diy argosy console

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also i have found a firm to apply the thermo resin powder coating for me and that will be £60.00 uk sterling to do the whole console.. so im happy ;)
 
Powder coat MDF???

Never heard of that.

Or do you mean the rolling rack???
 
yes mdf like any wood can be powder coated, like i said its by means of a thermo fused resin based coating.
 
Nice pk, can't wait until I get into the higher-end studio stage to build one of these. For me it's more of a problem getting the tools to do everything. Do you have any bueprints or plans that you used to build this behemoth, or is everything from your own calculations/modifications?
 
pk1 said:
yes mdf like any wood can be powder coated, like i said its by means of a thermo fused resin based coating.
Click to expand...

And all this time I've been using WATCO stain. :mad:
 
i havent drawn the plans out yet as most of it is in my head but the base unit is very very easy the rest of it is also easy, the inserts are made by making a template as thats easier to translate to a drawing , but this will become obvious when i make the plan sheet for you all.. :)
 
pk1 said:
yes mdf like any wood can be powder coated, like i said its by means of a thermo fused resin based coating.
Click to expand...

Yea but, you still cant cut it with a plasma cutter...so there :rolleyes: :D
 
Just messin' with ya...very cool project...nicely done and thanks for posting the how to's here. MDF is very nice to work with isn't it...finishing it has always been my gripe...I learned a little something today.

punkin
 
Hey everyone...how about a rep power for this guy?!
 
well whats to do today..

well im going to see about the armrest. i did have plans to make it out of a solid piece of wood and then insert some padded sections but i have changed my mind on that one, i am going to make an all in one but pad the whole thing with foam then cover it in a fake black dimpled leather, so i gotta draw that up today and cut it out.. lots of fun :D the other insert has been put together and it looks good in there so im going with the larger inser for the desk, i have found some rack strips and captive nuts and screws and isolating washer all for under 30 bux here so im very happy most of the places i found were twice that!! these are 2 meter lengths and they are powder coated strips so im happy, they should look nice when fitted.

more pics to follow!!



yes mdf is very good to work with however as it is a carthogenic you have to wear a dust mask at all times you seriously dont want that dust clogging your lungs up. the other good thing about mdf is the fact you can now get it with a real wood veneer on each side and wood veneer side strip to fix on when cut, and when you apply a stain or a finish you cant tell theres any mdf in there..

The other good thing about mdf is the fact it can be routed.. and you can make mouldings on the edges that take very very well.. the only downfall about mdf is it does'nt like water.. get it wet and it separates
 
pk1 said:
why use a plasma cutter when you can have it laser cut??????
Click to expand...

Because I own a plasma cutter and not a laser cutter.

Laser cutters are typically for thinner materials anyway, though they cut extremely cleanly, by far cleaner than a plasma cutter.

However, a plasma cutter can cut metals (ferrous or not), leather, plastic, glass and safety glass, fiberglass, wood, MDF which I guess is a wood-like substance.

Two days ago, a friend of mine brought down his windows for his S10 pickup... all marked with cut lines. Zap... easy work for the plasma cutter.
 
oh yea plasmas are handy tools especially if you can afford one ;)

just clarifying the fact that you can have mdf laser cut ;)

however you can laser cut anything you just alter the wavelength and wattage of the beam for the material you cut
 
pk1 said:
oh yea plasmas are handy tools especially if you can afford one ;)

just clarifying the fact that you can have mdf laser cut ;)

however you can laser cut anything you just alter the wavelength and wattage of the beam for the material you cut
Click to expand...

Yep, not arguing, just adding to the large pile of information on this thread.

And with a plasma cutter, you don't have to adjust wavelength and wattage, you just pull the trigger and aim :)

Of all the big ticket tools I've purchased over the years (I buy one expensive tool a year in June... this year its a metal lathe!) I've gotten the most use out of the plasma cutter. If you work with thin stuff, you can get away with one of the $800 units. I went with a much more expensive unit because I wanted the ability to cut 1/2". When I started building the twin-turbo crewcab engine, I shopped around to find a shop to fabricate the exhaust manifolds for me. The cheapest price I could find was $1500 for the pair. The plasma cutter was $2300 or so, and since I buy one "big" tool every year, I just made the plasma cutter last year's "big" tool and made the manifolds myself.

Though I did discover why the cheapest shop wanted $1500 - turned out to be a ton of work. It's really not "a metal plate with some holes", its a complicated 3d structure which has to be air tight. Took me a few attempts too!

Anyway, sorry to have hijacked your thread....
 
dont worry your not hijacking it ;)

this is a place to share info and generally have a bit of fun and chat..

you ramble on frederik.. nice to have someone who likes to talk shop once in a while other than music and cables ;)

gotta honest though the only thing i have thought about buying is a second hand cnc routing table i can get them for under 2000 for a used unit.. so that might be my buy later this year and put it in the workshop
 
righty ho!!

today i ordered my nice new rack strips.. and i have to say they were very.. very..very cheap!!

i got 40 isolating washers, 40 captive nuts, 40 m6-20mm fixings and two lengths of 2 meter rack strips in a black powder coating for..... £30.81
:eek: wow that amazing, other places like studio spares were almost twice the price.... so im really really happy... well they arrive tomorrow so im gonna set them up in the inserts and do a test fit.. then i have to get it arranged for powder coating shortly for the console..

gotta put some cable holes in the panel for power cables etc.. so when thats done i will let you all know and put a couple of piccys up..

till later :D
 
This may be a stupid question... but if you are recording at home... what do you need 48 channels for exactly? Nice construction btw, wish i could do such a good job for my room :(
 
technominds said:
This may be a stupid question... but if you are recording at home... what do you need 48 channels for exactly? Nice construction btw, wish i could do such a good job for my room :(
Click to expand...

I have 128 input channels in my studio. Half of them are "tape returns", so essentially I can mix 64 analog inputs along with 64 tape returns (which are digital).

My reason for expanded out this far was mostly because some of the rack synth modules, drum machines and samplers I use most often, have eight individual outs per unit. By using those outputs, I can "flange" a snare drum without affecting the rest of the drum sounds, for example. Of course I could leave the rest of the drum mix on stereo L/R outputs and just set the snare to come out by itself, but that requires futzing with the drum machine to make such changes for different recordings. Much easier to leave everything as an individual out, and use a console to do what you want as far as panning, volume, EQ, sending to outboards, etc.

Using the mixer to control gain also allows the midi modules to run at full volume or near full volume, rather than using midi to control the volume. This offers a sonic advantage as most synth modules produce a lot more noise than music, when the midi volume parameter turns the volume way down. Mixers rarely exhibit this issue. Its all about headroom :)
 
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