Soundcard dynamic range...how important?

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bobbo

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Hi folks,
I am trying to figure out how to compare soundcard specifications. What does dynamic range mean when talking about soundcards? I am a new one, looking to purchase 8 in 8 out (it used to be 2 in 8 out, now I want to be a drummer and that could be a funny thing). I wish I could actually hear and use the products first before buying, but can't in my town, lots of doctors but not a lot of music stores. Aark 24 has a nice monitor screen with 100dB dynamic range, and Midiman delta 1010 has a good screen with 108dB range. I really just want to use the 8 inputs with 1/4" connectors, and not the other stuff that they come with since I don't know too much about the other connections like midi, spdodjfdf digital thing, clock sync thing of a jig. But I may someday, who knows.
What does it mean, the dynamic range? Is it about distortion? Why is Aark a 24 bit with only 100dB and the others have more?
Thanks to ya'll.
Signed another confused but well adjusted Bobbo
Also, a PS
Has anyone used an Athlon system with Aardvark or Midiman? I have written both companies, but am just waiting for their replies. Thanks
 
I wouldn't get all mushy about the dynamic range claims of various manufacturers. Kind of like comparing the power ratings on various amplifiers. Also remember:
The claimed dynamic range on these 10 in/ 10 out cards may be dependent on using +4dBu balanced I/O. So if you can't use this format, then you'll lose part of that claimed dynamic range. What's this "monitor screen" you're talking about? Is this the volume control applet that comes with the card?
 
Hi drstawl,
Yes, I meant the volume control screen where you monitor levels, assign ins/outs etc. The aark looks pretty straight forward and well placed. At least to my eyes... I have only used a darla control screen, so I don't have a lot of comparison with others. I also go to about 6 different home recording forum sites each day to see if anyone is having problems with soundcards, and haven't found one problem with an aardvark card, so I like that. I have also noticed that people have good things to says about midiman products, and not so many problems that I have seen with them when it comes to compatibility with computers and software.
I will probably be using +4 settings when I use a card, so how would I know if the manufacturer is trying to maybe use the dynamic range specifications to buy their card (and then have it not really be those specifications because I am using +4 equipment). Does "A weighted" have something to do with this?
I have just heard good things about aardvark and midiman, and their cards have 8 ins and 8 outs of 1/4" connectors, but I guess I am trying to figure out what the specifications really mean so I can choose.
Thanks for your help.
bobbo
By the way drstawl, don't you have a gina? If you do I think its volume control applet is pretty close to darlas which I tried a few weeks ago. What should a person look for in this screen when comparing cards do you think? Thanks
 
Now that I have read your response another time I understand about the +4dBu dependency when it comes to the manufacturers specs on dynamic range. OK, sorry I didn't really read that part before I posted above.
I wonder if I understand dynamic range...lets see...it has to do with how much room you have between real soft noises and real loud noises. Higher the range, the more area you have to play your music in, when you talk about the softer parts and the louder parts? Because +4dBu is louder than
-10dBu, and when you record on a soundcard and have the ability to chose between +4 and -10dBu gear, when using +4dBu gear and telling the soundcard this, the soundcard will make +4dBu into 0dBu. Which can increase the dynamic range because it would be closer and louder than using -10dBu, as the soundcard will make -10dBu actually 0dBu.
I am wondering if I am way off base. But it felt good when I was typing it.
Am I crazy, or am I learning, or do I need a large glass of Tang and a big box of Milk Duds?
 
Yes, you are crazy! :) (just kidding)

but yes, the dynamic range makes a BIG difference to the quality. To understand this, it is useful to know what the decibel scale actually means!!

This scale is logrithmic: 1db + 1db does NOT equal 2db!

A useful ratio to understand this is that 10db(or 1 bel) is double the volume, -10db is half the volume (not talking about -10db and 4db thingy, that's something else as well). It doesn't matter if your talking 10db to 20db, 100db to 110db, or 32.5894db to 42.5894. It is always twice as loud.

0db is considered a level at which sound is barely audiable, it the case of dynamic range, it's the lowest volume your computer can record before it is indistiguishable from the noise. Therefore a system with a DR of 100db can record sounds 1024 times as loud as it's noise floor, where as a 110db system can record about 2048 times as loud as the noise floor (makes a difference, doesn't it? :) )

Now, about the -10db consumer level, and 4db pro level, this is the same scale (and therefore the same ratios apply), but it refers to voltages instead of sound volume: the voltage of the audio signal in a cable, compared to a known voltage (like the quietest sound discussed before). The -10db means that the voltage on the line is half that reference volume, and the pro level is some wierd decimal value more than it (sorry, I don't have a calculator handy). This makes a difference when you consider that noise picked up by the cable is picked up at a certain voltage, independant of the signal that's there. Therefore, if the noise is picked up at -50db, the consumer level is at -10db, the signal is only 16 times louder then the noise (40db: double the signal four times), where as the pro level is about 40-38 times louder than the noise (56db: double it 5 times, then work out the 6db).

Don't worry about not knowing this, an amazing number of pros don't either, they often think of it as 'horsepower.' Hey, I didn't have a clue about it until recently, found a good webpage to explain for me, unfortunately, I lost the URL when I upgraded second hard drive (yes, don't get one in you're new computer, get two, I think I already talked about this! :) )

One more thing, the spdodjfdf digital thing is mainly to hook up to a dat, don't worry about it, the clock sync is what keeps track of the timing of the 48000 samples per second when you have more then one sound card, and the midi is just plain needed to work with keyboards.

Any questions :)

William Underwood

P.S. are you planning on using mics? if so, are you going to buy preamps? you'll need them to use any sort of mic with those sound cards.

P.P.S. a-weighted just refers to one (good) method to generating a balanced audio signal (as opposed to non-balanced, such as guitar patch cords, headphone cables, etc.)
 
Thanks William,
I see that you speak my language.....
"One more thing, the spdodjfdf digital thing"
Good info, I understand parts of it, but will learn more as I go along.
I do have a mixer with 8 XLR preamps and phantom power and the rest and will use them when I can find some room (and ask the two cats as well) for some drums.
Its either Aark 24 or Midiman Delta 1010 I think. I just don't know, just don't know...Thats kind of why I asked about the dynamic range stuff. Just to see what it meant so I can understand the specs a little better. I just wish someone would say, "Bobbo, buy the (insert soundcard here)." I have such a hard time making up my own mind when it comes to the subject of computer home recording because I am just getting started at it. I'm sure they would both be good choices from what I've read on the forums.
Thanks a lot.
Bobbo
 
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