Calling VINTAGE TX (Rolf)! (My restoration project!)

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cjacek

cjacek

Analogue Enthusiast
Hi Rolf,

I thought I'd ask 'cause you restore Open Reels for a living so here goes .... I picked up the AKAI GX-270D from an elderly gentleman who said the machine did not work properly, "worked, then kept slowing down ..", he said. He was giving it away for free!! (The original Akai aluminium empty reel was also included :D ). Cosmetically, the GX-270D, was almost mint but very dusty and it seemed that the heads and tape path were never cleaned! :eek: I took it home and the first thing I did, before testing it, was I cleaned the heads and tape path to the best of my ability. (I just didn't want to run a perfectly new tape on a filthy machine!). Anyway, I tested all functions, recorded and played back for a good 5 - 10 minutes. All was well. No problems. Was it that the previous owner didn't have a clue on how to operate it ? I don't know. It worked perfectly when I tested it. :confused: Anyway, that's not the point of my rather lengthy post now .. ;) What I would like to know is HOW and with WHAT do I PROPERLY and THOROUGHLY clean the heads and that whole area where the heads are located in and also how you'd clean the pc boards, all WITHOUT tearing these appart piece by piece ? (I already dissassembled all the knobs, pinch roller, silver front face and gave these a "bath" - literally!). The only stuff which bothers me (I hate filthy things) is the head area and pc boards - all things in and around that area have dust, dirt and oxide. Interestingly when I looked inside the back, there were cobwebs all over and dust! I did what I could with my duster spray and rag but the pc boards are still a bit dusty ... I really would like to restore them properly. I actually looked into this and found a company, near my area, which stocks pretty impressive compounds which are meant to clean pc boards. These are plastic safe and are meant to be sprayed generously onto the pc boards, while the machine is tilted so that the extra moisture drips down outside of the machine. The person I spoke with said the dry time is about 30 seconds. This is what he recommended: http://www.mgchemicals.com/products/406b.html

This sounds really good to me and I would like to know if you'd recommend this as well ?

Outside of the 406B, I have Caig Deox-it (5%) and Caig Lube and of course dusters. Where do I use these ? Can you PLEASE recommend something else (from their website) that I need or may need ? What about for the "heads" area problem ? Some parts are really dirty with oxide and are even hard to remove with alcohol! :eek: There's also spaces I can't reach which are dirty ... Is there a spray or solution of some sort which you can just spray and it'll do the rest ? What about this one: http://www.mgchemicals.com/products/407c.html

What about lubrication ? (I heard a bit of "squealing" when I used "rewind").

Anyway, sorry to go on and on but I need some advice here ....

Thanks again for your time! :)

Daniel
 

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Another one for the Akai ...
 

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What are those yellow/orange spots on the heads ?? (I cleaned them with alcohol and they're still there!) :confused: :confused:
 

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And here too ....
 

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Another shot ...
 

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Hi Daniel
Congratulations to your Akai :)
Looks like a sweet machine, but the heads has problems...
Record and play head has rust or something inside :(
Has the deck been stored in a basement or ?
A small discoloration can be found on some of the glass-heads, but not sure what's on your heads, is it outside or inside?
I noticed the tape-guides has some dirt and grit, I use a soft thin strip of a cotton-towl around each guide with head-cleaner and in some very dirty cases Brasso to get the crud off, be very careful and wipe everything afterwards, don't get Brasso on any plastic parts.
Cleaning the inside boards, yes timeconsuming, on this model you can't take out each board so small soft brushes and air is what I use.
Some decks with grease and grit is very hard to clean like new again.
Be very careful using chemicals on the boards, can make more harm then good. Superwash may work good with a soaked Q-tip but don't spray the whole board Daniel..
There is no easy way to clean, a box of Q-tips and lots of patience and time. ;)

About lubing this model, only a small amount where the linkage is between the reel-tables.
Most important is all switches on the front, lift up the small rubber-covers for: Tape Speed, Tape/Source, Tape selector. Use contact-cleaner and engage the switch afterwards 8-10 times.
 
Daniel, looking at the pictures of the headstack again, too me it's on the inside of the heads, play/rec to the right has that yellow tone.
R-erase head is the worst one...
Did you test recording on a used tape or ?
 
"Free" doesn't necessarily mean "good" in some cases ...

Thanks for the reply Rolf! I really appreciate it! :)

Re the heads ... To me it looks like the discoloration (rust) is on the inside too ... I tested with a new Quantegy 456 for recording (with a mic) and then playback. I gotta confess that I used headphones and could only hear playback on the L or R side, depending which side was recorded (that's normal, I know). From what I gathered, the play-back was fine with no dropouts and with minimal hiss but I though it sounded a bit "lo fi", kinda like you put a pillow over a speaker, even at 7 1/2 ips. I don't know ... The question then is: Should I even bother with the clean-up if there may be a serious problem with the heads ?

