Ampex MM-1000 Story...

[sweetbeats]

Its really nice when stuff works out that way, huh, Jeff? Its almost like finding money in your pocket that you had forgotten about.

Okay, so like I mentioned above I'm going to be going through the mode control switch assembly (that's the bank of 8 back-lit switches that control the record arming and playback source for each track)...I think this is importat at this point just to rule out niggling relay switching issues. I know the sync and record relays all work because you can hear them, but sometimes it takes a little wiggle of the switch when going rapidly between modes and things are dirty in there so my plan is just to get them cleaned out, a good rinsing of DeoxIT D5 and some exercising and that should help. Plus I'll get the backlight lamp for track 1 replaced and I think I'll remove the amber gels from all of them. The backlight lamp is just a clear incandescent lamp but there are little color gels for each of the three switch positions: red for record, amber for non-record/safe and green for sync. The problem with the amber is it makes it harder to differentiate between the green and the red since non of the colors are very vibrant. With the amber gel out the switches are a fairly bright white like the whit transport control buttons and there's just better contrast between the other positions. A little OCD but I'm in there anyway, two of the amber gels have disappeared over the years, and it enhances the visual presentation and functionality. And I'll get to the above mentioned wire repairs too.

ALSO...I AM doing some recapping BUT it is only 8 caps total, and it is an equipment safety issue. It is a well known Ampex 440 issue on the record amplifier PWA (Ampex-ese for PCB...means Printed Wire Assembly). There's a tantalum cap that can cause trouble if it blows...failure mode for tant caps is shorting, and this can cook its associated record head. Bad, bad, bad. The fix is to replace the tant (C32) with an electrolytic. I've got all 8 of those tants pulled...I'll get the pads cleaned up and put the new caps in and that'll be done.

And that's it for caps for now. The power supplies are running clean and the system sounds great so no rush.

I also took a spare eq card and removed a trim pot and disassembled it to see how they're put together to develop a cleaning strategy...absolutely FILTHY inside...I'll see how the DeoxIT does.

 

[Bguzaldo]

My old Ibanez Roadstar II passive electric bass never sounded so good (literally) and I know its not the preamp I'm running it through as I've used it before and the Ampex is doing something to that signal...I'm just running the Ibanez straight into an ART TubeMP OPL, which IIRC is NOT a tube preamp but has a 12AX7 in it as a filter...the rest is solid state opamp circuitry...garden variety. Made in China, and I wouldn't be the least bit surprised if it is the same under the skin as a Behringer product that has an nearly identical control layout and feature set. Handy little tool and CHEAP. Gets the job done, but not magical. Now, put the signal through the electronics on the Ampex and I don't know how it pulls out what it pulls out but I'm monitoring out of one ear on a set of Yamaha headphones and I'm not sure I could handle it coming off a set of near-fields. Its that good to my ears, and then when I reproduce it off of tape its all that and a bag of chips...same fast dynamic sound but more mature (or something...hard to describe...) than when monitoring the input.

Dang. I have a rack FULL of processors and tweakers...I have no idea what I'm going to do with them now.

I literally got goose bumps when I read this. That's so awesome! Its been so much fun following this thread. You seriously rock, Will you be my dad!?

As for the mixer...you should see if you can strike gold twice and look for another nice rehab project because I this thing deserves the best, I can't imagine what a nice set of drums through a nice mixer will would like through this baby!

Your loyal follower,
-Barrett

 

[sweetbeats]

Will you be my dad!?

Whaaaa??

Your loyal follower

Just be careful NOT to follow me into gear addiction. I'm understanding now the value of just having decent gear, not a lot of gear. A lot of old gear means lots of projects...I think the MM-1000 may very well be the smartest purchase I ever made simply because it wants to work and it is relatively simple to repair, and it will just keep going, and going, and going...

AND of course because, so far (with my very limited tests) it sounds awesome...I just can't imagine having to do much with the sound, like, to "fix" things you know? Seriously...I don't know for what I'm going to need a bunch of stuff that's presently racked...

OH...and I suppose it was a smart purchase because I got it for silly money. That always helps.

