walls/resilient channeling

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Executivos

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I'm following johns wall design, which is an outer frame with resilient channeling, and a layer of 5/8 sheet rock, then a 4" gap w/ some more insulation and then a second wall ontop of a floated floor.

I'm hanging the resilient channeling and outer layer of sheetrock tommorow. Should I caulk the sheetrock where it meets the floor and ceiling or would this decrease the flexing on the channeling.

It seems like there's so many ways I can mess things up that i'm going crazy with all of these minor details.
 
Exec,

I would be caulking with a "flexible sealant" on both inner and outer walls. Better to be safe than sorry.

:cool:
 
ok I planned on using the flexible one. I just read something about sealing off walls and mildew. is this a problem?
 
Could someone explain "resilient channel"? I don't quite understand how you accomplish that.

Thanks,

Bushice
 
I just spent 4 days installing it. 5 days ago, I had almost no clue what it was.

Basically, when you normally hang sheetrock you attach it directly to the stud frame. If sound waves hit the sheetrock they will transfer vibrations right through to the studs (which in turn transfer vibrations to whatever is on the other side of the studs). Resilient Channel, (if you're trying to buy it, call any drywall supply store and ask for RC1, not resilient channel. Also the lowe's and home depot's don't carry it) is thin flexible sheet metal that is attached across the studs (90 degrees) to which the sheet rock is then attached to. The flexible metal helps to absorb the vibrations independantly from the studs. From what I was told, in an 8 foot wall, you hang it at about 2 feet, 4 feet and 6 feet from the floor.

It's relatively cheap...Ok it's REALLY cheap...I payed 1.19 a piece, for 12 foot lengths....thats about $25 to completely cover a 14x18 room including ceilings. Just be sure that when you attach the drywall to the channel you miss the studs on those screws. here's a really bad drawing of it attached


If you look at the picture, the little part at the top has pre drilled holes which is the part where you put it into the studs. then when the the part that sticks out towards the bottom to the right has no holes, but when you drive screws through the drywall into it, it picks up tightly into that.

If i'm wrong on any of this, SORRY!
 

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Thanks Exec, I had no clear idea what it was before this.

So I guess I'm only four days behind you now :)

Bushice
 
lol. I left my digital camera at the soon to be studio, but I have some pictures of it as it looks installed. I forgot to take ones of my bass player installing insulation with a ww2 gas mask on. :) Anyway, I'll post some hopefully tommorow.

I'm still worried about how to float my floors on rubber pads. maybe in 4-5 days i'll be able to answer questions on that too.
 
The Home Depot near me does have it. It is called furring channel and is "U" shaped with tabs on the top of the U. It is about the same price...~ $1.20 / 12/ft. I did'nt know it can go on 24" centers though - that make sense - thanks exec.

Kevin.
 
How much thickness does resilient channel(or furring channel) add to the wall?
 
The stuff I saw was 1 inch. Add to that the however much sheetrock you use...

Kevin.
 
i've seen furring channel (and heard of it before) but what I was told by one of the drywall stores (which sold both) is that it didn't have the same acoustical properties because of the way it flexed or something. I'm not sure I believe him though, some websites refer to furring channel.

As far as the thickness it adds to the wall, it's almost none...I'd say under 1/2 of an inch.
 
Executivos said:
I'm still worried about how to float my floors on rubber pads. maybe in 4-5 days i'll be able to answer questions on that too.
Click to expand...

That's the one part I think I HAVE figured out. It's the walls and ceilings I'm stuck on what I should do.

What are your problems with the floor? Can't hurt to talk about it here, maybe we'll figure it out together with everyone elses help!

Bushice
 
It's called sesilient or furring channel. Executivos summed up how it works. It's normally used in ceilings and in OZ we use it under roof trusses mainly to enable a straight, flat roof line.

cheers
john
 
my problems with the floor are mostly based on the "little things" that you can easily over look and end up REALLY messing up your sound isolation.

I kinda got it figured out (cheaper too) I'm buying 3/4" neoprene and cutting 3"x3" pieces and laying them every three feet under each floor joist. What I'm worried about is how to attach them/keep them from moving. John said he used a nail gun into the concrete but my floor starts at the bottom with a 2x4 frame with 3/4" ply, then roofing felt, then the pads and then another 2x3 frame and more 3/4" ply. I'm just afraid that if i screw the upper floated floor through the rubber and into the lower floor then it will send vibrations through the rubber?

I hope this makes sense, because I have to do it on sat.

Friday I have to hang drywall on the ceiling (not fun)
 
sounds great...:D

I'm not sure there will be much transmission through the nails holding the frame down. Remember you are about to hit it many times with hammers and nail guns and you will have spent valuable time making sure that it is all square etc.

That's why we did it anyway ;)

cheers
john
 
Executivos or John - in your experience using resilient channel, and I'm refering to the thicker 1" furring channel here, is it strong enough to hold up sheetrock at a 45deg angle between the ceiling and wall as shown in this drawing?

Thanks
Kevin.
 

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Rez Chan for Plywood?

I've done the Rez Chan with sheetrock, so I'm a bit familiar with it. My questions is, has anyone used it with plywood? I want to do my ceiling with plywood, since it is easier to work with given my situation. I'm assuming this could be done without any particular problems, but I may be overlooking something...
 
Executivos

I have just redone my floating floor. I used a hot glue gun (Bostick) to stick 13mm Neoprene pucks directly onto 2X4" battens - worked really well. I used No Nails type glue to attach 30 mm compressed Rockwool to the underside of my 18mm Chipboard floor to damp any resonances. Next is to glue and screw down 18mm ply onto the battens - that will happen next day or so.

I would have gone for 2 layers 18mm ply but the job had to be done for minimal outlay so I modified what I had.

I have a test whereby I have a mate do his best Bonzo impression on my kit and I go around using finger tips to feel for unwanted vibrations - in garage floor, house walls etc. With the neoprene pucks underneath I can detect much less snare transfer into the slab/house foundation/house walls than when the floor was on 30mm Rockwool. With kick the there is naturally more impact transmission to deal with but the neoprene is definately working - with the mass increase afforded by the second layer of boards it will be fine for my purposes.

I have used a 300mm spacing between the pucks - it feels very slightly springy to walk on - puck size 50mmX100mm. Anyway I hope this helps a bit.

cheers
 
transputer what thickness is the neoprene you're using? I talked to the guy at soundproofing.org and he told me 2-3 feet was more than enough with 2"x3" pads of 7/8" neoprene (60 duronmeter)

Hot glue gun sounds good...I think I will try that.


longsoughtfor...In those corners, are there studs going along the gaps in the corners as well? It's VERY flimsy....


As far as plywood on resilient channel, I'm going out on a limb and saying it's probably not a good idea. Everything I've read says that plywood is not as good for isolation as sheetrock, and seeing as how sheets of plywood are like $15 and drywall is $5, I'd use the drywall.

John??
 
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