trying to soundproof a room

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frequency_

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Hello, i m going to sound-proof a room to use it as a band rehersal room. room dimentions are: 11x20x10 feet. there is a big window (11.8x5 feet) and a door (3.8x6.5) and the closest neighbour lives at 30 feet from the room....my main problem is how to sound proof the window, i m thinking to build some panels filed with fiberglass to fit the window so that i ll be able to remove them when band is not playing. but would that be enough or would sound escape from around the panels? Also my door is quite thin too...and doesnt help at all for the isolation... i m thinking to add a second thiner door, maybe made out of plastic to prevent some sound energy escaping from there. Do you think that will work? any recomendations will help thanks, Chris
 
Chris,

did you even bother taking the time to search the threads for the answer to this question?

I askthis because it's been asked - and answered - hundreds of times.

Rod
 
Rod Gervais said:
Chris,

did you even bother taking the time to search the threads for the answer to this question?

I askthis because it's been asked - and answered - hundreds of times.

Rod
Click to expand...

yes i did, thanks for your comments
 
Chris,

Then I guess you didn't understand anything that you read.

It takes mass to isolate sound from escaping - LOTs OF MASS........

And it takes 2 leaf systems - and decoupling the interior form the exterior to stop flanking.

Aheavy inser might stop sound tranmission through your window - but it isn't going to do anything to help a standard wall - and the loss there with music will be tremoendous.

If you have a thin door that doesn't help at all - putting some 2nd thinner door (even plastic ) isn't going to do a thing to help you.

So the answer to your question is "no" you are not headed in the right direction.

Sincerely,

Rod
 
ok guys i understand the theory of sound proofing, BUT i cant completely isolate the room cause i simply cant afford it, and definately cant build a room within a room... and i cant shut my window with heavy materials cause i need the window too...i m just looking for a way to decrease the sound energy escaping from the window and door. (the walls are made of concrete). do you think building panels to fit the window (filled with absorbant matelrial) and adding a second door is a good or bad idea?
 
first off - your concrete walls are not good isolators - so with someone living 30 feet away from you - I would say don't waste your money - practice duringthe day or when they aren't home - or practice at one of your band mates where things will work out better.

Believe me - throwing any money at all to do what you're suggesting is going to make so little difference that it won't be worth the investent - and you'll still be in the same boat.

Rod
 
Rod Gervais said:
first off - your concrete walls are not good isolators - so with someone living 30 feet away from you - I would say don't waste your money - practice duringthe day or when they aren't home - or practice at one of your band mates where things will work out better.

Believe me - throwing any money at all to do what you're suggesting is going to make so little difference that it won't be worth the investent - and you'll still be in the same boat.

Rod
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sory i explain things one at a time, i should have put everything up from the first question, the walls are made like that (from inside out): 1 layer of plaster/bricks with concrete/another layer of plaster/and the outside of the wall is covered with 2.5cm stones. its a thick construction so i dont think that soundproofing the walls more would be necessary. with that fact, do you think its worth soundproofing the window and door?
 
here s my house, hope it helps
-Yellow is the room for isolation
 

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hmmmm... more info...

have you measured how much sound is getting out? you might want to do that first...

as far as the windows and door - as Rod pointed out - you need mass - so building a window "plug" and a heavy door may very well help if the windows and doors are the weak points. however, building a solid door and window plug will take some work because they will be very heavy - 200-300lbs at least to have nearly as much isolation as the wall.

if you get Rod's book on home studio construction, he has excellent plans for building the doors and window plugs, as well as a long list of other things to consider that may improve your situation.
 
gulfo, no i havent measured how much sound is geting out, what equipment would i need to do that?
 
radio shack (or some other hobbyist electronics store) will have inexpensive (say around 50 euros) sound level meters which you can use. set up a live drum and bass or a decent recording with a strong amplifier (since bass notes and drum impact are the things most likely to give you problems) and measure the levels inside and outside - keep a chart so you can compare levels and locations.

for measuring the acoustics of the room as-is, use something like Room EQ wizard (free) and an omnidirection mic into your computer (such as a Behringer ECM8000 - about 50 euros + you need a preamp with phantom power - m-audio Audio Buddy (~100 euros) is a decent one if you don't have one...)

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103667

http://www.hometheatershack.com/roomeq/
http://www.behringer.com/ECM8000/index.cfm
http://www.m-audio.com/products/en_us/AudioBuddy-main.html
 
frequency_ said:
my main problem is how to sound proof the window, i m thinking to build some panels filed with fiberglass to fit the window so that i ll be able to remove them when band is not playing. but would that be enough or would sound escape from around the panels?
Click to expand...

Depending on your budget, you could look at a more permanent option for the window, if secondary glazing is available where you are.
Secondary glazing is where a second window in its own frame (usually steel) is fitted inside the existing window casing and sealed up with no more gaps around the edge. The glass in this second window is thicker than a standard window and the air gap between panes works in a similar fashion to traditional double glazing.

Also my door is quite thin too...and doesnt help at all for the isolation... i m thinking to add a second thiner door, maybe made out of plastic to prevent some sound energy escaping from there. Do you think that will work? any recomendations will help thanks, Chris
Click to expand...

If this is an external door, it would be better to replace it with a solid core door. Will also help from a security point of view as well. Normal hollow doors can be kicked in quite easily. By all means add a second door inside to help with isolation, but make certain the door to the outside is solid core and lockable.

Dags
 
A second door can and will help, but it needs to be a thicker, solid core door that seals very well. The basic idea that mass is needed to decrease sound transmission applies to doors too. Sealing the air gap around the door is important too. The gap around the door is just like having a hole in your wall and will allow a lot of sound to escape. Thin hollow doors do little to stop low frequency sounds, they can even act as a resonator and make the problem worse.
Your window is quite large and will be very hard to stop sound from escaping through it. Glass allows sound to pass through almost as easily as it does light. Lower volumes or a different location might be a more practical option than trying to soundproof your room unless you are willing to give up the window.
 
Rod, i have a question for you (or anyone that knows the answer)...

What has more mass (or provide more isolation)?

Standard brick wall (rendered on just one side) or a 30mm gypsum wall (with steel studs)?

Thanks!
 
Thanks a LOT panda!!! That´s exactly what i was looking for!

Rep to you, my friend! :D
 
Do yourself a favor. Gather everyone and play in that room at rehersal levels and see how loud it is at the neighbors. If you are under the levels that apply to your city,town, etc.. Then your fine. Dont spend money when its not needed. Im in the country so I dont worry but I did build my studio from the ground up and I my utilized 4" of dead air space and 6" of insulation then of course drywall inside and regular osb board and siding on outside. And R38 in the ceilings. The studio is 30x30x10. We can crank it up to concert levels and when outside it is very quiet. I was surprised. The dead air and 6 inch insulation does a damn good job. And heating the thing is extremely cheap. But back to your situation. See how loud it is now and work from there. If your not planning on being there a long time, then save as much as possible.
 
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