A Quick Guide to Before Getting Started with Audio Production

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RedStone

RedStone

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When I was new to audio, I had to rely on the opinions of others on what I should buy for gear. What I've learned is that there is a lot of "snake oil" in the audio industry, and it's mixed with pixie dust for good measure.

Now that I've been at this a while, have gotten some seriously great mentorship, and have explored technical aspects of recording engineering with some depth, a few things stick out as being "essential" to get started on the right foot so that you can grow reliably in your perception of high fidelity sound while learning this craft.

1. Skip a meal or two out and get a pair of headphones that comply with a Harman curve, like the 7hz Salnotes Zero, HifiMan HE4000 SE, or Crinacle Zero:Red. Use these as a beginner's reference point for hi-fi sound. Listen to your favourite songs on them and learn what they sound like.

2. Most audio interfaces do a decent job these days. Get one that matches your needs, but make sure the output impedance of the headphone amp is low, and make sure the preamps aren't too noisy. It's a bit complicated to sus out in a post, but the basic idea is low impedance output on a headphone amp = able to drive more headphones without changing the frequency response of the headphones. I've always liked the Focusrite Scarlett line, but if you have some cash and don't need a lot of inputs or outputs, go for higher quality with an RME babyface, Apogee Duet, UAD Apollo, or something in a similar class.

3. If you are using Nearfield Studio Monitors, make sure they have a flat frequency response. Many do not. The Rockit 5s are a nice starting option. People knock them, but they are more flat and neutral than much more expensive options - they have limitations in their bass response, but it's all about understanding the compromises and learning what high fidelity is supposed to sound like.

And don't believe marketing hype or reviewer hype. Believe measurements. Understand that your room is also going to change the neutral response of your speakers. If your room isn't treated at least for 1st and 2nd early reflections at the listening position, as well as with bass trapping in the corners, mix at low volumes and take some time to set up your listening spot with your speakers placed centred along a short wall a couple of feet out from the wall. This will help at least tame down some of the issues to start, but it won't completely fix anything - it's just a solid starting point that you won't need to change later once you do work at treating your room, upgrading speakers etc.

4. If you live in an apartment or can't use speakers to mix, don't worry about it. Take what you would have spent on speakers and buy a good pair of open-back headphones like Sennheiser HD650, Hd600, Mass Drop HD6xx or closed-back headphones like AKG 271, or even a pair of In-Ears like the Zero:red - these are all specific recommendations because they sound accurate to what a good set of speakers in a well treated room would sound like. No gimmicks, just good tuning out of the box. They place things where they are supposed to be in a good mix - the exception is that most open-back headphones lack bass and need some EQ help to really make them sing. And you need to fiddle with finding the right gels for your in-ears to give you a good seal and full bass response.

Lucky for all of us, for $99 you can invest in something like Sound ID, and waves makes a similar product that goes on sale for even less. Slate also makes something similar, but requires a subscription to their plugin bundle. Or you can do your own free research (more on that below) to figure out what kind of custom EQ tuning needs to be done for your headphones to make them sound their best. I've found these sites to be invaluable resources for coming up with helpful tuning curves and other goodies:
If you can afford it, get something that comes highly recommended on ASR (golfing panther recommendations). Higher price-points for these kinds of headphones will mean better separation, spaciousness and clarity due to higher-quality components and more time spent by the manufacturer to fine-tune. Pay attention to what was done to EQ the recommendation (if anything) to make it really shine.

5. Manage your hearing. Don't crank the volume except for perhaps short bursts (And even then, avoid going too loud) to avoid permanent damage. I can't stress that enough. at sound pressure levels of 94db, you've got a little over an hour before you damage your hearing. At full blast on a pair of In-Ear Monitors (and most headphones), you've got around 2 minutes before your ears are permanently damaged.

6. Don't believe the hype on the latest and greatest "professional studio mics", especially in the sub-$500 world. Almost all of them rely on the same basic design and components. If you don't have $1200 to buy a higher-end mic like a Neumann TLM,or an AT4050, there are reliable options like Rhode NT1a. They have extremely low noise and distortion and a pleasing tone that can be transformed into something special. Sub-500, there isn't much else that is better, although MXL V67s are pretty darn good as well for the price.

7. Daws: If you have a newer Mac, just get and learn Logic Pro. The value you get is outstanding, and it comes packed with some pretty incredible features, instruments, A.I. session players, and tools of the trade. On windows, there are many good options like Studio One, Reaper, Ableton Live and Fruity Loops. If you want to use what the industry uses for mixing, you need to use Pro tools and import stems of your songs from your other daw to that. But honestly, it's probably not worth the hassle unless you are working for, or with a major production studio and are being forced to use it.

