Studio build in unfinished "bonus room" above garage

robn

A Muse Zen
I started building a studio about 3 years ago and, for various reasons, put it on hold......I'm ready to start it again but need to do things a little different and need a "refresher".

My location - Abilene, TX, USA
Studio location - unfinished "bonus room" above garage, 2 story house.
2 rooms and bathroom upstairs, daughters have grown up and both moved away so it's rarely used.
Budget - $2000
Purpose - mostly single use (me) for songwriting/composing. Most input is DI into Sonar software....guitar may be mic'd sometimes but will probably be input with Digitech GNX4 inline.....acoustic guitar is Yamaha Silent Series and will be DI.......no drums (will use Sonar)......keys are MIDI controller.........only consistent live recording will be vocals.

Question 1: First of all, is this studio possible? I have no other options such as building outside due to financial constraints.....my main concerns are load bearing, decoupling, permit. I've read some of Rod Gervais book and on Page 52 he says "Reality is that you can't get isolation for a recording studio with a simple elevated wood deck. Period". Previous to that statement he was talking about concrete flooring so I didn't know if he was making his statement in connection with a deck over concrete or a deck period.......seems like in my case the garage would be an OK "sound lock"....

Question 2 concerns the permit......I have actually started building this project without one and I need to go take care of this.......I have a bad taste in my mouth from my experience with this aspect though because I took my plans to the Permit office and they were of little help.....they gave no advice and didn't come out to take a look.....maybe my expectations were wrong, I don't know......since I've already got some done (interior walls framed, HVAC ran, electrical mostly ran) they might get pissed anyway. But since it's the law, I need to get this done.

Question 3 is load-bearing issues........if I hire a structural engineer my budget takes a huge hickey right there........I talked to our one and only structural engineer about 3 years ago and to put it mildly, he was a real ass. I explained the structure and even showed him a picture of the house as it was being built. At the least I'll have to tear the flooring up since he apparently doesn't believe in construction pictures......again, maybe my expectation is wrong......
The weight-bearing issue is of course a concern.....but looking at pics of when my house was being built, a 2"X16" beam sits upright running north-south right thru the middle of the room. One end sits on a 4-piece 2"X4" stud piece, the other on the top of an exterior wall. Since the room is 14', there is a 7' maximum joist span running east-west off the center beam. These joists are 18" spaced 2"X12" and I have a 1" piece of plywood on top of it that constitutes the present "floor" of the studio.

Here are a few pics and designs:
This is a rough drawing looking down:
Studio7-18-09.jpg


This is a side view facing north (facing towards where the existing window is located (which is now sealed up)):
StudioSideView.jpg


This is the west side knee-wall before insulation:
studio2.jpg


Ceiling before insulation:
studio1.jpg


Here are a couple of pics during the construction of our house:
joists.jpg

joists2.jpg


As I mentioned before, the middle beam is a 2"X16".....one end sits on where the green arrow is.....the other side sits on the north exterior wall. The 2 sets of joists coming off the 2"X16" middle beam are 2"X12" spaced about 18" apart....the span on either side of the middle beam is about 7'.......hope this picture gives you some idea of the construction....I have put up a 1" sheet of plywood on top of the beam/joints and that's what you'll see in the next pics:

I took these pics tonight.....please excuse the mess in the studio room but you'll get the idea......the north wall has an interior wall that I built about 8" inside the exterior wall:
Studio7-19%20004.jpg


A full view of the north wall (where the window is now sealed up):
Studio7-19%20001.jpg


The south wall which is adjacent to one of the bedrooms.....this wall has an interior wall that I built about 10" inside the interior wall:
Studio7-19%20008.jpg


This is the base of the west wall.....this one does not have an interior anything......basically asphalt shingle, plywood, and beams, this wall is at an approximate 50 degree angle:
Studio7-19%20005.jpg


A shot of the ceiling looking north, so you are looking at the west and east side "wall"....the east wall has no interior either until it gets down to the knee-wall:
ceiling.jpg


