mk319 no brainer

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turing

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hi, new member here...........just got my hands on an oktava mk319 and i'm nerving myself to start pulling it apart.
been trawling through all the modification posts here, and i think i've got a reasonable idea of what's required.
but did that full article ever get posted up? the one from the magazine etc etc?
it would be reassuring to see some gut shots before i unleash the soldering iron.
thanks
 
I dont think any article from a magazine ever got posted. Try using the search facility.
Type in MK319. Plenty of info is available.
 
been there

yes i have been through all the previous posts, and as i say i've got a fairly decent grip on what needs to be done.
just hoping that a blow by blow account had been made available. just for added confidence as this is my first foray into mic mod-ing.
 
Recording mag did an article on modding the 219 and 319 with photos.
It was a year or so back.
 
Demto is being modest. He did a lot of work modifying his Oktava mic and describing results, so his posts are good source material.

re: A step-by-step Oktava 319 cookbook -

If you search hard enough you will find an unauthorized copy of the article that Scott Dorsey wrote several years ago for Recording Magazine. I say unauthorized because this was a work-for-hire article Scott wrote and for which he recieves a royalty on reprints. I have to say the DIY mic modding community has been pretty respectful of his intellectual property rights and has not made this article widely available on the 'Net.

As a side bar to this article, I'd like to add that, in my opinion, Scott recommend fairly easy to find parts that would work in a plug n' play fashion and give some degree of improvement for DIY'ers with entry-level skills. This article does not represent the results of an exhaustive, multi-year R&D effort to re-design and remanufacture these mics to the highest possible performance levels.

For example - Scott recommended the use of the Toshiba 2SK170 FET because it can be dropped into the circuit and does not have to be individually biased. This is a fine approach for a DIY'er who doesn't have the spectral analysis and distortion measurement equipment to set the bias and opperating point of a FET for optimum performance. In fact, there are other devices in general and one device in particular that provides far superior transient response and detail than the 2SK170.

Likewise, the issue of "resonant bonk" reduction is not really addressed fully in Scott's article. The application of silicon RTV or felt to the body of an MK-219 or 319 is only marginally better than doing nothing. Finding a techique and materials to get 30dB of midrange "bonk" reduction took me years to acheive.

There are probably a dozen other examples where this helpful DIY article, written several years ago for a hobyist audience does not offer rigorous and comprehensive best-in-class solutions.

So I guess in summary I'm saying DIY is cool - I always support and encourage it. But don't expect to fine a cookbook-type recipe floating around the 'Net that is going to specify the part values, part types, part vendors and specialized procedures that will allow you to make a state-of-the art modification in a few hours of your spare time.

Cheers, Michael
 
Michealjolly wrote

"In fact, there are other devices in general and one device in particular that provides far superior transient response and detail than the 2SK170."

I fitted a 2SK170BL to my MK319 but would be very interested in knowing what the
better device is. I understand that Michael may not wish to give details as he has
probably spent much time researching this, but heres hoping
 
thanks for all the replies..............i've made a start on the mic, stripped out the inner mesh, removed the plastic discs, and i'm just contemplating the switch wiring, which i hear needs to be expunged.
i would say that i'm not looking to rip off anyone's painstakingly acquired trade secrets here...........i just heard that a guide to mod-ing had been published, and wondered if it was available on the net.
next step i think is to replace the components with higher quality ones, and try and isolate the capsule a bit. other than that i think i'll just get a good shockmount and set it up carefully to avoid any potential bumping.
thanks for all the help, and i'll try that fet suggestion

ps. it's already sounding pretty damn cool. great chesty vocal quality
 
Seems that you are going along OK with the mods.

Dont forget to put the screws that held the plastic discs back after removing the discs.

I replaced all the electronic components on the board including the Fet and increased R1 and R2 to 1 gig. If you dont relish changing all the components then I would concentrate on C8 which is 1uf electrolytic. I replaced this with a 1uf polyester. Don't
think you will get a polyprop in due to lack of space.

Good luck
 
I could probably help you with the article, what is your mail address?
But I must say you wont get even close to what Michael does to this mic,
I just wish he lived in Europe so he could mod my 012 as well.
 
Just a few further thoughts about the MK319 after it has been modded.

I modded mine a couple of years ago and changed the Fet this year to the SK170 BL.

Until recently the only other mic 1 had for comparison with the MK319 was a Shure 545
which I bought 25 years ago.

I have now aquired an AT4050 which has an excellent reputation as a clean, clear vocal mic. So I was very interested in comparing it with the MK319. Here's how things
panned out. Bear in mind this is my opinion only.

Yes, the AT is a good mic. clear, clean with a slightly forward sound that somehow manages to give a very good account of what I am trying to record.

The MK319 has a darker, fuller sound with a great amount of detail but maybe
lacking a little in top end sparkle and 'air'.

They are clearly two very different mics and I think they are both excellent in
there own ways. In the end it's just what suits a particular voice that decides
which to use.
 
thanks again everybody.........i had indeed neglected to replace the screws after removing the discs.
i'm going to stick to those changes then.......the resistors, c8, and maybe use some better cable for the switches. oh and the fet as well.
 
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