1/4" master to CD

  • Thread starter Thread starter Golden
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cjacek said:
....but not nearly as funny as your assumption of faithful transfer to 16 bit / 44.1 khz. :rolleyes: Even "effectively infinite" is light years better than any current sampling technology. Why go elsewhere when analog is as good as it gets or will get ? Why reinvent the wheel ?? Oh yeah, I know, profits ... :rolleyes:

OK Daniel. Show me where in the discussions we've had on this forum, I said that 44.1/16 is perfect, and I'll give you an apology. Fail to do so and guess who owes that apology...

Regards, Tim
 
Tim Gillett said:
OK Daniel. Show me where in the discussions we've had on this forum, I said that 44.1/16 is perfect, and I'll give you an apology. Fail to do so and guess who owes that apology...

Regards, Tim

The discussion, as per the original thread, is about a 1/4" master tape transfer to CD (which of course is 16/44.1) and, as it pertains, you make it sound like the only difference between analog and digital is the way it is captured or that the person is doing something wrong, has inferior hardware or something else might be the matter with the person. I don't have to quote you 'cause it's all here, in every one of your posts, present and past, clearly laid out, in one form or another. I'm not going to fall prey to your logic or argumentative style.
 
But, if you really want a couple of quotes (from this thread):

Analog tape is just another analog sound source. The digital recorder sees it as just another waveform to be converted into code.

A "fat" tape sound will become a different set of numbers from a non "fat" tape sound's set of numbers. That's it.

All assuming of course, good gear and good technique.

Beck seemed to be telling you there is some quality about analog tape's fat sound that digitising and CD's have problems reproducing.
I responded that as far as the recorder is concerned it's just another waveform to be crunched into numbers.

I have been using an M Audio 2496 card for about 4 years, mainly transferring all sorts of analog audio tapes to PC and then usually to CD, and have never had anything like the problems you seem to be having.​

I don't know about you but this sounds to me like you feel the CD can faithfully capture the source analog signal.
 
BTW, I never said "perfect" so don't try to trap me, as seems your forte these days.
 
Golden said:
Beck, you deserve some positive rep for your help... However, I've already repped-ya sometime in the past and the little window tells me to spread it around... I've gotta do what the little window says...

Thanks! :)

I appreciate the thought. :)

I was looking over my post trying to think of a way to simplify concepts.

Some tape decks don’t have input or output controls. For the ones that do you have a gain staging issue within the deck itself. For the 22-2 when the input and output knobs are at 7 it’s as if it has no input or output knobs. So what goes in is what comes out – unity. Now you have the best performance the machine can muster – best signal-to-noise, lowest distortion, etc.

The rest is up to whatever digital device you use to capture it… which can be bad news, depending on what you have.

What many people have found is that by emphasizing certain characteristics of tape or analog sources the digital transfer will sound “Better.” This depends on the type of music of course.

You might try accentuating frequencies during taping that tend to come back weak on your CD, or recording hot to tape so you have a higher harmonic distortion on the tape – a little fuzziness. Or mix to tape at 7.5 ips. Maybe use a compressor in between the 22-2 and soundcard. These are a few of the things people have been doing over the years to “warm up” digital on the production side. Just experiment and you’re sure to find ways to make CD more palatable with the equipment you have.

There is little you can do on the digital sampling side of the equation except keep material between - 40 dBfs to -3 dBfs, or whatever your system tolerates. My peaks are right up to 0 dBfs when using the Fostex CR300. 0 on the CR300 is actually somewhere between -1 dBfs and just under full scale. I recorded the same way on the Pioneer PDR-555 with no problems.

You can’t do anything about the width of the stereo field. That’s always been one of the most notable things to me when going from analog to digital. Digital stereo is narrower. Listening to tape vs CD is almost like engaging the “MegaExpander” feature on a boombox. Not quite that dramatic, but you can hear it.

I’m sure the devil is in there somewhere.

~Tim
:)
 
Beck said:
I appreciate the thought. :)

I was looking over my post trying to think of a way to simplify concepts.

Some tape decks don’t have input or output controls. For the ones that do you have a gain staging issue within the deck itself. For the 22-2 when the input and output knobs are at 7 it’s as if it has no input or output knobs. So what goes in is what comes out – unity. Now you have the best performance the machine can muster – best signal-to-noise, lowest distortion, etc.

