solder station

[ecc83]

YiHua 45W Soldering Iron Station Welder Rework Repairing Tool 937D: Amazon.co.uk: DIY & Tools

Anyone looking to start soldering or indeed wanting a spare unit, have to give the above 10/10. Ordered yesterday, came tonight and worked bish bosh out of the box. You even get five spare tips of various sizes!

Dave.

 

[miroslav]

Anyone looking to start soldering or indeed wanting a spare unit, have to give the above 10/10. Ordered yesterday, came tonight and worked bish bosh out of the box. You even get five spare tips of various sizes!

Dave.

My only question would be will you be able to get replacement tips 3 years from now for that model?

I kinda like to go with known, long-lasting brands like Weber...or on the higher end, Hakko....because the first thing that goes, is the tip, and even when they give you an assortment of tips to start with, there's usually 1-2 that you use most of the time because of their size/shape...so when they go, you'll want to replace them.
I've got a drawer full of soldering irons...I think I mush have at least 6 if not more...some were no-name irons that worked well until the tip(s) died, and then they don't work so well.

The last couple of irons I bought...I ordered a bunch of spare tips at the same time, so I know I'll have them in case they stop making them, but the better name brands tend to maintain replacements even for older models.

I'll be breaking out my soldering gear very soon, as I start to rewire my racks and snakes (or looms as you limeys call them ) for the new studio.
I love the smell of solder in the morning...smells like victory.

 

[ecc83]

My only question would be will you be able to get replacement tips 3 years from now for that model?

I kinda like to go with known, long-lasting brands like Weber...or on the higher end, Hakko....because the first thing that goes, is the tip, and even when they give you an assortment of tips to start with, there's usually 1-2 that you use most of the time because of their size/shape...so when they go, you'll want to replace them.
I've got a drawer full of soldering irons...I think I mush have at least 6 if not more...some were no-name irons that worked well until the tip(s) died, and then they don't work so well.

The last couple of irons I bought...I ordered a bunch of spare tips at the same time, so I know I'll have them in case they stop making them, but the better name brands tend to maintain replacements even for older models.

I'll be breaking out my soldering gear very soon, as I start to rewire my racks and snakes (or looms as you limeys call them ) for the new studio.
I love the smell of solder in the morning...smells like victory.

Miroslav, mate, (may I call you mate?) There are many things you are I can never be and many things you do I shall never be able to but. If you are effing up solder iron tips you are doing it wrongly mate!

I soldered for a living and for 'fun' for the best part of 50 years and used the same iron, a Weller Magnastat for all that time. Despite doing a score of joints and more a day, every day including Sundays I did not change my tip more than once a year if that. This is the tip care told to me by Weller techs when they came to the factory where I was in charge of around 50 solder stations.

1) Do NOT wipe the tip on a damp sponge, the thermal shock cracks the Iron plating. Instead wipe with brass wool or kitchen paper.
2) Keep the tip tinned at all times. Once up to temp, tin and wipe, tin again and solder. Wipe and tin regularly throughout the work.
3)Never attack the tip with a file or emery paper, again you will break through the plating. Instead keep up a regime of wipe-tin-wipe to clean oxide off the tip. In extremis you can buy a tip cleaning paste but use very sparingly it is very aggressive.
4)Do not leave the Iron 'cooking'. Prepare the work 'cold'. Modern temperature controlled irons are up to temp in 30 seconds.
5)When done, wipe the tip then flood with fresh solder and allow to cool.

Apologies if you know/do all that but if so I cannot understand WTF you are doing to those solder tips!

Dave.

 

[Chili]

1) Do NOT wipe the tip on a damp sponge, the thermal shock cracks the Iron plating. Instead wipe with brass wool or kitchen paper.
2) Keep the tip tinned at all times. Once up to temp, tin and wipe, tin again and solder. Wipe and tin regularly throughout the work.
3)Never attack the tip with a file or emery paper, again you will break through the plating. Instead keep up a regime of wipe-tin-wipe to clean oxide off the tip. In extremis you can buy a tip cleaning paste but use very sparingly it is very aggressive.
4)Do not leave the Iron 'cooking'. Prepare the work 'cold'. Modern temperature controlled irons are up to temp in 30 seconds.
5)When done, wipe the tip then flood with fresh solder and allow to cool.

Well, I pretty much failed on every point. But I'm still on the same tip.

I do try to keep it tinned all the time, but probably not adequate enough. I do file and sand. I do let it cook. I do use a damp sponge or, in my case a paper towel. But I still get my work done.
Oh well.

