M
muttley
New member
CHECK OUT RECORDING MAGAZINES ( SEPT ) ARTICLE ON THIS MICS MODIFICATION UPGRADE !!
da MUTT
da MUTT
F
Flatpicker
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I'm in the process of modding mine now. Hopefully I'll find time to finish it up this week. I'm also doing some 'before' and 'after' acoustic guitar clips.
D
DJL
Self Banned
I like my matched pair of Oktava MC-012's from the Sound Room the way they are so I won't be doing any modification to them... but, I'm curious what the mod is and what it's suppose to do?muttley said:
bongolation
New member
I'm curious if there's anything there that Scott hasn't already explained two years ago on UseNet and elsewhere.
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hrn
New member
F
Flatpicker
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He covers that stuff and goes futher explaining the circuit function and problems with Oktava manufacturing. It's a very interesting read, if nothing else.bongolation said:
All my recent 012 needs is an upgraded FET, input cap, bias resistor and leak resistor.
F
Flatpicker
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Re: Re: Oktava MK,MC 012 Mods
In Scott's article, he says that (I hope it's ok to quote this
) "...weird substitutions will often be found in some of the Oktava mics that are not purchased through a dealer who specifically selects them." In light of this, I think it'd be interesting to see the insides of the Sound Room’s and compare them to the insides of Guitar Center's.
If you decide to do it, you'll need a jeweler's screwdriver close to the same width as the ones holding the casing in place. Obviously, you’ll first need to remove the capsule. Next, turn the screws clockwise just until they go past the casing. This won't be far as the casing is very thin. If you go too far, they'll fall out inside the mic, which isn't a big deal. You'll just have to be careful not to loose them before you thread them back in.
Once the screws are recessed enough, grasp the "connecter-end" and carefully, twist and pull the casing until it comes loose. It may help to take your thumb and push the “capsule-end” down into the casing while pulling on the other end. Mine was in there pretty tight.
Just remember when putting it back together, the “capsule-end” needs to be centered in the other end of the casing, before it’ll go back together completely. When together, line up the screw holes and back the screws out until they are fairly snug.
Hey, DJL, what would be REALLY cool is if you could pop the cover off one, shoot a pic or two and post it! If I could see the circuit board I could tell you whether or not it could be significantly upgraded.DJL said:
In Scott's article, he says that (I hope it's ok to quote this
) "...weird substitutions will often be found in some of the Oktava mics that are not purchased through a dealer who specifically selects them." In light of this, I think it'd be interesting to see the insides of the Sound Room’s and compare them to the insides of Guitar Center's.If you decide to do it, you'll need a jeweler's screwdriver close to the same width as the ones holding the casing in place. Obviously, you’ll first need to remove the capsule. Next, turn the screws clockwise just until they go past the casing. This won't be far as the casing is very thin. If you go too far, they'll fall out inside the mic, which isn't a big deal. You'll just have to be careful not to loose them before you thread them back in.
Once the screws are recessed enough, grasp the "connecter-end" and carefully, twist and pull the casing until it comes loose. It may help to take your thumb and push the “capsule-end” down into the casing while pulling on the other end. Mine was in there pretty tight.
Just remember when putting it back together, the “capsule-end” needs to be centered in the other end of the casing, before it’ll go back together completely. When together, line up the screw holes and back the screws out until they are fairly snug.
F
Flatpicker
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Nope. Only in the mag.hrn said:
H
hrn
New member
Any website to the mag?
F
Flatpicker
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http://www.recordingmag.com/hrn said:
H
hrn
New member
thanks!
Hans
Hans
bongolation
New member
Funny, I thought I remember him saying that the later FETs were OK. What does he say to replace them with? I'd like to see the article, though I don't know where I'd find it locally.Flatpicker said:
Did he say where to get those 1G-3G resistors?
I might bag some of these on Labor Day if GC has a killer deal on them, in which case I might do some mods. We'll see.
F
Flatpicker
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Digi-Key. I think they're actually in stock now, too.bongolation said:
D
DJL
Self Banned
Re: Re: Re: Oktava MK,MC 012 Mods
No thanks, I'd just screw it up... if I was ever to want to do the mod, I'd do it to one from GC.Flatpicker said:
F
Flatpicker
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Re: Re: Re: Re: Oktava MK,MC 012 Mods
I didn't mean do the mod. Just pop off the cover and take a pic.DJL said:
ausrock
Well-known member
FP,
Are those 012's still going at silly prices over your way?
There's some guy on Ebay Australia, selling two s/hand 012's with a start price of around $500Aust the pair......that's approx $300US.
New here, they have a list of over $700 each and the best price I have seen is $495, and that is for the single capsule and pad version.
Are those 012's still going at silly prices over your way?
There's some guy on Ebay Australia, selling two s/hand 012's with a start price of around $500Aust the pair......that's approx $300US.
New here, they have a list of over $700 each and the best price I have seen is $495, and that is for the single capsule and pad version.
F
Flatpicker
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Yup. $75 until Sept, 1 but then they're only $99.ausrock said:FP,
Are those 012's still going at silly prices over your way?
There's some guy on Ebay Australia, selling two s/hand 012's with a start price of around $500Aust the pair......that's approx $300US.
New here, they have a list of over $700 each and the best price I have seen is $495, and that is for the single capsule and pad version.
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