8. Plugins: When I started, I had to rely on as many free plugins as I could find. I still use freeverb too. Nowadays, subscriptions offer an interesting way to tap into some really high-quality plugins for mixing and even mastering. Waves, Plugin Alliance and Slate Audio all have options that can fit just about any need. I personally like Plugin Alliance because they give you a couple of free plugins each year with your subscription. Waves Plugins get knocked a lot in the home audio community, but they make some excellent plugins. Their CLA releases are stellar, as well as their SSL, Abbey Road and API plugins. Reaper's plugin suite can also be downloaded for free and can be a really good base set of plugins for mixing. The bottom line with plugins is that there is a lot of hype and fairy dust in the plugin world. It all boils down to needing a couple of flexible EQs, a few different compressors (including at least 1 limiter and 1 de-esser), a good-sounding and flexible reverb, and a good delay plugin. Having a channel strip like an SSL G series is also helpful. That's it. The rest is making sure your source tones sound good and then being strategic with how you use these tools.
 
When I was new to audio, I had to rely on the opinions of others on what I should buy for gear. What I've learned is that there is a lot of "snake oil" in the audio industry, and it's mixed with pixie dust for good measure.

Now that I've been at this a while, have gotten some seriously great mentorship, and have explored technical aspects of recording engineering with some depth, a few things stick out as being "essential" to get started on the right foot so that you can grow reliably in your perception of high fidelity sound while learning this craft.

1. Skip a meal or two out and get a pair of headphones that comply with a Harman curve, like the 7hz Salnotes Zero, HifiMan HE4000 SE, or Crinacle Zero:Red. Use these as a beginner's reference point for hi-fi sound. Listen to your favourite songs on them and learn what they sound like.

2. Most audio interfaces do a decent job these days. Get one that matches your needs, but make sure the output impedance of the headphone amp is low, and make sure the preamps aren't too noisy. It's a bit complicated to sus out in a post, but the basic idea is low impedance output on a headphone amp = able to drive more headphones without changing the frequency response of the headphones. I've always liked the Focusrite Scarlett line, but if you have some cash and don't need a lot of inputs or outputs, go for higher quality with an RME babyface, Apogee Duet, UAD Apollo, or something in a similar class.

3. If you are using Nearfield Studio Monitors, make sure they have a flat frequency response. Many do not. The Rockit 5s are a nice starting option. People knock them, but they are more flat and neutral than much more expensive options - they have limitations in their bass response, but it's all about understanding the compromises and learning what high fidelity is supposed to sound like.

And don't believe marketing hype or reviewer hype. Believe measurements. Understand that your room is also going to change the neutral response of your speakers. If your room isn't treated at least for 1st and 2nd early reflections at the listening position, as well as with bass trapping in the corners, mix at low volumes and take some time to set up your listening spot with your speakers placed centred along a short wall a couple of feet out from the wall. This will help at least tame down some of the issues to start, but it won't completely fix anything - it's just a solid starting point that you won't need to change later once you do work at treating your room, upgrading speakers etc.

4. If you live in an apartment or can't use speakers to mix, don't worry about it. Take what you would have spent on speakers and buy a good pair of open-back headphones like Sennheiser HD650, Hd600, Mass Drop HD6xx or closed-back headphones like AKG 271, or even a pair of In-Ears like the Zero:red - these are all specific recommendations because they sound accurate to what a good set of speakers in a well treated room would sound like. No gimmicks, just good tuning out of the box. They place things where they are supposed to be in a good mix - the exception is that most open-back headphones lack bass and need some EQ help to really make them sing. And you need to fiddle with finding the right gels for your in-ears to give you a good seal and full bass response.

Lucky for all of us, for $99 you can invest in something like Sound ID, and waves makes a similar product that goes on sale for even less. Slate also makes something similar, but requires a subscription to their plugin bundle. Or you can do your own free research (more on that below) to figure out what kind of custom EQ tuning needs to be done for your headphones to make them sound their best. I've found these sites to be invaluable resources for coming up with helpful tuning curves and other goodies:

If you can afford it, get something that comes highly recommended on ASR (golfing panther recommendations). Higher price-points for these kinds of headphones will mean better separation, spaciousness and clarity due to higher-quality components and more time spent by the manufacturer to fine-tune. Pay attention to what was done to EQ the recommendation (if anything) to make it really shine.