 

[miroslav]

Miroslav, mate, (may I call you mate?) There are many things you are I can never be and many things you do I shall never be able to but. If you are effing up solder iron tips you are doing it wrongly mate!

I soldered for a living and for 'fun' for the best part of 50 years and used the same iron, a Weller Magnastat for all that time. Despite doing a score of joints and more a day, every day including Sundays I did not change my tip more than once a year if that. This is the tip care told to me by Weller techs when they came to the factory where I was in charge of around 50 solder stations.

1) Do NOT wipe the tip on a damp sponge, the thermal shock cracks the Iron plating. Instead wipe with brass wool or kitchen paper.
2) Keep the tip tinned at all times. Once up to temp, tin and wipe, tin again and solder. Wipe and tin regularly throughout the work.
3)Never attack the tip with a file or emery paper, again you will break through the plating. Instead keep up a regime of wipe-tin-wipe to clean oxide off the tip. In extremis you can buy a tip cleaning paste but use very sparingly it is very aggressive.
4)Do not leave the Iron 'cooking'. Prepare the work 'cold'. Modern temperature controlled irons are up to temp in 30 seconds.
5)When done, wipe the tip then flood with fresh solder and allow to cool.

Apologies if you know/do all that but if so I cannot understand WTF you are doing to those solder tips!

Dave.

You assumed a lot!

My point was that buying no-name cheaper irons...the tips will not last...so you want to make sure you either buy replacements up front, or that it's a company that will have them 5-10 years down the road. I find that a lot of no-name metal products out of China, tend to use very low-grade metals. Too soft or too brittle. The stuff they make for name companies, has more stringent QC.

Oh...and I meant to say Weller...not sure why I wrote Weber. I've got at least 3 Weller irons, different sizes and wattage.
Also...I'm talking about tips that get a LOT of use...at some point, they can wear down, especially the very thin/pointed tips needed for smaller jobs, on PCBs and delicate stuff. The heavier ones don't have as much wear issues.

I'm sure you've soldered more in your lifetime...but trust me, I've soldered a lot. Miles and miles and miles of cables...many patchbays ...de-soldered and recapped entire consoles...so I know how to use an iron, and why I have a bunch of them, different styles, sizes, wattages, some from 30-40 years ago, that still work.
My point had to do with a couple of no-name irons I bought that were inexpensive, and looked/worked great initially...but after enough use, the tips were getting worn too fast. When I tired to find replacements...those brands/models were no longer in existence.

So I'm just saying buy the good stuff, and nothing wrong with having some spare tips on hand...because it sucks if you need to replace one during a job...and you don't have any or can't even find the parts.

For anyone doing more delicate PCB kind of stuff...especially something like a console recap....I strongly recommend a dedicated de-soldering iron, the kind that has the built-in suction with the heated tip. They are a bit more expensive than even some better soldering stations...but worth every penny in time saved and the easy and safe way they will remove the solder on delicate boards. I got one of the Hakko de-soldering irons when I did my console...and at first I thought it was a lot of money for what might be this one major job...but 5 minutes into the work, I was all smiles, and so glad I got it.
I initially thought I would use it and then sell it...but after working with it, I decided to keep it.

 

[Gtoboy]

My only question would be will you be able to get replacement tips 3 years from now for that model?

I kinda like to go with known, long-lasting brands like Weber...or on the higher end, Hakko....because the first thing that goes, is the tip, and even when they give you an assortment of tips to start with, there's usually 1-2 that you use most of the time because of their size/shape...so when they go, you'll want to replace them.
I've got a drawer full of soldering irons...I think I mush have at least 6 if not more...some were no-name irons that worked well until the tip(s) died, and then they don't work so well.

The last couple of irons I bought...I ordered a bunch of spare tips at the same time, so I know I'll have them in case they stop making them, but the better name brands tend to maintain replacements even for older models.

I'll be breaking out my soldering gear very soon, as I start to rewire my racks and snakes (or looms as you limeys call them ) for the new studio.
I love the smell of solder in the morning...smells like victory.

Dont worry Miro, it's a well regarded manufacturer with a good history. It's just one that has come to market in the west with the interweb.

I have this one:YIHUA 862BD+ SMD ESD Safe 2 in 1 Soldering Iron Hot Air Rework Station °F /°C with Multiple Functions

Great value. Take a look at what's available on Amazon from them:Amazon.com : YIHUA

 

[miroslav]

Dont worry Miro, it's a well regarded manufacturer with a good history. It's just one that has come to market in the west with the interweb.