The rest is up to whatever digital device you use to capture it… which can be bad news, depending on what you have.

What many people have found is that by emphasizing certain characteristics of tape or analog sources the digital transfer will sound “Better.” This depends on the type of music of course.

You might try accentuating frequencies during taping that tend to come back weak on your CD, or recording hot to tape so you have a higher harmonic distortion on the tape – a little fuzziness. Or mix to tape at 7.5 ips. Maybe use a compressor in between the 22-2 and soundcard. These are a few of the things people have been doing over the years to “warm up” digital on the production side. Just experiment and you’re sure to find ways to make CD more palatable with the equipment you have.

There is little you can do on the digital sampling side of the equation except keep material between - 40 dBfs to -3 dBfs, or whatever your system tolerates. My peaks are right up to 0 dBfs when using the Fostex CR300. 0 on the CR300 is actually somewhere between -1 dBfs and just under full scale. I recorded the same way on the Pioneer PDR-555 with no problems.

You can’t do anything about the width of the stereo field. That’s always been one of the most notable things to me when going from analog to digital. Digital stereo is narrower. Listening to tape vs CD is almost like engaging the “MegaExpander” feature on a boombox. Not quite that dramatic, but you can hear it.

I’m sure the devil is in there somewhere.

~Tim
:)

Beck,
That makes perfect sense! Great advice! Absolutely priceless! :) And the time it took you to help... Priceless! :) Thank you... Lots of folks reading this will be successfully helped!
 
Beck said:
What many people have found is that by emphasizing certain characteristics of tape or analog sources the digital transfer will sound “Better.” This depends on the type of music of course.

Well, it is just about 2007, now. I suppose my new-years-resolution is to get to know "my process" better... That's the spirit, Golden!... Pat myself on the back! :D

What I really need, is a lab outfit... Or an angel suit... Something that will truly put me in the experimental spirit! :) or maybe a new clown outfit...
 
cjacek said:
I don't know about you but this sounds to me like you feel the CD can faithfully capture the source analog signal.
I can understand the CD sounding a little different, but it shouldn't be an unlistenable mess. I make analog to digital transfers all the time and don't have these problems.

There is also a big difference when you are using high end equipment instead of stand alone CD recorders or m-audio soundcards as far as how well the audio is captured. However, calibration and gain staging are probably more important than the specific equipment being used.
 
Farview said:
I can understand the CD sounding a little different, but it shouldn't be an unlistenable mess. I make analog to digital transfers all the time and don't have these problems.

There is also a big difference when you are using high end equipment instead of stand alone CD recorders or m-audio soundcards as far as how well the audio is captured. However, calibration and gain staging are probably more important than the specific equipment being used.

My impression is that Golden is simply hearing the real differences between the formats, which can be startling in an A/B test. It also depends on the listener as to how much a difference is bothersome. That’s an area we will all differ.

It’s true about equipment though. One has to ask themselves if a $99.00 (on sale for $79.00) soundcard is going to do justice to their musical efforts. Maybe it will work, but it’s an element worth reexamining. On the other hand, the difference between converters is bit overrated once you reach a certain level, and I’m not a fan of soundcards in general. It could also be a sum-of-the-parts situation. Mediocre converter + mediocre CD writer and software + less than ideal technique = Bad result.

As for stand-alone recorders, let me be clear that those that I’ve used and recommend are “The High End.” They are part of the reason my own CDs sound richer, fuller, and frankly better than any commercial CD I’ve heard in the last 10 years.

On the other-other hand (you have to have three hands or borrow one to follow this :D ) I can get decent results with a SoundBlaster (decent relative to the current state of the recording industry).

So another question is, can anyone that can afford the best recording equipment achieve excellence? Can anyone that is able to buy the best football (soccer ball) and boots (shoes)… on the most perfect pitch (field) play like Pelé?

Manufacturers present home recording as a turnkey proposition. In truth it’s not that easy… not any easier than mastering any other skill.

~Tim
:)
 
Last edited:
Farview said:
I can understand the CD sounding a little different, but it shouldn't be an unlistenable mess. I make analog to digital transfers all the time and don't have these problems.