Thanks!

Daniel :)
 
When you were recording did you set the tape-selector to Low Noise ?
Tried demag the heads ?
When working right the sound is pretty clear Daniel, should not be muffled at all. :(
 
Vintage TX said:
When you were recording did you set the tape-selector to Low Noise ?
Tried demag the heads ?
When working right the sound is pretty clear Daniel, should not be muffled at all. :(

Rolf,

I was wondering about that tape selector ? Should it be set to "wide range" for Quantegy 456 ? What are the differences between the settings ?

Anyway, thanks so much for helping me out through this but here's what happened after I posted my last comments ... I got better entry to the space between where the heads are by removing a couple of screws, cleaned it very well with alcohol and cotton, air sprayed it ... and even put some butter (YES, BUTTER! :eek: ) on the moving parts and the metal part on which the rubber roller spins, so it spins easier you know .. ;) . (Oh, tell me butter is alright .. ). I then reassembled the machine (without the wooden cover) and tested it properly this time. I hooked up my cd player with a nice Elvis cd, recorded it to tape at 7 1/2 ips (and switched between the tape settings - as I still wasn't sure which setting to use). Now, I'm not sure what happened but the sound reproduced from the Akai was BETTER than the source CD! WOW!! The tape or the machine or both, seemed to have made the overall sound THICKER and nicer in some way. NO LOSS IN HIGH FREQ! It seems that whatever that yellow/orange stuff is inside the heads is not having an effect ? Is it possible that it's something from the factory ? Anyway, I had to remove the belt which moves the counter 'cause it was pretty loose and it was making that "squeaking noise I told you about. (I don't need the counter anyway .. ;) ). I'll post some pictures and a short movie of the Akai at work! All in all the recorder works and sounds good now ... What happened from yesterday, I don't know .. :confused:

Daniel
 
There it is ... NICE and CLEAN! :D

Also, here's a short movie clip of the 270D in action! ;) To d'l the 1.30 mb mpg file click HERE

Is it just me or do the AKAI's in general have a lower noise/hiss floor than the TEAC's ? :confused:

Thanks again Rolf!

Daniel :)
 

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That was great news :)
The sound is good on these models, even with slower speed and high-bias tapes.
But the "butter' part I would not suggest Daniel. :rolleyes:
For the tape-guides take a strip of cotton, use a small amount of Brasso and go around each guide, pull it back and fourth with the rag and all that crud comes off, let it dry and use another clean strip to wipe all the residue off.
Same with the Right tape-tension arm, take it off first and clean it.
The other tape guide with the sensor for auto-reverse function, only use head-cleaner and wipe it dry afterwards.

About the settings for Low Noise and Wide Range, when you record with 456 use Low Noise, new this deck was set for Scotch #211 with Low Noise.
Wide range is the good old Maxell 35-90 type, but Quantegy 406 or 407 makes the result much better. ;)

Not sure what the problem is with the heads, can be the crystal inside has discoloration maybe ?
If you decide to keep it, maybe a relap of those bad ones is a good investment Daniel.

Take the pinch-roller off and put one drop of light machine oil on the shaft.
Don't loose the small black washer behind the chrome-cover.

Glad you found where the noise came from, put another drop of oil on the counter-gear in front of the belt-pulley and the noise will go away, slip a new belt on and it will work correctly again. :)

Enjoy the music !
 
WOW, that's looks sweet Daniel :rolleyes:
What Teac do you compare with, your 34 or ?
 
Some spec's Daniel:
Wow and Flutter: Less than 0.07 % at 7-1/2 speed.
Less than 0.10 % at 3-3/4 speed.

Frequency response: 30 to 23,000 Hz +/- dB at 7-1/2 speed.
30 to 19,000 Hz +/- dB at 3-3/4 speed.

Distortion: Less than 1.0 %
S/N Ratio: Better than 54 dB

Here is the numbers for the heads if you want to search for replacements:
Recording/Erase head: RE4-6
Playback: P4-202

By the way, your deck was made 1975 ;)
 
But the "butter' part I would not suggest Daniel. :rolleyes:
For the tape-guides take a strip of cotton, use a small amount of Brasso and go around each guide, pull it back and fourth with the rag and all that crud comes off, let it dry and use another clean strip to wipe all the residue off.
Same with the Right tape-tension arm, take it off first and clean it.
The other tape guide with the sensor for auto-reverse function, only use head-cleaner and wipe it dry afterwards.