East wall showing knee-wall:
Studio7-19east.jpg


Looking south to the area where I will be adding another door leading into the studio:
Studio7-19%20006.jpg


Looking at the northwest corner:
Studio7-19%20009.jpg


Looking into the studio area from the 2nd floor hallway, showing the door going into the studio area (where there will be a second door on the left):
Studio7-19%20010.jpg


Hope these pictures help some.......maybe this is an impossible project, maybe not......there are several houses in our neighborhood (our next door neighbor is one) that has a 2nd floor bonus room....they had their builder (the same builder we had) finish out their bonus room.....in retrospect maybe I should have done the same....but I still would have had to modify it for the extra sound conditions.

I personally don't see where load-issues will be a problem as long as I don't get carried away and put 5" more flooring in and use 3 sheets of drywall, or something like that type of thing. Seems like my flooring is going to be my weak link and I don't know what can be done about it.....if I add pucks and another piece of plywood I've created the dreaded third leaf........I've thought about maybe adding another 1/2" piece of plywood on top of it so it would just be adding a little more mass to the existing leaf.......and of course the underlayment will go on top of the plywood and then the final laminate flooring. If anyone has a better solution that won't add a ton of weight to the project, please feel free to chime in.......

I also thought about Hat Channel and RSIC clips on the west and east walls but since the floor is the weak link, it may be throwing money away.......this is assuming I can't improve upon the flooring situation.

Right now I'm leaning towards adding a 1/2" plywood to the floor and then using 5/8" drywall on all the walls. I will be framing in an extra door also. Another consideration is using 1/2" drywall into the studs, then a layer of Green Glue, then another 1/2" drywall......this would of course be adding more weight though........

So many questions.......the potential for wasting money just seems huge for building this........


Thanks alot!!!!!
 
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Went and got my building permit today....better late than never.......one of the inspectors is coming out tomorrow to talk over the whole project and just get a general idea.......I also have a builder coming over tomorrow at 3:00PM to check out the load-bearing issues......


Here are a few pics now that I cleaned up some:
cleanstudio1.jpg


cleanstudio2.jpg


cleanstudio3.jpg
 
Hello robn and welcome back. Didn't I help you with this once before? Seems like I told you about this for the floor. Its a roll out fiberglass product with embedded pucks of Sylomer.
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Unfortunately its quite expensive. However, since you aren't using real drums(structural transmission of impact noise) , nor recording live bass, I'd venture to say just add a layer of 5/8 drywall and a layer of 3/4 OSB/Ply to the floor..IF your "structural analyst" oks it.;) Other than building some speaker stands out of some massive material and decoupling the speakers from them(rigid fiberglass or commercial pads), I think I offered everything I thought would be of TL interest before. Nothing new to add. I wouldn't try a full rock band though:D
fitZ
 
Hey Rick, I remember ya man.......Yeah, I had this project started about 3 years but due to life situations <insert LACK OF MONEY </insert> never finished it. Got some done on it since then though, and in the meantime it's been a great area for all of my wife's leftover project materials junk storage area. I have now reclaimed my rightful area:rolleyes:

Seems like I remember that flooring, it came from a company called KineticsNoise or something like that?

Since my real internally-generated sound will be mainly vocals and mixdown, I don't know how "crazy" I need to get with isolation attempts.......but I'll definitely ask my "expert" when he comes over tomorrow about how crazy I can get with weight.....

There are a few questions I'll still have though, like does the drywall rest on the flooring or is it better to put some sort of thin foam in between and caulk the crap out of it? Same question with the wall-to-wall and wall-to-ceiling joints?

How's your studio bro?
 
Hey Robn, I just laid out your floor from the dim's you provided. Then I tried a 12/12 pitch roof...and it didn't add up to the height dims. What gives. Is this a wierd roof pitch? Either that or some dimensions are wrong.:confused:
 
I assume you're talking about that west wall?? The one from floor to ceiling?

I'll go remeasure for ya.....