It is certainly not an unlistenable mess but when compared to original analog sources like my tapes and vinyl, the Compact Disc simply can't replicate the large body of information. Yes, the pieces are there but they're smaller.

There is also a big difference when you are using high end equipment instead of stand alone CD recorders or m-audio soundcards as far as how well the audio is captured. However, calibration and gain staging are probably more important than the specific equipment being used.

I totally agree.
 
Beck said:
One has to ask themselves if a $99.00 (on sale for $79.00) soundcard is going to do justice to their musical efforts.
No, he/she does not have to do this. He/she may chose to do so, and in 90% of cases if not more he/she does so.
Beck said:
.. the difference between converters is bit overrated once you reach a certain level,
just a bit???!!!!!!!!!!!! heh heh .... not so :D
Beck said:
It could also be a sum-of-the-parts situation.
The result we complain about or the result we get amazed by is always a sum of things, which we conveniently (knowingly or otherwise) ignore or dismiss when drowing a conclusion.
***********
Also, if (as example) m-audio Delta 1010 "system" just as is now was introduced 10-15 years ago and let's say couold actually work with computers of that period, then it would score a top-of-the-line hi-end industry standard title. It would not be 300-400 bux cheap either.
btw, don't be surprised to find out (if it would be possible to find out) that people who make statements ala "there's a huge difference between "high end" equipment and an m-audio card" never had nor heard an m-audio card him/her-self (forget about A/B-ing sh*t !!!! ;) ), some of them don't really know what m-audio cards are beyond catalog listings/price information (why bother?), some just check price - and that's it :p . And what "hi-end equipment"? If you ask: "What hi-end equipment do you refer to?", the the answer will be: "The equipment you can NOT afford."
I've heard that thing since the first day I remeber.
btw, if you get a decent results with a SoundBlaster , then I'd advise you to keep it secret. Don't go public with that - you may be misunderstood, heh heh :D

/Happy New Year!
 
Dr ZEE said:
No, he/she does not have to do this. He/she may chose to do so, and in 90% of cases if not more he/she does so.

just a bit???!!!!!!!!!!!! heh heh .... not so :D

The result we complain about or the result we get amazed by is always a sum of things, which we conveniently (knowingly or otherwise) ignore or dismiss when drowing a conclusion.
***********
Also, if (as example) m-audio Delta 1010 "system" just as is now was introduced 10-15 years ago and let's say couold actually work with computers of that period, then it would score a top-of-the-line hi-end industry standard title. It would not be 300-400 bux cheap either.
btw, don't be surprised to find out (if it would be possible to find out) that people who make statements ala "there's a huge difference between "high end" equipment and an m-audio card" never had nor heard an m-audio card him/her-self (forget about A/B-ing sh*t !!!! ;) ), some of them don't really know what m-audio cards are beyond catalog listings/price information (why bother?), some just check price - and that's it :p . And what "hi-end equipment"? If you ask: "What hi-end equipment do you refer to?", the the answer will be: "The equipment you can NOT afford."
I've heard that thing since the first day I remeber.
btw, if you get a decent results with a SoundBlaster , then I'd advise you to keep it secret. Don't go public with that - you may be misunderstood, heh heh :D

/Happy New Year!

Ha ha ZEE... yeah buddy, it's about that time on the East Coast... Whataya drinkin'? :D :D :D

I propose a toast... Happy New Year! :)
 

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Golden,
Yes I've made lots of 1/4" tape to digital transfers using my M audio 2496 and burned to CDR. The two problems I've had are : Once in a while clipping the digits, and once in a while the other extreme of recording too low and getting soundcard noise into the recording. Just carelessness on my part. We all do it once in while.
The M Audio 2496 is a modestly priced card and is noisier than more expensive ones which can cost the earth. You only get what you pay for. Also being a PCI card it is liable to pick up extra noise from inside the PC box.