As for the mixer...you should see if you can strike gold twice...

Well, AFAIC the MM-1000 was twice. I know its not a boutique brand but it does sound nice...warm and full...that prototype Tascam board I got for free will make a nice partner for the MM-1000...it still needs quite a bit of work, but (unlike most inputs and outputs on most Tascam boards) it will easily handle the MM-1000's +4/+8dBu operating level:

 

[Bguzaldo]

Whaaaa??



Just be careful NOT to follow me into gear addiction. I'm understanding now the value of just having decent gear, not a lot of gear. A lot of old gear means lots of projects...I think the MM-1000 may very well be the smartest purchase I ever made simply because it wants to work and it is relatively simple to repair, and it will just keep going, and going, and going...

AND of course because, so far (with my very limited tests) it sounds awesome...I just can't imagine having to do much with the sound, like, to "fix" things you know? Seriously...I don't know for what I'm going to need a bunch of stuff that's presently racked...

OH...and I suppose it was a smart purchase because I got it for silly money. That always helps.



Well, AFAIC the MM-1000 was twice. I know its not a boutique brand but it does sound nice...warm and full...that prototype Tascam board I got for free will make a nice partner for the MM-1000...it still needs quite a bit of work, but (unlike most inputs and outputs on most Tascam boards) it will easily handle the MM-1000's +4/+8dBu operating level:

I'm young, but I've already been an addict for 2 years and have spent every single penny I've earned at my minimum wage part-time job on gear, and I couldn't be happier. But I actually just moved out of my house for the first time, so looks like I'll be takin a break from sugar mountain...only for a little while

The mixer looks awesome and I'll bet it sounds just as good!

BTW the "will you be my dad" thing was a joke, I'm not that crazy, but its often fun to appear that crazy

 

[sweetbeats]

I knew the "dad" thing was a joke...anyway, nobody is crazy enough to want me to be their dad except my kids and they didn't have a choice in the matter, so...

Anyway...

Got C32 replaced on all 8 record cards, cleaned the card contacts as well as the eq daughter board contacts and the one pot on each eq board...on to the mode control assembly.

 

[sweetbeats]

I've already been an addict for 2 years and have spent every single penny I've earned at my minimum wage part-time job on gear, and I couldn't be happier.

And another thing...at the risk of being wayyy too serious, edgey and cantankerous, if I was your dad you'd want me to get off your case already because I'd be on you constantly to come to your senses and quit spending every single penny on gear, to save some so you can take care of yourself and others, and to realize that when your days are done you can't take ANY of it with you...and last but not least that you'd better be doing something with what gear you DO have to bring people together...something to cause you to interface with the world in a positive way as opposed to stagnating in self-glorification.

Then you'd say "Dude what's your damage?" and I'd say "Son, I've got issues and I don't want you to have the same trouble." And THEN, depending on your age of course, we'd crack a cold one and talk about it.

Good talk, son.

 

[Bguzaldo]

And another thing...at the risk of being wayyy too serious, edgey and cantankerous, if I was your dad you'd want me to get off your case already because I'd be on you constantly to come to your senses and quit spending every single penny on gear, to save some so you can take care of yourself and others, and to realize that when your days are done you can't take ANY of it with you...and last but not least that you'd better be doing something with what gear you DO have to bring people together...something to cause you to interface with the world in a positive way as opposed to stagnating in self-glorification.

Then you'd say "Dude what's your damage?" and I'd say "Son, I've got issues and I don't want you to have the same trouble." And THEN, depending on your age of course, we'd crack a cold one and talk about it.

Good talk, son.

Thanks, you're the best dad ever!

 

[analogkid]

gone too long

Damn, I just reALIZED how long I've been absent from these forums! That Ampex looks like a fantastic machine Cory. Keep up the work and the posting.
I'm knee deep in realigning to Otari 4 tacker I have; honestly I just need to find a good solid machine instead of chasing this one.

AK

 

[cjacek]

Hear, hear!

............................

 

[sweetbeats]

Mode Control Assembly Ready...

