RSIC-1 spacing, window treatment

[WagTheDog]

A couple of questions before I start sheetrocking......

I have a large window in the north studio wall. I have framed a wall about 8" out from the window and will have 2 layers of 5/8" sheetrock on RSIC-1/HC.....assuming that the window constitutes the outer leaf, I guess it would be a no-no to cover it up with plywood since that would be adding the dreaded third leaf? Should I just spray it black and leave it as-is? I will have R30 insulation between it and the inner leaf.

On some of the sites selling RSIC-1 clips, they give their recommendations for spacing....most all of them recommend a 4' HORIZONTAL span between clips and show a 2' span vertically. Why is this necessary (the vertical spacing)? Since these sites are trying to sell, I wanted to get some input from any of you who may have installed RSIC clips to see how you spaced them.

Thanks alot!

P.S. My studs are 24" OC on west/east walls, 16" OC on north/south.

 

[Innovations]

Here are the general considerations.

First what is your area of unsupported drywall. In normal two feet on center studs you have an unsupported distance of two feet of drywall. If you push that too far you will have a 'mushy' feeling wall if you lean on it and a potential for cracking. That is why they have the vertical distance set at two feet, because it is serving the purpose of the two foot studs except horizontally instead of vertically.

Often overlooked is the screw spacing. You don't want one screw having to hold up too much drywall.

Next the hat channel itself is basicly forming a beam between the clips. You don't want that beam to have to span too far or it will sag and deflect. How much weight the beam is carrying depends on both the horizontal and vertical spacing of the clips.

The final consideration is the neoprene in the clip. If it is already max compressed it no longer serves as an effective isolator.


As to the window problem it is absurdly easy. Tack up some nice open weave fabric. Even throw in some folds so it looks from the outside like the curtains are closed. Or some cheapo blinds.

 

[WagTheDog]

Thanks for the reply....I figured that the window treatment would NOT involve any hard surface behind it (thus creating the third leaf), but I wanted to double-check that the window is considered a leaf.....guess it would be.

Not sure exactly what you are asking about "unsupported drywall"....the room is kinda like a "pup tent" with a squared off top....the east and west walls are 24" OC...the west wall (which actually is the roofline at a 45 degree angle...the outer leaf is the sheathing/shingles with a 2X6 stud) is about 16' from floor to apex....the room going north/south is about 15'. The east wall is the same as west wall until about 45" from the floor where it turns into a "knee-wall" (straight up), so the total distance for the east wall would be around 15'. The north and south walls are 16" OC.....about 8.5' at the tops to about 15' at the floor level. The ceiling is about 3.5' wide and Here is a sideview looking North:
Side View

Here's another:
Top View

Hope that helps, and thanks for your help

 

[Innovations]

Thanks for the reply....I figured that the window treatment would NOT involve any hard surface behind it (thus creating the third leaf), but I wanted to double-check that the window is considered a leaf.....guess it would be.

Not sure exactly what you are asking about "unsupported drywall"....the room is kinda like a "pup tent" with a squared off top....the east and west walls are 24" OC...the west wall (which actually is the roofline at a 45 degree angle...the outer leaf is the sheathing/shingles with a 2X6 stud) is about 16' from floor to apex....the room going north/south is about 15'. The east wall is the same as west wall until about 45" from the floor where it turns into a "knee-wall" (straight up), so the total distance for the east wall would be around 15'. The north and south walls are 16" OC.....about 8.5' at the tops to about 15' at the floor level. The ceiling is about 3.5' wide and Here is a sideview looking North:
Side View

Here's another:
Top View

Hope that helps, and thanks for your help

I may have gotten a bit wordy but you asked why the two foot vertical spacing. The reason is the maximum unsupported distance in drywall.

Even in an non-structural wall you need studs at least every two feet apart because otherwise your drywall would wobble when pressed against and crack. Now when you go with channel you aren't directly supporting the drywall by the studs. You are supporting it by the channel. Tha is why the recomendation is a foot or less from the bottom or top and two feet between, because the channel is now serving to support the drywall like the studs would in a normal wall. Does that make sense now?