I have this one:YIHUA 862BD+ SMD ESD Safe 2 in 1 Soldering Iron Hot Air Rework Station °F /°C with Multiple Functions

Great value. Take a look at what's available on Amazon from them:Amazon.com : YIHUA

I'm sure Dave wouldn't buy a crappy soldering station...and you're right, I've not heard of the brand before, but I guess it's making its way westward.

I've always opted for the single irons, different wattages and sizes, instead of the stations...only because most times I've got to get in behind the racks or sometimes crawling under things...etc...rather than working at a bench, but I've used the stations too when I was doing some tech stuff as part of TV production work, and there was a full-tilt repair department, so the techs would allow me to work on their benches and use their tools because they knew I was handy with that stuff, unlike most of the TV production crew.

When I get ready for my new studio rewiring...I may consider a soldering station, it just depends where I can set up...but I do have a nice sturdy table that's small enough to move, but heavy/large enough to work on...though TBH, I don't need an involved, multi-function station...a simple one-trick pony iron selected for the task works fine for me.

 

[ecc83]

I'm sure Dave wouldn't buy a crappy soldering station...and you're right, I've not heard of the brand before, but I guess it's making its way westward.

I've always opted for the single irons, different wattages and sizes, instead of the stations...only because most times I've got to get in behind the racks or sometimes crawling under things...etc...rather than working at a bench, but I've used the stations too when I was doing some tech stuff as part of TV production work, and there was a full-tilt repair department, so the techs would allow me to work on their benches and use their tools because they knew I was handy with that stuff, unlike most of the TV production crew.

When I get ready for my new studio rewiring...I may consider a soldering station, it just depends where I can set up...but I do have a nice sturdy table that's small enough to move, but heavy/large enough to work on...though TBH, I don't need an involved, multi-function station...a simple one-trick pony iron selected for the task works fine for me.

My apologies if I assumed to much! Ok, I sort of missed your point about 'cheap' solder irons* but my Maplin jobby WAS cheap compared to the Wellers and yet, 6 years on the tip is still fine. Just the whole bloody thing has packed up!

My post about that station was aimed at the 'ten joints a year newb'. Forums such as this get a question about soldering kit a few times a year and up until now I have had to suggest the DurTool station at around £50 here. The one I now have was around £30.

Another point about usage: some people insist on using a tip as a lever or 'dig' into say a switch tag to unwind wires. Eventually the tip bends and then cracks. In the factory there was a ratio of about 3:1 of lady solderers to males. The heavy handed blokes got through way more tips and pencils than the gals!

* I am here talking only about solder STATIONS. Yes, I have bought $10 irons from a car accessories shop and it bid not last the weekend!

Dave.

 

[RFR]

Reading the whole thread left me with this simplified condensed version.
Don’t buy junk.....and take care of your stuff

 

[TAE]

Best soldering 101 ever!

1) Do NOT wipe the tip on a damp sponge, the thermal shock cracks the Iron plating. Instead wipe with brass wool or kitchen paper.
2) Keep the tip tinned at all times. Once up to temp, tin and wipe, tin again and solder. Wipe and tin regularly throughout the work.
3)Never attack the tip with a file or emery paper, again you will break through the plating. Instead keep up a regime of wipe-tin-wipe to clean oxide off the tip. In extremis you can buy a tip cleaning paste but use very sparingly it is very aggressive.
4)Do not leave the Iron 'cooking'. Prepare the work 'cold'. Modern temperature controlled irons are up to temp in 30 seconds.
5)When done, wipe the tip then flood with fresh solder and allow to cool.

.

Dave! That was very cool of you to share....Like Chili I was clueless but I have gotten by with a single tip on an old Weller TC 202 for years albeit I probably use it for about 10 hours max a year.... of course it came with sponges but for some reason I bought one of those copper scrub thingys a few years back not knowing it was a good move...tinning at the end of working...didn't know...turning it off...oh hell no..I always left it running sometimes over night...oops! anyways...probably time to get something with adjustable temp though this still works...maybe I'll check out that Yeehaw stuff! Thanks for sharing the "tips"

 

[ecc83]