Now to your setup. I realized last night that I have a Teac X-3 machine on hand which I think is the domestic equivalent of your 22-2. (If it's not, or there are inportant output differences betyween the 22-2 and X-3 there will be someone on this forum to correct me on that!) Since I also have the 2496 card fitted to my PC, I thought I'd try and replicate your situation here.
This is what I found:

Even with the output volume control at zero, some extra noise from the machine's output stage is added to the 2496 card. Not much but a bit, way down very low. So there is a bit of a mismatch there but not a huge one. It could be fixed by a simple resistor pad for each channel which just reduces the tape machine's output a little.
With a tape signal of 0VU and your output control at about 5 or 6 it was just about right, with about 20db headroom on the card. Maybe a little higher would be OK, depending on the tape type you're using and how hard you are hitting it.
Interestingly in your first post you asked where you should control record levels from, whether at the 22-2 output or "somehow" from the PC. I suggested you use the 22-2, which is correct, but had forgotten that the 2496 and its Delta Control Panel has no provision for record gain adjustments anyway! You can adjust monitor levels on the panel but not record levels.
So Beck is incorrect to advise you to adjust these levels in the PC. They are not there to adjust.
Again, the only slight change that would improve the headroom a little is inserting a resistor pad after the line outs of the 22-2, to the order of maybe 4 or 5 db. I could explain that further if you want to go down that route.

The other technical point is that I dont use the setup of directly running the tape machine into the M Audio's inputs, for the reason related to the slight extra noise of the 22-2 getting onto the card which reduces your overall dynamic range.
I use a stereo preamp ahead of the 2496 with a user fader control for each channel. It allows me to correctly adjust record levels independently of the tape machine's output, on a wide range of tape machines. Some machines dont have an output control of their own or their output levels are too low or too high for the 2496. You could get slightly better results using this setup with your 22-2 and 2496.

This is where it can get a bit tricky especially with consumer gear not necessarily optimised to patch in with other pieces of gear or with trying to mix and match consumer and pro gear.
I've always been obsessed with matching and optimising stages to each other partly because I have used a lot of amateur gear and sometimes the only way to get decent results from it was to tweak them to work with each other optimally.
If you buy pro gear, generally all that is taken care of. You can even make serious level mistakes and the gear may well pull you through. It has larger margins for error built in. So that's why I say pro gear generally spoils, flatters and forgives you. Cheaper gear forces you to work harder for the same results.
That's also why it's misleading to claim to be an audio "expert" because one uses "the best" gear. It may be such a person person hasnt the ability to use anthing less.
I fully agree with say Southside Glen on this. You can find him mostly on the Mixing and Mastering Forum. Lots of good advice there and interesting discussions.

Hope this helps.

Tim
 
Tim Gillett said:
I suggested you use the 22-2, which is correct, but had forgotten that the 2496 and its Delta Control Panel has no provision for record gain adjustments anyway! You can adjust monitor levels on the panel but not record levels.
So Beck is incorrect to advise you to adjust these levels in the PC. They are not there to adjust.

Whoa!

The X-3 and 22-2 are built on the same chassis but they aren’t the same inside.

The 22-2 has a nominal output level of -10 dB (216 mV). It is well matched to the M-Audio inputs. A pad in between the 22-2 and the M-Audio analog inputs is the last thing you want. If you were running something like an Otari MX5050 at +4 dB then a pad would be appropriate.

An active mixer would be handy, but not necessarily needed as the 22-2 has its own active variable output stage.

Beck said:
Post #11
The output controls on the 22-2 are fine for adjusting levels to your soundcard as long as you’re monitoring levels with your software.

Beck said:
Post #27 Addressing the subject of Gain Structure and calibration:
The output knobs on the 22-2 will have no affect on the VU meters during playback. So, just ignore them at this stage and use the graphs in your software for reference. All you need from the VU meters is to see that what you record comes back at approximately the same reading on playback (as outlined above).

You do however use the output knobs on the 22-2 to adjust the level going into your soundcard. Set the output knobs to 7 and adjust levels on the PC side to read –18 dBfs (Or use –16 or –20 dBfs if it works for you). Anyway that’s just a starting point…

Post #45
Some tape decks don’t have input or output controls. For the ones that do you have a gain staging issue within the deck itself. For the 22-2 when the input and output knobs are at 7 it’s as if it has no input or output knobs. So what goes in is what comes out – unity. Now you have the best performance the machine can muster – best signal-to-noise, lowest distortion, etc.