Here's a really bad picture...sorry...only have my cell phone on-hand for capturing pictures...

Here's what the assembly needed:

• Cleaning...there was copious amounts of some yellow oily/greasy substance all over the thing. Maybe some kind of contact cleaner, though what it mostly was doing was making sure that the dust and dirt stuck to everything...
• wire repairs...I'm pretty sure now that this assembly was down-converted from a 16-track version as there were several unprotected and stripped wires loose in there as well as clear evidence of wire splices...not all were protected, some being a short just waiting to happen...and those that were "protected" just had very old electrical tape around them (which was sliding off leaving the splices unprotected)
• A couple bulbs replaced
• removal of amber color gels

So I did all that, and in the process I found that some of the switch housings were cracked which is why some of the color gels had fallen out anyway (the little tabs that hold the gels had cracked off), and that some of the reed contacts needed straightening...and did I mention cleaning? Yuck! I even got in there and cleaned all the contacts. I used spares to replace the switches with cracked housings. Much better now. Also cleaned up the wire routing as well as the master source switch. This was a mini project in and of itself.

Now, here are some thoughts that percolated up during the process:

The switches are made by Switchcraft. They are little works of art. I'll have to take some better pictures later. Each switch is made up of well over 50 individual parts. That may not sound like a good thing, but it means that, with a screwdriver, you can remove individual reeds and burnish if needed. I mean, yeah, its overkill, but that switch will easily outlast my lifetime!

AK, good to hear from you!

 

[analogkid]

Nice work... what little micro machiens those are!

 

[cjacek]

I totally get Cory's fascination with these machines and its inner parts n' things... I too consider myself on that same boat. In fact, I'll probably seldom use some of my recorders but will keep them nevertheless as a classic car collector may keep one, just because he loves 'em, is part of his identity and appreciation of the technology. In fact, I'd strongly urge Cory never to get rid of his 1000 (or the M___ for that matter) even if he opts to use something else. It's a work of art and the amount of restoration that will go into it (and already has) will put it in another bracket, not solely as a project machine.

 

[sweetbeats]

Okay...I'll keep it.

So here you go, Daniel (et al)...better pics of those "inner parts n' things"...here is a better series of views of the mode control assembly:

 

[Muckelroy]

That's just........insane.

 

[ofajen]

I totally get Cory's fascination with these machines and its inner parts n' things... I too consider myself on that same boat. In fact, I'll probably seldom use some of my recorders but will keep them nevertheless as a classic car collector may keep one, just because he loves 'em, is part of his identity and appreciation of the technology. In fact, I'd strongly urge Cory never to get rid of his 1000 (or the M___ for that matter) even if he opts to use something else. It's a work of art and the amount of restoration that will go into it (and already has) will put it in another bracket, not solely as a project machine.

I feel the same way about my 3M M-23 2-track. Way too much time put into it to sell it lightly. Luckily, it happens to be a killer mix deck, and the only 1/4" machine I still have, so it will see some use. I must say, though, that I am glad to be spending my music time on music, not machine restoration, as I did last summer. Hang in there, Cory.

Cheers,

Otto

 

[cjacek]

So here you go, Daniel (et al)...better pics of those "inner parts n' things"...here is a better series of views of the mode control assembly:

Ooo, I too now see how overbuilt the 1000 is. This is really wonderful (and rare) to see such craftsmanship. It's a keeper!

 

[sweetbeats]

Thanks for the comments, gents.

Its hard at times to feel like there is progress as the MM-1000 has been sitting in that spot for so many months and it always looks kind of the same...sheet over the top and brick-a-brack in the bottom of the console, but I reviewed movies over the past few months and it HAS come along.

Otto, I look forward to using the machine; being in your position, though I'm sure you can relate to this stage being important. I nest when I go through the machine and it helps me to feel confident of the machine and less distracted by worry about whether or not it'll keep going. I have to say that from what i've seen the Ampex will naturally instill a certain confidence by virtue of its simplicity and over-engineered construction.