Dave! That was very cool of you to share....Like Chili I was clueless but I have gotten by with a single tip on an old Weller TC 202 for years albeit I probably use it for about 10 hours max a year.... of course it came with sponges but for some reason I bought one of those copper scrub thingys a few years back not knowing it was a good move...tinning at the end of working...didn't know...turning it off...oh hell no..I always left it running sometimes over night...oops! anyways...probably time to get something with adjustable temp though this still works...maybe I'll check out that Yeehaw stuff! Thanks for sharing the "tips"

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Nay a problem laddie! You don't need a new solder station T, just some new tips. ASSUMING you can get the barrel off the iron (do it cold and if you MUST use pliers on the fixing ring be careful!), you can get tips of different styles and temperatures*. The irons are normally supplied with a #7 'chisel' tip, about 2mm across end. This is, as you have found, fine for almost all general work on old 'P2P' chassis and cables and 'thru hole' PCBs and Lead/Tin solder. For PCB work on Pbfree gear a #8 is needed. For chunky Pb free work, big ass switches say, a #9 with a buff, 5mm tip is fast but beware! A #9 tip will ignite paper!

Lastly, if fine PCB work is envisaged go for a #8 'needle point' but these are not as strong as the thicker tips although you should get a good year out of one with care.

If you CAN'T get the barrel off, don't struggle, you will wreck the iron. Keep it as backup and go for my suggested station.

*In case peeps don't know. The Weller works on the 'Curie Point' principle. A magnetic switch in the barrel is operated by a special alloy at the base of the tip. At a certain temperature the alloy loses it magnetic property and the switch drops out, tip cools a bit, power flows once again. 'KING clever or what!

The switch can fail and can be replaced but you will loose hair and fill the swear box up trying! I got it down to about an hour's cursing after about my fifth switch swap. N.B. I was looking after over 50 stations and they were each doing 1000s of joints per 8 hr shift and many were heavily abused. Could NOT get most of the fekkers to switch them off!

Dave.

 

[Steenamaroo]

Great advice and info. Thanks for sharing Dave!

 

[skywaveTDR]

I have used Weller irons for the better part of 47 years and I have used wet sponge cleaning method for many years with the tips lasting more than a couple to few years- I stock a lot of them and different sizes but that item from China will not be supported for very long and they do not care about the customer but it is already not available. I buy well known name brand products and even have spare stations on hand. The Weller products have worked for me for many years and I work 8-14 hour days not always soldering. I do not leave them on all day like some shops do. The cause of tip failure has to do with lack of proper maintenance as in letting it corrode up and doing things that the tip was not designed to do like pry up metal parts. In all my years using a wet sponge I have never had a tip crack or break from using that. It helps get bad solder off and solidified so the sponge can be cleaned off at a later time. Sponge use is also a learned method- some guys gouge the tip into the sponge when they are suppose to use the surface of the sponge. When you use a product wrong it does not serve you very well in the long run. I get years out of my tips and on my Edsyn DS0017 I have never had to change a tip yet.

 

[ecc83]

I have used Weller irons for the better part of 47 years and I have used wet sponge cleaning method for many years with the tips lasting more than a couple to few years- I stock a lot of them and different sizes but that item from China will not be supported for very long and they do not care about the customer but it is already not available. I buy well known name brand products and even have spare stations on hand. The Weller products have worked for me for many years and I work 8-14 hour days not always soldering. I do not leave them on all day like some shops do. The cause of tip failure has to do with lack of proper maintenance as in letting it corrode up and doing things that the tip was not designed to do like pry up metal parts. In all my years using a wet sponge I have never had a tip crack or break from using that. It helps get bad solder off and solidified so the sponge can be cleaned off at a later time. Sponge use is also a learned method- some guys gouge the tip into the sponge when they are suppose to use the surface of the sponge. When you use a product wrong it does not serve you very well in the long run. I get years out of my tips and on my Edsyn DS0017 I have never had to change a tip yet.

Yup,I agree with most of that Sky except the damp sponge. I told not to use them by Weller technical chaps no less when they came to the factory to assist the changeover to Lead free solder. They told me the water causes thermal shock and can crack the iron plating. This is admittedly a more serious problem at Pbfree temperatures. I had been a R&TV service tech for 30yrs before and used a 48W Weller Magnastat every day WITH a damp sponge and rarely buggered a tip but that was with old 60/40.

There is difference I think between guys like us who know the drill and care for the kit. The (mostly) girls at the factory basically didn't and were soldering millions of joints a year. I suggest newbs avoid wet cleaning. Kitchen paper works very well indeed.

I had a brief time at "J Beam Antennas" soldering PTFE coax and other RF kit. No water there matey! Brass wool.

Dave.