5. Manage your hearing. Don't crank the volume except for perhaps short bursts (And even then, avoid going too loud) to avoid permanent damage. I can't stress that enough. at sound pressure levels of 94db, you've got a little over an hour before you damage your hearing. At full blast on a pair of In-Ear Monitors (and most headphones), you've got around 2 minutes before your ears are permanently damaged.

6. Don't believe the hype on the latest and greatest "professional studio mics", especially in the sub-$500 world. Almost all of them rely on the same basic design and components. If you don't have $1200 to buy a higher-end mic like a Neumann TLM,or an AT4050, there are reliable options like Rhode NT1a. They have extremely low noise and distortion and a pleasing tone that can be transformed into something special. Sub-500, there isn't much else that is better, although MXL V67s are pretty darn good as well for the price.

7. Daws: If you have a newer Mac, just get and learn Logic Pro. The value you get is outstanding, and it comes packed with some pretty incredible features, instruments, A.I. session players, and tools of the trade. On windows, there are many good options like Studio One, Reaper, Ableton Live and Fruity Loops. If you want to use what the industry uses for mixing, you need to use Pro tools and import stems of your songs from your other daw to that. But honestly, it's probably not worth the hassle unless you are working for, or with a major production studio and are being forced to use it.

8. Plugins: When I started, I had to rely on as many free plugins as I could find. I still use freeverb too. Nowadays, subscriptions offer an interesting way to tap into some really high-quality plugins for mixing and even mastering. Waves, Plugin Alliance and Slate Audio all have options that can fit just about any need. I personally like Plugin Alliance because they give you a couple of free plugins each year with your subscription. Waves Plugins get knocked a lot in the home audio community, but they make some excellent plugins. Their CLA releases are stellar, as well as their SSL, Abbey Road and API plugins. Reaper's plugin suite can also be downloaded for free and can be a really good base set of plugins for mixing. The bottom line with plugins is that there is a lot of hype and fairy dust in the plugin world. It all boils down to needing a couple of flexible EQs, a few different compressors (including at least 1 limiter and 1 de-esser), a good-sounding and flexible reverb, and a good delay plugin. Having a channel strip like an SSL G series is also helpful. That's it. The rest is making sure your source tones sound good and then being strategic with how you use these tools. Insta Pro 2 APK is a modified version of Instagram that offers extra features like media downloads and enhanced privacy options. Many users are drawn to it because it is often advertised as Free and unrestricted compared to the official app. However, since it’s not available on the Google Play Store, there are security and privacy risks involved. Using such APKs can also violate Instagram’s terms of service and may lead to account restrictions. If you choose to try it, make sure you understand the risks and use a trusted source.
This is an excellent, grounded take on getting started in audio without falling for hype. You do a great job emphasizing neutral references, measurements over marketing, and the importance of understanding compromises rather than chasing perfection. The focus on hearing safety, room impact, and skill-building over expensive gear is especially valuable and often overlooked. Overall, this is practical advice that will genuinely help beginners develop reliable ears and make smarter long-term decisions.
 
I agree with a good deal that RedStone has written. One technical point? Headphone amp output impedance (AKA Z) there is no evidence that a source Z near zero is any better than one of a few tens of Ohms. What IS important is that the AI has the headphone "power" to drive your choice of cans and that will depend on two factors. The headphone sensitivity and their impedance which is pretty much the DC resistance i.e. 32R can measure about 30R on a digital meter*. After all, the humble TL072 OP AMP can have a small signal output Z of next to buggerall but it won't drive your headphones very well!

Even if an AI can deliver enough volts (about 5) and enough mA to drive your choice pretty loudly with tracks close to 0dFS, one problem often found is that you cannot get sufficient level with tracks at -18 or -20dB which is where they should be when recording. This is because some AIs simply do not put enough GAIN in the headphone circuit. That is better than it was a few years ago mind.

Probably the best solution is to choose an AI based on the facilities you want (as Red said, there no really bad ones these days) but factor in a small headphone amplifier. The Behringer HA400 is really very good for around $25.

*get one of those as well.

Dave.
 
I agree with a good deal that RedStone has written. One technical point? Headphone amp output impedance (AKA Z) there is no evidence that a source Z near zero is any better than one of a few tens of Ohms. What IS important is that the AI has the headphone "power" to drive your choice of cans and that will depend on two factors. The headphone sensitivity and their impedance which is pretty much the DC resistance i.e. 32R can measure about 30R on a digital meter*. After all, the humble TL072 OP AMP can have a small signal output Z of next to buggerall but it won't drive your headphones very well!

