NO PROBLEMO. I post here to help people.. and if it goes viral... that's fine with me. I know it's probably a drop in the bucket compared to exponential propagation of the myths that continue to run.. - And thanks for linking it to my site. I'm just trying to shine a light... The batteries in this old flashlight... I hope they hold..I posted a portion (the speaker placement portion) on another site. JH I can send you a link if you would like (I attributed the quote to you and linked to your website) and I can remove it if you would like. I think it's great information and it fit perfectly with a topic that had come up on another site. Just let me know if you would like me to take it down and send you a link.
That's what I've always heard. Doesn't ask the question I asked though..375 times the distance from front to back IS a preferred mixing position. This is due to the fact that, if sitting @ 3/8 of the length of the room, you will not be sitting in a dip or peak of the length axial mode or it's harmonics... it is an odd multiple of the room length that will work like this. Similarly 3/7 of the room also works to some degree, but the 'sweet spot' will be smaller as this one puts the mixer/listener closer to the center of the room, which will ALWAYS be a bad spot for LF accuracy. - Another reason why we don't usually face the long wall.
I've got my listening position right around there, but that puts my speakers about three feet from the front wall. They make a triangle with my head about 4 feet on a side. Would I be better off moving my speakers all the way back to the wall even if that puts them like 8 feet apart?
NO PROBLEMO. I post here to help people.. and if it goes viral... that's fine with me. I know it's probably a drop in the bucket compared to exponential propagation of the myths that continue to run.. - And thanks for linking it to my site. I'm just trying to shine a light... The batteries in this old flashlight... I hope they hold..
negative, that is merely a common misconception in acoustics that denser is better for LF absorption. for sufficiently designed LF porous-only absorbers, loosely filled pink fluffy attic insulation (~5000rayls/m flow-resistivity) will perform best. you want a material with low flow-resistivity to limit reflection from the absorber (as any impedance change will result in a reflection).
the air impedance is real, but a porous absorber is complex acoustical impedance (real+imaginary); you cannot look solely at the real (resistive) component.
sources: Features - AFMG SoundFlow
Porous Absorber Calculator V1.59
That is correct (although Rockwool per se is not ruled out since there are different types of Rockwool, and some works very well depending on depth). It is a stubborn misconception that very dense wool is best suited for thick velocity based absorbers. The figure of interest for wool used as velocity based absorbers; is the “Gas Flow Resistivity”, and not primarily the density. Although there are loose relations between density and GFR, it is not uncommon for two different types of wool featuring the same density, to have very different GFR values. And yes; for thicker panels, you want to use a lower GFR: Multi-layer Absorber Calculator
That doesn't answer my question either. Thanks though.
That doesn't answer my question either. Thanks though.
Edit - Let me restate, though I feel like I was pretty clear earlier. I'm sitting at 38% right now, with might speakers at nearfield distances from my head. If I move them to the front wall as suggested above, I end up at more like midfield distance and the speakers will be a lot closer to the side walls and there's a lot more of those side walls that will need treatment to create an RFZ. Will it actually be better if I do move the speakers to the front wall?
Not understanding that Calculator that Jens linked (got to be an Acoustic Engineer, I guess), would an 8" trap made with the standard pink loose fiberglass (same stuff you put as an attic blanket) be more or less absorbant than a 4" trap made with typical rockwool (OC 703, for example)?
This is a pretty common situation, and while I'm not an expert, I think I can offer a little advice that I've picked up around the net.An issue I have is if I set up facing the short wall, the wall behind me has a total of three doors. (I'll try to post pics later,) in one corner is isn't an issue because the door is three and a half feet from the corner. However, the other corner has a door leading to the hall, and a closet it door. One door is only three inches from the corner while the closet door is only seven inches from the corner. I don't see how I can place a base trap in this corner, and setting up facing this wall is not possible either. I do understand why it is best to set up facing the short wall. What are my options here in my room. 14'4" x 11' 6" x 8'. Countless primmer's I've read say if I set up facing the long wall, so I have corners that can be trapped, that I'll never tame the sound in here at all.