Sound Isolation in an ALL WOODEN SHED.... HELP!!

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Vinny_g

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Hi, I have a 12x20 prefab wood frame shed. It's currently at my folks place, but I plan on moving it to mine for convienience. My parents own an acre, I own half an acre. I also back up to a mobile home park, so my neighborhood is a little "tighter" then where my parents live. I use the shed to practice with my band (I play drums). I'm looking to isolate the sound as much as possible to avoid the obvious.

The shed is constructed with 2x4 framing (walls and ceiling) covered with 1/4" plywood and r-13. The floor is 4x6 covered with 3/4" plywood, no insulation. Currently the entire shed is carpeted from top to bottom. There is a window a/c unit in the wall.

My plans were along the lines of double drywall (5/8" and 1/2"), I was gonna seal the current doorway over with the drywall because the door is thin aluminum and not sealable. I was gonna place a new door on the side wall with an inner door as well. I was also gonna run the electrical wiring on the inside of the room with conduit to avoid extra holes in the drywall. I will caulk all the seams. On the floor I was gonna use R-3.3 insulation sheathing to decouple, then drywall, OSB, and laminate flooring. I was also thinking of building an angled wall to throw off the parallell walls (on one of the 20' lengths).

Now, I have a small understanding of the "flanking path" caused by the wood frame but I can't really afford resilient channels to decouple the walls/ceiling.

I have not measured the level of noise leaving the shed, but I know as of now, it's not terrible. Of course thats on an acre lot with houses spread out further. I'm just looking for less sound escape but I didn't want to do to much if it's pointless because of the "flanking path".

Please remeber, I'm not trying to build a professional studio, just a quiter practice space, with an occassional recording.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated, Thanks.
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The shed is constructed with 2x4 framing (walls and ceiling) covered with 1/4" plywood and r-13. The floor is 4x6 covered with 3/4" plywood, no insulation. Currently the entire shed is carpeted from top to bottom. There is a window a/c unit in the wall.

Vinny,
After you line the place with more more drywall, you will need good ventilation and heating/cooling. I suggest that you build-on a shed that will house a small central type unit and connect it to the shed studio using baffles...

My plans were along the lines of double drywall (5/8" and 1/2"), I was gonna seal the current doorway over with the drywall because the door is thin aluminum and not sealable. I was gonna place a new door on the side wall with an inner door as well. I was also gonna run the electrical wiring on the inside of the room with conduit to avoid extra holes in the drywall. I will caulk all the seams. On the floor I was gonna use R-3.3 insulation sheathing to decouple, then drywall, OSB, and laminate flooring. I was also thinking of building an angled wall to throw off the parallell walls (on one of the 20' lengths).

Don't bother using different thicknesses of drywll - use only 5/8" type 'X' (fire rated) and put 3 layers if you can afford it. That will give you around STC50 (three layers) & should keep the neighbors from calling the cops. ;) Don't bother with foam board insulation on the floor either. Fill the space between the floor joists with insulation and build as you had planned. Sandwiching drywall between osb is a good idea. Also forget the angled wall - you don't have enough room for that and it is easy to construct angled plywood panels to eliminate flutter.

Now, I have a small understanding of the "flanking path" caused by the wood frame but I can't really afford resilient channels to decouple the walls/ceiling.
Don't worry about flanking paths. You are not connected to another structure that the sound will 'flank' to. ;)

I have not measured the level of noise leaving the shed, but I know as of now, it's not terrible. Of course thats on an acre lot with houses spread out further. I'm just looking for less sound escape but I didn't want to do to much if it's pointless because of the "flanking path".
Treat the interior properly and you will have a nice practice room. You will need plenty of trapping once you install the new drywall. Some good articles can be found on my publications page and at the RealTraps site and GIK site.

Cheers,
John
 
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