Even if an AI can deliver enough volts (about 5) and enough mA to drive your choice pretty loudly with tracks close to 0dFS, one problem often found is that you cannot get sufficient level with tracks at -18 or -20dB which is where they should be when recording. This is because some AIs simply do not put enough GAIN in the headphone circuit. That is better than it was a few years ago mind.

Probably the best solution is to choose an AI based on the facilities you want (as Red said, there no really bad ones these days) but factor in a small headphone amplifier. The Behringer HA400 is really very good for around $25.

*get one of those as well.

노원출장마사지
thank you for your suggestion
 
I'm on a facebook group and regularly get flamed for posting 'real' answers to the crazy questions people ask, and the totally stupid 'advice' they are given. Somebody posted a picture of some floor boards with ruberised pads for isolation. he had put them on his walls and was recommending them as great for improving the sound in the room. Solid advice is so rare nowadays.
 
I'm on a facebook group and regularly get flamed for posting 'real' answers to the crazy questions people ask, and the totally stupid 'advice' they are given. Somebody posted a picture of some floor boards with ruberised pads for isolation. he had put them on his walls and was recommending them as great for improving the sound in the room. Solid advice is so rare nowadays.
:ROFLMAO:
I always thought that egg cartons made the best acoustic treatment! But they must be vintage cardboard ones, not the newfangled styrofoam. Combine the extra large egg containers with the containers for small eggs to cover both low and high frequencies.
 
:ROFLMAO:
I always thought that egg cartons made the best acoustic treatment! But they must be vintage cardboard ones, not the newfangled styrofoam. Combine the extra large egg containers with the containers for small eggs to cover both low and high frequencies.
I found they work best with the eggs in them still.
 
I'm on a facebook group and regularly get flamed for posting 'real' answers to the crazy questions people ask, and the totally stupid 'advice' they are given. Somebody posted a picture of some floor boards with ruberised pads for isolation. he had put them on his walls and was recommending them as great for improving the sound in the room. Solid advice is so rare nowadays.
I'm a member of the same group, and saw that. :lol:

it's about 98% people who want to show off their racks of fancy studio gear, and about 2% people actually making music and fairly knowledgeable about what they're doing. Lot of chafe to wade through to get to the wheat - mostly it's entertaining and it's not like I MIND looking at pretty gear, though Reddit is better for actual knowledge in part because they're better at ID'ing/tagging actual pros there.
 
Small world drew - we sometimes get new members here who join, ask a question and then just vanish - but the topic carry on for years. The one thing here seems to be that we can disagree with each other without getting angry, and we seem to always air all sides of the discussion. It's healthy to have options that work for one, and not the other - or vice versa.

Looking at people on forums and social media, the really sad thing is that people don't experiment any more. Before plugging things in the minute they buy them, they ask questions, seek advice, weigh up options, get opinion on if they should set certain features. I've never done that - just steamed in with both feet, ignoring manuals and seeing how I get on. I think that's always worked for me.

I used to teach in a college (and later, schools) and I qualified when I was in my late 30s - mid life crisis I think. So much of the training was ultra boring, but a few things were really important. The vital thing was that we all learn best, differently - but there are quite specific groups. I wonder if the younger people for some reason are moving into different groups than people of my age? Skip this if you are bored already, but read these categories and see if one really is you?
  • Visual: Prefers images, diagrams, graphs, and spatial understanding.
  • Auditory: Prefers lectures, discussions, and spoken instructions.
  • Reading and Writing: Prefers processing information through text, lists, and reading.
  • Kinaesthetic (Doing things): Prefers physical experimentation, hands-on activity (I called this touchy feely - because that is me!)
  • Social and Group Activity : Learns best through collaboration and interaction with others.
  • Solitary: Learns best through self-study and alone.

 
I have a visual streak in me.
If it is a piece of complex software, I will say "Draw me a picture of it".
In electronics we have as picture of it called a circuit diagram.
With software, people say "A picture? No No No, it is a black art, and we're the masters of it".
I still say "Draw me a picture of it".
I've just been watching 'Question Time' on TV (A political show with a panel of politicians, and question asking public in the audience).
Our NHS keeps coming up for discussion. Everybody has opinions on how to 'fix' it, usually involving pouring more billions into it.
I would say "What is the NHS?", "Draw me a picture of it".
Only by looking at a picture of its structure can you identify unproductive waste, such as layers of 'management' managing other
layers of 'management', all on obscene salaries, and not a medical qualification between them.
Whether I also belong in the other groups is debateable, but visual, yes.
 
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