No one that has a grasp of audio gain structure would fail to understand the different issues I was addressing in response to different questions. Not that people that don’t understand gain staging are necessarily bad people, but you don’t want them interpreting for you what they don’t understand.

Threads break down when other members incorrectly quote or otherwise misrepresent what someone has said.

The following should be a sticky (If we could post stickies)

Never let one member interpret for you what another member has said... Some people genuinely have poor comprehension, while others are professional trolls, deliberately splitting hairs, twisting words and meaning for sport. They are indeed more interested in wrestling than shooting the breeze with on-line friends sharing a common interest.

If someone really doesn’t understand what I or another member is talking about in a particular instance, that’s ok… please buy, borrow or steal a copy of John Woram’s Sound Recording Handbook (1989) or even Craig Anderton’s Home Recording for Musicians (any edition), or Bruce Bartlett’s Practical recording Techniques, or Brent Hurtig’s Multi-track Recording for Musicians… anything other than letting some chucklehead on this forum attempt to lead you through the darkness; himself having no candle. ;)
 
Beck said:
Whoa!

The X-3 and 22-2 are built on the same chassis but they aren’t the same inside.

The 22-2 has a nominal output level of -10 dB (216 mV). It is well matched to the M-Audio inputs. A pad in between the 22-2 and the M-Audio analog inputs is the last thing you want. If you were running something like an Otari MX5050 at +4 dB then a pad would be appropriate.

An active mixer would be handy, but not necessarily needed as the 22-2 has its own active variable output stage.





No one that has a grasp of audio gain structure would fail to understand the different issues I was addressing in response to different questions. Not that people that don’t understand gain staging are necessarily bad people, but you don’t want them interpreting for you what they don’t understand.

Threads break down when other members incorrectly quote or otherwise misrepresent what someone has said.

The following should be a sticky (If we could post stickies)

Never let one member interpret for you what another member has said... Some people genuinely have poor comprehension, while others are professional trolls, deliberately splitting hairs, twisting words and meaning for sport. They are indeed more interested in wrestling than shooting the breeze with on-line friends sharing a common interest.

If someone really doesn’t understand what I or another member is talking about in a particular instance, that’s ok… please buy, borrow or steal a copy of John Woram’s Sound Recording Handbook (1989) or even Craig Anderton’s Home Recording for Musicians (any edition), or Bruce Bartlett’s Practical recording Techniques, or Brent Hurtig’s Multi-track Recording for Musicians… anything other than letting some chucklehead on this forum attempt to lead you through the darkness; himself having no candle. ;)

Beck, you opened by quoting my observation that there is no record gain adjustment in the 2496 (on which you were wrong) but then ignored it. Were you wrong on this point or not? Readers might wonder why you quoted it and then made no comment. I am certainly wondering.

You say a pad in between the two is the last thing you want. Well it can be. It all depends on the pad and the problem it is addressing.

I mentioned the pad in the context of a small amount of output amp noise that was audible in my setup and which added slightly to the 2496's own noise which is not brilliant. Hence any small improvement can be desirable if one wants the best out of the modest setup in terms of dynamic range. I detected the added noise in a real world setup which I described in my post.

With a +4db output machine, a pad would not only be appropriate but probably highly advisable! But it does not follow therefore that a small pad in this situation , not for the purposes of matching +4 db, but for the purposes of gaining a couple more db of headroom is not appropriate. One is for matching two significantly dissimilar levels. The other is very much a tailor made fine tuning of a basically or essentially matched setup. You dont seem to grasp that distinction and yet I stated it clearly enough in my post. (talk of interpreting another person's post!!!)
If you dont understand, I will explain further, for you and for anybody else interested. Nominal levels dont necessarily tell you exactly at what level the equipment actually clips, and neither the precise level of noise it has. Different gear can have different levels at both ends of the dynamic spectrum. Two items which though they are nominally matched can sometimes be more finely matched with something as simple as a few 2 cent resistors. Of course it can only be done when there is some signal to spare from the source unit, as is the case here. It's wasteful of power of course but that's why it can also only be done when there's power to spare. It breaks the old engineering rule of power transfer but that is only appropriate when power and signal levels are at a premium and preserving that's the goal. It isnt here. It also has to be done carefully with the right resistor values or it can make things worse, adding more noise. It cant of course be done the other way around except with active components or maybe a stepup transformer.