BTW, the city Permit guy just left...........got the ball rolling......I'll have to have a city-licensed electrician and HVAC guy come up and inspect the work already done.....then I can get started on the drywall or whatever I'm going to start next. He also said I was fine about adding more weight to the floor and also doubling up the drywall. I have another guy coming out in about 1 /12 hrs to give me a more detailed report.........getting exciting though.....
 
Hey Robn, glad to hear the project is moving forward. Cool the inspector is being reasonable with work already started. Also, if he said you can double up the drywall, then it must be okay. He's the expert and if something goes wrong, it's on his shoulders (legally, that is).

But like I said in the other thread, I seriously doubt you have to double up the drywall. With you doing most everything in the box, you won't be making a whole lot of noise. Spend your money on more useful things like decent monitors, room treatment a good mic and a good preamp, if you don't already have them.

Keep us posted. :)
 
Hey Chili, good to hear from you.....


Yeah, I just had a second opinion from a local builder......they work with alot of Hat Channel, RC, stuff like that......company is called Harris Acoustics.....in addition to HC and RC they also sell acoustical caulk.....I already have a case of it, but I may get wild with it and run out.......

He said there was absolutely no problem with load-bearing, so I feel better.....still don't know what I'm going to do with the floor, but I think I'm gonna go with RC on all walls/ceiling with either 1/2" or 5/8" drywall into the RC. Harris also has some leftover sound panels that they used at our Civic Center concert hall that he said they'd sell me cheap.....he said they had around 12 panels and would sell it for $150-$200.....might be a good investment.

Just about every studio I see has hardwood or laminate flooring with sound panels on the walls......I'm still a little unclear as to reflective versus non-reflective surfaces.....can someone enlighten me in this area?
 
Harris also has some leftover sound panels that they used at our Civic Center concert hall that he said they'd sell me cheap.....he said they had around 12 panels and would sell it for $150-$200.....might be a good investment.

That sounds like a good deal if you don't have to DIY it yourself.

Just about every studio I see has hardwood or laminate flooring with sound panels on the walls......I'm still a little unclear as to reflective versus non-reflective surfaces.....can someone enlighten me in this area?

Sorry, can't help you there. The two studios I built have been small, so never any reflections allowed.
 
Hey robn, what is the rafter spacing on centers? You said about 18". Looks like 24" in some pics, but the floor joists look 16" in some pics and are spaced identical to the rafters. I like to be accurate.:)
 
Just about every studio I see has hardwood or laminate flooring with sound panels on the walls......I'm still a little unclear as to reflective versus non-reflective surfaces.....can someone enlighten me in this area?

First things first.;) Lets get this structural stuff and TL stuff down. Then we'll deal with treatment. BTW, don't jump the gun yet. Theres a few things we have to pin down first before you start closing this baby up.:D Like...um...HVAC!:eek: what have ya got in mind ? I think we touched on it before but that was YEARS ago.:D
 
Rick, I hear ya about not jumping the gun.....and besides, getting my permit and the inspections/waiting on that kind of thing will BY NECESSITY make me slow down some. Probably a good thing.....

Did my diagrams from today help you any?

The HVAC ties into the upstairs system. It's branched off and has a few extra "curves" in it (at the tie-in area, not shown in photos), but there is no special baffle built into it.......it runs thru the rafters and the output grill ends up a foot or so from the far wall (the north wall).....
HVACOut7-21.jpg



There is another run that comes out from the same direction as the one I just mentioned but is open on the end right now......when I turn the upstairs unit on, no air comes out.......I'm thinking it is an intake that the HVAC guy was going to build into the south wall.......I'll take a better pic of it if you need it.
HVACIn7-21.jpg
 
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Any opinions on RC vrs Green Glue? I've read a number of articles on this and if there's a conclusion, I missed it. Especially in my situation, what would a comparison be between these:

1) RC + 1/2" drywall
2) 1/2" drywall + Green Glue + 1/2" drywall
3) RC + 1/2" drywall + Green Glue + 1/2" drywall
 
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