I actually got really in there and cleaned the tape guides and most others you specify with a cotton strip, q tips and 99% alcohol (didn't have Brasso). Gotta tell you that these are almost in new like cond. Very clean. Say, Rolf, could I use the Cailube X-10S for all the lubing issues ? It's something called "instrument oil" with sillicone from Caig Labs. That's all my local electronics store has for "oils".

About the settings for Low Noise and Wide Range, when you record with 456 use Low Noise, new this deck was set for Scotch #211 with Low Noise. Wide range is the good old Maxell 35-90 type, but Quantegy 406 or 407 makes the result much better. ;)

So just to reiterate, I'm to use the "Low Noise" setting for my Quantegy 456 ? Which tapes, that can still be bought new, would be good to use with the "Wide Range" setting then ? I'm still confused though ... What is meant by "Wide Range" and does it mean it's a superior setting ? I thought 456 was the best tape ?? .. :confused: Please explain.

Not sure what the problem is with the heads, can be the crystal inside has discoloration maybe ?
If you decide to keep it, maybe a relap of those bad ones is a good investment Daniel.

Maybe. I'll have to see. But I gotta tell you that upon very, very close listenning with my headphones, I noticed very faint, either "bleed" from another track or incomplete erasure of previous recordings. Again, it's very faint and also it sounds a bit like a very very faint "rumble". Not significant enough to worry tho. I think that if it plays and records as well as expected, then I'll leave the heads alone, at least for now. ;)

Take the pinch-roller off and put one drop of light machine oil on the shaft. Don't loose the small black washer behind the chrome-cover.

Again, would the Cailube X-10S be alright for this and other lubing issues ? As for the black washer between the chrome cover and pinch roller front, I didn't see it there. :eek: Previous owner must have lost it! :rolleyes: Is it a big deal to have it ?

Glad you found where the noise came from, put another drop of oil on the counter-gear in front of the belt-pulley and the noise will go away, slip a new belt on and it will work correctly again. :)

Do you have a replacement belt ? It looks like I'd have to dismantle the right motor to put the belt on! :eek:

Enjoy the music !

Thanks Rolf! :)

Daniel
 
Vintage TX said:
WOW, that's looks sweet Daniel :rolleyes:
What Teac do you compare with, your 34 or ?

Yeah, even the 34B ... But I guess I was just very surprised that for a 1975 machine, the 270D was quiet as a mouse! Very little hiss. The 34B is also very quiet. They're about the same.

Daniel :)
 
Vintage TX said:
Some spec's Daniel:
Wow and Flutter: Less than 0.07 % at 7-1/2 speed.
Less than 0.10 % at 3-3/4 speed.

Frequency response: 30 to 23,000 Hz +/- dB at 7-1/2 speed.
30 to 19,000 Hz +/- dB at 3-3/4 speed.

Distortion: Less than 1.0 %
S/N Ratio: Better than 54 dB

Here is the numbers for the heads if you want to search for replacements:
Recording/Erase head: RE4-6
Playback: P4-202

By the way, your deck was made 1975 ;)

Thanks for the specs, parts list and date! I really appreciate it! :)

Daniel
 
That was alot of questions Daniel. :cool:
About new tape I would buy Quantegy 406 or 407 for the wide range.
And the normal setting for 456.
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Black washer prevent the pinch-roller movement in and out on playback and recording, and can be your problem with cross-talk and poor erase...
Take the pinch-roller off again adn check if the other washer is missing on the bottom of the capstan-shaft, it has a washer on each side of the pinch-roller.
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I have never tried Cailube X-105 but what you describe it should work fine for the capstan-axel (1 small drop) and the counter-gear.
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Replacing the counter-belt, you leave the motor alone, but take off the Reel-table instead from the motor-shaft. Be sure to measure the height from the base and up to the edge of the reel-table as this is important for the tape-travel path to the tape-tensioner.
If I remember right the reel-table has 2 allen-screws to hold it in place.
And they are metric.
Some models were Phillips so you need to check before "surgery"
If you can measure the length I probably have a belt in stock for you, and the small washers for the pinch-rollers.
--------------------------------------------------------------------

You did a great job cleaning it up Daniel it sure looks sweet ! ;)
 
I would buy # 852 for the tough dirt, but be careful on the pc-board because of the short hog hair. :D
Also a package of # 855-5 with horse hair that you can spray cleaner on and wipe down small parts.
I checked the Cailube X-10 S, should work just fine and you can also use that for your 34, tension-rollers shaft, pinch-roller shaft Daniel.
 
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