Its not for everybody I'm sure. I guess I say that because I talk it up like there's nothing better. Its all about fit and the best balance of compromises and the Ampex fits better and better the more I work with it. Learn about the choices and spend time thinking about what is the best fit for you. The MM-1000 is huge. You have to have space. You won't put it on a table to open it up you know? I used to do a lot of my own work on my vehicles in the past...rebuilt the motor in my '76 VW pop-top at home...rebuilt the head in my wife's '79 Rabbit and did lots of work on my diesel Rabbit and my Jetta GLI too. I've spent my share of time in the engine compartment of my '84 Chevy Suburban too. Working on the Ampex is more like working on a car than a piece of electronic equipment...laying down inside it on my back, climbing up on top of it, etc. But that feels natural to me. And another example is the Mode Control switches pictured above. You don't see that kind of construction anymore, and not for a long time. It'd be on a circuit board with a logic chip. Its smaller and there aren't any contacts to get dirty. What I like about what's in the Ampex is that I could make that thing work in a pinch no matter what...A piece of wire or aluminum foil, some tape and I could keep it going until a more permanent repair can be implemented...not gonna happen if a logic chip goes bad. What's liklihood of a chip going bad? Not high, but again its just a comfort level thing with me and my abilities...the Ampex fits. I guarantee the Ampex is NOT ROHS nor Energy Star compliant either... Probably doesn't matter to many but may to some...I think it draws, like, 4 amps at idle.

I'm well into going through the rest of the control panel...cleaning it up cosmetically and cleaning the switches and such.

I really need to get new bearings for the rolling guides too. Its not critical but they are making whale-song.

BUT...its really close to being ready to track, just need to find some way to preamp mics and monitor playback since there's no mixer handy at this time...

 

[sweetbeats]

A fun little wayside...

look back to post #218...

I took the 2" flutter idler roller and jewel bearings to the local jeweler in my small town today with a copy of the cleaning instructions from the manual. He had never seen anything like what I brought him but had worked with similar pieces in watches...and the instructions in the manual are pretty specific. I cleaned up the roller before dropping it off (being careful not to mess with the little pivots at each end of the roller) because the manual states that any oxide should be polished off before the ultrasonic bath...it cleaned up really nice. Then I marked with a scribe which jewel assembly was from the bottom and which was from the top of the idler assembly, and then left the roller and jewel assemblies in the hands of the jeweler. Should be ready sometime next week. He'll soak the parts in an ultrasonic bath and then put a drop of jewel oil with a "#21 hypodermic" into each jewel. I'll reassemble.

***NOTE: one thing I neglected to mention in post #218 is that you should always mark the orientation of the jewel housings relative to the idler housing before disassembly so they go back in exactly as they came out. I did not do this, but there is a dimple in each jewel housing from each set screw so I think I can get it back in just fine. This is all outlined in the manual very well so never underestimate your ability to be a complete dumba** and read the manual.

Cost to have the work done? $15. Sweet.

I'll polish up the idler housing while I wait for the tricky bits and I anticipate it will look and perform as good as new in the end.

Also, I finally got the MM-1000 control panel stripped so I can give it and all its bits a good cleaning.

That will mark the last of the cleaning and "going through it" activities.

And now for an OCD moment: look back on a picture of the MM-1000...there is a single backlit toggle switch for the lifter function switch over to the left of the control panel. It is the same as the mode control switches (the row of 8 toggles to the right of the control panel). The mode control switches turn red when in the up position, green when in the down position thanks to the small plastic red and green gels inside the switch. The lifter control does the same thing (red up, green down) but I'm bothered by this as the up position makes the lifters extend...up makes the lifters "go", and down is the lifter defeat position...it makes them "stop"...yes, I'm going to switch the gels around so that the switch turns green when up for lifters "go", and red when down for lifters "stop". This has been an OCD moment.

 

[sweetbeats]

Busy-busy...

I'm calling it a night so I'll post up more pics/details later, but I got the 2" flutter idler parts back from the jeweler today and reassembled the idler...its awesome.

ALSO got the control panel COMPLETELY reassembled after deep cleaning and polishing it up...

More later...

 

[analogkid]

ummm..... Wow.