Part of my reason for setting up was to check for my own interest if there was possibly too much noise emanating from the machine's output stage, trying to help Golden with his issue.
Some machines use a passive potentiometer as the final output stage. Others have a pot before a driver amp. That was the case here. It's generally a better design but it can also mean if the next stage is quite sensitive and its sensitivity cant be reduced, ( as it cant with the 2496, contrary to what you told Golden) you can have driver amp residual noise coming through, adding to the soundcard's own residual noise, even when the tape machine's output pot is on zero. Exactly the case here. That's how I detected it.

After having made and inserted the small pad I carefully checked the setup on my own system and confirmed that with the pad inserted, the 2496 still clipped before the machine's output stage did. Success.
It was only a modest improvement and I stated it in those terms. But an improvement it was and is.

In any case, this wasnt me criticising you on this point. I just offered to Golden a potential small improvement. You werent even mentioned. You are criticising me, and you are wrong. Or so it appears.

The correction I did make of your post was to add that the 2496 has no record gain facility. That fact can be gleaned by reading the 2496 manual. It says it has two output levels but fixed ("consumer") input sensitivity (ref. page 24. M Audio Audiophile 2496 manual)

Golden's very first post asked if it was even possible to make such a gain adjustment in his PC. Remember he said "somewhere" meaning he couldnt find it. He couldnt find it because it isnt there. You say it is. You are wrong.
You gave him wrong advice. I gave him the correct advice.

Now, if there HAD been a record fader on the 2496, my mod, or any other improvement would have been superfluous! There is a connection between the two. You not only did not understand my modification suggestion, you didnt even understand the reason for it, because you got your info on the 2496 card wrong. Do you even have such a card. I've been using this one for 4 years.

It's true you didnt actually say in so many words the 2496 has record gain adjustment but you advised Golden to make such an adjustment on his PC, which Golden could only reasonably assume to mean there is such an adjustment in the 2496. But there isnt such an adjustment. Further, that was in his first question in his first post on the thread!

If I am wrong on this point about the 2496's not having inbuilt record gain facility show me where I am wrong.
If I am wrong on the principle of fine matching nominally matched items in a chain, in the way described, explain that to me too.


I'm waiting to be corrected Beck. Over to you.

BTW, re the three texts you cited. Why not actually use them! Quote from them chapter and verse, showing my error. Perhaps start by looking up attenuators.
If you like I can quote it for you.

But you go first. I insist.

Tim
 
Tim Gillett said:
Golden,
Yes I've made lots of 1/4" tape to digital transfers using my M audio 2496 and burned to CDR. The two problems I've had are : Once in a while clipping the digits, and once in a while the other extreme of recording too low and getting soundcard noise into the recording. Just carelessness on my part. We all do it once in while.
The M Audio 2496 is a modestly priced card and is noisier than more expensive ones which can cost the earth. You only get what you pay for. Also being a PCI card it is liable to pick up extra noise from inside the PC box.

Now to your setup. I realized last night that I have a Teac X-3 machine on hand which I think is the domestic equivalent of your 22-2. (If it's not, or there are inportant output differences betyween the 22-2 and X-3 there will be someone on this forum to correct me on that!) Since I also have the 2496 card fitted to my PC, I thought I'd try and replicate your situation here.
This is what I found:

Even with the output volume control at zero, some extra noise from the machine's output stage is added to the 2496 card. Not much but a bit, way down very low. So there is a bit of a mismatch there but not a huge one. It could be fixed by a simple resistor pad for each channel which just reduces the tape machine's output a little.
With a tape signal of 0VU and your output control at about 5 or 6 it was just about right, with about 20db headroom on the card. Maybe a little higher would be OK, depending on the tape type you're using and how hard you are hitting it.
Interestingly in your first post you asked where you should control record levels from, whether at the 22-2 output or "somehow" from the PC. I suggested you use the 22-2, which is correct, but had forgotten that the 2496 and its Delta Control Panel has no provision for record gain adjustments anyway! You can adjust monitor levels on the panel but not record levels.
So Beck is incorrect to advise you to adjust these levels in the PC. They are not there to adjust.
Again, the only slight change that would improve the headroom a little is inserting a resistor pad after the line outs of the 22-2, to the order of maybe 4 or 5 db. I could explain that further if you want to go down that route.

The other technical point is that I dont use the setup of directly running the tape machine into the M Audio's inputs, for the reason related to the slight extra noise of the 22-2 getting onto the card which reduces your overall dynamic range.
I use a stereo preamp ahead of the 2496 with a user fader control for each channel. It allows me to correctly adjust record levels independently of the tape machine's output, on a wide range of tape machines. Some machines dont have an output control of their own or their output levels are too low or too high for the 2496. You could get slightly better results using this setup with your 22-2 and 2496.

This is where it can get a bit tricky especially with consumer gear not necessarily optimised to patch in with other pieces of gear or with trying to mix and match consumer and pro gear.
I've always been obsessed with matching and optimising stages to each other partly because I have used a lot of amateur gear and sometimes the only way to get decent results from it was to tweak them to work with each other optimally.
If you buy pro gear, generally all that is taken care of. You can even make serious level mistakes and the gear may well pull you through. It has larger margins for error built in. So that's why I say pro gear generally spoils, flatters and forgives you. Cheaper gear forces you to work harder for the same results.
That's also why it's misleading to claim to be an audio "expert" because one uses "the best" gear. It may be such a person person hasnt the ability to use anthing less.
I fully agree with say Southside Glen on this. You can find him mostly on the Mixing and Mastering Forum. Lots of good advice there and interesting discussions.

Hope this helps.

Tim

Thanks, Tim!

Interesting... I've noticed that the 24/96 does indeed pick-up some noise from the 22-2, even when the 22 isn't playing the tape... I can tell because the meters on the 24/96 move up and down a bit when the 22-2 is on and sitting idle... Anyway, I’ve printed out a copy of your last post, and I’m going to read it over later… I’ve got to run out the door right now… About using the stereo receiver to adjust levels after the 22-2 and before the 24/96… That’s a regular stereo receiver, right? Something like a Technics? I’m going to try that…
 
Tim Gillett said:
I'm waiting to be corrected Beck. Over to you.
Tim

You're the only one waiting. The train done gone by with whistle blowin'. Everyone saw it and it even run right over you, so I figured you saw it too... :D

What other languages are you fluent in? Can't think of any plainer way to communicate to you in English. My wife speaks French and her Spanish is pretty good. I could have her translate if you think that would help.

None of us do Braille though and I’m not sure how that would work on-line.

For the most part even if it appears I’m talking to you because I’ve included one of your quotes, I’m in fact talking around you to anyone else that might be following. It is probably impossible for me or anyone else to decompress a thread once you’ve posted. But it’s just my nature to try.

You don’t recognize when you’ve been corrected. You are slow, and unable or unwilling to consider that you’ve misunderstood. This is primarily because you have an axe to grind, and you have going back to your first posts. You are looking for conflict, so naturally you find it.

Take your own advise and go to another forum... bother some other people for a while.
 
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Golden said:
Thanks, Tim!

Interesting... I've noticed that the 24/96 does indeed pick-up some noise from the 22-2, even when the 22 isn't playing the tape... I can tell because the meters on the 24/96 move up and down a bit when the 22-2 is on and sitting idle... Anyway, I’ve printed out a copy of your last post, and I’m going to read it over later… I’ve got to run out the door right now… About using the stereo receiver to adjust levels after the 22-2 and before the 24/96… That’s a regular stereo receiver, right? Something like a Technics? I’m going to try that…

No problem Golden. I'm still wondering if something more basic hasnt been missed. It's such a simple setup that there's not much to go wrong.

Are you able to monitor the playback of the wav file from the PC? I mean with a good speaker system or good headphones. If so what does that sound like compared to the original and to the CDR?
Can you monitor the 22-2's output with good headphones through its own headphone socket and then listen to it again after you have connected the line output to the 2496? Is there any audible difference there?

About the only other thing I can think of is the RCA to RCA leads. Are they good leads? Are they reasonably short, like less than 1.5 meter?

hope this helps, Tim.
 
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